Saiki city – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

194.Saiki Castle Part3

People can climb Saiki Castle Ruins on the mountain any day, because the ruins are near the city area.

Features

Northen Enclosure and Two Reservoirs

Let us visit the Northern Enclosure on the northern ridge of the mountain, which spreads from the Main Enclosure as well. Its top area is also surrounded by low stone walls being lined up neatly. It is separated from the Main Enclosure by an altered gate with stone walls and has the exit to the Back Route (also called Wakamiya Route) nearby.

The mountain part of the castle

The long Northen Enclosure on the northern ridge

The stone walls surrounding the top of the Northern Enclosure

If you get out of the exit and climb down the trail on the route, you will eventually reach the two major reservoirs on the back valley, the upper Male Pond and the lower Female Pond. They are also surrounded by stone walls, which were probably considered the lifeline of the castle.

If you go up the trail a little, you can walk around the mid slope of the northern ridge where you can see some base stone walls beside the trail. The Northern Enclosure is supported by both of the stone walls around the top and the base. As you walk around, you will also see the great four-tiered stone walls supporting the Main Enclosure, which were recently discovered in 2009.

The path around the mid slope of the northern ridge

The stone walls supporting the base of the northern ridge

Defensive spot of Castle

There is also the Western Enclosure on the western ridge, which is next to the Second Enclosure, opposite the Main Enclosure. It is separated from the Second Enclosure by a narrow gate with stone walls and has the end point of the Suimei Route from the foot of the mountain. This was the defensive spot of the castle’s western side which is another viewing spot of the city area. You can also see round-shaped stone foundations there, which do not belong to the castle, but are the ruins of an anti-aircraft gun position during WWII.

The gate between the Second and Western Enclosures

The turret ruins at the Western Enclosure

The ruins of the anti-aircraft gun position

Remaining Main Hall Gate

The bottom part has the Third Enclosure Turret Gate, the only remaining building of the castle. This gate was the one for the Main Hall for the lord in the enclosure. The inside of it behind the gate is an empty space now. Saiki City Historical Museum is another attraction of the castle where you can learn about the history of the castle and city, including Takamasa Mori, the founder of the castle. You can also enjoy a view of the mountain with great stone walls on the top, from the front of the museum.

The map around the castle

The remaining Third Enclosure Turret Gate

The inside of the Third Enclosure is empty

The entrance of Saiki City Historical Museum

A view of the castle ruins from the front of the museum

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Saiki Castle was abandoned and all the buildings on the mountain were demolished. The mountain part was eventually used as a park and Mori Shrine. Saiki City started to excavate the mountain in 2009. The excavation team found that the castle was a newly built mountain castle in the Edo Period which was very rare in Japan. As a result, the castle ruins on the mountain were just designated as a National Historic Site in 2022. The bottom part had part of the Main Hall with its gate as an official building or a school for a long time, however the final remaining entrance of the hall was move to another place in 1969 for the construction of the Saiki Cultural Hall. The only remaining gate has been designated as a tangible cultural property of the city.

The photo of the entrance of the hall before being moved, exhibited by Saiki City Historical Museum

My Impression

I think people in Saiki City are proud of their home town and its history. For example, in their daily life, if they have time and the weather is not bad, they can climb Saiki Castle Ruins on the mountain any day, because the ruins are near the city area. As a result, they can enjoy beautiful scenery, get good health, and learn their local history. I wish I could live in an area like Saiki City.

A full view of the castle ruins (the mountain and foot)

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about a 15 minute drive away from Saiki IC on the Higashi-Kyushu Expressway. There is a parking lot for visitors in front of the castle ruins.
If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Oita bus from JR Saiki Station and get off at the Ote-mae bus stop. It takes a few minutes on foot to get there.
For visitors from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the express bus to Oita Station from Oita Airport after using a plane, and get the train on the Nippo Line from the station.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Saiki Castle Part1”
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194.Saiki Castle Part2

These stone walls are not so high, but they were built along the natural terrain, which look very beautiful.

Features

Four Trails

Today, the ruins of Saiki Castle have been well developed by Saiki City. They consist of the mountain part which maintains great stone walls on the top and the foot part which has the gate for the Main Hall and a modern historical museum. It’s up to you which part you go first, but let us go to the mountain part for now. There are still four trails to the top and three of which start from the front side near the remaining gate. You can choose the one from the three of Doppo-hi (the monument of Doppo Kunikida, a famous author) Route, Suimei (like beautiful nature) Route or Tojo (Going to the castle) Route. The first one is the most moderate and well paved as the approach to the shrine on the top. The second one is a natural-like trail on a ridge of the mountain. The last one is actually my recommendation that is steep and unstable, but is also likely to be original.

The map around the castle

Tojo Route goes zigzagged around the valley between ridges of the mountain. Please watch your step as there are several streams along the valley with fallen trees and collapsed stones lying. These stones seemed to come from stone walls or mounds along the route as you can see the remaining ones on the way.

some of the stones lying along the valley

The remaining stone walls along the route

Great Stone Walls on Mountain

After about 15 to 20 minute climb, you will reach the top area which is still covered by great stone walls. These stone walls are not so high, but they cover the top area largely along the natural terrain with multiple tiers in some points. They might have not been piled like high stone walls in other castles such as Kumamoto Castle, however, they match the shape of the mountain, which look very beautiful. Some stones of the walls also look white which are probably limestone, so builders might also have considered a fine view of the castle from the design stage.

The stone walls were built along the natural terrain

Only original path to Main Enclosure

You will see a stone bridge called Roka-bashi or the Corridor Bridge, over the end point of the route, connecting the Main Enclosure on the right and the Second Enclosure on the left. In fact, the bridge was the only original path to the Main Enclosure, so all the visitors had to go Second Enclosure first and go across the bridge to the narrow entrance of the Main Enclosure. The bridge might have been disabled when a battle happened.

