51.Azuchi Castle Part1

Azuchi Castle, which had many unique characters, suddenly appeared and disappeared in a short amount of time like its master, Nobunaga. As a result, it has a lot of mysteries which attract us. This article will focus on 5 items of the mysteries, which people often dispute about.

Azuchi Castle was, needless to say, known for the final and most popular home of Nobunaga Oda. Other than that, he created a typical style of Japanese castles, including the main tower, turrets, and white walls on top of the stone walls, which are guarded by defensive gates and are surrounded by water moats. The style was passed down from one generation to the next by other great Japanese lords. That’s why we still think it as the most typical Japanese castles’ style. Therefore, Azuchi castle was the inspiration for many other castles that came after it.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

However, the castle had a very short life for its impact. The construction of the castle launched in 1576. Nobunaga started to live in its main tower three years later. Its completion was done in September of 1581 (according to the luna calendar), just 9 months before Nobunaga’s death during the Honnoji Incident in Kyoto on the 3rd of June the following year. The main tower of the castle was burned down around the 15th of June for some unknown reasons. The Oda’s relatives still used the remaining parts of the castle for a while. Atter that, the castle was eventually abandoned in 1585 because their new home, which was called Hachimanyama Castle, was completed.

The ruins of Hachimanyama Castle

As you saw, the castle, which had many unique characters, suddenly appeared and disappeared in a short amount of time like its master, Nobunaga. As a result, it has a lot of mysteries which attract us. For example, its own name “Azuchi” is one of them. A record of the Hosokawa Clan says that Nobunaga changed the name of the land to Azuchi. However, the record doesn’t say why. Some speculate the name came from Kyoto’s nickname “Heian-rakudo” which borrows the two Chinese characters of Azuchi (安土). The original Chinese characters of Heian-rakudo is as followed: 平安楽土. They think Nobunaga wanted the castle to be the new capital of Japan. The speculation is not very plausible because other experts argue that other speculations are more plausible.

Azuchi Mountain

This article will focus on 5 items of the mysteries, which people often dispute about. I will also compare Theory A with Theory B for each item by summarizing the opinions about each one. Theory A will mainly consist of conventional wisdom from the officials, historians, and experts. Theory B, on the other hand, will focus on the opinions of Mr. Senda who is a famous castle archaeologist and from me (in the last part).

Location and History (Mystery Showdown)

Mystery of the Straight Main Route to the Mountain

Introduction

A surprising thing was discovered in the ruins of Azuchi Castle during the excavations since 1989 by Shiga Prefecture. Castles on mountains during the Sengoku Period usually had zigzagged routes to the top and had defensive walls, gates and turrets on the way to the top. Azuchi Castle Ruins had had stone walls on the way of the main route, which looked like a typical mountain castle at that time. However, the stone walls were built by Sokenji Temple at Azuchi Mountain during the Edo Period, abd not the Sengoku Period. The excavation team removed the stone walls and discovered that there was the original straight main route to the mountain, which is approximately 180m long. It also found the ruins of residential areas maybe for the senior vassals along the route, such as “Hideyoshi Hashiba (then later Hideyoshi Toyotomi who would be the ruler of Japan). In addition, four gate ruins were found around the entrance of the route. Three of the four gates had a simple design, called “Hira-koguchi”, where visitors (and possibly enemies) could have passed through easily. I wonder Why the straight main route was built instead of the zigzagged route which is typical of defensive castles during the Sengoku Period?

The diorama of the stone walls on the main route before it was removed, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum
The current main route of Azuchi Castle
The ruins of the residence of Hideyoshi Hashiba

Theory A

One theory suggests this route was used only for special visitors in special cases. It was particularly considered as the route for the emperor’s royal visit to Azuchi Castle though it never happened. That’s why the route was built straight for the convenience of the visitors. The straight layout might also have been emulated to look like the central street of Kyoto. In addition, there are no records of this route because it was rarely used. The three simple gates around the route entrance must have also been built only for these visits. The layouts were very similar to that of the imperial palace at that time. The gates were used depending on the visitors’ classes. The ruins of the residential areas along the route might have been used as the facilities for the visitors. According to the imaginary drawing through the use of CG of the main route, the great main tower of the castle stands over there (refer to the third picture at the bottom). The visitors on the route would feel the power of the castle’s master, Nobunaga Oda

The ruins of the main gate
The diorama of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum
The imaginary drawing of the main route of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Gifu Castle

Theory B

The next theory was the main route was built not only for the royal visit, but also for the residential areas, as I mentioned earlier. In fact, Nobunaga had built the similar straight main route in Komakiyama Castle on Komakiyama Mountain, which was his home earlier on. The residential areas of his senior vassals were constructed along the route, too. The route was straight until the midway point of the slope of the mountain but the route above had zigzagged patterns for defensive purposes. This had been done when Nobunaga was young, so he never met the emperor. Azuchi Castle had the same system as Komakiyama Castle. The route to the top zigzags after 180m. Several defensive gates were also built on the way to the upper part. Why didn’t Nobunaga make all the routes straight if he wanted them to use only for the royal visits? The reason for the three simple gates were designed to classify Nobunaga’s retainers when they went to the castle. In addition, the masters of the residential areas of Azuchi Castle were very busy and had their own territories in other locations. As a result, the areas were usually vacant, which wouldn’t appear on records.

