A castle which has both an advanced defense system and a mysterious history
Location and History
Simple but Popular Castle
Sugiyama Castle was located in Hiki District, what is now in the western part of Saitama Prefecture. The ruins of the castle recently became popular among history fans in Japan. The ruins are not so large and have no buildings and no stone walls. The ruins are all made of soil. In addition, it is also uncertain when and who built and used the castle. There are no clear records about the castle at all. So, what did the castle become famous for? The answer is that the castle had a surprisingly artful defense system for such a small local castle.
The location of the castle
“Sugiyama Castle Problem”
Historians have tried for a long time to find out when and who built Sugiyama Castle. However, their conclusions became more complicated. When the excavation team researched the castle ruins, they thought the castle was built and used around early 16th Century based on the unearthed relics. The Uesugi Clan, which governed the Kanto Region, had internal conflicts in the area around the castle at that time. The team speculates the clan built the castle. On the other hand, the researchers who study the layout of castles argue that the complex defense systems like Sugiyama Castle should have appeared later, such as in the late 16th Century. They think the Hojo Clan, which governed the Kanto Region after the Uesugi Clan, must have built such an advanced defense system. People call this discussion “Sugiyama Castle Problem”. The problem might even make the castle more popular.
The family crest of the Uesugi Clan called the Uesugi Bamboo Grass (licensed by Mukai via Wikimedia Commons)The portrait of Ujityasu Hojo, the lord of the clan in the 16th Century, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
“Textbook for Building Castles”
Sugiyama Castle was built on a hill. The hill measured 42m high from the base. The castle had 10 enclosures, including one in the center of the castle. The enclosures spread into three directions in the south, north and east. These enclosures were built to protect the center of the castle called the Main Enclosure. The west of the castle was a steep cliff with a river flowing below, which was a natural hazard. All the enclosures were surrounded by earthen walls and dry moats and connected by earthen or wooden bridges. The most important feature of its defense system was that all the entrances of the enclosures were protected by the frank attacks or Yokoya. Protection was provided by the clever layout of the L-shaped earthen walls and the route to the enclosures. The design of the castle was highly sophisticated, so it is now often called “a textbook for building castles”.
The miniature model of the castle ruins, exhibited in the Ranzan Town Office
Castle may be Temporary
The excavation found that Sugiyama Castle didn’t have permanent buildings such as halls, turrets, and gates. It probably only had temporary buildings like huts and fences. It was also found that the castle was used for a short time because it was not modified before it was destroyed by fire. This means that the castle could have been built for a single purpose or battle. There were many other castles around Sugiyama Castle, which were also built probably for a single purpose. Many of these castles, such as Ogura Castle, had distinct features. Many battles happened around this area in the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. It is thought that the warlords in this area built residential castles as well as single-use castles to survive. Even though Sugiyama Castle may have been one of the latter, it had a surprisingly technical defense system.
The whole view of Sugiyama Castle Ruins, from the signboard at the Ranzan Town OfficeThe ruins of Ogura Castle, this castle has stone walls which were rare in the Kanto Region when it was built
The castle of the Chiba Clan, an illustrious clan in Kanto Region
Location and History
Chiba Clan built it in 15th Century
Motosakura Castle was a large castle which was located in Shimosa Province (what is now the northern part of Chiba Prefecture). A warlord, Suketane from the Chiba Clan, first built the castle at latest in 1484 on a hilly area called Masakado-yama. The area was surrounded by Inba-numa Lake, and only open to the Shimosa Road on flat land in the southern direction. This meant the area was defensive and convenient for water and land transport.
The map around the castle in the early Meiji Era, Inba-numa Lake was still near the castle
The Chiba Clan’s family crest, Gessei or Moon and Star (licensed by Los688 via Wikimedia Commons)
Central portion, Inner Compounds.
