The great stone walls of the castle, the great view from the castle
Features
Becoming hiking trail now
Now, the ruins of Hiketa Castle has also become a hiking trail. There are two trails to the top of the mountain called the Tanoura Campsite side route and the Hiketa Port side route. If you drive to the castle ruins, it’s better for you to park beside the Tanoura Campsite side route.
The map around the castle
The location map of Hiketa Castle Ruins at the site
The trail is steep, but the top area is relatively flat. That meant it was a good point for a mountain castle as it was difficult to attack but easy to defend. You will first find the Northern Enclosure which has no stone walls. It was thought that the enclosure remained the same as what it had been before the Ikoma Clan came. However, the clan didn’t use it as their castle.
The entrance of the Tanoura Campsite side routeYou can see the trail is very steep from aboveThe Northern Enclosure
Great stone walls of Northern Second Enclosure
You will now see the apex of the castle, the doubled tier stone walls which surrounded the Northern Second Enclosure. The upper tier is 2 to 3m high and the lower tier is 5 to 6m high. So together, they are almost 10m high in total. Though the upper one is unfortunately covered to prevent it from collapsing, even just seeing the lower one is great.
Approaching the Northern Second EnclosureThe upper tier of the stone walls of the Northern Second EnclosureThe lower tier of the stone walls of the Northern Second Enclosure
These stone walls are originally form the Ikoma Clan’s period which can’t be seen in other castles like Takamatsu and Marugame Castles. This is because both castles were improved and developed by other lords after the Ikoma Clan. Only the remaining old stone walls at the foot of Marugame Castle might have been built by the Ikoma Clan.
The old stone walls of Marugame Castle
It was said that this enclosure had the Main Hall for the lord and there was the Main Gate under the enclosure. That is the reason why the great stone walls were built to show the authority of the lord to the visitors. Finally, the original Main Route to the Main Gate is not being used now.
The inside of the Northern Second Enclosure
Great view from Main Enclosure
From the Northern Second Enclosure, other enclosures spread into two directions which look like the letter U. One of them is the Main Enclosure in the south. It is long and narrow and faces the Hiketa Port. It also has some remaining stone walls and the ruins of the base for a Main Tower. Therefore, the enclosure would have stood out in the past. You can see a good view of the port and Hiketa town from the enclosure. That meant people in Hiketa would have looked up at the buildings and stone walls clearly in the past.
The remaining stone walls of the Main EnclosureA view seen from above the stone wallsThe ruins of the base for a Main TowerA view of Hiketa Port seen from around the base for the tower
佐竹氏による土造りの城
The castle made of earth by the Satake Clan
立地と歴史～Location and History
佐竹氏が新しく作った城～New Castle Satake Clan built
佐竹氏は古代の終わり頃から常陸国（現在の茨城県）を拠点としてきました。１６世紀後半、彼らは水戸城に住み、その領土は５４万８千石もの石高に相当しました（その当時の日本で８番目の大大名）。ところが、１６０２年に徳川幕府により東北地方の秋田に移されてしまいます。１６００年に起こった関ヶ原の戦いにおいて、幕府をはっきりとは支持しなかったからです。その領土は２０万石まで削減されましたが、新しい土地で新しい城を築くことを決心しました。それが久保田城でした。 The Satake Clan had been based in Hitachi Province (what is now Ibaraki Prefecture) since around the end of the Ancient times. In the late 16th century, they lived in Mito Castle and their territory was worth as much as an earning of 548 thousand Koku in rice (the 8th largest lord in Japan at that time). However, they were transferred to Akita in Tohoku Region by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1602, as they didn`t firmly support the Shogunate when Battle of Sekigahara happened in 1600. The size of their territory was reduced (to 200 thousand Koku in rice), but they decided to build their new castle in the new land. This was Kubota Castle.
城の位置～The location of the castle
お家芸だった土の城～Building Castles of earth was their Specialty
久保田城は、旭川沿いの標高４０ｍの神明山の上に築かれました。この城には天守はなく、ほとんどが土造りによるものでした。その理由としては、佐竹氏には石垣や天守を作る技術がなかったからとか、幕府の権威を恐れたためと言われてきました。佐竹氏が秋田に移った当時は、他の大名たちにとっては、石垣と天守がある城を作るのが普通でした。しかしながら、土造りの城を作ることは佐竹氏のお家芸だったのです。その証拠として、水戸城も挙げられます。佐竹氏はそこで技術を進化させ、佐竹氏の後の徳川氏はその土造りの城を最後まで使い続けました。佐竹氏は土造りだけで強力な城を作ることができたのです。 Kubota Castle was built on a 40m high mountain called Shinmei-yama alongside Asahigawa River. The castle was almost all made of earthworks with no Main Tower. It has been said that the reason for it is that Satake had no ability and techniques for building stone walls and a Main Tower, or they feared the Shogunate`s authority. In the same period as Satake moved to Akita, it was usual for other lords to build a castle with stone walls and a Main Tower. However, building a castle of earthworks was the specialty of the Satake Clan. There is evidence also with Mito Castle, Satake Clan improved this technique, and it was used by the Tokugawa Clan following Satake as a castle of earthworks till the end. That meant Satake could build a strong castle using only earthworks.
