You can also visit other enclosures near the Main Enclosure. For instance, the Nukui Residence is next to the Sakura Riding Ground. It has the ruins of its entrance which was built using a huge stone called Kyu-shaku-ishi or 2.7m Wide Stone, which might have been the Back Gate of the castle.
The Nukui ResidenceThe ruins of its entrance which was built using a huge stone called 2.7m Wide Stone
The Second Enclosure is the next to the Nukui Residence, which was also an important defensive point. Finally, the Third Enclosure is over another large deep ditch. Unfortunately, you will have to go up and down the stairs on very steep cliffs to get there.
The Second EnclosureThe imaginary drawing of the Second Enclosure (from the signboard at the site)The steep cliff of the Second Enclosure
Later History
In the Edo Period after Nanao Castle was abandoned, the Kaga Domain banned people from cutting down trees around the mountain. This prevented farmers cutting down trees and materials. The study of the ruins started about 100 years ago, and as a result, the ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1934. Nanao City has been maintaining the ruins since 1966. The city is planning to provide a fine landscape in the main portion and develop the Main Route from the foot of the mountain while preserving the ruins properly.
A view from the stone wallsThe city view of Nanao City from the castle ruinsThe Main Route to the main portion of the castle
My Impression
I saw the signboard at the site that wonders of wild boars that often dig up the ruins. When I walked down from the Second Enclosure to get to the Third Enclosure, I noticed the back of a wild boar. I have been told that wild boars can attack you suddenly without warning. Therefore, I decided to give up to get there and head back. Visiting mountain castles is very interesting as long as you take precaution. Be careful not to provoke wild animals, as they can attack you unknowingly.
The signboard that tells about wild boarsThe back of the wild boar
How to get There
I recommend using a car when you visit the ruins. If you want to go directly to the main portion of the castle, It is about 15 minutes away from Nanao-Shiroyama IC on the Noto Expressway. If you want to walk from the foot of the mountain, I would recommend parking at the Nanao Castle History Museum. it takes about one hour to the top going through the Main Route.
The Nanao Castle History MuseumThe entrance of the Main Route
The main portion of the castle is still outstanding.
Features
From Parking lot to Main portion of Castle
Today, you can access the main portion of the ruins of Nanao Castle directly by car. The ruins, however, don’t have castle buildings now, but their foundation remains intact. There is a parking lot on one of the enclosures under the Cho Residence. You can walk on the well developed trail to the Main Enclosure from the parking lot.
The map around the castle
The Parking lotThe trail to the Main Enclosure
You can also see the large deep ditch called Horikiri between the Main Enclosure and the Cho Residence followed by the vertically cut cliff called Kirigishi of the Main Enclosure along the trail. They are, however, artificial.
The large deep ditch between the Main Enclosure and the Cho ResidenceThe vertically cut cliff under the Main Enclosure
You will first reach the Chodo-maru which was the place where weapons were prepared under the Sakura Riding Ground. The original Main Route also reached the Chodo-maru in the past.
The Chodo-maruThe Main Route to Chodo-maruThe imaginary drawing of Chodo-maru (from the signboard at the site)
Wonderful stone walls
Next, you will see the large five-tier stone walls piled up naturally called Nozura-zumi when you walk up to the Sakura Riding Ground. The stone walls look beautiful because of the moss that covers it. They were built by Toshiie Maeda and are one of the highlights of the castle.
Climbing to the Sakura Riding GroundThe five-tier stone walls Toshiie Maeda builtThe stone walls covered with the moss
From the front of the Sakura Riding Ground, you can go straight to the Main Enclosure through the Yusa Residence. However, this route was not original. It was said to have been built when the Shiroyama Shrine was established on the enclosure about 80 years ago. Thanks to that, you can also see the great three-tier stone walls of the enclosure which is close by.
The entrance of the Sakura Riding GroundThe Yusa ResidenceThe route direct to the Main EnclosureThe three-tier stone walls of the Main Enclosure
Main Enclosure was well protected
The enclosure was protected well by the stone walls and the vertically cut cliff in the past. The original route zigzagged and went around the back of the enclosure, guarded by the other square space called Soto-Masugata which was put on the outside of the enclosure.
