108.Tsurugaoka Castle Part1

Tadakatsu Sakai, the founder of the Shonai Domain, was wondering which castle would be better for his home base, Tsurugaoka or Kamegaoka. His decision was to take Tsurugaoka because he thought Tsurugaoka would be the political center while Kamegaoka would be commercial with Sakata port and town.

Location and History

Shonai Domain has Political Tsurugaoka and Commercial Sakata

The Shonai area of Yamagata Prefecture is a granary on the Shonai Plain, which is known for Shonai Rice. There are two large cities, Tsuruoka and Sakata, in the area. When the area was governed by the Shonai Domain during the Edo Period, the cities shared their respective roles. Tsuruoka was political and Sakata was commercial. Turuagaoka Castle was located in the current Tsuruoka City, which was the home base of the domain, ruled by the Sakai Clan.

The ranges of Tsuruoka and Sakata Cities and the location of the castle

The castle was originally called Daihoji Castle which was first built by a local lord, the Muto Clan, sometime in the early Middle Ages. It was one of their several castles, and its size was still small. As time passed by, the area was targeted by greater warlords from outside, such as the Uesugi and Mogami Clans in the late 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. These clans battled over this area while the power of the Muto Clan declined. Daihoji Castle and Tozenji Castle, which was located in the current Sakata City, were improved by them. In the early 17th Century when the Tokugawa Shogunate was established by Ieyasu Tokugawa, the Shonai area was governed by Yoshimitsu Mogami, based in Yamagata Castle. He renamed Daihoji Castle to Tsurugaoka (meaning the Hill of Cranes) and Tozenji Castle to Kamegaoka (meaning the Hill of Turtles). Cranes and turtles (and Pine trees) have been lucky words for Japanese people because they believed these animals had longer lives than humans. He did it after he had heard that a big turtle was found at the seaside near Tozenji Castle. However, the Mogami Clan was banished by the shogunate in 1622 due to their internal troubles after Yoshimitu died.

Yoshiaki Mogami from Battle of Hasedo Standing Screen (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Yamagata Castle

The territory of the Mogami Clan was apportioned to several other lords, one of which, the Shonai area was given to Tadakatsu Sakai as the founder of the Shonai Domain. He was a grandchild of Tadatsugu Sakai, known as One of the Four Generals Serving Ieyasu Tokugawa. That’s why the Sakai Clan had been a senior vassal of the shogun and had loyalty to the shogunate. Tadakatsu was wondering which castle would be better for his home base, Tsurugaoka or Kamegaoka. In terms of defense, Kamegaoka was better. However, his decision was to take Tsurugaoka because he thought Tsurugaoka would be the political center while Kamegaoka would be commercial with Sakata port and town.

The portrait of Tadakatsu Sakai, owned by Chido Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Originally, Tsurugaoka Castle was said to have had only the Main and Second Enclosures made of soil, with simple residences, surrounded by double water moats, on a plain land. It would be too small for the Sakai Clan’s home base and not defensive when a battle happened there. So, Tadakatsu started to improve the castle by building the large Third Enclosure and the castle town outside. The Main Hall for the lord was also built in the Main Enclosure. The Main and Second Enclosures had five entrances, which were protected by the Masugata system or the Umadashi system which the Tokugawa relatives had used to build. The Masugata refers to a square defensive space inside the gate and the Umadashi is a small round enclosure which sticks out from the gate. On the other hand, the castle had few stone walls, still mostly made of soil, and had no Main Tower unlike other castles of the Tokugawa relatives. A two-level turret was built on a corner of the Main Enclosure as a substitute of the tower. Overall, the castle can be seen as a mixing of the legacy of the area and the Tokugawa method.

The reconstruction of Tsurugaoka Castle from the signboard at the site, adding colored circles, the Umadashi systems in the red circles and the Masugata systems in the blue circles
The miniature model of the castle, seen from the same direction as above (the east), exhibited by Chido Museum
The main enclosure in the miniature model, seen from the west, the substitute for the Main Tower is in the red circle

Deadlock and Reform of Government

The early government of the Shonai Domain was actually unstable. Tadakatsu’s tax policy was harsh because he wanted to have more income to contribute to the shogunate. However, the Tohoku Region including the Shonai area often suffered damage from cold weather, droughts, and floods. Despite these variable situations, the domain asked the farmers to pay the same amount of taxes every year. That resulted in many farmers fleeing the area, having huge debt, and even selling their families, leaving the area devastated.

