74.Iwakuni Castle Part3

The attractions of the Northern Enclosure few people visit

Features

Northern Enclosure remains destroyed

The real highlight of the original Iwakuni Castle is, in fact, the Northern Enclosure which few people visit. You can exit the Main Enclosure through the path beside the stone wall base. Then, you can pass the route across the large dry moat between the Main and Northern Enclosures. This was built by the founder, Hiroie Kikkawa to protect the Main Enclosure from sudden attacks of enemies.

The map around the mountain part

The path beside the stone wall base
The dry moat between the Main and Northern Enclosures
The earthen bridge across the dry moat

The inside of the Northern Enclosure is a square now, but if you climb down from it and walk around outside of it carefully, you may be surprised to see what you find. Lots of large stones collapsed and lie around the western side. On the other hand, its stone walls are still intact around the eastern side. This is because of how the Kikkawa Clan destroyed the mountain part of the castle. The clan at first destroy only the buildings of it, however, after the Shimabara Rebellion in 1638, the shogunate ordered the lords in western Japan to destroy unused castles completely. The clan had to do it by destroying part of the stone walls, but left the rest of them probably to protect the people living in that area.

The Northern Enclosure
Around the western side of the Northern Enclosure
Around the eastern side of the Northern Enclosure

Foot Area

The former residence at the foot is still surrounded by the Inner Moat, which is now the Kikko Park. Kikko Shine was moved into the park. The main buildings of the shrine are an Important Cultural Property. A Ema-do building (where votive picture tablets are hung) called Kinunkaku stands like a turret at a corner, which was built when the park was established.

The map around the foot area

The Kikko Park
The main buildings of Kikko Shine
Kinunkaku looking like a turret

Some original warriors’ houses remain around the area where you can enjoy walking, seeing, and relaxing.

The remaining Mekata Clan’s residence as an Important Cultural Property

My Impression

I think that Hiroie Kikkawa was a TrulyValiant who could make a decision of not fighting. Many of the Mori Clan at that time and some history fans today have complained that the clan could be a ruler if Hiroie fought in the Sekigahara Battle like I used to imagine. However, it must have been a gamble. The Mori Clan actually survives until today thanks to Hiroie’s decision. He was a far-sighted excellent leader. Iwakuni Castle also survives by practically responding to demands of society like Hiroie’s way of life. That’s why the castle site still prospers with Kintaikyo Bridge.

It may be better to use the wide path in the western part of the castle when you return
A Large Well called Otsurii in the part
The stone walls in the western part seemed to be all demolished
The eastern part still has great stone walls like ones below the Main Enclosure in the photo above

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about 20 minutes from Iwakuni IC on the Sanyo Expressway. There are several parking lots around.
By public transportation, you can take a bus bound for Kintaikyo from Iwakuni Station or Shin-Iwakuni Station and get off at the Kintaikyo bus center.
From Tokyo or Osaka to Iwakuni Station: Take the Sanyo Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Sanyo Line at Hiroshima Station.
From Tokyo or Osaka to Shin-Iwakuni Station: Take the Sanyo Shinkansen super express.

Iwakuni Castle and Kintaikyo bridge

Links and References

Kintaikyo-Bridge, Iwakuni City Homepage

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Iwakuni Castle Part1”
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154.Tamaru Castle Part2

Castle ruins coming from several periods

Features

Going through Main and Second Gates

Today, the ruins of Tamaru Castle have been maintained by Tamaki Town and still located in the center of the town. The ruins of the Main Gate behind the remaining Outer Moat are also the entrance of the ruins and the town hall. The route on the entrance is paved and straight, not like the originally bent road, probably because of convenience for cars. If you drive to the ruins, you can use the parking lot of the hall.

The map around the castle

The Outer Moat in front of the Main Gate Ruins
The Main Gate Ruins

The paved road goes up to the hill passing through the Second Gate Ruins surrounded by stone walls and the partially remaining Inner Moat. The route is still bent similar to the original one. Next comes the Third Enclosure in the past, however, the present route goes around it which is used as a school. You can see one of the few remaining buildings of the castle, the Fujimi-mon Gate, which had been sold, but moved to the present position, not like in the original one, on the way.

The partially remaining Inner Moat
The Second Gate Ruins
The Third Enclosure Ruins which is used as a school
the Fujimi-mon Gate which was moved to the present position

You can enjoy both Earthen and Stone Walls at Northern Enclosure

You can go directly to the Main Enclosure along the way but you should consider going the separate promenade around the Northern Enclosure. This is because you will be able to feel the long history of the castle when you see it. It is surrounded by old stone walls, and earthen walls outside. Earthen walls were commonly used in the Middle Ages before stone walls were used, so the earthen walls might have been built in the early stage of the castle.

