48.Matsusaka Castle Part1

Ujisato Gamo, a great isolated talent, built this castle.

Location and History

Matsusaka Castle was located in what is now Matsusaka City, Mie Prefecture, which was called Ise Province in the past. The castle was first built by Ujisato Gamo in 1588 and maintained by other clans later on. Ujisato was a warlord who is not well known, even to people in Japan, for his abilities and achievements. This is probably because he died young at 40 years old – his descendants also all died young, and the clan has become extinct. As a result, few records and traditions of Ujisato remained. He seemed to be a great isolated talent, like a comet.

The portrait of Ujisato Gamo, owned by Aizu Wakamatsu Library (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ujisato Gamo came from Omi Province, which is now Shiga Prefecture. The clan originally served the Rokkaku Clan, a warlord at Kannonji Castle in the province during the Sengoku Period. When Nobunaga Oda, who would later be the ruler, invaded the province in 1568, the Gamo Clan surrendered to Nobunaga, sending their successor, Ujisato to him as a hostage. However, Nobunaga found Ujisato was particularly outstanding among the many hostages from other clans, and married Ujisato to his daughter. Ujisato became a relative of Nobunaga. After Nobunaga was killed in the Honnoji Incident in 1582, Ujisato supported Hideyoshi Toyotomi, the next ruler. In 1584, he was promoted by Hideyoshi to a lord with an earning of 120,000 koku (rice) in Ise Province. He first lived in Matsugashima Castle which the previous lord had built, but decided to build his new home base which would be Matsusaka Castle.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The range of Ise Province and the location of the castle

Ujisato builds Castle and Town emulating Rulers

Ujisato built the main portion of the new castle on a hill near the previous one. Several enclosures were built on the hill, all surrounded by high stone walls. It was done by inviting a guild of craftsmen called Ano-shu from Omi Province, Ujisato’s hometown. This portion was strictly protected by these walls with alternating gates and some turrets along complex routes. The upper tier of the Main Enclosure on the top had the three-level Main Tower. The Third Enclosure was built around the hill, which was used as warriors’ houses. The water moat surrounded them. Ujisato also built the castle town beside the castle by bringing in merchants from his hometown, which was famous for the “Omi Merchant”. Overall, he built the castle and town in the ways his masters, Nobunaga and Hideyoshi developed their towns, with his own ideas and experiences. He finally named the castle Matsusaka, which combined a good word “Matsu” or Pine, and “saka”, part of the name of his current master, Hideyoshi’s Osaka Castle.

The remaining high stone walls of Matsusaka Castle
Part of the map of old Matsusaka Castle in Ise Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

In 1590, just after Hideyoshi’s unification of Japan, Ujisato was promoted and moved again to the Aizu area in the Tohoku Region to control the region. His territory finally reached an earning of 910,000 koku, which meant he became one of the greatest lords in Japan. He renovated a castle by building high stone walls and the Main Tower like Matsusaka Castle. The castle was renamed Wakamatsu Castle by him. It is also said that he advised a local lord, Nobunao Nanbu to build a castle with high stone walls, which was completed after his death, called Morioka Castle. These two castles are very rare ones, all built with high stone walls, in the region. Ujisato was also known as a tea ceremony master, poet, and Christian. However, he unfortunately died of illness in 1595.

The present Wakamatsu Castle
The remaining stone walls of Morioka Castle

It is difficult for other lords to maintain Castle

After Ujisato left the castle, which was subsequently inherited by the Hattori, Furuta, and Tokugawa Clans, respectively. The first two clans had smaller territories than Ujisato, so they could not afford to maintain the castle. The Tokugawa Clan, one of the three branches of the Tokugawa family, also could not do so, because the clan was based in Wakayama Castle. The stone walls of Matsusaka Castle were somehow repaired, but the buildings of it eventually deteriorated. For example, the Main Tower collapsed due to a windstorm in 1644 but was not restored. The Back Gate had only a thatched roof at the end of the Edo Period. On the other hand, the castle town prospered in the period. The merchants of the town were known as the “Ise Merchant”. For instance, the founder of the kimono shop Echigoya, which is present Mitsukoshi department store, Takatoshi Mitsui came from the town.