The mountain part of the castle

The entrance of the Second Enclosure and the Corridor Bridge

Going to the Main Enclosure over the *Corridor Bridge*

Looking at the *Corridor Bridge* from the Main Enclosure

There is a small shrine on the Main Tower base of the Main Enclosure, where the larger building of Mori Shrine had been built, but was unfortunately burned down by an air raid during WWII. You can also use newer stone steps, which was built when the shrine was established, to enter of exit the enclosure, opposite the original entrance.

The photo of the Mori Shrine building which was on the base, exhibited by Saiki City Historical Museum

The newer stone steps of the Main Enclosure

If you walk down from the Main Enclosure to the end point of another route to the top, Doppo-hi Route, which is also other ruins of a gate called Kansui-mon, you can enjoy a great view of Saiki City area and Saeki Bay.

To be continued in “Saiki Castle Part3”
Back to “Saiki Castle Part1”

194.Saiki Castle Part1

Many lords built their castles on a plain or a low hill after the Battle of Sekigahara. However, Takamasa’s choice was to build his strongest castle on a mountain, which was rare then.

Location and History

Takamasa Mori builds Castle

Saiki City is located in the southeastern part of Oita Prefecture, Kyushu Region. It is known for its agriculture, forestry and fishing, in particular, Saiki Port is the largest landing port in the prefecture. The city actually originates from the castle town of Saiki Castle which Takamasa Mori first built. He was also the founder of the Saiki Domain which governed the castle and town all through the Edo Period between the 17th and the 19th Centuries.

The range of Saiki City and the location of the castle

Takamasa originally came from Owari Province, which is now the western part of Aichi Prefecture, and worked under Hideyoshi Hashiba who would be the ruler of Japan, Hideyoshi Toyotomi. After the unification of Japan, Takamasa was sent by Hideyoshi to Korea in 1592 and became active in the invasion of it. Hideyoshi gave Hita and Kusu Districts in Bungo Province (which is now Oita Prefecture) in 1595 to Takamasa in response to his contribution, following the former lord, the Otomo Clan which was fired by Hideyoshi. He improved some castles including Tsunomure Castle while he was in the territory.

The wooden statue of Takamasa Mori, from the signboard at Saiki City Historical Museum

After Hideyoshi died in 1598, a decisive battle over the county between the East Quad led by Ieyasu Tokugawa and the West Quad led by Mitsunari Ishida supporting the Toyotomi Clan took place in 1600, called the Battle of Sekigahara. Takamasa joined the West Quad which was defeated by the East Quad. He immediately surrendered to the East Quad. Considering other cases of the lords who supported the West Quad, Takamasa might have been fired or killed by the Tokugawa Shogunate which Ieyasu founded. However, he survived as the lord of another territory in Bungo Province, called Saiki. One of the reasons for his survival is said that his friend, Takatora Todo who was a powerful lord of the East Quad saved him. Another reason is probably Takamasa had the capacity to build great castles and improve civil government. He was also a specialist of guns.

*The folding screens of the Sekigahara Battle, owned by Sekigahara Town History and Folklore Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)*

*The portrait of Takatora Todo, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)*

Some of the demi-cannons Takamasa used, exhibited by Saiki City Historical Museum

New Mountain Castle, rare case after Battle of Sekigahara

The Saeki area already had a great mountain castle called, Togamure Castle, however, Takamasa built a new mountain castle as his new home base in 1601, which would be Saiki Castle. The reasons why he took the trouble to build another mountain castle are said to be as follows. First, the new castle was near the port and the expected castle town, so it was convenient for the government. Second, the mountain the castle was built on had had the Hachiman Shrine, that’s why it was called Hachiman Mountain and considered as a holy place, which could give the castle builder authority. Finally, the situation was still unstable because the Tokugawa Shogunate and the Toyotomi Clan were against each other at that time. Lords in Japan needed to prepare for the next battle. Though some other lords built their castles on a plain or a low hill, Takamasa’s answer was to build his strongest castle on a mountain, which was rare then.

The imaginary illustration of Togamure Castle, exhibited by Saiki City Historical Museum

*The miniature model of* Saiki Castle, exhibited by Saiki City Historical Museum

Saiki Castle was completed in 1605. The mountain is 145m high and has long and narrow ridges in the north and the southwest from the top. The top and ridges were all covered with stone walls. The top had the Main Enclosure and the Main Tower in it. The Second Enclosure was next to the Main Enclosure, which were connected by the Corridor Bridge, the only path to the Main Enclosure. The Second Enclosure had the Main Hall for the lord. It was not so large, but the lord and his family usually had to live on the mountain preparing for an emergency or a battle. The castle also had two reservoirs, called Men-ike or the Female Pond and On-ike or the Male Pond on a valley between the ridges. They were built for a long siege and also surrounded by stone walls.

The Main Enclosure on the right and the Second Enclosure on the left in the miniature model, the Corridor Bridge in inside the red circle

The Male Pond, still surrounded by the stone walls

Main Hall is built at foot of mountains in peaceful period

After the shogunate defeated the Toyotomi Clan in 1615, the situation changed. The government of the shogunate became stable. That meant lords in Japan didn’t need to live in an inconvenient hall on the mountain. In the case of the Saiki Domain, the third lord of the domain, Takanao Mori built the Third Enclosure and his new Main Hall at the foot of the mountain in 1637. As for the Main Tower in the Main Enclosure on the top, it is said to have had three-levels, but its details are quite uncertain. This is because it was unfortunately lost at the very first stage of the castle for some reasons.

The Main Hall at the foot of the mountain in the miniature model

To be continued in “Saiki Castle Part2”