66.Tsuwano Castle Part2

Spectacular stone walls remaining on the mountain.

Features

Going Castle Ruins through former Castle Town

Today, visiting Tsuwano Town including Tsuwano Castle Ruins is exciting for many visitors. As you get close to the town by car or train, you will see many houses with reddish brown colored roof tiles called Sekishu Rooftiles on them, which can be used to protect people from a cold climate. You will also see the spectacular stone walls on the mountain beside the town, which are a good contrast with the color of the town.

A view from the train window

The entrance of the ruins at the foot of the mountain is about 1.5km away from Tsuwano Station if you come by train. Even if you also walk from the station to the ruins, it can be another good tour going through the former castle town. The area around the entrance is where the Main Hall for the lord was built. The hall building was turned into Tsuwano High School and the garden for the hall was turned into a square. Two turrets for the hall are remaining as Babasaki or the Near Riding Ground and Monomi or the Lookout Turrets.

The relief map around the castle

Tsuwano High School
The former garden for the Main Hall, called Kiraku-en
The remaining Near Riding Ground Turret
The remaining Lookout Turret

Going to Center of Ruins through Barbican Enclosure

The top of the mountain is about 200m above from the foot, so it would be efficient for visitors to use a lift operated by Tsuwano Town. The lift will take you to the top in few minutes while seeing the steep terrain and the trail for climbing.

The lift going to the top
You can see the trail for hikers

You can walk from the lift platform to the ruins on the trail of the top. You will first arrive at Demaru or the Barbican Enclosure which was used as a lookout, little far from the canter of the castle. There are only remaining stone walls now, but where you can see a great view of the area around. You will next walk to the center on the temporary path probably because the original trail is dangerous or under excavation.

The aerial photo around the castle

Going to the ruins from the lift platform
The entrance of the Barbican Enclosure
The inside of the Barbican Enclosure
A view from the Barbican Enclosure
The temporary path to the center

People manage to maintain Stone Walls

You will see the center is still surrounded by the spectacular stone walls but without buildings. Part of them collapsed being covered with sheets to avoid further damage. This was due to the North Yamaguchi Earthquake and the following heavy rain in 1997.

The map around the castle

Going to the Eastern Gate Ruins
The partially collapsed stone walls

Visitors usually enter the Eastern Gate Ruins also using the temporary steps. You can see the three-tier stone walls on the right, which was used for the Three-Tier Turret in the past. The lower tier is covered by a net to prevent it from collapsing. The other tiers were re-plied in 1972. People in Tsuwano still struggle maintaining these stone walls.

The temporary steps
The three-tier stone walls

Third Enclosure surrounding Top

The Third Enclosure has other gate ruins on the west and south, surrounding the top of the castle like a belt. If you go to the Western Turret Gate Ruins, you can see unaccountable broken pieces of Sekishu Rooftiles which probably came from the original gate building. Please make sure you don’t take them away from the original positions as they are all included to a National Historic Site.

The Western Turret Gate Ruins
The unaccountable broken pieces of Sekishu Rooftiles

The Southern Turret Gate Ruins are at the edge of a ridge just above a steep cliff. You may be thrilled if you are standing by the edge. The stone walls of the ruins are the oldest in the castle which Naomori Sakazaki originally built.

Going to the Southern Turret Gate Ruins
The Southern Turret Gate Ruins
These stone walls are the oldest in the castle
There is a steep cliff below the gate ruins
A view from the gate ruins

If you look back from the Southern Turret Gate Ruins, you can see the stone wall base for Hitojichi or the Hostage Turret. They are the highest stone walls in the castle and their corner curve lines are beautiful. However, if the turret was really used to hold hostages like its name suggests, they could not escape from it, as the stone walls are isolated.