The old photo of the Back Gate which had a thatched roof, exhibited by Matsusaka City Museum of History and Folklore
Echigoya in “Suruga Town” from the series “100 Famous Views of Edo” attributed to Hiroshige Utagawa in the Edo Period (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimeidia Commons)

To be continued in “Matsusaka Castle Part2”

48.松坂城 その1

孤高の大器、蒲生氏郷が築いた城

立地と歴史

氏郷、2人の天下人に抜擢される

松坂城は、現在の三重県松阪市にありました。三重県はかつては伊勢国と呼ばれていました。この城は最初は1588年に蒲生氏郷によって築かれ、その後は他の大名たちによって維持されました。氏郷は、日本の人々にさえ、その能力と業績の割にはあまりよく知られていません。これは恐らく、彼自身が40歳で早く亡くなり、彼の跡継ぎもまた早くなくなったことで家が断絶してしまったからだと思われます。その結果、氏郷に関する記録や伝承があまり残っていないのです。彼は、彗星のように現れ去っていった、孤高の大器だったのでしょう。

蒲生氏郷肖像画、会津若松市立会津図書館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

蒲生氏郷は、現在の滋賀県にあたる近江国出身です。蒲生氏はもともと、戦国時代にこの国にあった観音寺城を拠点としていた六角氏に仕えていました。その後天下人となる織田信長が1568年に近江国に侵攻したとき、蒲生氏は信長に降伏し、跡継ぎであった氏郷を人質として差し出しました。しかし信長は、あまたの他の氏族からも来ている人質たちの中で、氏郷の才能が際立っていることを見抜き、自分の娘を氏郷に娶わせたのです。氏郷は信長の親族となりました。1582年の本能寺の変で信長が殺された後は、氏郷は次の天下人となる豊臣秀吉を支持します。1584年、彼は秀吉により伊勢国12万石の領主に抜擢されました。彼は最初は以前の領主がいた松ヶ島城に住んでいたのですが、新しい本拠地を築くことに決めました。それが松坂城でした。

織田信長肖像画、狩野宗秀作、長興寺蔵、16世紀後半 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
豊臣秀吉肖像画、加納光信筆、高台寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

伊勢国の範囲と城の位置

天下人を見習い、城と城下町を建設

氏郷は、新しい城の主要部分を、以前の城の近くにあった丘の上に築きました。丘上にはいくつもの曲輪が置かれましたが、全て高石垣により囲まれていました。この石垣は、氏郷の故郷である近江国から、石工の職人集団である穴太衆を招いて築かれました。また、主要部はこれら石垣と、食い違い虎口、複雑な通路に沿って建てられた櫓群により強固に守られていました。丘の頂上にあった本丸上段には、三層の天守がありました。三の丸は丘の周辺に築かれ、武家屋敷地として使われました。そして、水堀がその周りを囲んでいました。氏郷はまた、城の周りに城下町を建設し、「近江商人」として知られていた彼の故郷の商人たちを呼び寄せました。総じて氏郷は、主君の信長や秀吉が行ってきたやり方に習い、彼の考えや経験も加えて、城や城下町を築き上げたのです。彼は最後に、その城の名前を「松坂」としました。縁起がいい言葉である「松」と、そのときの主君、秀吉の城、大坂城から一字もらい受けた「坂」を組み合わせたものでした。

松坂城の現存高石垣
伊勢国松坂古城之図部分(出展:国立公文書館)

