143.Mino-Kaneyama Castle Part1

The home base of the brave Mori Clan

Location and History

Mori Clan’s Severe History

Mino-Kaneyama Castle was located in the eastern part of Mino Province, what is now modern day Gifu Prefecture. The castle was built on a mountain which was sandwiched between Kiso-gawa River in the north and Nakasendo Road in the south. That meant it was an important point for controlling transportation during the Sengoku Period when many battles occurred. It was said that it was first built by the Saito Clan in the first 16th Century, and called Uho Castle in its first stage. After that, it was featured since the Mori Clan owned the castle in 1565 and renamed it Kaneyama Castle. The Mori Clan worked under the three rulers; Nobunaga Oda, Hideyoshi Toyotomi and Ieyasu Tokugawa from the Sengoku to the first Edo Periods. If you look into the history of the clan, you will see how severe their lives were and what they did to survive.

The location of the castle

The relief map around the castle

Lords and Brothers are killed in battles one after another

Yoshinari Mori was the lord of the clan in the late 16th Century, who served Nobunaga Oda since Nobunaga did not own many territories. That’s why he was promoted to be the lord of Mino-Kaneyama Castle during Nobunaga’s reign of Mino Province. However, Yoshinari had to join many battles in other provinces through Nobunaga’s instructions. Yoshinari was killed in a battle against the Azai and Asakura Clans in Omi Province (now modern day Shiga Pref.) in 1570. Yoshinari’s son, Nagayoshi followed his father’s position and was also active under Nobunaga.

Yoshinari Mori drawn in the Ukiyo-e painting “Mori Sanzaemon Yoshinari”, attributed to Yoshiiku Ochiai, in 1867  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The illustration of Nagayoshi Mori, owned by Joshoji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

He was often referred to Daredevil Musashi (it is part of his official title as the governor of Musashi Province). His three young brothers became Nobunaga’s pages, one of whom was Ranmaru, a famous historical person in Japan. This is because the cast for him is always performed with that for Nobunaga in modern plays showing the Honnoji Incident in 1582 where Nobunaga was killed. Nobunaga actually showed favor to Ranmaru who became the 3rd lord of Mino-Kaneyama Castle after Yoshinari was promoted to be another lord. However, the truth is that all the three brothers were killed in the incident.

The picture of the Honnoji Incident, attributed to Nobukazu Yousai, in 1896 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Ranmaru Mori drawn in the Ukiyo-e painting “Mori Ranmaru Nagayasu”, attributed to Yoshiiku Ochiai, in 1867 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Only One Brother is left as Next Lord

After the Honnoji Incident, Nagayoshi went back to Mino-Kaneyama Castle and followed Hideyoshi Toyotomi who was Nobunaga’s successor. In 1584 when the Battle of Komaki-Nagakute between Hideyoshi and Ieyasu Tokugawa happened, Nagayoshi joined a feint attack. However, Ieyasu noticed this plan, so he then ambushed and suddenly attacked it. Unfortunately Nagayoshi was instantly killed by a gun shot. As a result, Only Tadamasa, the youngest brother would be left to became the next lord of the Mori Clan. Nagayoshi actually left a will before his death, stating that Tadamasa shouldn’t be the lord of Mino-Kaneyama Castle. His intention is uncertain, but it might have been because he did not want Tadamasa to join battles and risked being killed.

The folding screens of the Battle of Komaki-Nagakute, owned by Toyota City Museum of Local History (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Tadamasa followed Nagayoshi’s position which included the lord of Mino-Kaneyama Castle through Hideyoshi’s instructions. He worked under Hideyoshi, but changed his master to Ieyasu Tokugawa who killed his brother, but would be the next ruler after Hideyoshi died. There might have been other reasons for him to do this, but the main reason was to make a cool-headed decision in order to survive. He was finally promoted as the lord of Mimasaka Province which was a larger territory than before in 1603. He was transferred from Mino-Kaneyama Castle to another in 1600.

