Today, the ruins of Goryokaku have been designated as a National Special Historic Site and are one of the most popular tourist spots in Hakodate City. They are also famous for cherry blossoms. There are two entrances after crossing the bridges over the water moats, which are two of the three original entry ways. People usually enter the front entrance which has a good view.
The aerial photo around the castle
The front entranceThe Back Gate as the second entranceThe original third entrance doesn’t have its bridge now
You need to go across two bridges to reach the front gate. The first bridge goes to the only ravelin before the second one for the gate. Gorgeous stone walls incorporating the Hanedashi system surround the area because it was also the original front side.
The First Bridgethe ravelinThe stone walls of the ravelin which has the Hanedashi systemThe Second BridgeThe front gate of the ruins
After going through the gate, you can see a “blindfold” wall called Mikakushi-rui, which made sure visitors could not see inside and the defenders could protect the castle from enemies attacks easily. There are three behind the original entrances.
Unique blindfold walls
The blindfold wall behind the front gateThe blindfold wall behind the back gateThe blindfold wall for the third gate ruins also remains
Restored Hakodate Magistrate’s Office
If you go around the wall, you will see the restored Hakodate Magistrate’s Office building in the center. Actually, one third of it was restored using the original methods in 2010 based on old photos, remaining documents, and excavation discoveries. The other two thirds are flatly exhibited on the ground.
The restored Hakodate Magistrate’s Office buildingThe rest of the original office is flatly exhibited
You can enter the building to see what it was like in the past. About half of its interior is a large hall which was used for official ceremonies and the magistrate’s working room. The rest is the officers’ rooms which exhibit the history of the office and Gryokaku. An interesting point is three empty jars buried under the entrance step, which were unearthed in the excavation. Their purpose is unknown, but some speculate they were used to make a resonant sound when people walked on the step.
The large hallThe magistrate’s working roomAn officers’ room which is now used for exhibitionsThe three excavated empty jars
Walking around Bastions
You can also climb up or down or walk around the five large-scale bastions basically made of soil. In fact, it is uncertain if they had cannons inside or on the bastions from the first stage of Goryokaku. This may be one of the reasons that one of the bastions has a slope the escaping force built and used to carry cannons to the top of it. There are also ruins of a powder magazine inside another bastion, which are thought to have been built by the force as well.
The edge of a bastionThe slope which was used to carry cannons to the top of the bastionThe ruins of a powder magazine
There is a warehouse, which is the only remaining original building of Goryokaku, next to the administrative office and the rest house, which are built like original warehouses. The remaining one is only open to the public during certain periods. Two barrels of a gun are exhibited beside these buildings. One of them belonged to the Choyo which was sunk by the escaping force in the Battle of Hakodate, but pulled from the sea later. The other one was used by the force in another position other than Goryokaku in the battle.
The remaining warehouseThe administrative office and the rest house looking like original buildingsThe barrel of a gun which belonged to the ChoyoThe barrel of a gun which was used in another position of the escaping forceThe barrel of a gun which was used in another position of
If you drive to the ruins of Ichinomiya Castle, you will go through the route on the narrow area sandwiched by Akui-gawa River and mountains. You can see that it is a good location for defending the castle. The entrance of the trail to the ruins is opposite of the Ichinomiya Shrine. You will need to climb to the top of the 144m high mountain, but the trail is well developed with stone steps.
The location map at the site, adding English names
The map around the castle
The entrance of the trailThe well-developed trail with stone steps
After climbing for a while, you will see a Vertical Moat or Tate-bori on the slope along the trail to prevent enemies from attacking. If you go to the branch nearby, you can see the ruins of the Warehouses.
The Vertical MoatThe ruins of the Warehouses (licensed by ブレイズマン via Wikimedia Commons)
Defense System using Natural Terrain
Going back to the main trail, you will reach an artificial steep cliff called Kiri-gishi under several enclosures. You can also see a fountain at the foot of the cliff. You will need to climb a zigzagged trail on the cliff to go further.
The artificial steep cliffThe fountain under the cliffClimbing on the cliff
Even after climbing, you will still be under the bottom of an artificial valley called Hori-kiri. Enemies could have been counterattacked from the enclosures above. The valley divides the main portion of the castle and the Saizo-maru Enclosure. If you turn left at the valley, you will reach the Saizo-maru Enclosure. This enclosure is also called the Third Enclosure. “Saizo” originates from the name of the retainer who was responsible for the enclosure.
