Today, you can visit the ruins of Takatenjin Castle easily if you have a car. You can park in front of either the Main Route in the south or the Back Route in the north. If you want to get a taste of how tough the castle was, I recommend walking on the Back Route. The route is flat all the way to the foot of the mountain, but it gets very steep on the slope. It goes up and zigzags through rough cliffs for a while. However, when you reach the top, you will see that it is actually flat. After seeing this, you will understand that the natural terrain was more than suitable for the mountain castle.
The map around the castle
The northern entrance of Takatenjin Castle RuinsThe Back RouteThe steep slope through cliffsthe flat area on the top
Western ridge part
The spot you reached is called the Well Enclosure, which is the connecting point of the eastern and western ridges. The eastern ridge is the older part of the castle, which includes the Kane, Matoba, Main, Gozen, and Third Enclosures. These enclosures were built along natural terrain, which was partly surrounded by earthen walls and paths.
The Well EnclosureThe partly remaining earthen wallsThe original path around the Main Enclosure
The Main Enclosure is at the center and it is the highest point of the castle. You can look down vertically at the steep cliffs anywhere and see a view of Fort Hinodake, one of the Six Takatenjin Forts, from the enclosure. The Third Enclosure is located at the easternmost part of the castle, having a fine view. On a clear and sunny day, you can see a great view of Mt. Fuji in the east.
The Main EnclosureLooking down a steep slopeThe ruins of Fort HinodakeThe Third EnclosureA view of Mt. Fuji from the Third Enclosure
Eastern ridge part
The western ridge is the newer part of the castle which includes the Western, Babadaira, Second, Dono-o, and Seiro Enclosures. The Western Enclosure is the highest point of the ridge where Takaten Shrine currently stands now, so you can see a good view of the Pacific Ocean in the south. The Babadaira Enclosure is below the Western Enclosure and divided by a ditch. Over the Babadaira Enclosure, there is a narrow path. This path is often referred to as “Inumodori” which translates to “Dogs return” meaning “Dogs cannot go through because it’s too tough”.
Takaten Shrine on the Western EnclosureA view of the Pacific Ocean from the Western EnclosureThe ditch between the Western and Babadaira EnclosuresThe Babadaira EnclosureThe narrow path called “Dogs return”
The Second, Dono-o and Seiro Enclosures are in a line next to the Western Enclosure, which were fortified by the Takeda Clan. This was because other mountains are connected over the Seiro Enclosure, which could have been attacked from this direction. To prevent this from happening, Takeda built a long dry moat along these enclosures and deep ditches dividing them.
The long dry moat along the enclosuresThe ditch between the Second and Dono-o EnclosuresThe Seiro Enclosure
Hara Castle is known as the place where the Shimabara Rebellion was stopped in 1638. The castle was built near the edge of Shimabara Peninsula, in the western part of the Kyushu Region. The Arima Clan, one of the warlords in the region, first built the castle at the end of 15th Century. Harunobu Arima, the lord of the clan in the late 16th Century, was known as a Christian feudal lord. The Shimabara Peninsula possessed an international trade port called Kuchinotsu Port where Portuguese missionaries started to work in 1563. Christianity spread around the peninsula greatly and the area also prospered from trading. Harunobu originally lived in Hinoe Castle which the clan built many years ago. He renovated Hara Castle at the beginning of the 17th Century, probably as his new home base. However, he was punished by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1612 before he moved to the castle. His son was also transferred to another place in 1614.