When the castle was first built, the warlords in the Kanto Region were split into two groups, the western group and the eastern group. The western group was led by the shogunal deputy for the Kanto Region, the Uesugi Clan, and the eastern group was led by the head of the Kanto government in Koga, the Ashikaga Clan. The Chiba Clan was included in the eastern group and the Motosakura Castle was also an important site which connected Koga in Shimosa Province to the other provinces in Boso Peninsula inside the group. The clan built several enclosures in the central portion of the castle called the Inner Compounds.
The location of the castle
The Main Enclosure called Shiro-yama had the Main Hall for the lord of the castle. The hall had a set of two formal buildings called Shuden and Kaisho, because the clan was the governor of the province. The Okuno-yama enclosure, which had the Myoken Shrine where the clan went for worship, is next to the main enclosure on the west. The Okuno-yama enclosure was connected to the Main Enclosure by a wooden bridge . The next one is the Kura-ato Enclosure which had warehouses. The westmost one is the Settei-yama Enclosure which was used for guesthouses. In addition to these enclosures, the Higashi-yama Enclosure was set to protect them, and the Tokoji-byo Enclosure, which had temples, faced Inba-numa Lake.
The enclosures of the Inner Compound (from the signboard at the site)
Outer Compounds were built against Satomi Clan
In the middle of the 16th Century, the situation of the Kanto Region changed. The Hojo Clan captured most of the region, then the Chiba Clan decided to support Hojo by adopting a son from them. However, the Satomi Clan in Boso Peninsula (the south of Honsakura Castle) was against Hojo. As a result, the Chiba Clan had to reinforce the defense of the castle on the south.
The location of Motosakura Castle and the home base of the Satomi Clan
The clan built large enclosures outside the Inner Compounds, called the Outer Compounds such as Araue, Negoya, and Mukai-Negoya. They were surrounded by thick earthen walls and had the sticking out defensive positions called Umadashi, which were built using Hojo’s techniques. In addition, the Settai-yama Enclosure became the pivot of the defense because it was the connecting point between the Inner Compounds and the Outer Compounds. The range of the castle finally reached 39,000 square meters.
The whole image of the castle including the Outer Compound (from the signboard at the site)
However, The Chiba Clan was fired by the ruler Hieyoshi Toyotomi in 1590, as their master Hojo Clan was also defeated by Hideyoshi. After that, Motosakura Castle was sometimes used by several clans. The castle was finally abandoned in 1615.
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, ownd by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
米沢城は、山形県南部の米沢盆地に位置していました。城は平地の上で三重の堀に囲まれていました。この城は最初は大江氏によって築かれたと言われていますが、戦国時代の伊達氏の居城として有名です。最終的には、この城は越後国（現在の新潟県）から移ってきた上杉氏の所有となりました。 Yonezawa Castle was located on the Yonezawa Basin in the southern part of Yamagata Pref. It was surrounded by water moats tripled on a plane area. It is said that the Ohe clan first built the castle, but it is famous for the Date clan’s home in the Warring States Period. Finally, the castle belonged to the Uesugi clan that transferred from Echigo Province (now Niigata Pref.).
出羽国米沢城絵図部分、江戸時代～Part of the illustration of Yonezawa Castle in Dewa Province, in the Edo Period（出典：国立公文書館）
上杉氏は最初、豊臣氏の統治の下では１２０万石を領有していました。江戸時代になって、上杉氏の米沢藩の石高は１５万石まで減少しました。徳川幕府により当初の８分の１まで減らされたのは、関ヶ原の戦いでの敗戦と、相続の不手際によるものでした。藩は困窮に陥りました。藩士の数を１２０万石の時のままにしていたからです。江戸中期までに藩士の俸禄は半分にカットされました。農民の数は減り続け、人々の間には浪費をし、怠ける風潮が蔓延しました。 Uesugi clan first earned a fief of 1.2 million koku of rice during the Toyotomi clan’s governance. In the Edo Period, the earning of Yonezawa Domain of the clan decreased to 0.15 million koku. One eighth of the first by the Tokugawa Shogunate was due to the defeat in the Battle of Sekigahara and the mismanagement of inheritance. They were reduced to poverty because they had kept the number of warriors to 1.2 million koku. By mid Edo Period, warriors’ salaries were cut in half. The population of farmers was decreasing, people became lazy just using money.
