102.Kaminokuni-Katsuyama Date Part1

The Mountain Castle & The Ainu People

Location and History

Japanese people get active in Hokkaido where Ainu people live

Kaminokuni-Katsuyama Date was a hall which was built in the Middle Ages in the western part of Oshima Peninsula of Hokkaido. At that time, the island was called Ezo, where the Ainu people lived. They spoke a different language and had a different way of life from the Japanese people that lived on the mainland. They earned a living by hunting, fishing and trading, unlike the mainland Japanese people, who farmed.

The location of the castle

The painting of Ainu men, attributed to Isabella Lucy Bird, in the 19th Century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

In the late 14th Century, some Japanese people were active in the Oshima Peninsula, in particular the southern edge of Hokkaido. The leaders started to build several halls for living and trading alongside this peninsula. The halls were called the Dounan (southern region) 12 Halls, such as Shinori Tate in the eastern part of the peninsula which was called “Shimonokuni” or the lower province. While the western part was referred to as “Kaminokuni” or the upper province.

The ruins of Shinori Tate

Nobuhiro Takeda repels Ainu Rebellion

The Ando Clan, which led the Japanese people in Ezo, also tried to rule the island aggressively. Because of this, it caused an uprising of the Ainu people, who was led by their leader Koshamain in 1456. The angry Ainu people managed to capture 10 of the 12 Dounan Halls, including Shinori Tate. One of the two surviving halls was Hanazawa Tate located in the upper province, which was owned and controlled by The Kakizaki Clan, who was affiliated with the Ando Clan. They were obviously at a disadvantage however, because the rebellion was ultimately crushed when Koshamain was shot with an arrow by Nobuhiro Takeda, a guest commander of The Kakizaki Clan.

The portrait of Nobuhiro Takeda (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Nobhuhiro is originally from Wakasa province, which at that time was located in the central region of the mainland of Japan, which did a lot of trading with Ezo, via the Sea of Japan. For example, potteries like Echizen ware that were made in the surrounding areas were often used in Ezo. The province sold kelp, processed from Ezo. Nobuhiro might have been a vagrant on this well-known route. Therefore, he managed to only become the adopted son of The Kakizaki Clan, but also the chosen leader of the Japanese people in Ezo Island.

A jar of Echizen ware in the Middle Ages, owned by Hakone Museum of Art (licensed by Daderot via Wikimedia Commons)

Nobuhiro builts Kaminokuni-Katsuyama-Date

Nobuhiro would eventually build a new hall near Hanazawa Tate, on a hill located below Iouzan Mountain, which is now known as Kaminoyama-Katsuyama Date, in 1470. The word “Date” means “hall”, however because of its size, it looked more like a mountain castle or a sort of medieval city on the mountain. Nobuhiro probably built his stronger hall based on his experience because most of his previous halls ended up being captured. The hill of the hall had deep valleys on both sides, and dry moats in both the front and the back. There were lots of houses on the hill as well, which were surrounded by fences. A famous region was the Oma Port, located below the hill, so the lord of the hall managed to control the trading that happened at the coast of this region.

The miniature model of Kaminokuni-Katsuyama-Date, exhibited by the Katsuyama Castle Guidance Facility

Even after the completion of the new hall, some Ainu people would sometimes rebel and attack the hall. The Kakizaki Clan under the command of Nobuhiro, managed to repel the Ainu attacks, mainly because of the robust construction of the hall, and by the use of traps. The Kakizaki Clan were very cunning, as they managed to convince the Ainu people to join them in a peace treaty. After filling up on liquor, the Ainu people were too intoxicated to fight back, and were ultimately murdered during the party. Ainu people never doubted the Kakizaki’s intentions. On the other hand, both Japanese and Ainu people somehow managed to live in harmony together, in the medieval city. You can even find burial sites where both Japanese people and Ainu people were buried in. This led to a long and complex relationship between the Japanese people and the Ainu people.

The defense system of the front of Kaminokuni-Katsuyama-Date, from the miniature model above
burial mounds of Ainu people around the hall

The Kakizaki Clan eventually moved their home base to Matsumae, the southern edge of the peninsula because it was more convenient location for trading. That lead to the launch of both the Matsumae Domain, as well as Matsumae Castle during the Edo Period. Soon after that, the clan renamed themselves The Matsumae Clan. Eventually, Kaminokuni-Katsuyama Date would be abandoned during early stages of the Edo Period.

Matsumae Castle

To be continued in “Kaminokuni-Katsuyama-Date Part2”

3.Matsumae Castle Part3

Will the Main Tower be rebuilt or repaired?

Features

Northern and Western parts of Castle

If you have time, you should consider walking around the other sides of the castle ruins. The temple district is beside the Outer Moat Ruins at the northern side of the castle. It had originally been built for the defense of this side when the site had only the hall. However, this side eventually became the weakest point compared with the other sides of the castle. That’s why the former Shogunate Army was able to attack it. You can now enjoy a relaxing walk there seeing some of the temple buildings which were designated as Important Cultural Properties.

The map around the castle

The Outer Moat Ruins at the northern side of the castle
The main gate of Hogenji Temple as an Important Cultural Property
Ryuunin Temple as an Important Cultural Property

The western side is a promenade on the bottom of the former Outer Moat. You can walk on it by looking up at the Main Enclosure. This side is supposed to be more defensive than the northern side.