The location of the castle
The replica of the statue of Harunobu Arima, exhibited by Arima Christian Heritage Museum, the original statue is owned by Daiunji TempleThe present Kuchinotsu PortThe statue of Father Valignano who came to Kuchinotsu to spread Christianity
Castle uses Natural Terrain and has Great Stone Walls
Hara Castle was built on several hills alongside Ariake Sea. The Main, Second and Third Enclosures were on different hills. These hills were by the sea with natural steep cliffs. They were divided by large and deep dry moats using the natural terrain as well. The side of the castle facing the land had a swamp. Overall, the castle could be very defensive. In particular, the Main Enclosure was all surrounded by stone walls. Its entrance, called Koguchi, was very large and had a zigzagging route using huge ornate stones. There was the Main Tower or a large turret inside the enclosure. These structures were thought to show the castle’s lord’s authority. The Second and Third Enclosures were made of soil and were probably used as warriors’ houses. The Matsukura Clan following the Arima Clan didn’t use Hara Castle and built a new castle, called Shimabara Castle, as their home base. Hara Castle was once abandoned in 1615, but at least its foundation, including the stone walls, remained.
A bird’s-eye view of the castle ruins, from the signboard at the site
The relief map around the castle
The remaining stone walls at the Main EnclosureShimabara Castle
Shimabara Rebellion happens due to Matsukura Clan’s oppression
The Matsukura Clan oppressed the farmers and Christians in their territory. Being Christian had not been allowed by the Tokugawa Shogunate since 1612. 1n 1637, the people in Shimabara Peninsula, together with the people in Amakusa Islands over Ariake Sea who were in the same situation, rebelled against the Matsukura Clan and the shogunate. They were officially led by a charismatic Christian boy, Shiro Amakusa, but actually guided by the masterless warriors, called Ronin, who were former retainers of the Arima Clan and other Clans. They first attacked Matsukura’s home base, Shimabara Castle, but failed. Then, they decided to be besieged in Hara Castle by themselves after they repaired it. Historians believe that they were waiting for reinforcements from Christians from other areas of Japan and Catholic countries like Portugal.
The imaginary portrait of Shiro Amakusa, owned by Shimabara Castle Christian Museum, from the exhibition of Arima Christian Heritage MuseumThe flag from Shiro Amakusa’s encampment, owned by Amakusa Christian Museum, from the exhibition of Arima Christian Heritage Museum
Annihilation of rebellion after 3-month siege
The siege started with about 37,000 defenders including women and children in December 1637. The troops from the shogunate first assaulted the castle but failed. Even the commander of the shogunate, Shigemasa Itakura was killed by a shot from the castle, as the counterattacks were professionally instructed and the castle was strong. The shogunate changed its tactics to encircle the castle with over 120,000 soldiers. The siege lasted for nearly 3 months, however, the reinforcements for the uprising army didn’t come. At the end of February 1638, the shogunate attacked the castle in full force when the defenders ran out of food. The castle fell and the rebellion was annihilated.
The portrait of Shigemasa Itakura, owned by Itakura Studying the Past Association (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)One of the georamas of Shimabara Rebellion, exhibited by Arima Christian Heritage Museum
The survivors of the uprising army’s fate was extremely severe. Almost all of them, except for some runaways, were killed. It is said that many of the Christians hoped to be killed as martyrs. Hara Castle was completely destroyed and buried by the shogunate. The corpses of the executed people were also buried with the castle. The lord of the area, Katsuie Matsukura was executed due to his misgovernment. Shimabara Rebellion was one of the greatest tragedies and had a big impact on Japanese history. This incident accelerated the policy of the national isolation of Japan by the Tokugawa Shogunate.
Part of the folding screens of Shimabara Rebellion, owned by Asakura City Akizuki Museum, from the exhibition of Arima Christian Heritage Museum
諏訪原城は短命でしたが、その役割はすこぶる戦略的でした。 Suwahara Castle had a short life, but its role was very strategic.
諏訪原城の二の曲輪中馬出し（The Central Umadashi of Ninokuruwa for Suwahara Castle）
Location and History
戦国時代、武田氏と徳川氏は、現在の静岡県西部にあたる遠江国を巡って戦いました。徳川氏は遠江国を本拠にしていましたが、武田氏はその領国を、甲斐国（現在の山梨県）と駿河国（現在の静岡県中部）から遠江に広げようとしていました。遠江には、浜松、掛川、高天神などいくつもの重要な城がありました。 In the late Civil War Period, the Tekeda clan and Tokugawa clan battled each other over Totoumi province which is now the western part of Shizuoka prefecture. Tokugawa was based in this province, while Takeda aimed to spread their territory from Kai (now Yamanashi pref.) and Suruga (now the middle of Shizuoka pref.) provinces to Totoumi. There were several important castles in Totoumi such as Hamamatsu, Kakegawa, Takatenjin and so on.
