186.Kaneda Castle Patr3

There are branch paths from the first turning point of the main hiking course to other attractions of the castle ruins. The paths are not the former military road and are a little rougher than it. However, it is worth to visit.

Features

Three Gate Ruins

There are branch paths from the first turning point of the main hiking course to other attractions of the castle ruins. The paths are not the former military road and are a little rougher than it. These are not as popular as the military road. However, it is worth to visit. If you walk down the path for a while, you will be at the junction of another path to the first and second gate ruins, and the other path to the third gate ruins.

The map around the castle

The path from the first switchback

The junction is near a hill called Bingushi Mountain where the ruins of other buildings were discovered. These buildings are thought to have been used as barracks for the Sakimori soldiers.

The diorama of Kaneda Castle Ruins, exhibited by the sightseeing information center Fureaidokoro Tsushima, adding the branch paths (the red lines), and the places of the second gate (marked by the blue circle) and the third gate (marked by the yellow circle)
The path to the ruins of the first and the second gates
The path to the ruins of the third gate
Around the Bingushi Mountain, you can see a rest station on the left
Around the Bingushi Mountain on the diorama

The three gates were built using stones at the eastern side as castle and water gates near the seaside. The stones used in the castle are mainly natural while part of the stones of the first gate are rectangular- processed. However, it is said that they were piled by the Tsushima Domain during the Edo Period to guard the coast. They’ve been restored and repaired so that visitors can see them as if they used to look.

Around the second gate on the diorama
The second gate ruins seen from above
The second gate ruins seen from the bottom
The first gate ruins
The types of the stones were different in the upper and lower parts of the first gate
Going to the third gate ruins after once returning the junction
The third gate ruins

Wonderful Stone Walls along Sea

After you visit the third gate ruins, you can return by the same route or by another path though the southeast stone fortress. If you take the latter, you will see the great long stone walls of the eastern side on the right and beautiful Aso Bay on the left. Please watch your step as the path is partially unstable.

Going towards the southeast stone fortress
There are great stone walls along the sea
They are spectacular long stone walls!

The southeast stone fortress is really great, too! The corner of the fortress was protruded outward to build a salient with enhanced defense in preparation for an enemy’s attack. It looks like a Gusuku (Okinawan castle) or a small Great Wall of China. If you walk up along the fortress, you will return to the route you passed.

The southeast stone fortress
The edge of the fortress
It’s a good contract of the fortress and the sea
Around the southeast fortress on the diorama

Later History

People alway knew about Kaneda Castle because it had been recorded in the Nihon-shoki chronicles, however, they didn’t know about where it was as it had been abandoned too early to remember. For example, trade with Korea was done at a shrine near the first gate during the Middle Ages and the Tsushima Domain used the gate during the Edo Period, but they didn’t notice it was a ancient mountain castle. There is no telling how the Imperial Japanese Army treated it. Historians discovered the ruins on the mountain in the Taisho Era (1910-1925) and they finally confirmed it as Kaneda Castle after World War II. As a result, the ruins were designated as a National Special Historic Site in 1982.

The ruins of Kaneishi Castle, the home of the Tsushima Domain

My Impression

I was very surprised to see that the Joyama Mountain has become dual historical sites of the ancient times and modern times. Both sites show us there were strained relations with foreign countries at those times. Other than that, Tsushima also had dramatic events such as during the Mongolian Invasions and the invasion of Korea by Hideyoshi Toyotomi. On the other hand, there were also peaceful relationships such as with the Korean Envoys. We can now see many tourists visiting Tsushima from Korea recently, too. There is no need to say which is better.

The figures of the Korean Envoys, exhibited by Kokura Castle Tower

How to get There

I recommend using a car to get there. It takes about 20 minutes from Tsushima Airport or about 30 minutes from Izuhara Port. There is a small parking lot at the starting point of the hiking course.