米沢藩の１５万石の領地～Yonezawa Domain’s territory of 0.15 million koku of rice（licensed by BigBang19 via Wikimedia Commons）
１７６７年に上杉鷹山が米沢藩の１０代目の藩主として登場しました。彼は藩の改革を開始しました。中国古代の伝説上の聖人を理想としながらも、様々な実用的な学問を基にした政策を推し進めたのです。彼自身は倹約しましたが、農業、工芸、繊維業といった産業を振興しました。彼はまた有名な学者を招き、女性を含む民衆の教育を進めました。一定の条件が整えば、子供や高齢者には褒賞金も支給されたのです。 Yozan Uesugi rose as the 10th lord of Yonezawa Domain in 1767. He started the innovation of the domain, pursuing the governance of ancient legendary Chinese saints, and promoted his policies based on mixed practical learning. He saved expense for himself, but increased industries in the domain such as agriculture, crafts and textile. He also let people including women educated by invited famous scholars. Children and elders were provided a bonus under certain regulation.
上杉鷹山肖像画、上杉神社蔵～The portrait of Yozan Uesugi, owned by Uesugi Shrine（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Domain）
鷹山は、「富国安民」という、国が豊かになり、人々が安心して暮らせる状態の実現を目指しました。彼の統治は当時からよく知られていたのですが、明治時代の指導者たちでさえ米沢の産業の振興ぶりに驚いているほどです。例えば、帝人は米沢が発祥の繊維会社です。第３５代アメリカ大統領のジョン・Ｆ・ケネディも鷹山を尊敬していたと言われています。ケネディの娘、キャロラインは米国大使として２０１４年に米沢市を訪問し、そのことを述べています。
Yozan aimed to reach the state of national wealth and people living in peace called “Fukoku-Anmin”. While his governance got well-known from that time, leaders in the Meiji Era were still surprised the rise in industry in Yonezawa. For example, Teijin is a textile company that comes from this city. It is said that even the 35th U.S. president John F. Kennedy respected Yozan. His daughter Caroline Kennedy, the U.S. ambassador to Japan, visited Yonezawa City in 2014 and mentioned that.
米国５０セント硬貨に刻まれたケネディの横顔～Kenedy’s profile on a U.S. fifty cent peace（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
特徴～Features
現在、本丸の跡地が上杉神社を含む松が岬公園として残っています。そこには城の建物はありませんし、堀には高い石垣もありませんので、地味な印象を受けるかもしれません。その替わりにこの地には多くの歴史的文化的遺産があります。 Now, the ruins of the main enclosure “Honmaru” remain as Matsugasaki Park including Uesugi Shrine. They may have a quiet impression because there is no buildings for castle and the moat don’t have high stone walls. Instead, the site has many historical and cultural properties.
本丸跡入口～The entrance of Honmaru ruins
そのうちの一つは上杉氏の遺産です。米沢市上杉博物館では、洛中洛外図屏風（上杉本）を見ることができます。この屏風は有力な戦国大名織田信長から、上杉氏の始祖である上杉謙信に送られたものです。上杉神社の宝物館、稽照殿では謙信など上杉氏の実物の甲冑も見ることができます。
One of them is about Uesugi clan’s heritage. You can see the Folding Screens of Scenes in and around Kyoto (Uesugi Version) at Yonezawa City Uesugi Museum. They were sent to Kenshin Uesugi, the founder of the clan by a great warlord Nobunaga Oda. You can also see original armors of the clan such as Kenshin at Keishoden Museum of Uesugi shrine.
米沢市上杉博物館～Yonezawa City Uesugi Museum（licensed by contri via Wikimedia Commons） 「洛中洛外図屏風」左隻、米沢市上杉博物館蔵～The left wing of the Folding Screens of Scenes in and around Kyoto (Uesugi Version), owned by Yonezawa City Uesugi Museum（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）左隻に描かれた足利将軍邸、右上の行列にいる貴人は上杉謙信と言われている～The palace of Ashikaga shogun on the left wing, it is said that the noble in the parade at the upper right corner is Kenshin Uesugi.
