178.Noshima Castle Part3

If you have enough time to go there, it may be better to use a bike. This is because the ruins are near the cycling route on Shimanami Ocean Road.

Features

Walking around Second Enclosure

The second enclosure is elevated from the third enclosure and surrounds the main enclosure like passages. It was thought that it was used for residence and lookout point. You can walk around it and see other attractions below. For example, you will see the Funadamari beach which you saw from the boat off the beach. You can sea an artificial ditch which divides the shore and the passage on the beach.

The map around the castle

The second enclosure
The Funadamari beach, seen from the second enclosure
The artificial ditch at the beach

You will also see the enclosure on the northeastern cape, called Yabitsu (directly means “arrow chest”). it was said that the navy soldiers practiced shooting arrows towards Ushima Island from across the sea.

The Yabitsu Enclosure
The Yabitsu Enclosure, seen from the Kareiyama Mountain

Main Enclosure, Enjoyable place both Now and in Past

You will finally arrive at the main enclosure on the top, where you can see an amazing 360degree view! The past soldiers also must have been able to monitor everything that happened in the strait. According to the excavations, there were lookout towers and lots of earthenware dishes called Kawarake. Kawarake dishes were disposable ones which were used for parties or ceremonies. That meant the navy members enjoyed their parties on the top with such beautiful scenery.

Going up to the main enclosure on the right
The top on the main enclosure
The view from the north side of the enclosure (the Seto Inland Sea)
The view from the east side of the enclosure (the Ushima Island)
The view from the south side of the enclosure (the Taizaki Island)
The view from the west side of the enclosure (the Oshima Island)
The main enclosure, seen from the Kareiyama Mountain

In addition, the island has mysterious large holes (about 1m in diameter and 2m in depth) at its seaside. Historians speculate they might have been water tanks. However, my guide said it was interesting if they were used as baths.

The replica of the large hole, exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum

Later History

The island was used as fields during the Edo Period after the navies withdrew, but it eventually became deserted as mentioned above. In 1931, the officials started to plant cherry trees on the island. Since then, it became a popular spot for cherry blossoms where other boat tours for the locals were held every spring. However, the trees were all cut down recently because their roots had destroyed the castle ruins. Only their remaining stumps are now used as benches there. On the other hand, the ruins have been designated as a National Historic Site since 1953. In addition, they have been getting popular more and more throughout the country as a castle of the Murakami Navies.

Some of the remaining stumps

My Impression

I had a special experience by visiting Noshima Castle Ruins because I have not visited any castles by boats. The boat tour made me understand how the castle was used and protected carefully. The experience also taught me that there were people who lived in very different ways from others through the history of Japan. Maybe there are also similar people even in the present time. Someday, I hope there will be regularly scheduled ships that tourists can use to visit the castle ruins, if it gets more and more popular.

Murakami KAIZOKU Museum is another attraction before or after visiting the castle ruins

How to get There

Basically, I recommend using a car to get there. For people from the mainland, it takes about 5 minutes from Kita-Oshima IC on the Nishi-Seto Expressway. For people from Shikoku Island, it takes about 15 minutes from Minami-Oshima IC on the Nishi-Seto Expressway. The parking lots at the Miyakubo fishing port or the Murakami KAIZOKU Museum are available.

If you have enough time to go there, it may be better to use a bike. This is because the ruins are near the cycling route on Shimanami Ocean Road. For example, if you are in Imabari City on Shikoku Island, you can rent a bike at Imabari Station and ride it on the road right away.

The cycling route on the Imabari city area

Go across Kurushima Kaikyo Bridges over the Kurushima Strait and go further on the Oshima Island for a while.

The Kurushima Kaikyo Bridges over the Kurushima Strait
The top on the bridge
The cycling route on the Oshima Island

The port is located at the northern edge of the island, which is about 22km from the station.