A wealthy merchant of Sakata town, Mitsuoka Honma saved the domain during the late 18th Century. Ocean voyages were prohibited by the shogunate due to its policy of closing the country, but coastal sailing in small crafts became a major mean of transportation. Sakata port was one of the transport hubs, which made the town and merchants so rich. That’s why the domain asked Mitsuoka for help to solve its financial problems. He provided not only enormous tax money but also was in charge of financial matters of the domain. The domain changed the ways to treat the farmers flexibly as well. It also opened the domain school called Chidokan in 1805 to educate the domain retainers. The situation was getting better and the people in the area became united.

The miniature model of a large Japanese junk called Benzai-sen, which was used for the coastal sailing, exhibited by Chido Museum
The tablet of Chidokan domain school, which was used during the Edo Period

Reform is proven during End of Edo Period

The result of the reform was proven in 1840 when the shogunate ordered the Shonai Domain to move to another and the Matsudaira Clan would be expected to come from the Kawagoe Domain. The movement of the people including farmers in the Shonai Domain against the shogunate’s decision occurred. They urged the shogunate that they wanted to be with the lords of the Sakai Clan. In fact, the movement might have been triggered by suggestions from some warriors, who didn’t want to move, that the next lord would be too strict. As a result, the order was canceled, which was a very rare case during the Edo Period.

The picture of people celebrating the cancelation of the movement in front of the castle, exhibited by the domain school

When the shogunate collapsed and the new government was established in 1868 during the Meiji Restoration, several domains in the Tohoku Region, including the Shonai Domain, made an alliance to be against the government. The Shonai’s troops led by a senior vassal, Genba Sakai were organized by warriors, farmers and even merchants, and were very strong. This was because the Honma Clan imported advanced foreign weapons and gave them to the troops. They repelled the Government Army and attacked other domains supporting the government instead. However, all of their allies were defeated or surrendered to the government before the last lord, Tadazumi Sakai also decided to surrender though his troops and Tsurugaoka Castle were intact.

Genba Sakai, in the early Meiji Era (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Tsurugaoka Castle Part2”

157.Hachimanyama Castle Part3

A dictator’s willful behavior is to be rewarded someday.

Features

Hidetsugu’s Residence Ruins at Foot

There are also the ruins of Hidetsugu’s residence at the foot of the mountain. If you are in the Barbican Enclosure, you can use the recently developed trail to go down to the ruins. Of course, you can also visit them from the city area. Hidetsugu’s residence was the elevated point of the warriors’ residential area. Its foundation, surrounded by huge stone walls, remains and looks so great. Some roof tiles covered with golden leaf were found at this site, which proved Hidetsugu lived there.

The map around the castle

The trail going down from the Barbican Enclosure
Hidetsugu’s Residence Ruins
The stone walls, using huge stones, remained
The trail from the city area

Later History

The life of Hachimanyama Castle was only 10 years while its former castle town have been prospering as a commercial city for a long time. The castle ruins have become a popular tourist spot since the cable car was first launched in 1962. On the other hand, because of the mountain’s steep terrain, landslides sometime happen which could destroy the ruins such as in 1967. Omi-Hachiman City, which owns the ruins, preserves and researches them, preparing the development of the place as a historical site.

The Hachimanbori Moats at the foot
The remaining stone walls on the mountain
A view from the Barbican Enclosure

My Impression

Was Hidetsugu only a victim of the incident in 1595? I think no. Yoshimitsu Mogami, a great lord at Yamagata Castle, lost his daughter who just reach Kyoto to be Hidetsugu’s wife because of the execution. He was very angry and decided to leave the Toyotomi Clan. Many other nobles and lords, who communicated with Hidetsugu, asked Ieyasu Tokugawa (who would become the final ruler after Hideyoshi’s death) for help in order to avoid punishment. Hideyoshi’s willful behavior resulted in the destruction of his clan including his beloved son, Hideyori, in the summer campaign of the siege of Osaka, attacked by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1615.

Yoshiaki Mogami from Battle of Hasedo Standing Screen (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Hideyori Toyotomi, owned by Yogenin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The summer campaign of the siege of Osaka folding screens, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about 30 minutes away from Gamo smart IC on the Meshin Expressway. There is a parking lot beside the cable car platform.
By public transportation, you can take the Omi-Tetsudo Bus bound for Chomeiji from JR Omi-Hachiman Station and get off at the Osugicho bus stop. It takes about 5 minutes to get there.
Or it may be a good idea to use a rental bicycle from the station.
To get to Omi-Hachiman Station from Tokyo: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Biwako Line at Maibara Station or Kyoto Station.

The parking lot beside the cable car platform

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Hachimanyama Castle Part1”
Back to “Hachimanyama Castle Part2”

10.山形城~Yamagata Castle

日本で5本の指に入るほど大きな城でした。
It was one of the five largest castles in Japan.