The promenade on the bottom of the former Outer Moat
You can see how tall the Main Enclosure is
Looking up at the Main Enclosure

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Matsumae Castle was abandoned and only the Main Tower and the gate in the Main Enclosure remained as the ruins. However, the tower was unfortunately burned down by an accidental fire in 1949. It was externally restored in 1961, but since it’s been 60 years, its concrete building looks old. So, Matsumae Town is considering whether the tower should be rebuilt in the original way or repaired including safety measures such anti-earthquake systems. In addition, the castle ruins have been designated as a National Historic Site since 1935.

The Main Tower of Matsumae Castle before being burned down, taken in 1935  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The restored Main Tower
The Main Tower building looks aging when you see its interior

My Impression

I think Matsumae Castle is a very unique one which has a mix of the traditional Japanese style and a newer advanced style which matches the current situation. As a result, it may have been not enough as the castle was defeated twice. However, it must also be preserved as a record of history. In my opinion, the best season for visiting it should be spring with cherry blossoms, but be aware that there will be a huge crowd as well. Cherry Blossom season is a popular time for locals as well as tourists, so expect more people than usual.

The Man Enclosure Gate in the front and the Main Tower in the back
The Man Enclosure Gate on the left and the Main Tower on the right
hydrangea blooming is also good

How to get There

I recommend using a car when you visit the castle ruins because there are only a few buses available.
It is about a 2-hour drive away from Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station or the center of Hakodate City. From Hakodate Airport, it takes about 2.5 hours to get there. There is a parking lot in the castle ruins. It may be a good idea to rent a car at the station or the airport.
To get to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station from Tokyo: Take the Hokkaido Shinkansen super express at Tokyo Station.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Matsumae Castle Part1”
Back to “Matsumae Castle Part2”

3.Matsumae Castle Part2

So much more to see than just cherry blossoms and The Main Tower

Features

How to enter Castle ruins park

Today, the ruins of Matsumae Castle have been developed as Matsumae Park which is also known for cherry blossoms that consist of about 250 kinds and over 10 thousand trees in total. If you visit them even in August, you can enjoy hydrangea blooming there, which usually blooms in June in the mainland of Japan. Of course, you can also enjoy the castle ruins all year round.

The map around the castle

hydrangea blooming on the stone walls

Drivers can enter them from the Matsumae Town area beside the sea in the south by going through the front entrance, and then passing the Third Enclosure, to the parking lot of the Second Enclosure.

The Matsumae Town area
The front entrance
The earthen and stone walls of the Third Enclosure
The parking lot at the Second Enclosure

People on foot can enter them from the eastern side through the back entrance to the center.

The Umasaka Route goes from the eastern side of the castle ruins
The restored area around the Outer Back Gate
The center of the castle ruins

Ruins of Facilities for coastal defense

This eastern side of the ruins were well developed by Matsumae Town. For example, other entrances of the castle, the Tenjinzaka Gate and the Outer Back Gate were rebuilt. The stone walls of the Second Enclosure and its mud walls on them were partially restored. Part of the Outer Moat in front of them was dug again.

The restored Tenjinzaka Gate
The restored stone walls with mud walls of the Second Enclosure and the Outer Moat

In the Third Enclosure below, you can see some remaining pedestals of the batteries, such as the No.5 Buttery’s with stone walls. If you stand at the ruins of the Drum Turret at the southeastern corner of the Second Enclosure, you will see how good the view of the sea is as well as a good location for spotting ships in the past.

The pedestal of the No.5 Buttery
A view of the sea from the buttery pedestal
A view of the Second Enclosure from the buttery pedestal
The ruins of the Drum Turret
A view from the Drum Turret Ruins

Restored Main Tower and Remaining Main Enclosure Gate

In the Main Enclosure, there is the restored three-level Main Tower. It is actually a modern concrete building, but its external appearance is almost the same as the original one. Only its stone wall base is intact. If you look at them carefully, you can find some dents on it. They are the traces of being shot by guns in the wars during the Meiji Restoration. Its roof is covered with cooper plates to bear the cold climate of Hokkaido, same as the original one.

The restored Main Tower
There are traces of the wars on the stone wall base

You can enter the tower to learn more about the castle and the domain inside. The top floor is also used as the observation platform. However, you may feel like the building is too old.

An exhibition inside the Main Tower building
A view from the top floor

Many people might only focus on the Main Tower, but there are other interesting things to see in the enclosure. The Main Enclosure Gate beside the tower is the only remaining intact building of the castle, which has been designated as an Important Cultural Property since 1950. The gate was built using wooden materials while its stone walls supporting it look unusually precise as if they were built during the present time.

The remaining Main Enclosure Gate
The gate building is certainly made of wood
The stone walls were built very precisely

Remaining part of Main Enclosure Main Hall

The entrance hall of the Main Hall is preserved in front of the gate. It had once been used as the entrance of a school in the back of the gate, its original position. It was moved to the current position in 1982. This entrance hall is said to be part of Fukuyama-kan, the hall which had existed before the castle was built. The original position is a square with a lawn.

The entrance hall of the Main Hall
It has a good decoration
The square which had the Main Hall in the past

To be continued in “Matsumae Castle Part3”
Back to “Matsumae Castle Part1”