Arriving at the site by the bicycle

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Noshima Castle Part1”
Back to “Noshima Castle Part2”

178.能島城 その3

もしここに行くのにたっぷり時間がある方は、自転車を使って行ってみてはいかがでしょうか。この城跡の近くを、「しまなみ海道」サイクリングロードが通っているからです。

特徴、見どころ

二の丸を歩いて回る

二の丸は、三の丸より一段高くなっていて、本丸を通路のように囲んでいます。この曲輪は、住居や見張りのための場所として使われたと考えられています。ここを歩きながら眼下の見どころもチェックできます。例えば、先ほど沖合の船から見た船溜まりなどです。その海岸上には、人工的な溝があり、通路と波打ち際を仕切っています。

城周辺の地図

二の丸
二の丸から見た船溜まり
船溜まりにある人口の溝

また、「矢びつ」と呼ばれる曲輪が、島の北西の岬上にあります。この場所では水兵たちが、対岸の鵜島に向かって矢を射る練習をしていたと言われています。

二の丸から見た「矢びつ」
カレイ山から見た「矢びつ」

今も昔も絶景を楽しんだ本丸

そしてついに、頂上の本丸に到着します。ここでは360度周りを見渡すことができ、まさに絶景です。昔の水兵たちは、この海峡で起こったことは全て、ここから把握できたことでしょう。発掘調査によると、ここには物見櫓があり、多くの「かわらけ」と呼ばれる陶器が発見されました。「かわらけ」は当時、宴会や儀式の都度、使い切りで用いられていました。すなわち、水軍のメンバーたちは、このような景色を見ながら、この島の頂で宴会を楽しんでいたということになります。

本丸に上っていきます(右側)
本丸の上
北側の景色(瀬戸内海)
東側の景色(鵜島)
南側の景色(鯛崎島)
西側の景色(大島)
カレイ山から見た本丸

また、この島の別の岸では不思議な大穴(直径が約1m、深さが約2m)が見つかっています。歴史家たちは貯水池として使われたのではないかと言っていますが、ガイドの方はこれがお風呂だったらさぞ面白いだろうと想像を逞しくされていました。

大穴のレプリカ、今治市村上海賊ミュージアムにて展示

その後

この島は村上水軍が引き上げから後、江戸時代には畑地として利用されていました。しかし前述の通り、いつしか無人島になっていました。1931年に、島には桜の木が植えられました。それ以来、桜の名所となり、開花の季節には地元の人たちを乗せた船が通っていました。ところが最近その桜の木は、その根が城跡を破壊しているということで全部伐採されてしまいました。現地では、わずかに残っている切株がベンチ代わりに使われています。一方、城跡自体は、1953年に国の史跡に指定されています。また、近年では村上水軍の城として、日本中で人気が高まってきています。

ベンチとなっている切り株

私の感想

これまでどの城にも船で乗り付けたことはなかったので、能島城跡への訪問は特別な経験となりました。今回のツアーに参加することで、城がどのように使われ、今はどのように注意深く保全されているのか理解することができました。また、このような場所では他とは全く違う暮らし方をした人たちがいたことも教えられました。もしかすると私が知らないだけで、現在でも似たような生活をしている人たちがいるのかもしれません。それから、もっとこの城跡に人気が出て、城跡への定期船が運行されるようになってほしいとも思いました。

村上海賊ミュージアムも見どころの一つです

ここに行くには

ここに行くには基本的には車を使われることをお勧めします。本州方面からは西瀬戸自動車道北大島ICから約5分、四国方面からは西瀬戸自動車道南大島ICから約15分かかります。宮窪漁港または村上海賊ミュージアムの駐車場を使うことができます。

但し、もしここに行くのにたっぷり時間がある方は、自転車を使って行ってみてはいかがでしょうか。この城跡の近くを、「しまなみ海道」サイクリングロードが通っているからです。例えば、四国の今治市にいたならば、今治駅で自転車を借りて、すぐにサイクリングロードに乗り出すことができます。