復元された二の丸東大手門~The restored East Main Entrance Gate at Ninomaru

立地と歴史~Location and History

山形城は山形県南部の山形盆地にありました。現在、この地域は県都である山形市として発展してきています。南北朝時代に、斯波氏が羽州(現在の山形県と秋田県に相当)探題として送られてきて、最初にこの城を築きました。初期の頃この城は、足利氏館のように一重の堀に囲まれた四角い土地の上に館があったと思われます。そして、戦国時代のころには、三重の堀に囲まれるまでに拡張されました。
Yamagata Castle was located in the Yamagata Basin in the eastern part of Yamagata Pref. Now, this area has been expanding up to Yamagata City as the prefectural capital. In the Period of Southern and Northern Courts, the Shiba clan was sent to this area as the local commissioner in Ushu (combining now Yamagata and Akita pref.), and first built the castle. The early castle seemed to be a hall on a square land surrounded by a single moat like the Ashikaga clan hall. Then, the castle was improved to be surrounded by triple moats in the Warring States Period.

出羽国最上山形城絵図部分、江戸時代~Part of the illustration of Mogami Yamagata Castle in Dewa Province, the Edo Period(出典:国立公文書館)

斯波氏の子孫である最上義光が、この城を日本で5指に入る大きな城として完成させました。彼は、南では伊達氏と、北では天童氏と、西では大宝寺氏と戦いました。義光は山形城を本拠地とし、そして戦いに備えるため約50もの支城を築きました。このうち最も有名なものは長谷堂城で、ここで1600年に最上氏と上杉氏が戦いました。
Shiba’s descendent, Yoshiaki Mogami, completed the castle making it one of the five largest castles in Japan. He fought with Date in the south, Tendo in the nouth, and Daihoji in the west. He set Yamagata Castle as his home, and built about 50 branch castles to prepare for battle. The most famous one was Hasedo Castle where Mogami and Uesugi battled in 1600.

長谷堂合戦図屏風に描かれた最上義光~Yoshiaki Mogami from Battle of Hasedo Standing Screen(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

結果として、義光は徳川幕府から57万石を与えられました。彼はその時点では日本で3番目の大大名となったのです。不幸なことに、後に最上氏はお家騒動により、幕府から改易されてしまいました。その後、いくつかの大名が城を維持するよう努めました。しかし、この城は大名たちにとって大きすぎました。最上氏以降の大名は皆石高がずっと少なかったからです。江戸時代の後半には城の一部分は既に荒廃していたと言われています。
As a result, Yoshiaki was given a fief of 570 thousand koku of rice by Tokugawa Shogunate. He became the third largest lord in Japan at that point. Unfortunately, Mogami clan was fired by the Shogunate later due to their internal troubles. After that, several lords tried to keep the castle. But the castle was too large for the lords because their earnings were much less than Mogami’s. It is said that part of the castle already fell into ruin in the late Edo Period.

二ノ丸南大手門跡~The ruins of South Main Entrance Gate at Ninomaru

特徴~Features

現在、二重目の堀の内側は、霞城公園として使われています。堀の外側はかつての三の丸に該当しますが、山形市の市街地になっています。堀の内側は中心に向かって二の丸、本丸という構成です。四角い形をしていて、その一辺は500mほどです。
Now, the inside of the second rounding moat is used as a park called Ka-jo Park. The outside of the moat, once called Sannnomaru, has become the Yamagata city area. The inside consists of Ninomaru and Honmaru towards the center. It is square shaped and one side is about 500 meters long.

霞城公園の航空写真~The aerial photo of Ka-jo Park

霞城公園は、何年にもわたって史跡公園として整備されてきました。その整備の一環で二の丸の東大手門が1991年に復元されました。この門は相当に大きくて、将軍が住んでいた江戸城の門にも匹敵するといいます。門の内側では、馬に乗った最上義光の銅像も見ることができます。
Ka-jo Park developed as a historical park over many years. With the development, the East Main Entrance Gate at Ninomaru called “Higashi-Otemon” was first restored in 1991. The gate is so large that its size might be as much as those of Edo Castle where the Shogun lived. You can see the statue of Yoshiaki Mogami riding a horse inside the gate.

