154.Tamaru Castle Part2

Castle ruins coming from several periods

Features

Going through Main and Second Gates

Today, the ruins of Tamaru Castle have been maintained by Tamaki Town and still located in the center of the town. The ruins of the Main Gate behind the remaining Outer Moat are also the entrance of the ruins and the town hall. The route on the entrance is paved and straight, not like the originally bent road, probably because of convenience for cars. If you drive to the ruins, you can use the parking lot of the hall.

The map around the castle

The Outer Moat in front of the Main Gate Ruins
The Main Gate Ruins

The paved road goes up to the hill passing through the Second Gate Ruins surrounded by stone walls and the partially remaining Inner Moat. The route is still bent similar to the original one. Next comes the Third Enclosure in the past, however, the present route goes around it which is used as a school. You can see one of the few remaining buildings of the castle, the Fujimi-mon Gate, which had been sold, but moved to the present position, not like in the original one, on the way.

The partially remaining Inner Moat
The Second Gate Ruins
The Third Enclosure Ruins which is used as a school
the Fujimi-mon Gate which was moved to the present position

You can enjoy both Earthen and Stone Walls at Northern Enclosure

You can go directly to the Main Enclosure along the way but you should consider going the separate promenade around the Northern Enclosure. This is because you will be able to feel the long history of the castle when you see it. It is surrounded by old stone walls, and earthen walls outside. Earthen walls were commonly used in the Middle Ages before stone walls were used, so the earthen walls might have been built in the early stage of the castle.

The entrance of the promenade around the Northern Enclosure
Going on the promenade
The earthen walls of the Northern Enclosure outside

The stone walls also look like those of Azuchi Castle, one of the earliest examples of stone walls for castles, which Nobukatsu’s father, Nobunaga built. You might think the stone walls were built by Nobukatsu, but historians point out most of the castle’s stone walls were built by the Inaba Clan.

The stone walls of the Northern Enclosure
The combination of stone and earthen walls of the Northen Enclosure
The ruins of Azuchi Castle

Main Enclosure has several Attractions

Going back to the main route, the paved road reaches the Main Enclosure, so you can easily enter it. Its alternating entrance surrounded by stone walls, called Koguchi, which was restored in the present time based on the achievements of the excavation.

The route to the Main Enclosure
The entrance of the Main Enclosure
A view of the entrance from above the stone walls

One of the highlights of it is the stone wall base for the Main Tower. Part of it such as the stone steps were added later than the original. However, the basic type, called Anagura-siki or the Cellar Type, is a very early method for Main Tower bases. Historians say the base might have been built by Nobukatsu.

The inside of the Main Enclosure
The stone wall base for the Main Tower
The inside of the base (the Cellar Type)

The second one has a good view of the town from it. The area around the town looks rich and peaceful, probably the same as in the past. That proves the good location of the castle.

A view from the Main Enclosure

The rest is the stone walls surrounding the enclosure, you can look around. They look newer and more processed than those of the Northern Enclosures, so the Kuno Clan might repaired them.

The stone walls of the Main Enclosure
Part of the stone walls were made with two tiers

To be continued in “Tamaru Castle Part3”
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50.Hikone Castle Part3

I admire the great efforts of Hikone City.

Features

Western Enclosure, Guardian of Back Side

There are many other attractions in this castle. For example, there is the Western Enclosure in the back of the Main Enclosure. It has the remaining Western Enclosure Three-level Turret to protect the back side of the castle. There is also another large, deep ditch with a bridge over it in front of the turret like the front side. This castle was protected strictly on both sides.

The aerial photo around the castle

The Western Enclosure Three-level Turret
The Large Ditch in front of the turret
The bridge over the ditch
The interior of the third floor of the turret
A view from the third floor

Extensive Original Front Side

Also consider walking around the southwest part of the castle, on the opposite of the front entrance. You will see there is still a large area surrounded by the Middle Moat and the Inner Moat. It is very comfortable to walk along the moats looking up the Main Tower. You will see the Kyobashi-guchi-mon Gate Ruins behind the Middle Moat, the Main Gate Ruins behind the Inner Moat and so on. You can also see this area had originally been the front side of the castle against the Toyotomi Clan at Osaka Castle in this direction.

The Kyobashi-guchi-mon Gate Ruins
The area surrounded by the Middle Moat and the Inner Moat
The Main Gate Ruins
The Funamachi-guchi-mon Gate Ruins, the other route over the Middle Moat
A distant view of the Western Enclosure Three-level Turret from around the Middle Moat
A distant view of the Main Tower from around the Middle Moat

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Hikone Castle was under the Japanese Army to be sold. When the Emperor Meiji visited Hikone in 1878, he felt sorry about the lost of the castle and ordered to preserve it. The castle was owned by the Imperial Household, followed by the Ii Clan and now Hikone City. In 1945 during World War II, the US Army was planning an air raid to Hikone in the evening, on August 15th just after the Emperor Showa declared the end of the war. The castle might have been saved by the emperors twice. Hikone City is trying to register the castle on the World Heritage List.