The ruins of Komakiyama Castle
The main route of Komakiyama Castle
The zigzagged route of Komakiyama Castle just after the straight route

Mystery of the Main Hall

Introduction

The excavation team also researched the top area of Azuchi Mountain, which includes the main enclosure. They found another answer. The team discovered that the stone foundations of the main hall on the enclosure have wider intervals than the typical halls at that time. After some studies, it was found that the layout of the stone foundations of Azuchi Castle Hall is very similar to that of Seiryoden Hall in the imperial palace during the Edo Period. Shincho-koki, which is the most reliable biography of Nobunaga, stated that Azuchi Castle had room for the royal visit or the emperor’s stay. A noble’s diary also says that the emperor would go to Azuchi. What did the main enclosure of Azuchi Castle really look like?

The current main enclosure of Azuchi Castle

Theory A

One plausible theory suggests there must have been the main hall for the emperor on the main enclosure. Nobunaga might have thought he would move the emperor and the capital of Japan from Kyoto to Azuchi. Before the construction of Azuchi Castle, Nobunaga retired as the lord of the Oda Clan. He also resigned from all his positions in the imperial court until the completion of the castle. Nobunaga might have wanted to be the person who surpasses all the positions of Samurai and the imperial court. He actually gave his castle in Kyoto to the current prince. He also adopted the prince’s son. These facts might indicate that Nobunaga would invite one of them to Azuchi as the new emperor. If the new emperor lived in the main hall of the main enclosure, Nobunaga could look down on him from the much higher main tower. That would symbolize Nobunaga was just like the most powerful monarch of Japan.

The portrait of Prince Sanehito, owned by Sennyuji Temple, (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Theory B

An alternative theory suggests the main hall must have been the government offices. Nobunaga usually lived in the main tower and the second enclosure, with his family where other people were rarely allowed to enter. The other third enclosure on the mountain was used as the reception hall. Therefore, if the main enclosure was used just for the emperor, there would be no place for the government to stay in. According to architects, it is impossible to determine what was built using only stone foundations. The Shincho-koki biography also states that there was another hall, called “Nanden” (which means “south hall”) in the enclosure. It was thought that Nobunaga usually met his retainers there. “The royal visit room”, written in the biography, also states that there was probably part of the hall or another small hall. As for Nobunaga’s position, he might have destined to become the next shogun, which was the traditional position for the new shogunate, according to a historian’s study.

The center of the diorama above, showing the second enclosure, the main tower ruins, the main enclosure, and the third enclosure (from the left to the right), exhibited by Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum

Mystery of the Main Tower

Introduction

The main tower of Azuchi Castle is one of the examples of the first proper high buildings for Japanese castles at that time. It was said that Nobunaga was the only person who lived in a main tower according to records. The tower must have had a spiritual aura and authoritative presence. According to Gyuichi Ota who was the author of the Shincho-koki biography and Luis Frois, a missionary who visited Japan at that time, it was about 32m tall (41m including the tower base) composed 5 levels (6 floors and 1 basement). The tower was very colorful. Especially, the 5th floor was a red octagon shape with Buddhist paintings on the inside walls. The top 6th floor was a golden square shape with Chinese saints’ painted on the inside walls. There are a lot of remaining stone foundations to the base, but they just lack the central one, which comes from the original conditions. What did the main tower actually look like?

The stone foundations of the tower base, which lacks the central one
The miniature model of the 5th floor, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Museum
The miniature model of the 6th floor, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Museum

Theory A

A popular theory suggests there is a drawing which shows the design of the tower, called “Tenshu-sashizu” (which means “the design of the tower”). It was recorded and passed down by a magistrate family of the Kaga Domain. It doesn’t say it is the design of Azuchi Castle tower, however, it matches the records mentioned above and the on-site situations. Dr. Akira Naito made a restoration plan using the drawing, which is wildly accepted. According to the plan, the tower had an atrium structure, and a pagoda on the center of the base without the stone foundation. Experts speculate that the pagoda would indicate the appearance from the ground, written in the Lotus Sutra. You can see the 1/20 scale model based on the plan in Azuchi Castle Museum. You can also see the real life model of the 5th and 6th floors of the tower in Nobunaga no Yakata Museum. The tower was vewed as a heaven for Nobunaga who would reign over the pagoda as the only living god.

