50.Hikone Castle Part1

The home base of the Ii Clan, a senior vassal of the shogunate

Location and History

Shogunate sent Ii Clan to Important Military Base

Hikone Castle is located near Biwa Lake in Shiga Prefecture and considered as one of the most popular historical sites in Japan. It has its Main Tower which is one of the twelve remaining and the five national-treasure Main Towers in Japan. It also has five castle buildings which are designated as Important Cultural Properties. The main portion of the castle also remains in a good condition with the buildings above, stone walls, and other structures. Because of it, the castle site has been designated as a National Special Historic Site since 1956.

The remaining Main Tower of Hikone Castle, as a National Traesure
The Western Enclosure Three-level Turret of Hikone Castle, as an Important Cultural Property

After the Battle of Sekigahara between Ieyasu Tokugawa and Mitsunari Ishida in 1600, Ieyasu got the power as the ruler of Japan. Ieyasu promoted his senior vassal, Naomasa Ii to the lord of the territory beside Biwa Lake, which Mitsuanri had owned. Naomasa first lived a mountain castle called Sawayama Castle Mitsunari lived. However, Naomasa thought it was not enough because he needed a stronger and more convenient castle. The Toyotomi Clan was still at Osaka Castle and there were many lords in western Japan, who thought their master was Toyotomi, not Tokugawa. They might have gotten together and attacked the Tokugawa Shogunate which Ieyasu established in eastern Japan. Naomasa’s territory was located in the area which could avoid the attack to eastern Japan.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Naomasa Ii, owned by Hikone Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle is built as Construction Order by Shogunate

After Naomasa died in 1602, his young son, Naotsugu conducted the new castle’s location with Ieyasu. They finally decided to build it on a low mountain at 50m high near Biwa Lake, which would be called Hikone Castle. The castle was built as a construction order by the shogunate with help of over 10 other lords. In order to hurry to complete the construction, they used waste materials from other abandoned castles like Sawayama Castle. However, the construction continued long since 1603, as the scale of castle was huge.

Hikone Castle was built from the top to the foot of the mountain

The Main Tower, Main Hall and other turrets were built together, surrounded by stone walls, on the ridge of mountain to make it easy to protect. Deep ditches were dug around both edges of the ridge to avoid enemies’ invasions to the center of the castle. Moreover, five long-line stone walls were built along the slopes of the mountain to prevent the enemies from moving smoothly.

The main portion of the castle on the mountain, from the signboard at the site
The large ditch in front of the Taiko-yagura Turret
The long-line stone walls behind the Main Gate

The mountain was surrounded by tripled water moats and the Main Gate was built behind them. The gate was open to the southwest direction towards Osaka Castle where the Toyotomi Clan lived. Seri-kawa River flowed out of the moats in this direction, so it could have been the forth moat.

The illustration of Hikone Castle and Town, exhibited by Hikone Castle Museum
The past Main Gate drawn in the signboard at the site
The present Main Gate Ruins

It becomes Castle for Peaceful Time

The castle was completed in 1622, about twenty years after its launch. However, the situation dramatically changed in 1615 during the construction. The Tokugawa Shogunate defeated the Toyotomi Clan in that year. After that, the construction was done only by the Hikone Domain building houses for living and government. As a result, the new Main Hall for the lord was built at the foot of the mountain on the opposite side of the Main Gate. The gate to the hall was called the Front Gate just like a new Main Gate. The castle town was also developed around the castle. They were either connected to Biwa Lake through waterways or ponds for water transportation.

The restored Main Hall
The present Front Gate Ruins

Fortunately, no battles happened at Hikone Castle throughout the peaceful Edo Period. The lord of the castle, Ii Clan also played an important role in the central government as the head of hereditary feudal lords. Out of ten, five heads of the shogun’s council of elders came from the Ii Clan and it happened once in 265 years during that period. The most famous one is definitely Naosuke Ii at the end of the Edo Period. He decided to open more doors to foreign countries by signing the Treaty of Amity and Commerce between the US and Japan in 1858. However, he was unfortunately assassinated by the opposite Ronin outside the Sakurada-mon Gate of Edo Castle in 1860. This incident decreased the power and authority of the Tokugawa Shogunate and would be a trigger of the Meiji Restoration.

The portrait of Naosuke Ii, owned by Hikone Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Sakurada-mon Gate of Edo Castle

To be continued in “Hikone Castle Part2”

143.Mino-Kaneyama Castle Part3

The ruins were preserved as a public forest.

Features

Arriving at Main Enclosure

You will finally reach the Main Enclosure on the top. The enclosure is also partly surrounded by stone walls. The southwestern corner stone walls are said to be part of the base for the Main Tower. However, it is still uncertain if the castle had the tower.

The map around the castle

The imaginary drawing of the Southwestern corner Turret (or Main Tower?) in the past, from the signboard at the site
The present stone walls at the southwestern corner
The remaining stone walls around the Main Enclosure

The inside of the enclosure is a square now, but stone foundations and roof tiles for some buildings were discovered by researchers.