秀吉による天下統一がなされた直後の1590年、氏郷は再び加増移封となり、東北地方の押さえとなるために、会津に入りました。彼の領地は最終的には91万石に達し、日本有数の大大名となりました。彼は、そこにあった城(黒川城)に大改修を加え、松坂城のように高石垣と天守を築きました。彼はこの城を若松城と改名しました。また彼は、東北地方の大名であった南部信直に高石垣を使った城を築くようアドバイスしたと言われています。その城は氏郷の死後完成し、盛岡城となりました。これら2つの城は、東北地方においては非常に稀な、総高石垣による城作りの事例です。氏郷はまた、高名な茶人、歌人であり、クリスチャンでもありました。ところが、1595年に不幸にも病死してしまいます。

現在の若松城
盛岡城の現存石垣

困難だった城の維持

氏郷が松坂城を離れた後は、服部氏、古田氏、(紀州)徳川氏によって引き継がれました。前者の2家は、氏郷の時代よりも領地が少なく、氏郷の築いた城を維持していくのが困難でした。徳川氏は御三家の一つでしたが、その本拠地は和歌山城であったため、事情は一緒でした。松坂城の石垣はなんとか修繕されましたが、建物の方は時が経つにつれ劣化していきました。例えば、1644年の暴風雨により天守が崩壊しましたが、再建されませんでした。また、江戸時代末期には裏門の屋根は茅葺きとなっていました。一方、城下町は江戸時代には大いに繁栄しました。城の商人たちは「伊勢商人」として知られるようになります。一例を挙げると、現在の三越百貨店につながる三井越後屋呉服店の創業者、三井高利はこの町の出身です(江戸に出て同店を開業)。

茅葺きとなっていた裏門の古写真、松阪市立歴史民俗資料館にて展示
歌川広重「名所江戸百景」より「駿河町」、三井越後屋が描かれている (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

「松坂城その2」に続きます。

49.Odani Castle Part3

You should also check out the back part of the castle.

Features

After passing Nakanomaru Enclosure, you will see Kyogoku-maru Enclosure where Nobunaga’s retainer, Hideyoshi, first captured in the castle. Komaru Enclosure where Nagamasa’s father, Hisamasa, lived as a retreat is close behind the Kyogoku-maru Enclosure. That’s probably why he was defeated soon in the battle.

The map around the castle

Nakanomaru Enclosure
Kyogoku-maru Enclosure
Komaru Enclosure

Finally, Sanno-maru Enclosure is at the highest point of the ridge. You can see the largest and greatest remaining stone walls in the castle at the eastern side of the enclosure. It has four tiers, two more than the Main Enclosure. Some historians speculate that it is the actual Main Enclosure as those of other castles were usually the strongest and highest. In fact, almost all the names of the enclosures were defined after the actual period.

Sanno-maru Enclosure
Going to the large Stone Walls
The large Stone Walls
The imaginary of the Sanno-maru Enclosure, from the signboard at the site

Later History

After Odani Castle fell in 1573, Hideyoshi was given this castle by Nobunaga and lived there for a while. However, Hideyoshi built Nagahama Castle beside Biwa Lake in 1575 using some materials of Odani Castle. After he moved to the new castle, Odani Castle was eventually abandoned. The mountain the castle was built on became publicly owned until it was sold to local governments and private section in 1915. Then, local people started to preserve the castle ruins. As a result, the ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1937. Nagahama City, which now owns the ruins, is considering how to preserve them as well as letting people enjoy them.

The present Nagahama Castle (licensed by 663highland via Wikimedia Commons)
The stone walls of Odani Castle which have collapsed

My Impression

In fact, the ruins of Odani Castle cover a much larger than I visited. The site also has many other attractions such as the branch Ozuku Castle, some ruins of another ridge of the mountain, and the hall ruins on the valley called Shimizudani sandwiched by the ridges. It would take a whole day to see all of them. I am looking forward to doing this someday.

The restored map of the whole ruins, from the signboard at the site

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about 5 minutes away from Odanijo Smart IC on the Hokuriku Expressway. There are parking lots at the foot or the mid slope of the mountain.
By public transportation, it takes about 30 minutes on foot from the JR Kawake Station.
To get to Kawake Station from Tokyo: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Hokuriku Line at Maibara Station.

The parking lot at the mid slope

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Odani Castle Part1”
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