The miniature model of the main tower, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Museum
The atrium structure and the pagoda in the model
A figure of Nobunaga siting on the 5th floor

Theory B

Others have argued the plan based on the Tenshu-sashizu drawing. They say that it is impossible that the characteristic atrium structure was not recorded. For this reason, there is another restoration plan which doesn’t the atrium. Furthermore, the most controversial problem is that if you rebuild the main tower just as Gyuichi said, the tower will have to hang over the existing base. Dr. Yoshihiro Senda has an alternative theory however. He says that the tower would be able to be supported by Kake-zukuri method. This method involves building the foundation by combining many columns and horizontal beams like lattices on rocks or the ground. Buildings using this method can been seen in some old shrines and temples such as Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto. It has also been seen in some castles like Himeji and Fukuyama. Dr. Senda points out the traces of stone foundation were found beside the base, which could indicate the Kake-zukuri method was used. In addition, the decisive evidence could be found in the future. Nobunaga sent the screen of illustration of Azuchi Castle, called “Azuchi-san-zu-byobu” to the Pope. The screen was once exhibited in the Vatican Palace but disappeared mysteriously. Officials from Shiga Prefecture is currently seeking for it in Italy. If it is found, it could be the discovery of the century.

The building based on the plan without the atrium (licensed by D-one via Wikimedia Commons)
An example of castle buildings using the Kake-zukuri method, at Fukuyama Castle, quoted from Fukuyama Castle Museum Website
The area beside the tower base, where the traces of stone foundation were found
The imaginary drawing of the “Azuchi-san-zu-byobu” screen

Mystery of Sokenji Temple

Introduction

Nobunaga founded Sokenji Temple inside Azuchi Castle. It is large for a castle. The materials of the temple were not new but were collected from older temples. This temple currently worships Nobunaga. However, curious to say, the temple officially says it was founded by a priest after Nobunaga died. According to Gyuichi’s records, there was a stone, named Bonsan, in the main tower. However, the stone was moved to the temple, according to Luis Frois. The temple was located at the middle point between the center of the castle and the side entrance. This point was important for protecting the castle, where defensive systems could have been built. So, why did Nobunaga build the temple instead of the systems?

The remaining Nio-mon Gate of Sokenji Temple
The remaining three-level tower of Sokenji Temple
The current side entrance

Theory A

Frois also said that Nobunaga founded the temple in order to make people worship him there. The Bonsan stone was the icon of Nobunaga. Frois described that Nobunaga also built a public noticeboard which states people should go to the temple and worship him on his birthday. As a matter of fact, Nobunaga thought his birthday (the 11th of May according to the luna calendar) was like the birthday of the western people. For example, he moved to the main tower on that day, not during lucky days where most Japanese people believed in. The conclusion is that Nobunaga made the important spot as his holy place of the temple.

The grave of Nobunaga at the second enclosure
There is a stone on the grave, which looks like Bonsan

Theory B

In fact, it was not unusual that castles had temples inside them. For instance, Kannonji Castle near Azuchi had Kannon-seji Temple. Takakage Kobayakawa, who was a great warlord in the Chugoku Region, built Kyoshinji Temple in his Ni-Takayama Castle. During the Muromachi and Sengoku Periods, the Samurai ceremonies consisted of two phases. The first one was to confirm the master-servant relationship at Shuden places. The second was to communicate with each other at Kaisho places. In the case of Azuchi Castle, the center of the castle was clearly equivalent to a Shuden place. Meanwhile, Sokenji Temple must have been used as a Kaisho place. For example, when Nobunaga invited his ally, Ieyasu Tokugawa to Azuchi Castle, a Noh play (similar to Kabuki play) was held there. In addition, there are no records about people worshiping Nobunaga at the Japanese side.

The diorama of Kannonji Castle, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum
Kannon-seji Temple (licensed by Jnn via Wikipedia Commons)
The ruins of Ni-Takayama Castle
The ruins of the Kyoshinji Temple

Mystery of the Main Tower burning down

Introduction

The center of Azuchi Castle, including the main tower, was burned down around the 15th of June in 1582 (according to the luna calendar), just after the Honnoji Incident on the 2nd of June. The following list are the relatives who were involved in using the castle and also the prime suspects who might have burned it down.

・Katahide Gamo: He was at Azuchi Castle on behalf of Nobunaga when the incident happened. However, he left the castle with Nobunaga’s family on the 3rd of June after he heard about the incident.
・Mitsuhide Akechi: He entered the castle on the 5th of June after he killed Nobunaga during the incident. He then gave the treasures of the castle to his retainers and moved to his original home of Sakamoto Castle.
・Hidemitsu Akechi: He was Mitsuhide’s retainer and held the castle instead of Mitsuhide. He left the castle on the 14th of June after he heard about his master being beaten by Hideyoshi Hashiba on the 13th. Taikoki, which is one of Hideyoshi’s biographies, says Hidemitsu was responsible for setting the castle on fire.
・Nobukatsu Oda: He was Nobunaga’s son, and he entered the castle on the 15th of June. According to Luis Frois, it was Nobukatsu who burned the castle down.