The illuminated Hikone Castle
The Large Ditch in front of the Balance Turret
The Main Tower at the Main Enclosure
The Genkyuen, the garden for the lord at the castle site

My Impression

When I visited Hikone Castle, I was very pleased to enter not only the Main Tower, but also most of the remaining turrets. It is very rare compare to other castles. I asked an officer why they allow some visitors to enter these turrets. His answer was that because they stored all of the items in the castle buildings into the Hikone Castle Museum. I understood it and was impressed by the great efforts of the city for preserving and continuing the castle into future generations.

The Balance Turret
The interior of the Balance Turret
The entrance of the Drum Gate Turret
The Western Enclosure Three-level Turret
The interior of Western Enclosure Three-level Turret
A view of the Hikone Castle Museum from the Main Enclosure

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about 10 minutes away from Hikone IC on the Meshin Expressway. There are several parking lots in the castle site.
By public transportation, it takes about 15 minutes on foot from the JR Hikone Station.
To get to Hikone Station from Tokyo: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Biwako Line at Maibara Station or Kyoto Station.

The parking lot next to the Stable

Links and References

Hikone Castle, Visit Omi

That’s all. Thank you.
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50.Hikone Castle Part1

The home base of the Ii Clan, a senior vassal of the shogunate

Location and History

Shogunate sent Ii Clan to Important Military Base

Hikone Castle is located near Biwa Lake in Shiga Prefecture and considered as one of the most popular historical sites in Japan. It has its Main Tower which is one of the twelve remaining and the five national-treasure Main Towers in Japan. It also has five castle buildings which are designated as Important Cultural Properties. The main portion of the castle also remains in a good condition with the buildings above, stone walls, and other structures. Because of it, the castle site has been designated as a National Special Historic Site since 1956.

The remaining Main Tower of Hikone Castle, as a National Traesure
The Western Enclosure Three-level Turret of Hikone Castle, as an Important Cultural Property

After the Battle of Sekigahara between Ieyasu Tokugawa and Mitsunari Ishida in 1600, Ieyasu got the power as the ruler of Japan. Ieyasu promoted his senior vassal, Naomasa Ii to the lord of the territory beside Biwa Lake, which Mitsuanri had owned. Naomasa first lived a mountain castle called Sawayama Castle Mitsunari lived. However, Naomasa thought it was not enough because he needed a stronger and more convenient castle. The Toyotomi Clan was still at Osaka Castle and there were many lords in western Japan, who thought their master was Toyotomi, not Tokugawa. They might have gotten together and attacked the Tokugawa Shogunate which Ieyasu established in eastern Japan. Naomasa’s territory was located in the area which could avoid the attack to eastern Japan.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Naomasa Ii, owned by Hikone Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle is built as Construction Order by Shogunate

After Naomasa died in 1602, his young son, Naotsugu conducted the new castle’s location with Ieyasu. They finally decided to build it on a low mountain at 50m high near Biwa Lake, which would be called Hikone Castle. The castle was built as a construction order by the shogunate with help of over 10 other lords. In order to hurry to complete the construction, they used waste materials from other abandoned castles like Sawayama Castle. However, the construction continued long since 1603, as the scale of castle was huge.

Hikone Castle was built from the top to the foot of the mountain

The Main Tower, Main Hall and other turrets were built together, surrounded by stone walls, on the ridge of mountain to make it easy to protect. Deep ditches were dug around both edges of the ridge to avoid enemies’ invasions to the center of the castle. Moreover, five long-line stone walls were built along the slopes of the mountain to prevent the enemies from moving smoothly.

The main portion of the castle on the mountain, from the signboard at the site
The large ditch in front of the Taiko-yagura Turret
The long-line stone walls behind the Main Gate

The mountain was surrounded by tripled water moats and the Main Gate was built behind them. The gate was open to the southwest direction towards Osaka Castle where the Toyotomi Clan lived. Seri-kawa River flowed out of the moats in this direction, so it could have been the forth moat.

The illustration of Hikone Castle and Town, exhibited by Hikone Castle Museum
The past Main Gate drawn in the signboard at the site
The present Main Gate Ruins

It becomes Castle for Peaceful Time

The castle was completed in 1622, about twenty years after its launch. However, the situation dramatically changed in 1615 during the construction. The Tokugawa Shogunate defeated the Toyotomi Clan in that year. After that, the construction was done only by the Hikone Domain building houses for living and government. As a result, the new Main Hall for the lord was built at the foot of the mountain on the opposite side of the Main Gate. The gate to the hall was called the Front Gate just like a new Main Gate. The castle town was also developed around the castle. They were either connected to Biwa Lake through waterways or ponds for water transportation.

The restored Main Hall
The present Front Gate Ruins

Fortunately, no battles happened at Hikone Castle throughout the peaceful Edo Period. The lord of the castle, Ii Clan also played an important role in the central government as the head of hereditary feudal lords. Out of ten, five heads of the shogun’s council of elders came from the Ii Clan and it happened once in 265 years during that period. The most famous one is definitely Naosuke Ii at the end of the Edo Period. He decided to open more doors to foreign countries by signing the Treaty of Amity and Commerce between the US and Japan in 1858. However, he was unfortunately assassinated by the opposite Ronin outside the Sakurada-mon Gate of Edo Castle in 1860. This incident decreased the power and authority of the Tokugawa Shogunate and would be a trigger of the Meiji Restoration.

The portrait of Naosuke Ii, owned by Hikone Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Sakurada-mon Gate of Edo Castle

To be continued in “Hikone Castle Part2”