A view when you look back from the Southern Turret Gate Ruins
The stone wall base for the Hostage Turret
The base looks beautiful

To be continued in “Tsuwano Castle Part3”
Back to “Tsuwano Castle Part1”

66.津和野城 その2

壮大な石垣が山上に残っています。

特徴、見どころ

町並みを見ながら城跡へ

現在、多くのビジターが津和野町への旅を楽しんでいます。もちろん津和野城跡もその中に含まれます。車でも電車でも町に近づいていくと、石州瓦と呼ばれる赤褐色の瓦を葺いた家並みが見えてきます。この瓦は寒冷な気候でも丈夫であるという特徴を持っています。それとともに、町の傍らの山の上に壮大な石垣があるのも見えてきて、石州瓦で彩られた町とよいコントラストを醸し出しています。

電車の車窓からの眺め

もし電車で来られた場合は、山麓に位置する城跡の入口は、津和野駅から約1.5km離れたところにあります。駅から城跡まで歩いたとしても、その途中に元城下町だった町を歩くこと自体が、楽しい旅の一部となるでしょう。城跡の入口周辺は、領主の御殿が建てられていた場所ですが、現在では津和野高校となっています。また、御殿の庭園は広場となっています。御殿にあった2つの櫓(馬場先櫓と物見櫓)のみが現存しています。

城周辺の起伏地図

津和野高校
かつて御殿の庭園があった場所(喜楽園)
現存する馬場先櫓
現存する物見櫓

出丸を通って城跡中心部へ

城跡がある山上は、山麓から約200mの高さがあります。よって、津和野町が運営しているリフトに乗っていくのが効率的かもしれません。リフトに乗れば数分で山の上に行けますが、その途中では急峻な地形や、山上へ歩いて登るための道が見えます。

山上に向かうリフト
歩いて登るための山道が見えます

リフトの降り場からは、城跡上の通路を歩いて頂上の方に向かいます。まず最初に、城の中心部から少し離れている、物見のために使われた出丸に着きます。現在は石垣しかありませんが、地域一帯の素晴らしい景色を眺めることができます。次には、オリジナルの通路が危険なのか発掘中であるためか、仮設通路で中心部に向かいます。

城周辺の航空写真

リフト乗降場から城跡へ
出丸入口
出丸内部
出丸からの眺め
仮設通路で城跡中心部へ

石垣を苦労して維持

城の中心部にも建物はありませんが、今でも壮大な石垣に囲まれています。一部の石垣は崩れていて、更なる崩壊を防ぐためにシートで覆われています。これは、1997年の北部山口地震とそれに続く豪雨により発生しました。

城周辺の地図

東門跡に向かいます
一部崩れている石垣

ビジターは通常、ここでも仮設の階段を登って、東門跡から入っていきます。右側には三段石垣がありますが、過去にはその上に三段櫓が建てられていました。下段の部分は崩壊防止のためのネットが張られています。他の二段は1972年に積み直されました。津和野の人たちは今でも石垣を維持するために大変な努力をしているのです。

仮設階段
三段石垣

頂上部を囲む三の丸

三の丸には西側と南側に門跡があり、城の頂上部をベルトのように囲んでいます。西櫓門跡に行ってみると、数えきれない程の石州瓦の破片が散らばっているのが見えます。恐らく門にあった建物で使っていたものでしょう。破片であっても国の史跡の一部分であるため、持ち帰ってはいけません。

西櫓門跡
無数の石州瓦の破片

南門跡は、山の峰の端部分にあり、すぐ下は急崖になっています。ここに立ってみると少し怖い気がするかもしれません。この辺りの石垣は城の中でも一番古く、坂崎直盛が築かせたものです。

南櫓門跡に向かいます
南櫓門跡
石垣は城では最も古いものです
門跡の下は急崖になっています
門跡からの眺め

南櫓門跡から振り返ってみると、人質櫓の櫓台石垣が目に入ってきます。この城で一番高い石垣であり、隅部分のカーブのラインがとても美しいです。しかし、名前の通り人質を留めるためにこの櫓が使われていたとすれば、この石垣は孤立して築かれているので、人質たちはとても逃げられなかったでしょう(しかし、少なくとも江戸時代には、その用途では使われなかったようです)。

南櫓門跡から振り返ったときの風景
人質櫓の櫓台石垣
美しい姿をしています

「津和野城その3」に続きます。
「津和野城その1」に戻ります。

66.Tsuwano Castle Part1

A great castle on a steep mountain

Location and History

Yoshimi Clan builds Castle to prepare for Mongol Invasions

Tsuwano Town is located in an intermount basin of Shimane Prefecture, the Chugoku Region. It has an old town atmosphere, sometimes called a little Kyoto in Sanin Area (northern Chugoku Region). In addition, Tsuwano Castle Ruins which is on the mountain, beside the town makes it more impressive. In fact, the town originally came from its castle town.