The castle might have burned down accidentally or by night thieves. However, if you must speculate one person from the list, who was the biggest suspect?

The stone foundations of the main tower base

Theory A

Nobukatsu must be the suspect as Frois said. Hidemitsu had an alibi that he was at Sakamoto Castle on that day. The Taikoki biography is only adds to the blames of the Akechi Clan. Frois also said that Nobukatsu did it for no reasons because he was unwise. Before the incident, he selfishly attacked Iga Province, failed to do so, and was yelled at by Nobunaga. After the incident, he battled against Hideyoshi, together with Ieyasu Tokugawa. However, he eventually made peace with Hideyoshi who dangled a carrot in front of him, without Ieyasu’s permission. Finally, he was fired by Hideyoshi who became the ruler after the battle of Odawara Castle. He rejected the change of his territory, ordered by Hideyoshi, though Ieyasu accepted it. Nobukatsu was not able to understand the situations properly. He was so incompetent that he could impulsively destroy the legacy of his father who was also angry at him.

The portrait of Nobukatsu Oda, owned by Sokenji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Theory B

This theory is believed in. Nobukatsu must be the suspect, too. However, he was not so incompetent that he did it for a good reason. When he attacked Iga Province, he was the independent lord of the Kitabatake Clan, so he could decide it. Nobunaga had adopted Nobukatsu to the clan as the next successor. He was still the lord of the Kitabatake Clan when he allied with Ieyasu. Hideyoshi mostly captured the territory of the clan (Ise Province) because Ieyasu was so strong. Nobukatsu had to compromise with Hideyoshi before his territory would be occupied. After that, he tried to mediate between Hideyoshi and Ieyasu. He also worked hard in the battle of Odawara Castle for Hideyoshi’s unification of Japan. Therefore, it might not be sensible for Nobukatsu to be fired completely even though he rejected Hideyoshi’s command. This might have been Hideyoshi’s strategy which attempted his prefered territory plan. After the Honnoji Incident, Nobukatsu wanted to be the lord of the Oda Clan, not just that of Kitabatake Clan. However, his brother, Notbutaka also wanted it. Nobukatsu might have burned the main tower down intentionally in order to prevent Nobutaka and other senior vassals from disturbing him.

The portrait of Nobutaka Oda, (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Azuchi Castle Part2”

53.Nijo Castle Part2

The eastern main gate is the only gate which visitors can use. It looks strict outside, however, if you enter inside, there will be an open space with the remaining guardhouse alongside. This is probably because this gate was the front gate of the castle, which was mainly used when ceremonies were held.

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Nijo Castle was used as a villa of the imperial family. For example, a party for the enthronement ceremony of the emperor Taisho was held there. The castle has become a historical site since 1934, named Former Imperial Villa Nijo-jo Castle. The site also became a World Heritage in 1994, as one of Cultural assets of the ancient capital of Kyoto.

The picture of the enthronement ceremony of the emperor Taisho (licensed by Ninijo via Wikimedia Commons)
The eastern main gate with the signpost of the historical site

Features

Gorgeous Second Enclosure

The eastern main gate is the only gate available to visitors. It looks strong on the outside, however, if you enter inside, there will be an open space with the remaining guardhouse alongside. This is probably because this gate was the front gate of the castle, which was mainly used when ceremonies were held.

The aerial photo of Nijo Castle, the eastern main gate is located at the lower right of the map (Google Map)
The inside of the gate, the guardhouse is in the back

If you turn right at the first corner of the tour course, you will see the Kara-mon Gate (which means Chinese-style gate). It was built with the high sophistication, as the front gate of the second enclosure main hall. It also has lots of golden decorations, which attracts many tourists, particularly those from overseas.

The Kara-mon Gate

The route from the eastern main gate to the main hall through the Kara-mon Gate has been the official one since the beginning. The main hall has been intact since it was renovated for the Kanei Royal Visit in 1626. That’s why it was designated as a National Treasure in 1952, with its gorgeous pictures on its movable sliding doors inside.

The main hall of the second enclosure

Unfortunately, we can not take pictures inside the hall. Therefore, let me explain to you about each hall while looking at the aerial pictures of the six halls. The hall basically consists of 6 buildings. The first one is the largest one (located on the bottom right of the picture), called “To-zamurai” (which means gate guardians). It was used as the entrance and the waiting rooms, including the special room for the imperial envoys in the back. The hall next to it is called “Shikidai” (which means retainers’ rooms). It was the place for the agency service between the visitors and the shogun. The service was done by Roju (the members of the shogun’s council of elders) who had their rooms in the back.

