18.Hachigata Castle Part1

Hachigata Castle was located in modern day Yorii Town in the northern part of Saitama Prefecture. The castle was prominent both when the Sengoku Period of the Kanto Region started and ended.

Location and History

Hachigata Castle was located in modern day Yorii Town in the northern part of Saitama Prefecture. The castle was prominent both when the Sengoku Period of the Kanto Region started and ended.

Beginning of Sengoku Period in Kanto Region

The location of the castle

The region ran into the unquiet Sengoku Period in 1455 when the Kyotoku War began. The Ashikaga Clan, the shogunate head for the Kanto Region and the Uesugi Clan, the shogunate deputy for the region opposed and confronted each other at the Tone River, the largest river in the region. The Uesugi Clan constructed Ikkako Encampment at the western riverside and used it for over 20 years. The clan actually consisted of two branch clans, the Yamanouchi and the Ogigayatsu Clans. Each branch clan also had a main retainer to control many warriors and matters from the Nagao Clan for the Yamanouchi and the Ota Clan for the Ogigayatsu. One of the main retainers, Kagenobu Nagao died in 1473 before his position was assigned by his boss, Akisada Yamanouchi to his little brother, Tadakage.

Around the ruins of Ikakko Encampment
The yellow area was influenced by the Uesugi Clan and the purple area was influenced by the Ashikaga Clan at that time, from the signboard at the site

Kageharu Nagao builds Castle

This was a reasonable decision, because Tadakage was considered as a senior and experienced person. However, Kagenobu’s son, Kageharu thought otherwise, as the position was inherited by his grandfather and father. Kageharu left the encampment, built Hachigata Castle in 1475, and started a rebellion in 1476. The castle was built on a high cliff at the meeting point of Arakawa River, another large river in the region, and Fukasawagawa River, a peninsula affording natural defense. Though the details of the first stage of the castle are unknown, it would have been easy for Kageharu to attack the Ikkako Encampment which had no guard on its southern side (which faced the castle). Many other retainers, who worried about their own positions in the new power hierarchy, supported Kageharu. The encampment finally collapsed in 1477.

The family crest of the Nagao Clan, called Kuyou-Tomoe (meaning the nine comma-shaped figures)

The relief map around the castle

The Arakawa River and the cliffs behind, where the castle was built
The Fukasawagawa River

What Kageharu really wanted was unclear, but he tried to get many territories with his supporters and the Ashikaga Clan with whom Kageharu took sides. Kageharu was an excellent general. However, the other main retainer for the Ogigayatsu, Dokan Ota was superior to him. Dokan, who is known for building Edo Castle, which would become the center of the government during the Edo Period , and is now the Imperial Palace, was also a great strategist and politician. Dokan captured the Kageharu supporters’ castles, such as Kozukue Castle, one by one. He also made brokered a fragile peace with the Ashikaga Clan, which drove Kageharu back to his home base, Hachigata Castle. Dokan finally attacked and captured the castle in 1478, so Kageharu was forced to flee. Dokan became the greatest lord in the Kanto Region, however, he was killed in 1485 by his master, Sadamasa Ogigayatsu who feared his power. The region became unstable again and Kageharu continued to fight against his masters, the Yamanouchi, throughout his life as a soldier of fortune. He finally settled down under Sozui Ise, the founder of the Hojo Clan, until his death in 1514.

The portrait of Dokan Ota, owned by Daijiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Edo Castle (the current Imperial Palace)
The ruins of Kozukue Castle
The replica of the portrait of Soun Hojo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle becomes Hojo’s Branch

Hachigata Castle was occupied by the Yamanouchi for a while, but eventually abandoned. The power of the Uesugi Clans (Yamanouchi and Ogigayatsu) decreased while the Hojo Clan invaded the Kanto Region during the 16th Century. The Hojo Clan was based in Odawara Castle in Sagami Province (now Kanagawa Pref.) and they set several important branch castles where the Hojo’s relatives were sent to govern the region’s stability. Hachigata Castle was chosen as one of the castles as its location was at the northern edge of their territory. Ujikuni Hojo became the lord of the castle in 1568 and struggled to keep. For example, when the Hojo Clan allied with Kenshin Uesugi who was the successor of the Yamanouchi and one of the strongest warlords, Ujikuni was charged with negotiating with him. However, once the alliance was broken, Kenshin attacked Hachigata Castle, set fire to its castle town, and withdrew.