The imaginary drawing of the Main Enclosure in the past, from the signboard at the site
The present path to the Main Enclosure
The inside of the Main Enclosure
You can see some remaining stone foundations
The ruins of the original Main Enclosure entrance

From there, you can see great views of the Kiso-gawa River in the north and the Nobi Plain in the west, like the lord of the castle did in the past. You will also realize the castle had a good location.

A view of the Kiso-gawa River from the Main Enclosure in the north
A view of the Nobi Plain River from the Main Enclosure in the west

Later History

After Mino-Kaneyama Castle was abandoned, many of its stone walls were destroyed and its buildings were demolished as waste materials. In the Edo Period, the Owari Domain which owned the mountain including the ruins banned people from entering it. After the Meiji Restoration, the mountain was preserved as an Imperial Forest or a government-owned forest. Even after the castle was abandoned, it was still difficult for people to enter it many years later. The mountain was sold to the local government which is now Kani City. The city researched the ruins between 2006 and 2010 and found that they still have the features of a Shokuho style castle. The castle ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 2013.

The monument for the mountain being sold to the local government

My Impression

When I visited the ruins of Mino-Kaneyama Castle, I pictured Tsuyama Castle which Tadamasa Mori finally built after he became the founder of the Tsuyama Domain in Mimasaka Province. Tsuyama Castle was built on a mountain with three tiers all surrounded by high stone walls. The castle was often considered impenetrable. I think Tsuyama Castle resembles Mino-Kaneyama Castle in the way that the stone walls were built. I also speculate that Tadamasa might have tried to build the strongest castle based on his experience of Mino -Kaneyama Castle.

The ruins of Tsuyama Castle

How to get There

I recommend using a car when you visit the castle ruins.
It is about a 15-minute drive away from Kani-Mitake IC on the Tokai-kanjo Expressway. There are several parking lots including the Barbican Enclosure around the ruins
If you want to use public transportation, you can take the YAO Bus from Akechi Station on Meitetsu-Hiromi Line and get off at the Moto-Keneyamacho-yakuba-mae bus stop. It takes about 15 minutes on foot from the bus stop to get there.
To get to Akechi Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express, transfer to the Meitetsu-Inuyama Line at Nagoya Station and transfer to the Meitetsu-Hiromi Line at Inuyama Station or Shin-Kani Station.

The parking lot at the Barbican Enclosure

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Mino-Kaneyama Castle Part1”
Back to “Mino-Kaneyama Castle Part2”

143.Mino-Kaneyama Castle Part2

The castle ruins in a natural park

Features

Berbican Enclosure with well remaining Stone Walls

Today, the ruins of Mino-Kaneyama Castle have been well developed as part of a natural park though no castle buildings remain. Many people visit the park to relax. If you visit there by car, you can park at the Berbican Enclosure on the mid slope of the mountain. Don’t forget to see the stone walls around the enclosure as they are only walls still intact in this castle. You will understand its reason once you climb up to the Main Enclosure.

The imaginary drawing of the whole Mino-Kaneyama Castle, exhibited by Sengoku Yamashiro Museum

the map around the castle

The imaginary drawing of the Barbican Enclosure in the past, from the signboard at the site
The present Barbican Enclosure
The remaining stone walls of the Barbican Enclosure

Third Enclosure with trace of Castle destroyed

From the parking lot, you can first enter the Third Enclosure where you will see its stone walls partially collapsed. This is the trace of the castle being intentionally destroyed. No one would be able to build another castle on it and it could also be the sign that the castle had been abandoned. This enclosure has another entrance on the opposite side, which leads to the castle town, however, the route can’t be used now.

The entrance to the Third Enclosure
The imaginary drawing of the Third Enclosure in the past, from the signboard at the site
The present Third Enclosure (gate ruins)
The partially destroyed stone walls
The other gate ruins

You can also see the partially remaining stone walls of the Second Enclosure above the Third Enclosure.

The imaginary drawing of the Second Enclosure in the past, from the signboard at the site
The partially remaining stone walls of the Second Enclosure, seen from the Third Enclosure
The present Second Enclosure

Masugata, Important point for Defense

You can go further to the Belt Enclosure surrounding the Main Enclosure by passing the Second Enclosure. You will see many collapsed stones from past stone walls on the way there.

Going to the Belt Enclosure
The slopes of the Belt Enclosure, seen from the Second Enclosure
Many collapsed stones on the way

The Belt Enclosure had a square defensive entrance called Masugata, with the Main Gate standing in front of it. That meant it was an important point for the castle to protect. You can now see the ruins of it with the front stone steps and some stone walls surrounding the square space. The ruins of the Second Gate are on the right side of the space and lead to the Main Enclosure.

The imaginary drawing of the Masugata Entrance in the past, from the signboard at the site
The present Masugata Entrance
The ruins of the Second Gate

To be continued in “Mino-Kaneyama Castle Part3”
Back to “Mino-Kaneyama Castle Part1”