The aerial photo of the main hall (Google Map)
The “Shikidai” hall

The third hall is O-hiroma (which means large hall), where the visitors officially met the shogun. In fact, The Returning of the Power to the Emperor was officially announced there in 1867. The three buildings above were like the government office. The others in the back were like the shogun’s residences.
The fourth hall, called “Sotetsu-no-ma” (which means cycad room), was the connecting hall to them. The name originates from the cycad trees, presented from the Saga Domain. They were planted outside near it. Surprisingly, the trees are still alive there today.

The “Sotetsu-no-ma” hall in the left, the “O-hiroma” hall in the right, and the cycad trees are in the front

The fifth one is called Kuro-shoin (which means black library), where the shogun worked and met people in private. The famous picture of The Returning of the Power to the Emperor demonstrates the event in this room. The shogun (Yoshinobu Tokugawa) told the internal retainers about his decision in the picture.

The “Kuro-shoin” hall
The picture of the announcement of Returning the Power to the Emperor, owned by the Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The last one is called Haku-shoin (which means white library). It was used as the shogun’s private room.

The “Haku-shoin” hall

Is the Main Enclosure a Castle-like Place?

The main enclosure may be more likely a castle than the second enclosure. You can go there by crossing the bridge over the inner moat. The bridge used to have the second floor with roof overhead for the Kanei Royal Visit. The floor was demolished, but it is kept in a storage room, in case they want to restore in the future. If you go over the bridge, you will enter the remaining turret gate of the enclosure.

The bridge used to have the second floor with roof overhead

The inside of the gate is still surrounded by stone walls, which looks stronger than that of the second enclosure. The square inside the walls is one of the castle’s defense systems, called Masugata.

The Masugata system inside the gate

If you go to the center of the enclosure, the atmosphere around it will feel elegant. This is due to the place being developed as a garden for the former imperial villa. The remaining main hall of the enclosure is not the original of the castle but it came from the residence of the Katsura-no-miya imperial family in the Meiji Era. The emperor Taisho often stayed there when he was the prince.

The current main hall of the main enclosure

You can climb the main tower base, which had the real tower in the past. The emperor climbed the tower twice during the Kanei Royal Visit. The experts of the advisory panel for the site are now discussing how to restore the tower in the distant future.

The exterior of the main tower base

The tour course will eventually guide you to the exit of the enclosure through the western entrance which is the opposite side of the turret gate. This entrance also looks impenetrable with a square space even through it doesn’t have buildings there anymore.

The western entrance

There are other defensive systems around the main enclosure. For example, the passage in front of the bridge and the gate, you first passed through, is separated by two gates, one in the north, one in the south.

The northern gate, called Naruko-mon
The southern gate, called Momoyama-mon

In addition to the two gates mentioned above, there are two additional gates, which were built on the northern edge of the inner moat and on the southern edge of it. These gates were used to protect the castles from enemies’ attacks and to monitor regular visitors.

The northern partition gate
The southern partition gate

Furthermore, there are also two remaining storehouses on the western side of the enclosure. They were used to stock rice in preparation for a long siege. Three of the ten storehouses still remain in the castle today.

One of the remaining storehouses (in the northern side)
Another remaining storehouse (in the southern side)

If you have time, I recommend you visit the southwestern side of the enclosure. You may enjoy seeing beautiful flowers such as plum blossoms in the spring, hydrangea flowers in the summer, etc.

Hydrangea flowers in the area

Let’s walk around Nijo Castle!

Many tourists may see only the inside of Nijo Castle. However, this article will guide you to other perspectives of the site. Let us walk around the perimeter of Nijo Castle, which is about 1.9 km long. Let’s start from the eastern side of it, where many tourists gather, finishing to the northern side.

The eastern side is always crowded with tourists

If you walk along the northern side, you will see the northern main gate, another highly sophisticated one, following the eastern main gate. It was probably used to communicate with the shogunate government office of Kyoto, which was located across the road. In fact, it is uncertain when it was built, that means it might be the oldest building in the castle.

The northern main gate

If you go further, the smaller square is attached the larger square by a protrusion shown in the picture below.

The protrusion between the small square and the large square

You can also walk on the special pathway, which was partially developed on this side, to see the stone walls and moats of the castle more closely.

The view from the pathway

If you go to the western side, you will see the ruins of the western gate. It was the side entrance of the castle, which people usually used, but you cannot use it now because there is no bridge over the moat. It looks smaller and more defensive than the other highly sophisticated gates of the castle. Unfortunately, you cannot get close to the gate ruins even from the inside When Yoshinobu Tokugawa, who was the last shogun, escaped from this castle, he used this same gate, not the front gate, in order to avoid confrontations.

The ruins of the west gate

You will eventually see the other remaining “southwestern corner turret” at the corner between the western and eastern sides. It has quiet environment, compared to the southeastern corner turret.

The southwestern corner turret

You will also see water flowing out from the moat of the eastern side. This water comes from a natural spring of this site. In fact, this site had been an ancient pond, called “Shinsenen”, before the castle was built. The current Shinsenen was downsized and is next to the castle. The castle benefits from nature of Kyoto.