The Izuhara Port
The small parking lot at the starting point of the hiking course

That’s all. Thank you.
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186.金田城 その3

メインとなるハイキングコースの最初の折り返し点からは、小径が出ていて、城跡の他の見どころに通じています。これらの道筋は元の軍用道路ではなく、且つそれと比べれば整備はされていません。しかし訪れる価値はあります。

特徴、見どころ

3つの城戸跡

メインとなるハイキングコースの最初の折り返し点からは、小径が出ていて、城跡の他の見どころに通じています。これらの道筋は元の軍用道路ではなく、且つそれと比べれば整備はされていません。また、あまり人が歩いていないので人気もないようです。しかし訪れる価値はあります。この小径をしばらく下っていくと、分岐点に着きます。

城周辺の地図

折り返し点から出ている小径

そこからは、一ノ城戸跡及び二ノ城戸跡に行く道と、三ノ城戸に行く道とに分かれています。この分岐点の近くには、ビングシ山と呼ばれる丘があって、そこでも建物跡が発見されています。これらの建物は、防人の兵舎として使われたのではないかとされています。

金田城跡のジオラマ(対馬観光情報館にて展示)に折り返し点からの小径(赤線)、二ノ城戸(青丸内)と三ノ城戸(黄色丸内)の位置を追記
一ノ城戸跡及び二ノ城戸跡に行く道
三ノ城戸跡に向かう道
ビングシ山周辺、左側に見えるのは休憩所
上記ジオラマのビングシ山周辺

3つの城戸(きど)は、城の東側の海岸近くに、城門及び水門として石を積んで築かれました。この城で主に使われている石材は自然石ですが、一ノ城戸で使われている一部の石は長方形に加工されています。しかし、これら長方形の石は、江戸時代になって海岸防備のために対馬藩によって積まれたものではないかと言われています。これらの門跡はよく復元、または修築されていて、ビジターがかつてあった姿を見てわかるようになっています。

上記ジオラマの二ノ城戸周辺
二ノ城戸跡(上方から見ています)
二ノ城戸跡(下方から見ています)
一ノ城戸跡
一ノ城戸の下部と上部では石の加工度合いが異なっています
一旦分岐点に戻り、三ノ城戸跡に向かいます
三ノ城戸跡

海岸沿いの素晴らしい石垣

三ノ城戸跡を見た後は、来た道を戻ることもできますし、東南角石塁を経由する別の道を通ることもできます。後者を選択した場合は、右手には城の東側にそびえる素晴らしい長大な石垣を、左手には美しい浅茅湾を見ながら進みます。但し、この道は足元が不安定な箇所があるので気を付けて下さい。

東南角石塁の方に向かいます
海岸沿いに素晴らしい石垣があります
長大な石垣が続きます

その後に現れる東南角石塁もまた素晴らしいです。この石塁の角部分には、敵の来襲に備えて特別な防御の仕掛けがあり、いくつかの突起が設けられています。まるで、沖縄のグスクか、万里の長城の小型版のようです。この石塁に沿って登っていくと、元歩いたルートに戻ります。

東南角石塁
石塁の角(端)部分
石塁と海がすばらしい対比となっています
上記ジオラマの東南角石塁周辺

その後

人々は金田城があったということは常にわかっていました。日本書紀にその存在が記録されていたからです。ところが、それがどこにあったかはわからなくなっていました。記憶に残るにはあまりに早く廃城となってしまったからです。例えば、中世には一ノ城戸の近くの神社で朝鮮との交易がおこなわれました。また、対馬藩が江戸時代に一ノ城戸を再利用しましたが、いずれもそれが古代山城だとは知らなかったのです。旧日本陸軍が城をどのように扱ったのかは言うまでもないでしょう。歴史家が山上にあるものを古代山城の遺跡として「発見」したのは大正時代のことです。それが金田城ものものだと確定したのは戦後のことでした。その結果、1982年には城跡は国の特別史跡に指定されました。

対馬藩の本拠、金石城跡

私の感想

現地に行ってみて、城山が古代と近代両方の史跡になっているのに驚きました。これらの史跡が築かれたときは、対外関係がとても緊張していたということがわかります。それ以外にも、対馬にはモンゴル襲来のときや豊臣秀吉の朝鮮侵攻といった激動の歴史がありました。その一方で、朝鮮通信使との交流によって平和的関係を築いたという時代もありました。最近では、多くの韓国からの観光客が対馬を訪れています。どちらが望ましいかは言うまでもないでしょう。

