78.Marugame Castle Part1

A castle covered with great stone walls with advanced technology

Location and History

It starts as Branch of Takamatsu Castle

Marugame Castle was located on a mountain called Kame-yama which means tortoise mountain in the western part of the Sanuki Plain of Sanuki Province (what is now Kagawa Prefecture). The part of the plain has several mountains that stood out like a projection, for example, Ino-yama Mountain is known for its beautiful appearance as Sanuki-Fuji. Kame-yama Mountain is one of the mountains and much lower than the Sanuki- Fuji ( 66m vs 422m), but was more convenient for the warriors to build a castle on it.

The location of the castle

The relief map around the castle

The Sanuki- Fuji

It is said that the Nara Clan first built a fortress on Kame-yama Mountan, but a castle named Marugame Castle was built on the mountain by the Ikoma Clan in 1597. The Ikoma Clan governed Sanuki Province under the Toyotomi Clan and the Tokugawa Shogunate later between 1587 and 1640. Marugame Castle was a branch castle of Takamatsu Castle which was the home base of the Ikoma Clan. However, Marugame Castle was once abandoned in 1615 in accordance with the Law of One Castle per Province by the Tokugawa Shogunate. The castle had unfortunately been destroyed as we found the wreckage of the old stone walls when the excavation was done.

The portrait of Chikamasa Ikoma, the founder of the clan, owned by Kokenji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Takamatsu Castle

Rebuilt by Yamazaki Clan and Kyogoku Clan

After the Ikoma Clan was transferred to another due to their internal trouble in 1641, the Yamazaki Clan was given the western part of Sanuki Province by the Tokugawa Shogunate. The Yamazaki Clan was allowed to rebuild Marugame Castle for their new home base. They built the high stone walls with three tiers covering all around Kame-yama Mountain. The stone walls were also built with advanced technology and very valuable because building a new castle was basically not allowed at that time. The re-construction continued for 30 years. The Yamazaki Clan was unfortunately fired by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1657 during the construction because they had no successor. The Kyogoku Clan following the Yamazaki Clan completed the construction building the Main Tower by 1663.

The Main Tower and high stone walls of Marugame Castle
The portrait of Takakazu Kyogoku, who was transferred to Marugame Castle, owned by Marugame Municipal Archives Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

It looks like Stone Fortress

The final appearance of Marugame Castle was as the following. The Main Enclosure, the Second Enclosure and the Third Enclosure were on the mountain. All the enclosures were surrounded by the stone walls making the very high ones stick together. The Main Enclosure, which was at highest, had the Main Tower and the four Corner Turrets connected with the roofed passages called Tamon or the mud walls. The Second and Third Enclosures were below the Main Enclosure and they also had several turrets. The Inner Moat surrounded the mountain, the Main Gate was just inside the moat in the north, and the Back Gate was in the south. In addition, warriors’ houses were built outside the Inner Moat and were also surrounded by the Outer Moat.

The miniature model of Marugame Castle, exhibited by Marugame Castle Main Tower
The Main Gate and Inner Moat of Marugame Castle
Part of the illustration of Marugame Castle in Sanuki Province, in the Edo Period, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

The Kyogoku Clan governed Marugame Castle and the Marugame Domain until the end of the Edo Period. In fact, the lord of the castle lived in the Main Hall at the foot of the mountain. That was a common way for the lords of the castles in peaceful time. Anyway, Marugame Castle must have looked like a stone fortress.

The ruins of the Main Hall at the foot of the mountain (taken by あけび from photoAC)

To be continued in “Marugame Castle Part2”

33.Takaoka Castle Part2

It is a natural park now.

Features

Five remaining Enclosures as Park

Today, the ruins of Takaoka Castle has become the Takaoka Old Castle Park which is open to the public. The park looks like part of the water moats rather than being surrounded of them. This is because almost all of the foundation and the water moats for the castle remained until now. In fact, the water moats occupy about one thirds of the park. It is really a natural park now as you can try going on a boat tour on the moat.

The remaining water moat at the castle ruins
A banner for the boat tour

There are five enclosures such as the Main Enclosure among the moats. Each enclosure is independent and they are connected each other by only earthen walls or bridges. In particular, the Main Enclosure was accessible only through other enclosures, can not be accessible directly from the outside in the past.