The signpost of the old Shinsenen pond
The water of the moat flows out

Where are the Old Nijo Castle Sites?

After walking around the current Nijo Castle, let us now go to the ruins of the old Nijo Castles. However, there are only a few of them remaining because they were all demolished. Basically, there is the only stone monument at each site.

Yoshiteru’s Nijo Castle, marked by the red box, Yoshiaki’s Nijo Castle, marked by the blue box, Nobunaga’s Nijo Castle, marked by the green box, and Hideyoshi’s Myokenji Castle, marked by the brown box (Google Map)
The monument of Yoshiteru’s Nijo Castle
The monument of Nobunaga’s Nijo Castle

Yoshiaki’s Nijo Castle Ruins have a few other things. Some of the stone walls were excavated when the subway constructions were done. They are now exhibited on three sites. One is near Sawaragi-guchi entrance of Kyoto Gyoen National Garden, and another is in the current Nijo Castle.

The stone walls, exhibited near Sawaragi-guchi entrance of Kyoto Gyoen National Garden
The stone walls, exhibited in the current Nijo Castle (licensed by Tomomarusan via Wikipedia Commons)

The other one is exhibited, about 10km away to the west of Nijo Castle, in Kyoto Bamboo Park. These stone walls have a distinct feature, which came from stone Buddha statues, collected by Nobunaga Oda.

The stone Buddha statues, which were used as the stone walls, are now exhibited in the Kyoto Bamboo Park

According to a Portugal missionary, Luis Frois, who was in Japan at that time, wrote that Nobunaga ordered his servants to carry these statues using ropes which made them look like prisoners. People in Kyoto were very afraid to see this because the people worshiped the Buddha statues. Some of the statues, which are exhibited in the park, were actually destroyed intentionally.

Some of the statues were actually destroyed intentionally

Even current Japanese people would be relieved to see that these statues survived despite the harsh treatment they were given.

My Impression

Looking at the histories of all the different Nijo Castles, there were some cases where the castles fell or their masters abandoned them. That may mean that Kyoto is easy to attack but difficult to protect. On the other hand, Kyoto must also have been an attractive place to stay for the masters. I think that the world was not built in a day and therefore, Nijo Castle was not built by one castle.

The garden of the second enclosure in the left and the Kuro-shoin hall in the right

That’s all. Thank you.

Back to “Nijo Castle Part1”

53.Nijo Castle Part1

Nijo Castle is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Kyoto, and a World Heritage Site, where many tourists overseas visit. The castle was built by Ieyasu Tokugawa who was the last ruler and the first Shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate. However, do you know about other Nijo Castles which other rulers and Shoguns had owned before Ieyasu? The current Nijo Castle, which only remains, is the final version of Nijo Castle including the others.

Location and History

Nijo Castle is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Kyoto, and a World Heritage Site, where many tourists overseas visit. The castle was built by Ieyasu Tokugawa who was the last ruler and the first Shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate. However, did you know about other Nijo Castles which other rulers and Shoguns had owned before Ieyasu? The current Nijo Castle, which is the only remaining castle, is the final version of Nijo Castles including the others. That’s because historians call the castles which the rulers and the Shoguns built in the center of Kyoto, the series of Nijo Castles. (Nijo Castle was originally the name for Ieyasu’s one at that time.)

The current Nijo Castle

Shoguns and Rulers of Nijo Castles

The first Nijo Castle was built by Yoshiteru Ashikaga, the 13th Shogun of the Ashikaga Shogunate. His ancestors had lived in a residence called “The Flower Palace” but it was weak defensively. When Yoshiteru became the Shogun, he couldn’t stay long even in Kyoto because of the conflicts against his retainers. In 1558, he eventually lived in Kyoto by making peace with Nagayoshi Miyoshi who was the most influential retainer, called “the first ruler”. Yoshiteru launched the building of his new palace, which was actually a castle with doubled moats and stone walls. Living in a simple palace was very dangerous even for a Shogun to survive at that time. Yoshiteru’s government was stable for a while. However, the situation got worse after Nagayoshi, whom Yoshihide relied on, died in 1564. Some of the Miyoshi Party suddenly attacked Yoshihide’s castle the following year. Yoshiteru, who was said to be a master swordman, fought bravely against his enemies, but was eventually killed by them.