The family crest of the Hojo Clan, called Hojo-Uroko (meaning the squames of the Hojo)
Odawara Castle
The portrait of Kenshin Uesugi, owned by the Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ujikuni Hojo, Last Lord of Castle

To survive under these severe conditions, Ujikuni greatly improved the castle. The castle’s defenses were naturally strong, having been built on a tall cliff, sandwiched by the two rivers to the north, the east, and the west. It also had many enclosures made of soil, mainly including the Main, Second and Third Enclosures in a line from north to south. Therefore, enemies would have to attack the Third Enclosure first from the south. To prevent attack, these enclosures were divided by deep dry moats and surrounded by high, thick earthen walls. Part of the walls were supported by stone mounds looking like stone walls. The entrances of the enclosures were protected by a set of gates and the Umadashi system. The Umadashi system refers to a connected smaller enclosure in front of the gate, connected by a narrow path to the larger enclosures. The position could be used to both protect the enclosure and attack from it.

The diorama of the castle at the site, viewed from the north
The restored stone mounds
The restored Umadashi system

The history of the castle suddenly ended in 1590 when the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi invaded the Kanto Region as the Hojo’s territory to complete his unification of Japan. He went there with over 200,000 soldiers and about 35,000 of which, attacked Hachigata Castle in May, led by Toshiie Maeda. Ujikuni, along with about 3,000 defenders, was besieged for a month. The attackers didn’t assaulted the castle, directly, instead, it is said that they fired large guns from Kuruma-yama Mountain, about 1 km away from the Main Gate of the castle to the south. Ujiie finally surrendered and opened the castle in June, perhaps because there was no hope for reinforcements, or due to the damage from the guns. The castle passed to the Tokugawa Clan, who now ran the region instead of the Hojo Clan, however, it was eventually abandoned at the end of the Sengoku Period.

The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Kuruma-yama Mountain seen from the Outer Enclosure
The ruins of Hachigata Castle

To be continued in “Hachigata Castle Part2”

125.Kozukue Castle Part3

The ruins have become popular since the construction of the road.

Features

Parted Barbican

In fact, the ruins were partly destroyed and divided by the Daisan-Keihin Road. You can look at one of the barbicans over the road from the entrance of the Western Enclosure. You will have to go through the tunnel under the road to get there. The top of it is one of Fujizuka Mounds, called Fuji-sengen, made for worshiping Mt. Fuji since the Edo Period. It might had been a turret base before that. When you walk out of the ruins, you will get back to the city area right away.

The map around the castle

The Daisan-Keihin Road parting the ruins
Climbing the stairways after the tunnel
The Fujizuka Mounds on the barbican
you will soon get back to the city area

Later History

After Kozukue Castle was abandoned, the local people have called the ruins Shiroyama or the Castle Mountain. The studies about the castle started as early as in the Edo Period. However, the ruins ironically became popular as a historic site since they were partly destroyed by the construction of the Daisan-keihin Road in 1963. Through that, Yokohama City launched the Kozukue Castle Ruins Forest to preserve them in 1977. People are now interested in what the castle was like in the past.

The ruins of Kozukue Castle and Daisan-Keihin Road

My Impression

I think Kozukue Castle is a good example of how to protect a castle with few defenders. I guess if a battle happened at Kozukue Castle when Hideyoshi invaded, this castle could survive at least over one night unlike Yamanaka Castle and Hachioji Castle.