遠江国周辺の重要な城（Important castles around Totoumi Province）
武田氏は、遠江国の奥深くに位置し難攻不落として知られていた高天神城を手に入れようとしました。それは難しい命題であり、そのため武田は橋頭堡を必要としました。その橋頭堡が諏訪原城だったのです。諏訪原城は１５７３年に旧東海道に沿った牧之原台地の端に築かれました。その甲斐あって１５７４年に高天神城の奪取に成功しました。 Takeda took aim at Takatenjin castle which was located deep in the province, and known as impregnable. It was a difficult mission, so Takeda needed to make a bridgehead. That was Suwahara Castle. Suwahara Castle was built on the edge of Makinohara plateau alongside the old Tokaido Road in 1573. Thanks to their effort, Takeda was successful in taking Takatenjin castle in 1574.
諏訪原城周辺の起伏地図（A relief map around Suwahara Castle）
武田は余勢をかって、遠江の西の三河国にあった長篠城を攻撃しました。ところが、１５７５年５月の長篠の戦いにおいて織田・徳川連合軍に惨敗してしまいました。それ以降、武田の勢いは急激に衰え、徳川が代わって反撃を始めたのです。 Taking advantage of their momentum, they attacked Nagashino Castle located in Mikawa province on the west of Totoumi. However, they were completely beaten by the ally of the Oda clan and Tokugawa in the Battle of Nagashino in May, 1575. After that, Takeda’s influence declined rapidly, and Tokugawa started to raid back instead.
長篠合戦図屏風部分、徳川美術館蔵（Part of “Battle of Nagashino”folding screens, owned by Tokugawa Art Museum）licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons
諏訪原城は、長篠の戦いのわずか３ヶ月後、１５７５年８月に徳川方に占領されてしまいました。この城は今度は、まだ武田が確保していた高天神城に対する徳川の橋頭堡になったのです。徳川の粘り強い攻撃は、ついに１５８１年に高天神城を落とすことに成功し、それは１５８２年の武田氏滅亡につながりました。徳川の勝利をもって諏訪原城の役目は終わりました。この城は１５９０年までに廃城となり、その生涯はわずか１７年足らずでした。 Suwahara Castle was taken over by Tokugawa in August, 1575, just three months after the Nagashino battle. The castle was turned into Tokugawa’s bridgehead towards Takatenjin Castle that Takeda still held. Tokugawa’s persistent attacks finally made the castle fall in 1581 that would lead to the defeat of Takeda in 1582. With the victory of Tokugawa, the role of Suwahara Castle was finished. The castle was abandoned by 1590 meaning its lifespan was less than 17 years.
高天神城遠景（A distant view of Takatenjin Castle）
Features
諏訪原城跡には土台しか残っていませんが、武田流築城法が表れていると言われています。その流儀には、背後に自然の要害を備え、三日月形の堀を持ち、丸い形の「馬出し」があるとされています。馬出しとは、防御のため出入口の前に設けられた関門のことです。これは防御のために使われるだけではなく、城の内部から外の敵に対して攻め出す目的でも使われました。 The ruins of Suwahara Castle remain only its foundation, but they are said to show Takeda’s method of building castles. It has a rear natural hazard, bow-shaped moats and round-shaped “Umadashi”. Umadashi refers to defensive gateway barriers in front of the entrance of castles. They were used not only for defense, but also for offence from inside the castle to enemies outside.