Being under the bottom of the valley even after climbingThe entrance of Saizo-maru EnclosureThe inside of Saizo-maru Enclosure
Going to Center of Castle
If you turn right at the valley, you will reach the ruins of the gate for the main portion which have two main enclosures – the Myojin-maru Enclosure and the Main Enclosure. These enclosures are connected by a long and narrow enclosure called the Belt Enclosure or Koshi-guruwa
The ruins of the gate for the main portionThe Belt Enclosure
If you turn right again at the gate ruins, you will be in the Myojin-maru Enclosure. This enclosure is also called the Second Enclosure and the spot where the ruins of the building with veranda, maybe for sightseeing, was found. You can even now see a good view of the center of Tokushima Prefecture to the east.
The entrance of Myojin-maru EnclosureThe inside of Myojin-maru EnclosureA view from Myojin-maru Enclosure
Great Stone Walls of Main Enclosure
If you go back to the gate ruins and go left from the front of it, you will finally reach the Main Enclosure on the top of the mountain. You may be surprised to suddenly see the great stone walls which were built by the Hachisuka Clan. The stone walls of this castle are very rare and beautiful because they were piled up using stones with a dark-green striped pattern called chlorite-schist. These stones are also known as Green Stones of Awa. The same pattern of stone walls can also be seen at Tokushima Castle that the Hachisuka Clan built after they used Ichinomiya Castle.
The stone walls of the Main EnclosureThey were built using chlorite-schistThe stone walls of Tokushima Castle
There is only the small building of Wakamiya Shrine. The stone foundations of the Main Hall for the lord were found recently, which were also built by the Hachisuka Clan. You can also see a good view of the area around, including Akui-gawa River.
The inside of the Main EnclosureThe small building of Wakamiya ShrineA view from the Main Enclosure
西の都「大宰府」の守護神
The guardian of the western capital “Dazaifu”
立地と歴史～Location and History
古代山城の一つ～One of Ancient Mountain Castles
大野城は西日本にあった古代山城の一つです。６６３年の朝鮮での白村江の戦いの後、朝廷によって築かれました。日本は百済を助けようとしますが、唐と新羅の連合軍に敗れてしまいます。天智天皇は、連合軍による日本侵攻を恐れました。そして彼は百済からの亡命者の助けを借りてこれらの城の建設を命じたのです。そのために「朝鮮式山城」とも呼ばれています。 Ono Castle was one of ancient mountain castles in western Japan. It was built by the Imperial Court after the Battle of Baekgang, Korea in 663. Japan tried to help Baekje, but was beaten by the ally of Tang and Silla. Emperor Tenchi was scared of invasion by the ally, so he ordered the construction of these castles with the help of the refugees from Baekje. That’s why these castles are also called “Korean style mountain castles”.
白村江の戦いの図～The map about the Battle of Baekgang（licensed by Samhanin via Wikimedia Commons）
これら古代山城は、姫路城、大阪城、名古屋城といった後の日本の典型的な城とは随分見かけが異なっていました。これらの城の主たる構造物は、山の頂を囲む土塁、石垣、貯水池、関門による外郭だったからです。城の内部には官庁、兵舎、倉庫のための建物があったようです。そのため、緊急事態時には平地から避難してきて、敵の侵入を防ぎながら生活と行政を続けられるようになっていました。 These ancient mountain castles looked very different from the typical castles built later in Japan, like Himeji, Osaka, and Nagoya castles, because their main structures were an outline surrounding the top of the mountain with earthen and stone walls, water reservoirs, and entrance gates. There seemed to be buildings for offices, barracks, and warehouses inside these castles, so in case of an emergency, people could escape from plain areas, and continue to live and govern preventing enemies’ invasion.