The large dry moat in front of the Western Enclosure

How to get There

I recommend using a train when you visit the ruins because the park has no parking lot.
It takes about 15 minutes on foot from JR Kozukue Station on the Yokohama Line.

Kozukue Station
The castle ruins seen from the platform of Kozukue Station

The Yokohama-Kamiasao Road (Kanagawa Prefectural Road 12) goes near the station, so turn right at the Kozukue Station Intersection and go along the street. Then, turn right at the Kozukuetsuji Intersection.

Turn right at the Kozukuetsuji Intersection

Go along the street again, cross the railway and turn left at the first intersection.

Cross the railway
Turn left right away

Go along the street in the residential area, and when you find the signpost for the ruins on the utility pole on the right, turn right. You will eventually arrive at the entrance of the ruins.

Turn right when you find the signpost on the utility pole (inside the red circle)
The entrance of the ruins

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Kozukue Castle Part1”
Back to “Kozukue Castle Part2”

125.Kozukue Castle Part2

Another world in Yokohama City

Features

Ruins planted with Bamboo Forest

Today, the ruins of Kozukue Castle are preserved by Yokohama City as a park called the Kozukue Castle Ruins Forest. Yokohama City has the largest population among the cities in Japan except for Tokyo Special Ward, with about 3.8 million citizens. Even the hilly area around the ruins is covered with lots of modern facilities, office buildings and residences. However, once you walk into the ruins, you may feel like you are in another world. The hill for the ruins is basically planted with a beautiful and well-maintained bamboo forest. The foundation of the castle also remains under the forest.

The bamboo forest on the ruins
The location map at the site

The map around the castle

You can climb up on the well-developed trail from the foot of the hill called Nekoya.

The foot of the hill
Climbing on the trail

Large-scale Dry Moat

You will soon reach the top of the outer earthen walls and see the large-scale dry moat in front of the enclosures. This dry moat is still about 13m in width and about 12m in depth. It must have been much deeper in the past. When the excavation team recently dug the bottom of another dry moat in the castle at over 2m, they still could not find its original bottom.

The large dry moat
Looking at the bottom of the moat

The trail goes on the outer earthen walls at the same level as the top of the moat, but you can also go down to the bottom from some points where the slope of the moat is gentle. If you stand at the bottom looking up, you might find another perspective of the castle.

The trail going on the outer earthen walls
One of the points where you can go down to the bottom of the moat
The bottom of the dry moat

Eastern Enclosure under Excavation

If you walk around the outer earthen walls to the right, you will reach the Eastern Enclosure which is also called the Second Enclosure at the site. The excavation is also ongoing at the center of the enclosure, where some buildings were built in the past.

The center of the Eastern Enclosure
The excavation site

You can also climb up to the high turret earthen base at the edge of the enclosure, where you can look down the dry moat around it from the top.

Climbing up to the turret base
A view of the dry moat around the enclosure from the base

The trail around the enclosure goes to the bottom of the moat. You will find the beautiful bamboo forest around the enclosure again when you walk on the trail.

The trail on the bottom of the moat
The wonderful bamboo forest

Western Enclosure used as Sports Square

If you walk around the outer earthen walls to the left or walk over the Connecting Enclosure from the Eastern Enclosure, you will reach the Western Enclosure which is also called the Main Enclosure at the site. The inside of it is a flat square, so it is used for sports like baseball now. An altered gate called Kabuki-mon was built at the entrance of it to look like the Main Enclosure. However, in fact, historians have been arguing for over 150 years if this enclosure was really the main one. Some of them think the Eastern Enclosure was main. The excavation may find the correct answer in the future.

You can go there by turning left at the first intersection
Or walking over the Connecting Enclosure from the Second Enclosure
The Western Enclosure
The altered gate

To be continued in “Kozukue Castle Part3”
Back to “Kozukue Castle Part1”