土造りの水戸城～Mito Castle made of earthworks
自然地形を生かした巧みな配置～Clever Arrangement using Natural Terrain
城の中心部は、内堀に囲まれ、二段になっていました。上段は「本丸」であり、下段は「二の丸」になっていました。中心部の周りは「三の丸」となっていて、外堀に囲まれていました。更には、三の丸の外側且つ川の内側には「西曲輪」「北の丸」が設置されていました。本丸には御殿があり、領主が住んでいました。本丸には５つの門がありましたが、外部からは二の丸を通らなけらば行けないようになっていました。佐竹氏は、自然の地形を生かしながら巧みな配置を行い、２０年以上の工事の後、城を完成させました。 The center of the castle had two tiers, surrounded by the inner moat. The upper tier was called “Honmaru” or the Main Enclosure, and the lower tier was called “Ninomaru” or the Second Enclosure. Around the center, there was “Sannnomaru” or the Third Enclosure, surrounded by the outer moat. In addition, “Nishikuruwa” or the Western Enclosure and “Kitanomaru” or the Northern Enclosure were placed outside the Third Enclosure inside the river. The Main Enclosure had the Main Hall where the lord lived, and four turrets instead of the Main Tower. It also had five gates, but anyone from the outside the castle had to go through the Second Enclosure to reach it. Satake complete the castle with clever arrangement and using natural terrain after over 20 year construction.
出羽国秋田郡久保田城画図部分、江戸時代～Part of the illustration of Kubota Castle in Akita District, Dewa Province, the Edo Period（出典：国立公文書館）
佐竹氏は江戸時代の期間中、久保田藩を統治しましたが、その支配は安定しませんでした。秋田は強風地帯であり、藩の民衆は風害による飢饉や、洪水や風雨による被害に苦しみました。これらにより一揆が頻発し、藩は予算不足に陥りました。久保田城も度々火災に見舞われますが、その都度再建されました。 Satake governed their Kubota Domain all through the Edo Period, but their governance was not stable. Akita was a very windy area, so the people of the Domain suffered several famines from dry winds, flood and water damage. It often caused riots, as a result, the Domain lacked resources. Kubota Castle also suffered fires, but was repaired and restored each time.
最後の藩主、佐竹義堯の銅像、千秋公園～The statue of Yoshitaka Satake, the last lord of Kubota Domain
特徴～Features
城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo of around the castle
城跡の千秋公園へ～To Senshu Park as Castle Ruins
現在、久保田城跡は千秋公園となっています。観光客は通常南から中土橋を通って現存する外堀を渡って三の丸や二の丸に向かいます。過去は東側にある黒門が城の正門でした。二の丸には広い敷地があり、かつては官庁や倉庫などの建物がありました。佐竹史料館では、久保田藩や佐竹氏に関する展示を行っています。 Now, the ruins of Kubota Castle has become Senshu Park. Visitors usually go across the remaining Outer Moat through Nakadobashi Bridge on the south to the Third and Second Enclosures. In the past, Kuro-mon Gate on the east was the front entrance of the castle. The Second Enclosure has a large space where buildings such as offices and warehouses were built. Satake Historical Museum exhibits the histories of Kubota Domain and the Satake Clan.
外堀～The Outer Moat城に向かう道～The road to the castle黒門跡～The ruins of Kuro-mon Gate二の丸～The Second Enclosure
本丸への長い坂～Long Slope to Main Enclosure
本丸へは、「長坂」と呼ばれる長く曲がりくねった階段を通って登っていきます。この場所はとても重要だったため、一部石垣が使われています。「長坂門」という門がちょうど曲がっている箇所に立っていました。階段を登り切った所には、本丸の正門である表門が復元されています。門の傍らには「御物頭御番所」という警護所が城で唯一の現存建物として残っています。 You can walk up to the Main Enclosure through a long and curved stairways called “Nagasaka” or the Long Slope. Stone walls have been partly used, as this spot was very important. A gate called “Nagasaka-mon” stood at the curved part. At the end of the stairways, Omote-mon Gate, the front gate of the Main Enclosure has been restored. There is the guardhouse called “Omono-gashira Gobansho” which is the only remaining building in the castle beside the gate.