The statue of Tadamasa Mori at the ruins of Tsuyama Castle in Mimasaka Province

One of Shokuho Style Castles

As for Mino-Kaneyama Castle itself, it was improved as the Mori Clan was becoming more powerful. The castle had several enclosures on many tiers on the mountain. There were the Main Enclosure on the top, the Barbican Enclosure on the mid slope, and the Second and Third Enclosures between them. It was one of the typical Shokuho style castles which Nobunaga, Hideyoshi, and their retainers built around Japan at that time. The style had three major features; building stone walls, stone foundations for buildings and roof tiles. These items were originally used for temples, high-class government houses and Imperial Palaces before that time. Nobunaga started to use them on his and his retainers’ castles to show his authority and power similar to his Azuchi Castle. The enclosures of Mino-Kaneyama Castle were surrounded by stone walls. At least, some buildings on the Main Enclosure were built on stone foundations using roof tiles. However, the castle was abandoned after Tadamasa moved to another castle in 1600.

The imaginary drawing of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Gifu Castle Museum
The imaginary drawing of Mino-Kaneyama Castle, exhibited by Sengoku Yamashiro Museum

To be continued in “Mino-Kaneyama Castle Part2”

143.美濃金山城 その1

勇猛な森氏の本拠地

立地と歴史

森氏の過酷な歴史

美濃金山城は、現在の岐阜県にあたる美濃国の東部にありました。この城は、北側を木曽川に、南側を中山道に挟まれた山の上にありました。多くの戦いが起こった戦国時代には、この場所は交通をコントロールできる重要地点でした。この城は最初は16世紀初頭に斎藤氏によって築かれたと言われています。初期の頃には、烏峰(うほう)城と呼ばれていました。その後、1565年に森氏が城主となってからより注目されるようになり、金山(かねやま)城と改名されました。森氏は、戦国時代から江戸時代初期までに3人の天下人、織田信長、豊臣秀吉、徳川家康に仕えました。森氏の歴史を見てみると、彼らの厳しい生き様と、その中でどうやって生き残ってきたのかがわかります。

城の位置

城周辺の起伏地図

当主や兄弟が次々に戦死

森可成(よしなり)は16世紀後半の森家の当主で、織田信長がまだ一地方の大名だった頃から仕えていました。そのため、信長が美濃国を手に入れたときに美濃金山城の城主に抜擢されたのです。しかし可成は、信長の命令により他国での多くの戦いにも従軍しなければなりませんでした。そして可成は、1570年に近江国(現在の滋賀県)での浅井・朝倉連合軍との戦いの中で戦死してしまいます。可成の息子、長可(ながよし)が父の跡を継ぎ、彼もまた信長の下で活躍しました。

浮世絵に描かれた森可成、落合芳幾作「森三左エ門可成」、1867年 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
森長可肖像画、常照寺所蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

長可は、その勇猛さから鬼武蔵(官位として武蔵守を称していたことに由来)と呼ばれました。彼の三人の弟は信長の小姓となり、その内の一人、乱丸(蘭丸)は日本の歴史の中でも有名人です。信長が殺された1582年の本能寺の変を描く現代のドラマでは、信長役とともに、乱丸役も必ず演じられるからです。信長は実際乱丸を気に入っていたようで、長可が別の領主(信濃川中島)となった後、乱丸を3代目の美濃金山城主としました。しかし事実として、その小姓となった兄弟は三人とも本能寺の変で討ち死にしてしまいました。

『真書太閤記 本能寺焼討之図』楊斎延一作、1896年 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
浮世絵に描かれた森乱丸、落合芳幾作「森蘭丸長康」、1867年 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

最後に一人だけ残った跡継ぎ

本能寺の変後、長可は美濃金山城に戻ってきて、信長の後継者となった豊臣秀吉に従いました。1584年、秀吉と徳川家康との間で小牧長久手の戦いが起こりました。長可は遊撃部隊に加わったのですが、家康はそれを察知し、密かに待ち伏せし奇襲攻撃をかけたのです。不幸にも長可は、銃撃により戦死してしまいました。その結果、森家の跡継ぎとしては、一番下の弟である忠政(ただまさ)だけが残ったのです。長可はその死の前、遺言を残しておりその中で、忠政は美濃金山城主になってはらなないと書いていました。彼の真の意図は不明ですが、忠政にこれ以上戦いに参加して死ぬことがないように配慮したとも考えられます。