朝鮮通信使一行のジオラマ、小倉城天守内展示より

ここに行くには

ここに行くには車を使われることをお勧めします。対馬空港から約20分、厳原港からは約30分のところです。ハイキングコースの出発地点の手前に小さな駐車スペースがあります。

厳原港
ハイキングコース出発地点の駐車スペース

リンク、参考情報

古代山城・金田城をあるく、対馬観光物産協会
・「よみがえる古代山城/向井一雄著」吉川弘文館

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「金田城その1」に戻ります。
「金田城その2」に戻ります。

19.Kawagoe Castle Part3

We will finally visit the remaining Main Hall in the main enclosure. It is one of the four remaining halls for exiting castles in Japan, which is very rare and valuable. In the case of Kawagoe Castle, two parts of its hall remain, its entrance and the office for the senior vassals.

Features

We will finally visit the remaining Main Hall in the main enclosure. It is one of the four remaining halls for exiting castles in Japan, which is very rare and valuable. In the case of Kawagoe Castle, two parts of its hall remain, its entrance and the office for the senior vassals. The entrance part has the main and side entrances.

The Main Hall in the main enclosure (the main entrance)
The side entrance called Naka-no-kuchi

From Main Entrance to Hiroma Room

Visitors usually enter the main one which has a luxurious decoration. It also has Hiroma (meaning large room),several waiting rooms for messengers, and officers’ rooms.

The main entrance
The decorations of its roof
The interior of the entrance
The layout of the current Main Hall, the entrance part is below and the senior vassals’ office is above, from the signboard at the site

The Hiroma is the first room after entering, which is the largest with an alcove and paintings on ceder-board doors as the hall’s face. An interest thing about the room is that you can see lots of traces of volleyballs on its ceiling. This is because the room was once used as the gym of a school.

The interior of the Hiroma room
The paintings on ceder-board doors
The traces of volleyballs on the ceiling
The corridor in front of the rooms
A waiting room for the messengers

Office for Senior Vassals

The senior vassals’ office was originally built at a different position, moved to another site and finally returned to the current position. In the back room, three vassals’ figures show they are discussing the matter of Shinagawa Batteries which the Kawagoe Domain was in charge of to guard Edo Bay.

The layout of the original Main Hall, the senior vassals’ office (marked by the red lines above) was little far from the entrance part (marked by the red lines below), from the signboard at the site
A view of the office
The interior of the office
The figures are discussing in the back room
The drawing they are looking at seems to be about Shinagawa Batteries
The remaining No.3 Shinagawa Battery

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Kawagoe Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings excluding the Main Hall were demolished. Most of the castle area was turned into the city area by destroying the earthen walls and filling the water moats. The remaining Main Hall was first turned into the prefectural office. After that, it changed to a public hall, a factory building, a martial arts hall, and finally a school building or gym. Its remaining part might have been reduced during the diversions. However, Saitama Prefecture designated the hall as a prefectural cultural property in 1967. Kawagoe City planed the development of the park around the castle and is carrying out it one by one.

The area around the Main Hall has recently been developed in a good condition
Miyoshino Shrine, which is located next to the main enclosure, has remained since the Edo Period

My Impression

I think there was no other way than using the castle area to develop the modern city area. That’s why Kawagoe City still prospers with commerce, agriculture, industries, and tourism. On the other hand, I am also pleased to see the volleyball traces on the remaining Main Hall. I imagine if there was a similar case to use an old hall as a gym, it could be replaced with a new building. I also guess locals in Kawagoe wanted to somehow maintain the hall no matter how it was used.

the street with Kura storehouses of Kawagoe
The ceiling of the Hiroma room of the Main Hall

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 15-minute drive away from Kawagoe IC on the Kanetsu Expressway.
There are several parking lots around the main enclosure.
By public transportation, take the Co-Edo Loop Bus from JR Kawagoe Station or Tobu Hon-Kawagoe Station and get off at the Honmaru-Goten bus stop.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Kawagoe Castle Part1”
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