The miniature model of the five enclosures, exhibited by the Takaoka City Museum

The aerial photo around the castle

Main Enclosure like Hill

The Main Enclosure is the largest one and like a hill, so you have to climb up to the center of it. The enclosure has the Imizu Shrine and a square with the statue of Toshinaga Maeda standing beside it.

The slope to the Main Enclosure
The Imizu Shrine
The square of the Main Enclosure
The statue of Toshinaga Maeda

It was found through the excavation that the Main Hall for Toshinaga was built in the enclosure. It is uncertain about other buildings in the castle because the castle was abandoned before their completion. Only the stone walls remained at the one side of the enclosure, which may be the only castle-looking item.

The ruins of the Main Hall of the Main Enclosure by the excavation, exhibited by the Takaoka City Museum
The remaining stone walls at the Main Enclosure

Other Enclosures for Modern facilities

Other enclosures are also used for modern facilities, the Second Enclosure for the Civic Hall, the Kaji-maru Enclosure for the City Museum, the Aki-maru Enclosure for a zoo, and the Minbu-maru Enclosure for a zym.

The Civic Hall at the Second Enclosure
The City Museum at the Kaji-maru Enclosure

The whole park is also very known for cherry blossoms that surrounds it, they bloom around spring. The citizens in Takaoka City are very familiar with this park and recognize Toshinaga as the founder of the city.

The cherry blossoms in the Takaoka Old Castle Park

To be continued in “Takaoka Castle Part3”
Back to “Takaoka Castle Part1”

34.Nanao Castle Part2

The main portion of the castle is still outstanding.

Features

From Parking lot to Main portion of Castle

Today, you can access the main portion of the ruins of Nanao Castle directly by car. The ruins, however, don’t have castle buildings now, but their foundation remains intact. There is a parking lot on one of the enclosures under the Cho Residence. You can walk on the well developed trail to the Main Enclosure from the parking lot.

The map around the castle

The Parking lot
The trail to the Main Enclosure

You can also see the large deep ditch called Horikiri between the Main Enclosure and the Cho Residence followed by the vertically cut cliff called Kirigishi of the Main Enclosure along the trail. They are, however, artificial.

The large deep ditch between the Main Enclosure and the Cho Residence
The vertically cut cliff under the Main Enclosure

You will first reach the Chodo-maru which was the place where weapons were prepared under the Sakura Riding Ground. The original Main Route also reached the Chodo-maru in the past.

The Chodo-maru
The Main Route to Chodo-maru
The imaginary drawing of Chodo-maru (from the signboard at the site)

Wonderful stone walls

Next, you will see the large five-tier stone walls piled up naturally called Nozura-zumi when you walk up to the Sakura Riding Ground. The stone walls look beautiful because of the moss that covers it. They were built by Toshiie Maeda and are one of the highlights of the castle.

Climbing to the Sakura Riding Ground
The five-tier stone walls Toshiie Maeda built
The stone walls covered with the moss

From the front of the Sakura Riding Ground, you can go straight to the Main Enclosure through the Yusa Residence. However, this route was not original. It was said to have been built when the Shiroyama Shrine was established on the enclosure about 80 years ago. Thanks to that, you can also see the great three-tier stone walls of the enclosure which is close by.

The entrance of the Sakura Riding Ground
The Yusa Residence
The route direct to the Main Enclosure
The three-tier stone walls of the Main Enclosure

Main Enclosure was well protected

The enclosure was protected well by the stone walls and the vertically cut cliff in the past. The original route zigzagged and went around the back of the enclosure, guarded by the other square space called Soto-Masugata which was put on the outside of the enclosure.

The stone walls and vertically cut cliff protecting the Main Enclosure
The square space outside the original entrance of the Main Enclosure

The inside of the Main Enclosure is basically empty and the monument of the castle remains standing. The shrine is on the ruins of the Main Tower. The tower is thought to have a cypress bark roof or shingled roof, because no roof tiles were ever found during the excavation. The view from the enclosure is amazing. If the weather is nice, you will be able to see the whole view of Nanao City along the Nanao Bay and Noto Peninsula.

The inside of the Main Enclosure
The monument stands an the Main Enclosure
The Shiroyama Shrine on the ruins of the Main Tower
A view from the Main Enclosure

To be continued in “Nanao Castle Part3”
Back to “Nanao Castle Part1”