古代山城の一つ、鬼ノ城での復元例～An example of the restoration for Kino-Jo, one of the ancient mountain castles
大宰府を守る城～Castle protecting Dazaifu
大野城は、それらの中で間違いなく最重要の古代山城でした。「大宰府」と呼ばれた古代日本の地方行政府の背後にある「四王寺山」の上に立地していたからです。大宰府は通常、九州地方を統治していましたが、中国や朝鮮に近いため、国家の外交や防衛にかかわる重要な任務にも携わっていました。その庁舎や街並みは、日本の首都に準じて作られていました。 Ono Castle was definitely the most important ancient mountain castle among them, as it was located on a mountain called “Shioji-yama”, behind the ancient Japanese local government, “Dazaifu”. Dazaifu basically governed the area of Kyushu Region, but it also had very important duties, like taking care of Japan’s diplomacy and defense because it is located near China and Korea. The government office and town were built similar to the capital of Japan.
大宰府跡と四王寺山～The ruins of Dazaifu and Mt. Shioji-yama大宰府政庁の模型～The miniature model of the Dazaifu office building（大宰府展示館～Dazaifu Site Exhibition Hall）
更に四王寺山は山城にもっともふさわしい山でした。その峰が平らな中心部を取り囲んでいるのです。峰を外郭にすることができ、建物を中心部に作ればよいのですが、まだ不十分でした。大量の労働力投入と、百済からの技術者の助けにより、版築という方式で峰に沿って土塁を築き、更には石垣を築き谷を埋めました。外郭の総延長は８．４ｋｍにも及びました。 In addition, Shioji-yama mountain was the most suitable for the mountain castle. Its ridge rounds the flat center. The ridge could be the outline, and buildings could be built at the center, but it was not enough. People made great efforts to build earthen walls along the ridge using a method called Rammed earth, and further build stone walls to fill valleys with the help of the technicians from Beakje. The overall length of the outline reached 8.4km.
四王寺山の模型～The miniature model of Mt. Shioji-yama（大宰府展示館～Dazaifu Site Exhibition Hall）
敵は来なかった～Enemy didn’t come
幸いにも連合軍は日本を攻撃しませんでした。日本の古書である「日本書紀」「続日本紀」には、大野城は６６５年に築かれ、６９８年に修繕されたとあります。しかしながら、いつしか廃城となってしまったようです。 Fortunately, the ally did not attack Japan. Japanese old history books such as “Nihon-shoki” and “Shoku-nihongi” say that the castle was built in 665, and repaired in 698. However, it seemed to have been abandoned at some point.
城の位置～The location of the castle
特徴～Features
現在、大野城の遺跡は主に外郭に沿って広がっています。そのため全てを見るにはかなりの時間がかかります。今回は、短時間で代表的な遺跡を見て回れるよう２つの地区をご紹介します。 Now, the ruins of Ono Castle are spread mainly along the outline, so it takes a lot of time to see all of them. This time, I will describe two areas where you can see representative ones in a short time.
城周辺の地図～The map around the castle
城周辺の起伏地図～The relief map around the castle
焼米ヶ原周辺地区～Around Yakigomegahara area
車であれば大宰府天満宮の前から四王寺林道を通って、四王寺山に至ります。そして焼米ヶ原駐車場に車を止められます。そこから歩いていくつかの遺跡を見ることができます。 You can drive from the front of Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine up to Shioji-yama mountain through the Shioji forest road. Then, you will reach and park at Yakigomehara parking lot. From the parking, you can walk around several ruins.
・土塁線 ここは外郭の南側に当たり、部分的に二重になっています。城の中では重要な地点だったのでしょう。南の方向には街並みがよく見えます。 ・The earthen walls line This is the southern part of the outline, and was partly built doubly. It could be an important spot for the castle. You can have a good view of the town on the south.
土塁線～The earthen walls line街並みの景色～A view of the town
・増長天礎石群 ここは建物の遺跡群のうちの一つです。４つの建物の礎石群が外郭に沿って残っています。今までに７０以上の建物の跡が山の上に見つかっています。そのうちの多くは倉庫として使われたと考えられています。 ・Zochoten foundation stone group It is one of the groups for ruins of buildings. The foundation stones for four buildings remain along the outline. So far, over 70 ruins of buildings were found on the mountain. Many of them are thought to have been used as warehouses.