長坂～The Long Slope長坂門跡～The ruins of Nagasaka-mon Gate復元された表門～The restored Omote-mon Gate現存している御物頭御番所～The remaining guardhouse
土造りの本丸～Main Enclosure made with Earthworks
本丸の中心には神社と最後の領主の銅像があります。城のようには見えないかもしれませんが、本丸を歩き回ってみれば、城の基礎は土だけですが、とても頑丈にできていることがわかると思います。櫓の一つ、御隅櫓が曲輪の北西角に再建されています。見晴らしをよくするために、元あったものより高く作られています。本丸にはいくつか出入口があるので、登ったり降りたりしてみると、この城がいかに自然の地形をうまく生かしているかが見て取れるでしょう。 The center of the Main Enclosure has a shrine and the statue of the lord of the castle. It may not look like a castle, however if you walk around the Enclosure, you can find the foundation of the castle is made of only earth, but strongly. One of the turrets, Osumi-yagura Turret has been rebuilt at the northwest corner of the Enclosure. It is built much higher than the original one for viewing. The Enclosure has several entrances such as the Back Gate, so you can also walk up and down enjoying how the castle uses natural terrain cleverly.
本丸～The Main Enclosure再建された御隅櫓～The rebuilt Osumi-Yagura Turret裏門跡～The ruins of the Back Gate本丸の土塁～The earthen walls of the Main Enclosure
その後～Later History
明治維新後、久保田城は１８７２年に秋田県庁舎となりました。この城はまた、秋田県と秋田市の始まりともなったのです。ところが、１８８０年にほとんどの城の建物は燃えてしまいます。１８９０年になって以前の領主、佐竹氏が城跡を買い上げ、秋田市に土地を公園として貸し出し、千秋公園と名付けられました。久保田藩の元藩士たちは１８９２年に公園に桜の苗を寄付しました。そのため、公園は桜の花でも有名になっています。 After the Meiji Restoration, Kubota Castle became the Akita prefectural office in 1872. That meant the castle also was the origin of Akita Prefecture and Akita City. However, most of the castle buildings were burned down in 1880. In 1890, the former lord, Satake Clan bought the castle ruins and lent the land to Akita City as a park named Senshu Park. Former warriors of the Kubota Domain donated cherry plants for the park in 1892, so that’s why the park has also become famous for its cherry blossoms.
御隅櫓と桜～Osumi-Yagura Turret with cherry blossoms（licensed by アラツク via Wikimedia Commons）
私の感想～My Impression
久保田城跡は、かつて近代公園として整備されたため、単なる公園としてしか見えないかもしれません。城跡の基礎部分をよく見れば、本当は土でできた城だとも気付いていただけると思います。この城と、これも佐竹氏が築いた水戸城とを比べてみるのもいいでしょう。秋田県は今、かつては苦しめられた風が強い気候を生かし、風力発電を推進しています。一方、現職（２０２１年３月現在）の秋田県知事は佐竹氏の子孫の方です。秋田は、伝統と革新の両方を重んじているようです。 You may find the ruins of Kubota Castle just like a park, because they were once developed as a modern park. You can also find the ruins was really a castle made of earth if you look at the foundation of the ruins carefully. It may be a good idea to compare this castle with Mito Castle that the Satake Clan built as well. Akita Prefecture is now developing lots of wind farms using the windy climate that they suffered from in the past. On the other hand, the governor of Akita Prefecture right now (Mar2021) is a descendant of the Satake Clan. I think Akita is trying to take good care of both tradition and innovation.
本丸に登る小径～The trail to the Main Enclosure秋田県の風力発電所～A wind farm in Akita Prefecture（licensed by 8-Forest via Wikimedia Commons）
ここに行くには～How to get There
城跡までは、ＪＲ秋田駅西口から歩いて約１０分です。 東京から秋田駅まで：秋田新幹線に乗ってください。 車で行く場合：秋田自動車道の秋田中央ICから約２０分です。千秋公園に駐車場があります。 It takes about 10 minutes from the west entrance of JR Akita station to the castle ruins on foot. From Tokyo to Akita st.: Take the Akita Shinkansen super express. If you want to go there by car: It takes about 20 minutes from the Akita-Chuo IC on Akita Expressway. Senshu Park offers a parking lot
リンク、参考情報～Links and References
・久保田城、秋田市公式サイト（Akita City Official Website） ・「よみがえる日本の城９」学研（Japanese Book） ・「日本の城改訂版第６０号」デアゴスティーニジャパン（Japanese Book）