もう一つの見ものは上杉鷹山に関するものです。上杉博物館では彼の考えや治績について学ぶことができます。民衆を指導するための彼の自筆書簡を見ることもできます。そして、本丸には謙信を祀った祠堂の跡があります。ここは城の中で一番高く、最も重要な地点でした。鷹山は、飢饉のときここで人々の繁栄のために祈りを捧げたといいます。他には本丸の手前に鷹山が祭られている松が岬神社があります。そこには鷹山の銅像と、キャロライン訪問の記念碑があります。 Another attraction is about Yozan Uesugi. You can learn about his ideas and governance in the Uesugi Museum. His autograph letters that instructed people can also been seen there. There is the ruins of the ancestral hall for Kenshin in Honmaru, which was the highest ,most important spot in the castle. This is where Yozan pray for people’s prosperity during famines. There is also Matsugasaki Shrine in front of Honmaru, where Yozan is enshrined. You can see the statue of Yozan, and the monument of Caroline’s visit.
本丸の祠堂跡～The ruins of the ancestral hall at Honmaru松が岬神社にある上杉鷹山銅像～The statue of Yozan Uesugi at Matsugasaki Shrine（taken by バカボン君 from photoAC）キャロライン・ケネディ駐日米国大使訪問の記念碑～The monument of the visit of the U.S. ambassador to Japan, Caroline Kennedy
その後～Later Life
明治維新後、米沢城は１８７４年に松が岬公園となりました。城の建物は撤去され、代わりに公園内に上杉神社が設立されました。１９１９年の米沢大火により神社は焼けてしまい、現在の神社の社殿は１９２３年に再建されたものです。
After the Meiji Restoration, Yonezawa Castle was turned into Matsugasaki Park in 1874. The buildings of the castle were demolished and Uesugi Shrine was established in the park instead. The 1919 Yonezawa Great Fire burned down the shrine. The present shrine buildings were rebuilt in 1923.
上杉神社社殿～Uesugi Shrine buildings
私の感想～My Impression
米沢城が地味な印象なのは、米沢藩の困窮からなのか、それともそれが方針だったのでしょうか。いずれにせよ、城がシンプルであるほど、上杉鷹山のメッセージが際立つような気がします。上杉神社にはもう一体の彼の銅像とともに、最も有名な格言を刻む石碑があります。「なせば成る」と。 the reason why the castle has a simple impression is because it comes from poverty or policy of Yonezawa Domain. Anyway, I think that the more simple the castle is, the clearer the message from Yozan Uesugi is. The monument of his most famous message is with his other statue in Uesugi Shrine. It’s “Naseba-Naru” which means “Where there is a will, there is a way.”
上杉神社にある上杉鷹山銅像と格言の石碑～The statue of Yozan Uesugi and the monument of his message
ここに行くには～How to get There
車で行く場合：東北中央自動車道米沢八幡原ＩＣ、米沢中央ＩＣ、または米沢北ＩＣから１０～１５分かかります。城跡の周りにいくつか駐車場があります。 米沢駅からバスで行く場合：米沢駅西口バスターミナルから、米沢市街地循環バス（循環右回り）または山交バス（白布温泉行き）に乗り、上杉神社前バス停で降りてください。 東京から米沢駅まで：山形新幹線に乗ってください。 If you want to go there by car: It takes about 10 to 15 minutes from the Yonezawa-Hachimanpara IC, Yonezawa-Chuo IC or Yonezawa-Kita IC on Tohoku-Chuo Expressway. There are several parking lots around the ruins. If you want to go there by bus from Yonezawa station: Take the Yonezawa citizen bus (city area circulation route-clockwise) or the Yamako bus bound for Shirabu-Onsen at the Yonezawa station west entrance bus terminal, and take off at the Uesugi-Jinja-Mae bus stop. From Tokyo to Yonezawa st.: Take the Yamagata Shinkansen super express.