The portrait of Yoshiteru Ashikaga, owned by National Museum of Japanese History  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
“The Flower Palace” from “The views in and around Kyoto (Uesugi version)”  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The location of Yoshiteru’s Nijo Castle, marked by the red box, the current Nijo Castle is surrounded by the doble moats (Google Map)

The owner of the second Nijo Castle was Yoshiaki Ashikaga, the last shogun of the Ashikaga Shogunate. His Nijo Castle had already been known as “The old Nijo Castle”. He decided to build the castle at the same place as Yoshiteru’s one after he came to Kyoto with Nobunaga Oda and became the shogun in 1568. Many may think this castle was given by Nobunaga, but in fact, it was that Nobunaga was mainly in charge of the civil construction of the castle before many buildings and garden items were moved from others. Nobunaga instructed the construction all by himself, which resulted in nearly 8m high stone walls completed in only less than 3 months. Another episode about it is that Nobunaga collected stone materials, including stone buddha status, for the walls by force. The castle is also famous for having the first Tenshu (which means Main Tower) building on record, which provided a historical epoch. The building seemed to look like a three-level turret. Yoshiaki and Nobunaga eventually fought each other; Yoshiaki fortified his castle even more to fight against Nobunaga. However, Yoshiaki escaped from his Nijo Castle to another castle and surrendered to Nobunaga. Nobunaga ordered his retainers to destroy the Nijo Castle.

The seated statue of Yoshiaki Ashikaga, owned by Tojiin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The location of Yoshiaki’s Nijo Castle, marked by the blue box, the current Nijo Castle is surrounded by the doble moats (Google Map)
Some of the stone walls of Yoshiaki’s Nijo Castle, unearthed and moved to Kyoto Imperial Park

The owner of the next Nijo Castle was Nobunaga, which is still not popular.
He had stayed in temples before that while being in Kyoto for a long time. He decided to build his own castle in Kyoto to stay in, in 1576, which is now called another “Nijo Castle”. The castle had buildings like a palace including a room for the emperor’s visit. The others about the castle were unclear. However, a question about its size is unclear. In fact, experts later confirmed that Nobunaga’s Nijo Castle was in fact smaller than Yoshiteru’s and Yoshiaki’s Nijo Castle. Moreover, Nobunaga gave the castle to the current prince after only two years. He resumed his stay in temples, including Honnoji where he would be easily killed by Mitsuhide Akechi in 1582. His son, Nobutada stayed in another temple with only a few retainers, heard about the incident, and decided to move to Nobunaga’s former Castle. He battled against Mitsuhide’s troops, but was eventually forced to commit Harakiri, while the castle being burned down.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The location of Nobunaga’s Nijo Castle, marked by the green box, the current Nijo Castle is surrounded by the doble moats (Google Map)
The portrait of Nobutada Oda, owned by Sokenji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ieyasu Tokugawa of Nijo Castle

Hideyoshi Toyotomi, the successor of Nobunaga, built Jurakudai Castle as his residence in Kyoto in 1587. The castle was located in the north of Nijo and was much larger than all three Nijo Castles earlier on. He invited the emperor to his castle, which meant its functions were similar to the three other Nijo Castles. However, he had built Myokenji Castle at Nijo to live in before Jurakudai Castle. Myokenji Castle was said to have its Main Tower while its other points are unclear. If more information would have been recovered, the castle would have been called another Nijo Castle.

The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
“The folding screens of Jurakudai Castle”, owned by Mitsui Memorial Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The location of Hideyoshi’s Myokenji Castle, marked by the brown box, the current Nijo Castle is surrounded by the doble moats (Google Map)

Ieyasu Tokugawa, who won the battle of Sekigahara in 1600, became the last ruler. He started to build his castle in Kyoto the following year, which would be the current Nijo Castle. The castle was completed in 1603, with its Main Tower added three years later by moving it from Yamato-Koriyama Castle. However, the range of it was different from the current one, which was over half the size of it, with only a single square. That’s why the castle at that time was called, Keicho Nijo Castle (Keicho was the name of the Emperor’s Era at that time).

The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, ownd by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The range of the Keicho Nijo Castle, marked by the purple box, the current Nijo Castle is surrounded by the doble moats (Google Map)
“The views in and around Kyoto” including the Keicho Nijo Castle, owned by Metropolitan Museum of Art (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ieyasu used his Nijo Castle to stay in and hold important ceremonies in Kyoto. For example, he invited the envoys from the emperor to the castle where a party was held after he became the first Shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate. His successor, Hidetada Tokugawa also used the castle in the same way. Ieyasu met his rival, Hideyori Toyotomi at the castle in 1611. Some say Ieyasu decided to destroy the Toyotomi Clan before they become a big threat to the Tokugawa Clan. The castle was eventually used as Ieyasu’s headquarters when he went to the battle of Osaka Castle in 1614. As a result, Ieyasu held patties at Nijo Castle again after his victory in 1615. Meanwhile, he issued the Acts Governing the Imperial Court and Nobility to control them at the same place in the same year. That meant the castle was an iconic place for the government.

The portrait of Hideyori Toyotomi, owned by Yogenin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The summer campaign of the siege of Osaka folding screens, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Hidetada and Iemitsu Tokugawa of Nijo Castle

After Ieyasu died in 1616, his son, Hidetada and grandson, Iemitsu still had many things to do. One of them was to form a good relationship with the Imperial family. Hidetada married his daughter, Masako to emperor Gomizuo in 1620. He became the emperor’s father-in-law. The final practice for his purpose would be to invite the emperor to Nijo Castle like Hideyoshi had used to do in Jurakudai Castle. Hidetada tried to have a special event to surpass that of the previous ruler.