今治市側のサイクリングロード

来島海峡にかかっている来島海峡大橋を渡り、しばらくは大島を進んでいきます。

来島海峡にかかる来島海峡大橋
大橋の上
大島上のサイクリングロード

ツアー船が出る港は、大島の北端にあります。今治駅から約22km離れたところです。

自転車で現地に到着です

リンク、参考情報

能島城跡、今治地方観光協会
今治市村上海賊ミュージアム
・「日本の城改訂版第126号」デアゴスティーニジャパン
・「瀬戸内の海賊/山内譲著」新潮選書
・「村上水軍全紀行/森本繁著」新人物往来社
・「小早川隆景のすべて」新人物往来社編

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「能島城その1」に戻ります。
「能島城その2」に戻ります。

178.Noshima Castle Part2

Noshima has become a deserted island. You can’t go there by yourself because of the state of the island. If you want to go there, you need to book a boat tour from Miyakubo fishing port on the weekends.

Features

Island looking like Unsinkable Warship

Today, Noshima unfortunately has become a deserted island. If you see Noshima from other places such as the seaside of Oshima Island and Mt. Kareiyama observation park on the island, Noshima looks like an unsinkable warship. This is partially because Noshima Island has been developed by the officials to maintain its original conditions of its castle ruins as they are a National Historic Site. That’s why the ruins don’t have trees and bushes, so that you can see the shapes of its enclosures vividly.

The observation platform of Kareiyama Mountain
Noshima Island, seen from the platform

Going to Castle Ruins by attending Boat Tour

Despite the development, you can’t go there by yourself because of the state of the island. If you want to go there, you need to book a boat tour from Miyakubo fishing port on the weekends. (However, the tour could be canceled due to the lack of participants, if it’s less than 10.) If you board on the boat, the captain will operate it smoothly like a sailor of the Murakami Navies.

The Miyakubo fishing port
Boarding the boat
Going to the castle ruins

The boat will approach around the island in a few minutes. There is another smaller island called Taizaki-jima, like a satellite island of Noshima. It was said that both islands were once connected by a suspension bridge. Taizaki Island still has a small shrine on it, but visitors usually can’t go there because there is no bridge today. In addition, the sea between them is very dangerous because it is too shallow for any ships to pass during low tide.

The castle ruins are coming into view
Taizaki Island
The shallows between the two islands

The aerial photo around the castle

Wild Tides around Island

Your boat will not reach Noshima Island so easily because the tides around it are usually wild. For example, the tide around its northeastern cape usually swirls, which causes ships to turn without professional operations.

The eastern side of Noshima Island
The northeastern cape of the island
The tide is swirling

Your boat will go around north of the island seeing its northern beach called Funadamari (meaning the boat pool). The beach has terraced design with a passage, so It was thought that the Navy members unloaded cargo there. There are also lots of postholes around the shore, called “Gansho(reef) Pit”, which were said to be used for mooring. However, it is still uncertain how the Navies used them because there are over 400 holes around the island including dangerous spots. You may see only a few of the holes as they were buried again for preservation or are covered from the tide.

The Funadamari boat pool
You can see some of the postholes

Going to Third Enclosure after landing

Your boat will eventually come alongside the pier at the southwestern beach, one of the few safe spots of the island. There are shore protections with restored stone mounds and the ruins of a repair shop nearby. That’s why this place was thought to be used as a maintenance yard.

Getting close to the pier
The beach is guarded by the shore protections

The tour guide will introduce you to the attractions of the castle ruins on the island after landing. The tour course is safe and well developed with paths and wooden steps for visitors though there are no castle buildings.

Following the guide

The castle ruins have several enclosures; the main enclosure on the top, surrounded by the second enclosure, the lower third enclosure, and the others on the island’s capes. The tour group will first go to the third enclosure from the beach. Stone foundations were found by the excavation team, which were thought to be used as houses or warehouses. Earthenware jars and valuable chinaware were excavated there, so they might have been stored as a type of fee from travelers’ ships or by the navies’ tradings.

The third enclosure
Looking towards the main enclosure from the main enclosure
The third enclosure, seen from the Kareiyama Mountain

To be continued in “Noshima Castle Part3”
Back to “Noshima Castle Part1”