The stone walls and vertically cut cliff protecting the Main EnclosureThe square space outside the original entrance of the Main Enclosure
The inside of the Main Enclosure is basically empty and the monument of the castle remains standing. The shrine is on the ruins of the Main Tower. The tower is thought to have a cypress bark roof or shingled roof, because no roof tiles were ever found during the excavation. The view from the enclosure is amazing. If the weather is nice, you will be able to see the whole view of Nanao City along the Nanao Bay and Noto Peninsula.
The inside of the Main EnclosureThe monument stands an the Main EnclosureThe Shiroyama Shrine on the ruins of the Main TowerA view from the Main Enclosure
Nanao Castle was a large mountain castle located in Noto Province, what is now the modern part of the northern Ishikawa Prefecture, the Hokuriku Region. The castle was built on about 300m high mountain ridges and the name “Nanao” originates from the number of the ridges which is seven. The Hatakeyama Clan was a relative of the Ashikaga Shogunate in the Middle Ages. One of the groups of the Hatakeyama Clan was sent to Noto Province as the governor of the province in 1408. Since then, the clan developed Nanao Castle. The castle became the capital of the province with the castle town prospering at the foot of the mountain. A great painter by the name of Tohaku Hasegawa came from this town in the middle 16th Century. He left a portrait of a warlord which was said to be that of famous Shingen Takeda from its impression, but it is now said to be one of the lords of the Hatakeyama Clan.
The location of the castle
The relief map around the castle
The portrait of a warlord who may have been a lord of the Hatakeyama Clan, attributed to Tohaku Hasegawa, owned by Seikei-in Temple, Mt. Koya (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Hatakeyama Clan governed it with senior vassals
The Hatakeyama Clan governed Noto Province and Nanao Castle for about 170 years together with their senior vassals such as the Yusa Clan, the Cho Clan and the Nukui Clan. They often cooperated with each other to defend attacks from the invaders, but they often had to deal with internal conflicts. It was both a strength and weakness for them. The structure of the castle also reflected the formation of the lord and the senior vassals. The main portion of the castle was on the highest one of the seven ridges called Matsuo-yama. There you will be able to see the Main Enclosure on the top, the Yusa Residence, the Sakura Riding Ground, the Nukui Residence, and the Second Enclosure in line with the ridge. The Cho Residence and the Third Enclosure were on the both sides of the main portion divided by the large deep ditches. As shown in the names of the enclosures, the senior vassals had their own enclosures for their residences, which showed the balance of their power.
The imaginary drawing of Nanao Castle (from the signboard at the site)The imaginary drawing of the main portion of Nanao Castle (exhibited by Nanao Castle History Museum)
Uesugi and Oda Clans battled over Castle
Around Noto Province in the late 16th Century, the two great warlords were dominating, Nobunaga Oda in the west of the Province and Kenshin Uesugi in the east. Kenshin decided to attack Nanao Castle in 1576 despite the lord of the castle being a child who was supported by the senior vassals. Kenshin was said to be the strongest warlord, and he only needed to siege the castle without the need for an aggressive attack. The siege lasted for about two months, and the young lord was unfortunately killed by the epidemic. The senior vassals had different opinions. On one side, the Cho Clan wanted to ask Nobunaga for help, however, the Yusa Clan did not feel the same way. Nobunaga finally sent his reinforcement to the castle, and the Yusa Clan managed to defeat the Cho Clan and supported Kenshin. Eventually, the castle finally belonged to Kenshin.
The portrait of Kenshin Uesugi, owned by the Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Despite the victory, Kenshin died just six months later, and as a result, Nanao Castle was eventually occupied by Nobunaga. Nobunaga gave Noto Province and Nanao Castle to his retainer, Toshiie Maeda in 1581. Toshiie built the Three-layer Main Tower on the Main Enclosure and large scale stone walls which was the front side of the castle. On the other hand, Toshiie also built his new home base called Ko-Maruyama Castle near Nanao Port for the convenience of the government and ease of transportation. Nevertheless, the reason why he continued to improve Nanao Castle was thought to be for the new Main Tower. Furthermore, the stone walls showed his authority and it symbolized the lord of the castle has changed in that area. The castle was eventually abandoned in 1589.
The portrait of Toshiie Maeda, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The stone walls which Toshiie Maeda built