「小牧長久手合戦図屏風」豊田市郷土資料館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

忠政は結局、秀吉の指示により、美濃金山城城主を含む長可の地位を継承しました。彼は秀吉に仕えましたが、彼の兄を殺したが秀吉死後の次の天下人と目される徳川家康に主君を変えました。この決断にはいくつもの理由があったでしょうが、生き残るためには冷静な判断が必要だったのです。1603年、彼はついに美作国の国主となり、それまでよりずっと大きい領地を手に入れました。ちなみに、既に1600年には美濃金山城から他の領地(兄の長可がいた信濃川中島)に移されていました。

美作津山城跡にある森忠政像

織豊系城郭の一つ

美濃金山城そのものについては、森氏によって改築され、強化されていました。この城があった山には階段状にいくつもの曲輪がありました。頂上には本丸が、中腹には出丸があり、その間には二の丸と三の丸がありました。この城は、当時信長、秀吉とその部下たちが日本中で築いた典型的な織豊系城郭の一つでした。このタイプの城には主に3つの特徴がありました。石垣を作ること、建物を礎石の上に築くこと、屋根に瓦を葺くことです。それ以前、これらの物は寺院、高級官庁や皇居にしか使われていませんでした。信長は、彼が築いた安土城に見られるように、彼と部下たちの城でそれらを使い始め、権威と権力を見せつけたのです。美濃金山城の曲輪も石垣で囲まれていました。少なくとも本丸の建物は、礎石の上に建てられ、屋根瓦が乗っていました。しかし、1600年に忠政が他の城に移された後に廃城となってしまいました。

安土城想像図、岐阜城展示室より
美濃金山城想像図、戦国山城ミュージアムにて展示

「美濃金山城その2」に続きます。

144.Ogaki Castle Part3

Let us feel a water of city and an atmosphere of the castle town.

Features

Walking along Former Outer Moat

The map around the castle

If you want to know what a Water Castle is like, consider walking around Suimon-gawa River, the former Outer Moat. The river still surrounds the northern and western sides of the castle. If you walk from the north to the west along the flow of the river, you can understand how large the castle was in the past. You can also see the ruins of the Tatsunokuchi-mon Gate on the northern side and the ruins of the Takebashiguchi-mon Gate on the western side.

Suimon-gawa River
The ruins of the Tatsunokuchi-mon Gate
The illustration of the Tatsunokuchi-mon Gate in the past, from the signboard at the site
The ruins of the Takebashiguchi-mon Gate

In addition, there are the Spring of Ogaki at the northwest corner and the Suito Park at the southwest corner where you can see Ogaki is still a city of water.

The Spring of Ogaki
The Suito Park

Walking along Old Mino Road

If you arrive at the Suito Park, you can walk along the old Mino Road as the road still goes on the southern and eastern sides of the castle through the former castle town. The pavement of the road is painted in a different color (beige) from other roads, so you can easily follow it.

The old Mino Road
The road is painted in a different color from other roads

You will see some traditional items such as an old sweet beans jelly shop, the ruins of Honjin (officially appointed inn) of Ogaki-juku Station on Mino Road and the ruins of Toiyaba (administration office). You can still feel what the castle town was like there.

The elegant roof of the sweet beans jelly shop
The ruins of Honjin (officially appointed inn) of Ogaki-juku Station
The ruins of Toiyaba (administration office)
An old rice dracker shop

My Impression

Before the Battle of Sekigahara, there might have been a chance for Mitsunari to defeat Ieyasu. If Mitsunari stayed in Ogaki Castle for longer time, the number of his supporters, including his master Hideyori, could increase. However, I think Ieyasu was much superior to Mitsunari as a general. Ieyasu trapped Mitsunari by wining Mitsunari’s allies like Hideaki Kobayakawa over to Ieyasu’s side. Ieyasu made Mitsunari leave Ogaki Castle by choice. I think Ieyasu learned a lot from his lost in the Battle of Mikatagahara in 1573 when he was young. He was trapped by Shingen Takeda to leave his Hamamatsu Castle by himself and defeated. As a result, he did a similar way in Sekigahara to what he had been done in Mikatagahara.

The statue of Ieyasu Tokugawa at Hamamatsu Castle
The present Hamamatsu Castle
The monument of the Battle of Mikatagahara

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about 15 minutes away from Ogaki IC on the Meishin Expressway. There are several parking lots around the park.
By public transportation, it takes about 10 minutes on foot from the JR Ogaki Station.
To get to Ogaki Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Tokaido Line at Nagoya Station.

That’s all. Thank you.
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