増長天礎石群～Zochoten foundation stone group
・大宰府口城門跡 これまでに見つかっている９つの城門の中では最大のものです。発掘の成果によれば、この城門は３回作りかえられているとのことです。城の正門であったのかもしれません。 ・Dazaifu route Castle Gate Ruins They are the largest castle gate ruins out of the nine castle gate ruins previously found in the castle. The excavation team found out that the gate was replaced three times. It might have been the front gate of the castle.
大宰府口城門跡～Dazaifu route Castle Gate Ruins（licensed by 小池隆 via Wikimedia Commons）
北部周辺地区～Around the northern area
山の中心の方に行き、県民の森センター前の交差点で右折して進むと、百閒石垣に着きます。道のかたわらに小さな駐車スペースがあります。 You can drive to the center of the mountain, then turn to the right at the intersection in front of Kenminnomori Center, and you will reach Hyakken stone walls. There is a small parking lot beside them.
百閒石垣を見上げる～Looking up Hyakken stone walls百閒石垣から道路を見下ろす～Looking down the road from Hyakken stone walls
・百閒石垣 この城の中では最大の石垣で、全長は約１８０ｍあります(間は日本の古い長さの単位で１間は約１．８ｍ)。この周辺は、城の北の入口に当たり、とても重要とされていました。この石垣は、基礎となる岩の上に、切り出した自然石を注意深く積んでできています。排水のための隙間もいくつか設けられています。朝鮮にはこれと似た山城の遺跡があり、朝鮮から来た技術者が工事を手伝った証拠とされています。 ・Hyakken stone walls They are the largest ones among the castle, which are about 180m across (Hyakken means 100 ken, ken is an old unit of length in Japan, 1 ken is about 1.8m.) and about 8m high. The area around was the northern entrance of the castle, and was considered very important. The stone walls were piled with chopped natural stones on the base rock very carefully. They also have some gaps that can drain water. There are similar stone walls of mountain castle ruins in Korea. That’s because technicians from Korea helped with the construction.
百閒石垣～Hyakken stone walls石垣に近づきます～Getting closer to the stone walls石垣までの坂はかなり急です～The slope to the stone walls is steep
その後～Later History
城の設立から約１世紀後、７７４年に城跡の上に四天王寺が創建されました。その当時新羅が日本を呪っていると言われていたため、それに対抗する祈りをこの寺で行ったのです。現在の山の名前はこの寺を由来としています。また「増長天」という建物の遺跡名は四天王のうちの一神を指します。戦国時代には山の中腹に岩屋城が築かれました。江戸時代には人々は多くの石仏を作り、信仰していました。最終的には城跡は１９５３年に国の史跡に指定されます。 About one century after the foundation of the castle, the Four Devas or Shitennoji Temple was founded on the castle ruins in 774. The temple was for praying against Silla that was said to have cursed Japan. The mountain became a castle for praying. The present name of the mountain comes from the temple. The name of the building ruins “Zochoten” is one of the four Devas. In the Warring States or Sengoku Period, Iwaya Castle was built on the mid-slope of the mountain. In the Edo Period, people made a lot of stone figures of the Buddha and prayed them. The ruins were finally designated as a National Historic Site in 1953.
石仏のうちの一体～One of the stone figures of the Buddha（taken by ヘンリー３世 from photoAC）
私の感想～My Impression
少なくとも百閒石垣は見ていただきたいです。１３５０年以上のもの間、このような石垣が生き残ってきたことに驚きを感じます。実際にご覧いただければ、この石垣がまだまだ頑丈であることがわかると思います。当方もいつの日か１日かけて城跡全体を歩いてみたいです。 I recommend you to at least see Hyakken stone walls. You can also see it’s surprising that such stone walls have survived for over 1350 years. The stone walls still look very strong when you look at them. I also think that I will spend a day walking around all the ruins sometime.
百閒石垣～Hyakken stone walls
ここに行くには～How to get There
城跡に行くには、車を使われることをお勧めします。 九州自動車道の大宰府ＩＣから約５ｋｍです。 I recommend you to go there by car. The ruins are around 5 km away from the Dazaifu IC on Kyushu Expressway.
リンク、参考情報～Links and References
・大野城跡、大野城市（Onojo City Website） ・大野城跡、宇美町（Umi Town Website） ・「マンガ版大野城物語」古代山城サミット実行委員会（Japanese Comic）