The portrait of Hidetada Tokugawa, owned by Saifuku-ji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Iemitsu Tokugawa, owned by Kinzanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of the emperor Gomizuo, attributed to Korin Ogata, owned by Imperial Household Archives (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Masako Tokugawa, owned by Kounji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

This event would be held in 1626 during the Kanei Era after Nijo Castle was fully renovated. Therefore, the castle would be called Kanei Nijo Castle as what we see it now. The renovation included the land of the castle being extended to the west. It resulted in the land looking like two overlapped squares. The square on the west became the main enclosure for Hidetada’s main hall while the right one became the second enclosure for Iemitsu’s main hall which is the remaining one. The remaining gorgeous Kara-mon gate in front of it was built at the same time. The main enclosure also had the new main tower being moved from Fushimi Castle. The palace for the emperor’s visit was built in the second enclosure. The front gate of the castle had had two levels but was rebuilt to a single-level gate. This was because someone might have looked down on the emperor from the second floor.

The aerial photo of the current Nijo Castle (Google Map)
The remaining main hall of the second enclosure
The remaining Kara-mon Gate
The rebuilt front gate for the emperor’s visit, quoted from the website of Chiba Prefectural Central Museum
The current front gate being changed to a two-level gate after the visit

The event, called “Kanei Royal Visit”, was held for 5 days from the 5th of September (according to the lunar calendar), in 1626. The parade of about 9,000 people, including the emperor and his wife, Masako, went from the imperial palace to the castle. During the visit, lots of ceremonies were held. The most interesting one for us may be that the emperor climbed the main tower twice. There was the corridor bridge with roof overhead, covering the moat between the main and second enclosures. That meant the emperor was able to go the tower from his palace in the castle without having to go out. His first visit to the tower was on the 3rd day, but the view from the top was not good because of the bad weather. He went there again on the last day just before returning to his home. The royal visit was recorded on many sources, which would make people remember it for a long time. This event also symbolized the arrival of peace. After that, the 3rd shogun, Iemitsu went to Kyoto and Nijo Castle in 1634, which was his last visit there. Since then, the castle has been dormant for over 200 years when no shoguns went to Kyoto.

Part of “the Screens of the Royal Visit to Nijo Castle”, exhibited by Kyoto National Museum
The current bridge between the main and second enclosures, which had the corridor with roof overhead on it in the past

Iemochi and Yoshinobu Tokugawa of Nijo Castle

During the first 200 years, Nijo Castle was devastated. For example, the main hall and main tower of the main enclosure were burned down by accidental fires. The main hall of the second enclosure deteriorated. However, the castle got back to the political scenes at the end of the Edo Period. This was because the 14th shogun, Iemochi Tokugawa went to Kyoto for the first time as a shogun in 229 years, after he had been married to Kazunomiya, the emperor’s daughter. The imperial court was getting more powerful, backed up by some influential domains which later resulted in the Meiji Restoration. The shogun needed to deal with such a situation by himself. The shogunate tried to resume Nijo Castle for Iemochi’s stay. However, it was not enough due to the shortage of their budget. As a result, Iemochi mainly used the restored main hall of the second enclosure. He also used Osaka Castle to battle against the Choshu Domain, where he unfortunately died in 1866 due to illness.

The portrait of Iemochi Tokugawa, owned by he Tokugawa Memorial Foundation (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Iemochi’s successor, Yoshinobu Tokugawa had stayed long in Kyoto to back up Iemochi. However, he didn’t use Nijo Castle. He said the reason was that he couldn’t move freely when he stayed there under bureaucratic official rules. He continued to stay in his retainer’s residence even after he became the last shogun. He finally moved to the castle just one month before the famous Returning of the Power to the Emperor in October (according to the lunar calendar), in 1867. He announced it in the main hall of the second enclosure. The purpose of it was that after he resigned, he assumed he would be given another position to continue working for the imperial court while avoiding attacks from the influential domains. However, the domains refused Yoshinobu’s plan by issuing the Decree for the Restoration of Imperial Rule and asking Yoshinobu to return all his ranks and territories. His retainers got very angry, but it was a provocation from the domains. Yoshinobu eventually decided to escape from Nijo Castle to Osaka Castle with his retainers to avoid conflicts.

Yoshinobu Tokugawa when he was the shogun  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The picture of the announcement of Returning the Power to the Emperor, owned by the Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

After that, Nijo Castle belonged to the imperial court. On 3rd February (according to the lunar calendar), in 1868, the emperor Meiji went to the castle and ordered to abolish the shogunate. The castle was used as an iconic place for the government until the end.

The picture of the visit of the emperor Meiji to Nijo Castle, owned by the Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Nijo Castle Part2”