諏訪原城の「二の曲輪中馬出し」（”Ninokuruwa Central Umadashi” in Suwahara Castle）
二の丸中馬出しの航空写真(The aerial photo of Ninomaru Central Umadashi)
諏訪原城は、これらの条件に全て当てはまります。まず急崖が本曲輪の背後、北東の方向にあります。そして二の曲輪、三の曲輪といった他の曲輪が、南西すなわち高天神城の方向に向かって広がっています。また、三日月形の堀と馬出しの組み合わせがいくつもあります。 Suwahara Castle met all of the factors. A steep cliff was behind its main enclosure called Honmaru in the north east direction, and other enclosures such as Ninokuruwa and Sannokuruwa spread out in the south west direction, which headed towards Takatenjin Castle. The castle also had several sets of a bow-shaped moat and Umadashi.
城跡の地図、現地案内版に加筆（The map of the ruins, from a sign at the site adding information）本曲輪背後の急崖（The steep cliff behind Honkuruwa）
特に、もっとも大きいものが二の曲輪の前で発掘され、復元されています（二の曲輪中馬出し）。ついでながら、最新の発掘の成果では、徳川はこの城を武田流の方法で改修したらしいのです。歴史家たちは、この結果に少し当惑しているようです。Especially, the largest one is excavated and restored in front of Ninokuruwa enclosure called “Ninokuruwa Central Umadashi”. In addition, the late excavation showed the castle was renovated by Tokugawa using Takeda’s method. Historians are still a bit puzzled by this.
馬出しと二の曲輪の間の深い溝（The deep ditch between Umadashi and Ninokuruwa）二の曲輪から馬出しへの通路（The passage from Ninokuruwa to Umadashi）
Later Life
諏訪原城は廃城となった後、長い間放置されました。それがかえって木々や土に覆われ、保全されることになったのかもしれません。明治時代になって、この遺跡周辺の土地は旧徳川藩士によって茶畑として開拓されました。 Suwahara Castle was left as was for a long time after being abandoned. It might have been preserved covered with forests and soil. In the Meiji Era, the area around the ruins was developed into tea plantation by former Shogunate warriors.
牧之原台地の茶畑（A plantation on Makinohara plateau）
第二次世界大戦後、ある郷土史家が城跡を調査し、結果を公開しました。この後、城跡は１９５４年に県史跡に指定され、そして１９７５年には国の史跡に指定されました。 After World War II, a local historian investigated the ruins and published them. After this, the ruins were designated as a prefectural historic site in 1954, and then a national historic site in 1975.
二の丸中馬出しを違う角度から（Ninomaru Central Umadashi from a different angle）
My Impression
私が思うに、徳川が武田流を踏襲した理由は単に効率的だったからでしょう。戦国大名は、必要な時に迅速に城を築く必要がありました。敵の城を占領したとき、最も効率的な方法は、その城が使われていた通りに使うことです。改修が必要な時には、その城が作られた方法によるのが最善でしょう。同じように、必要がなくなったときには、そのまま放置すればよかったのではないでしょうか。 I think the reason for Tokugawa using Takeda’s method was just for efficiency. Warlords had to build castles as necessary and quickly as possible. When they captured an enemy’s castle, the most efficient way to use it is using it as it was. When they needed to renovate it, following the way it was created would be the best. Likewise, they could easily abandon it when they no longer needed it.
復元された二の曲輪北馬出しの門（The restored gate of Ninokuruwa North Umadashi）
How to get There
城跡に隣接する諏訪原城ビジターセンターに駐車場があります。また、もしＪＲ金谷駅から来られる場合はちょっときついかもしれません。駅が城の崖下にあるからです。 The Suwahara Castle Visitor Center next to the ruins offers a parking lot. Or if you try to get the ruins from JR Kanaya Station, it may be tough to get them, because the station is under the cliff.
崖下の金谷駅（Kanaya Station under the cliff）
でも、もし挑戦されるとしたら、最近復元された旧東海道の金谷坂石畳を歩くことができます。 But if you try to do it, you can walk through the Kanaya sloped stone pavement on the old Tokaido which was restored recently.
旧東海道金谷坂石畳（The Kanaya sloped stone pavement on the old Tokaido）