The old town atmosphere of Tsuwano
Tsuwano Castle Ruins seen from the town area

The castle was first built in 1295 by the Yoshimi Clan, which was sent by the Kamakura Shogunate to protect the area from the possible Mongol Invasions. The invasions historically ended in 1281, but warriors in Japan still expected the Mongolian army might have attacked Japan again. That’s why the clan built the castle on a steep mountain which was just off the Japan Sea. The clan eventually lived in the castle as a local lord for over 300 years. In 1554 of the Sengoku Period, the castle experienced a 110 day siege against the Sue Clan, but did not fall before the truce. The castle was strong enough though it had been all made of soil using natural terrain. After that, the Yoshimi Clan finally followed the Mori Clan, the leader of the Chugoku Region. However, the Yoshimi Clan had to leave the castle with the Mori Clan’s lost of the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600.

A scene of the Mongol Invasions from “The picture scrolls of the Mongol invasion attempts against Japan” (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The location of the castle

Success and Declining of Naomori Sakazaki

Ieyasu Tokugawa won the battle and sent Naomori Sakazaki to the castle as the founder of the Tsuwano Domain. Naomori who came from the Ukita clan who was the enemy of Ieyasu decided to support Tokugawa because he had a tiff with his own clan. Thus he changed his family name. He modernized and more fortified the castle by building high stone walls, some turrets and the Main Tower in the main portion on the steep mountain. Some other lords at that time often built or renovated their castles on a plain land for the convenience of their government. The reason for Naomori’s decision was said to prepare for possible battles against the neighbor Mori Clan or there was no space for a new castle in the basin. He also developed the castle town, for example, by building waterways to prevent fire and growing carps in them to reduce mosquitos. He also brought paper mulberry trees to the area, which would later create a new industry known as Sekishu Japanese writing paper.

The portrait of Naomori Sakazaki, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Part of the illustration of Tsuwano Castle in Iwami Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan
The remaining stone walls on the mountain

On the other hand, Naomori was an impulsive and monomaniac person. For example, he pursued a relative for 8 years to avenge the death of a person and he didn’t stop until that person got punished. He even sued the Tomita Clan who accommodated that person in the Shogunate Court and was finally fired by the shogunate. However, in the end he brought his own misfortune. In 1615 when the summer campaign of siege of Osaka where the shogunate defeated Hideyori Toyotomi, Naomori joined the Tokugawa shogunate’s side. Hedeyori’s wife, Senhime, who was the shogun’s daughter, was rescued and brought to the shogun by Naomori himself. The next year, a very mysterious incident occurred. Naomori had planned to kidnap Senhime a night before her wedding to one of Tokugawa Shogunate’s senior vassals. The shogunate’s troops surrounded his house but he committed harakiri.

The portrait of Senhime, owned by Gugyoji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Hidetada Tokugawa who was Senhime’s father, owned by Saifuku-ji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

It is quite uncertain why he tried such a foolish action. Some say this was because the founder of the shogunate and Senhime’s grandfather, Ieyasu Tokugawa had promised to marry Senhime with the person who rescued her, but they didn’t do what they have initially promised. Another speculation is that Naomori was asked to find a husband for Senhime because he himself was much older than her. But nothing happened according to his wishes and so eventually he lost everything because of his egoistic tendencies.

The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Kamei Clan follows Tsuwano Domain and Castle

The Tsuwano Domain was followed by the Kamei Clan, which governed the domain until the end of the Edo Period. Like many other domains, they built the Main Hall at the foot of the mountain for living and the government. They also kept the castle on the mountain, but it was actually very tough. In 1685, the Main Tower and some other turrets were burned down by a lightning fire. Unfortunately, the tower was not restored. The stone walls on the mountain sometimes collapsed due to earthquakes or natural cause because of the steep terrain. As a result, most of the stone walls were repaired or re-plied during the period, but some of them were left that way. In addition, the domain established the domain school called Yorokan to educate the retainers. Many pioneers to modernize Japan in the Meiji Rra came from this school such as Ogai Mori (a novelist) and Amane Nishi (a Philosopher).

The illustration of Tsuwano Castle (showing its state of the early Meiji Era), in 1874, from the signboard at the site
The interior of the restored domain school
The photo of Ogai Mori, in 1916 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The photo of Amane Nishi, published in 1931 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Tsuwano Castle Part2”