The entrance of the promenade around the Northern Enclosure
Going on the promenade
The earthen walls of the Northern Enclosure outside

The stone walls also look like those of Azuchi Castle, one of the earliest examples of stone walls for castles, which Nobukatsu’s father, Nobunaga built. You might think the stone walls were built by Nobukatsu, but historians point out most of the castle’s stone walls were built by the Inaba Clan.

The stone walls of the Northern Enclosure
The combination of stone and earthen walls of the Northen Enclosure
The ruins of Azuchi Castle

Main Enclosure has several Attractions

Going back to the main route, the paved road reaches the Main Enclosure, so you can easily enter it. Its alternating entrance surrounded by stone walls, called Koguchi, which was restored in the present time based on the achievements of the excavation.

The route to the Main Enclosure
The entrance of the Main Enclosure
A view of the entrance from above the stone walls

One of the highlights of it is the stone wall base for the Main Tower. Part of it such as the stone steps were added later than the original. However, the basic type, called Anagura-siki or the Cellar Type, is a very early method for Main Tower bases. Historians say the base might have been built by Nobukatsu.

The inside of the Main Enclosure
The stone wall base for the Main Tower
The inside of the base (the Cellar Type)

The second one has a good view of the town from it. The area around the town looks rich and peaceful, probably the same as in the past. That proves the good location of the castle.

A view from the Main Enclosure

The rest is the stone walls surrounding the enclosure, you can look around. They look newer and more processed than those of the Northern Enclosures, so the Kuno Clan might repaired them.

The stone walls of the Main Enclosure
Part of the stone walls were made with two tiers

To be continued in “Tamaru Castle Part3”
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157.Hachimanyama Castle Part2

The castle ruins and modern tourist spot could be seen on the mountain.

Features

Going to Top by Cable Car

Today, visitors usually get to the ruins of Hachimanyama Castle by boarding the cable car from the foot of the mountain. The platform of the car at the foot is near the Himure Hachimangu Shrine which was moved there when the castle was built. The Hachimanbori Moats and the old town atmosphere also remain around as a popular tourist spot.

The map around the castle

The platform of the cable car
The Worship Hall of the Himure Hachimangu Shrine (licensed by 663highland via Wikimedia Commons)
The Hachimanbori Moats and the old town atmosphere

The cable car will bring you to the platform on the mountain in few minutes. The platform is below the Second Enclosure where the observation platform faces the city area in the southeast. Many people enjoy a good view while you can also see some remaining old stone walls of the enclosure.

A view from the cable car
The observation platform at the Second Enclosure
A view from the Second Enclosure
The stone walls around the Second Enclosure

Zuiryuji Temple in Main Enclosure

The Main Enclosure, the center of the castle, is now used as the Zuiryuji Temple which Hidetsugu’s mother, Tomo established. In fact, the temple was moved there from Kyoto in 1961 of the present time, however, it is absolute suitable for this castle. The entrance of the temple consists of a defensive square space surrounded by stone walls, called Masugata. That’s because it was also the original entrance of the enclosure. The temple uses the Imperial chrysanthemum crest because Emperor Go-Yozei helped Tomo first build it and some members of the Imperial family became its chief priest.

The aerial photo around the castle

The Zuiryuji Temple at the Main Enclosure
The doors use the Imperial chrysanthemum crests
The defensive square space inside the doors

View Spots in Northern and Western Enclosures

You can go to other enclosures by passing the Belt Enclosure as the route around the Main Enclosure. The high stone walls surrounding the Main Enclosure look old, wild but so great like those of Azuchi Castle. Historians are still not sure if these stone walls were completed by Hidetsugu or the Kyogoku Clan following him. A corner of them becomes round vertically, and it is not uncertain if the condition is original or it was from deterioration.

The stone walls around the Main Enclosure
The vertically round corner of stone walls

If you go to the Northern Enclosure which is another good viewing spot, you can see a view of the mountains with the ruins of Azuchi and Kannnonji Castles in the north.

The Northern Enclosure
A view from the Northern Enclosure
The ruins of Azuchi and Kannonji Castles

You can also go to the Western Enclosure with a view of Lake Biwa in the west.

The Western Enclosure
A view from the Western Enclosure

My recommended Barbican Enclosure

I recommend you go to the Barbikan Enclosure or Demaru because it was recently re-developed. The trees and bushes around the enclosure were cut down for a better view. You can get there by going down along the trail from the Western Enclosure. You will see a panorama view of the city area and you can imagine this enclosure should have been a good lookout.

The Barbican Enclosure
A view from the Barbican Enclosure
You can see the Barbican Enclosure from the city area (inside the red mark)

You can also walk around the stone walls of the enclosure close by, which is about 4m high. However, please watch your step as its foundation is on the steep and rough slope.

The stone walls of the Barbican Enclosure and a view form it
The corner of the stone walls (its round shape is rare)
The stone walls are illuminated at night

To be continued in “Hachimanyama Castle Part3”
Back to “Hachimanyama Castle Part1”