東大手門の外側~The outside of East Main Entrance Gate
建物の内部~The inside of the building
東大手門を公園側から見た姿~The view of East Main Entrance Gate from the park side
最上義光の銅像~The statue of Yoshiaki Mogami

本丸は、現在発掘と整備の最中です。山形市は、本丸を復元するために古文書、
古写真、古図面の類を提供してもらうよう市民に呼び掛けています。しかし確かな証拠となるようなものは集まっていないようです。今のところ、本丸の正門である一文字門が、発掘の成果により部分的に復元されています。
You can also see Honmaru being excavated and developed now. Yamagata City has been asking people to send in old documents, pictures, and drawings to restore Honmaru. But it seems to be difficult to get certain evidence for doing it. So far, the main entrance of Honmaru, called Ichimonji-Gate, was partly restored recently with the excavation.

発掘中の本丸~Honmaru being excavated now
部分的に復元された一文字門~The partly restored Ichimonji-Gate

周辺の内堀もまた掘り返されています。本丸には天守はありませんでしたが、御殿が存在していました。市は御殿に関する何らかの展示を検討しています。また、2033年までに発掘を完了させ、本丸北虎口の復元を計画中です。
The inner moat around was also dug up again. Honmaru didn’t have the Tenshu keep, but had the Main Hall. The City is thinking about making an exhibition about it. It also plans to complete the excavation and restore the northern entrance of Honmaru by 2033.

本丸の空堀~The dry moat of Monmaru

その後〜Later Life

明治維新後、山形城は廃城となりました。本丸と二の丸の区域は、山形市に売られていきました。山形市は、その土地を日本陸軍の第32歩兵連隊に基地用地として提供しました。軍隊は内部を平らにするために内堀を埋め、本末の土塁を取り崩しました。一方で桜の木を植えて、それが新たな名所になったりしました。
After the Meiji Restoration, Yamagata Castle was abandoned. The area of Honmaru and Ninomaru was sold to Yamagata City. The city offered the area to the 32nd infantry regiment of the Japanese Amy for their base ground. They filled the inner moat and removed the Honmaru walls to make the inside plain, while they planted cherry blossoms which have become an attraction for people.

歩兵第32連隊の記念碑~The monument of the 32rd infantry regiment
霞城公園の桜(The cherry blossoms at Ka-jo Park)

第二次世界大戦後、この土地は霞城公園に転用されましたが、最初は運動公園としてでした。山形市は、公園についての整備方針を先程述べたように変更しています。野球場や体育館といった運動施設は、他の場所に移されているところです。三の丸区域は早い時期に町や畑になっていて、現在は山形市の市街地になりました。
After World War II, the area was turned into Ka-jo Park as a sports park first. Recently, Yamagata City has changed its policy about the park as mentioned above. Sport facilities like the baseball stadium and the gymnasium are being transferred to other places. The Sannomaru area turned early into towns and fields, now becoming the Yamagata city area.

1970年代の霞城公園の航空写真~The aerial photo of the area around Ka-jo Park in the 1970s

私の感想~My Impression

霞城公園は今なおとても大きなサイズです。山形市が観光を振興したい気持ちはよくわかります。でも歴史的建造物というのは、過去の大名たちがそうだったように維持にはとてもお金がかかります。一方で、運動、釣り、気晴らしなど他の目的をもった人たちもたくさん来ます。公園を整備するのにうまくバランスを取ってほしいと思います。
Ka-jo Park is still very large. I can understand what Yamagata City wants to do for tourism. But, historical facilities require a lot of funds for maintenance like lords used to do in the past. On the other hand, many people who have other purposes like exercise, fishing, and relaxing come every day. I hope that the city will take well-balanced control to develop the park.

東大手門からもう一枚~Another shot of East Main Entrance Gate

ここに行くには~How to get There

JR山形駅東口から二の丸東大手門まで歩いて約15分かかります。または、JR山形駅西口から二の丸南大手門跡まで歩いて約10分かかります。
東京から山形駅まで:山形新幹線に乗ってください。
車で行く場合:山形自動車道山形蔵王ICから15~20分かかります。霞城公園北門内側に駐車場があります。
It takes about 15 minutes From the east entrance of JR Yamagata station to the East Main Entrance Gate at Ninomaru on foot.
Or it takes about 10 minutes From the west entrance of JR Yamagata station to the ruins of South Main Entrance Gate at Ninomaru on foot.
From Tokyo to Yamagata st.: Take the Yamagata Shinkansen super express.
If you want to go there by car: It takes 15 to 20 minutes from the Yamagata-Zao IC on Yamagata Expressway. Ka-jo park offers a parking lot inside the north gate.

リンク、参考情報~Links and References

山形市:国指定史跡山形城跡「霞城公園」~Yamagata City:Nationally designated historic site Yamagata Castle “Kajo park”
・「東北の名城を歩く 南東北編: 宮城・福島・山形」吉川弘文館(Japanese Book)
・「最上義光の城郭と合戦」保角里志著、戒光祥出版(Japanese Book)