111.Mukai-Haguroyama Castle Part1

Moriuji Ashina. who became a great warlord, retired, transferred the headship of the family to his son and started the construction of a new castle as his retreat, which would be Mukai-Haguroyama Castle.

Location and History

Origin of Castle’s name

Mukai-Haguroyama Castle was located in the Aizu area of the modern day Fukushima Prefecture. Regarding castles and ruins, the area is much more known for Wakamatsu Castle which was the home base of the Aizu Domain during the Edo Period. However, the castle had been called Kurokawa Castle when the Ashina Clan owned it and the clan had a much larger Mukai-Haguroyama Castle than Kurokawa Castle at that time. The mountain that Mukai-Haguroyama Castle was built on was originally called Iwasaki Mountain, so the castle was first called Iwasaki Castle as well. Alternatively, the mountain was called Mukai-Haguroyama Mountain, which means the mountain opposite of Haguroyama Mountain. These two mountains actually look like they are standing in a row, so the castle was eventually called Mukai-Haguroyama Castle sometime later.

Wakamatsu Castle seen from Odayama Castle Ruins
Mukai-Haguroyama (or Iwasaki) Mountain on the left and Haguroyama Mountain on the right, seen from Odayama Castle Ruins

Ashina Clan settles in Aizu area

The Ashina Clan originally came from the Sawara Clan, a branch family of the Miura Clan, which was a senior vassal family of the Kamakura Shogunate in the early Middle Ages, which was based in Miura Peninsula of Sagami Province (now Kanagawa Pref.). After Yoritomo Minamoto, the founder of the shogunate invaded the Tohoku Region in 1189, the Sawara Clan got a territory in the Aizu area for their contributions. Some of the clan settled in the area and renamed their family names, such as the Inawashiro, Kitada, and Shingu Clans. In the early 14th Century when the Ashikaga Shogunate was established, the Ashina Clan, another branch family of the Sawara Clan, was active in the Tohoku Region including the Aizu area, who called itself “the Aizu Governor”. As a result, the clan moved their home base from Ashina in Miura Peninsula to the Aizu area and built a new hall called Otakaki-no-tate in the middle of the century, which would later be known as Kurokawa Castle.

The location of the castle and the birthplace of the Ashina Clan

However, the Ashina Clan was not able to govern the area easily because the other relatives of the Sawara Clan and other local clans did not obey the Ashina Clan just with its authority. The Ashina Clan needed to force them to obey the clan by force, otherwise it had to defeat them. For example, the Ashina Clan battled and defeated the Kitada and Shingu Clans. All of which, including the Ashina Clan, came from the same Sawara Clan. Another relative, the Inawashiro Clan became a senior vassal of the Ashina Clan after they fought with each other. The Ashina Clan also needed to prevent great lords outside the Aizu Area, such as the Date, Nikaido, and Satake Clans from invasion of the area. The lords of the Ashina Clan usually lived in Kurokawa Castle in the plain Aizu Basin. They also built Odayama Castle on Odayama Mountain beside the basin, about 1.5km away from Kurokawa Castle, as a final place for emergencies. Such a combination can also be seen in the cases of other clans over the whole country during the Sengoku Period. Odayama Castle was also used as their ancestors’ graveyard.

The relief map around Kurokawa Castle

The ruins of Odayama Castle (its Main Gate)
The ruins of the Ashina Clan’s graveyard

Moriuji Ashina builds Mukai-Haguroyama Castle as his Retreat

The Ashina Clan’s power reached its peak when Moriuji Ashina, the lord of the clan at that time, reigned in the middle of the 16th Century. His government of the Aizu area became stable and he also had diplomatic relationships with other great warlords in Japan, like Kenshin Uesugi, Shingen Takeda, and Masamune Date, which meant he became a great warlord as well. What he did next was retire and transfer the headship of the family to his son and start the construction of a new castle in 1861 as his retreat and the replacement for Odayama Castle, about 5km away from Kurokawa Castle in the south, which would be Mukai-Haguroyama Castle. However, the castle was too large for the retreat and the replacement, in fact, Moriuji still had the real power of the clan and the castle looked like a new home base for the clan. The construction lasted for 8 years until 1568, which resulted in one of the largest mountain castles in the Tohoku Region. The castle was built using soil, which was a typical method of building castles in eastern Japan, and had uncountable enclosures protected by structures using and processing natural terrain, such as deep dry moats, thick earthen walls and artificial vertical cliffs.

The portrait of Moriuji Ashina, from the database of Historiographical Institute, the University of Tokyo (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The imaginary drawing of Mukai-Haguroyama Castle, from the signboard at the site

Castle is abandoned after being followed by Several Loads

The Ashina Clan’s power decreased after Moriuji died in 1580 as his successors died young. Because of that, the clan and its senior vassals had to accommodate their new lord from a great warlord outside to maintain their territory. The candidates were ones from the Satake Clan and the Date Clan. As a result, they concluded that the successor would come from the Satake Clan, named Yoshihiro Ashina in 1587. However, this event caused a split in the clan, into the faction in power and the other supporting Date. In 1589, Masamune Date started to invade Ashina’s territory. Yoshihiro tried to repel the invasion, but many of his senior vassals, including the relative Inawashiro Clan, supported the Date’s side or left him. He was defeated by Masamune in the battle of Suriagehara and escaped form the Aizu area to his parents’ home. This battle resulted in Kurokawa Castle, the home base of the Ashina Clan being captured by Masamune and the clan’s destruction.

The portrait of Masamune Date, owned by Sendai City Museum, (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Mukai-Haguroyama Castle was followed by Masamune Ujisato Gamo, and Kagekatsu Uesugi like they used Kurokawa Castle (renamed to Wakamatsu Castle). This was because they still needed to use it as a final castle for emergencies like a battle. However, the castle was eventually abandoned after Kagekatsu was transferred to Yonezawa Castle in 1601 due to the defeat in the decisive battle in 1600 against Ieyasu Tokugawa who would be the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate.

The portrait of Ujisato Gamo, owned by Aizu Wakamatsu Library (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Kagekatsu Uesugi, owned by Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Mukai-Haguroyama Castle

To be continued in “Mukai-Haguroyama Part2”

111.向羽黒山城 その1

有力戦国大名となった葦名盛氏が次に行ったことは、家督を息子に譲り、隠居所として新しい城の建設を始めることでした。これが向羽黒山城となります。

立地と歴史

城の名前の由来

向羽黒山城(むかいはぐろやまじょう)は、現在の福島県の会津地域にあった城です。城や城跡ということに関しては、この地域は江戸時代に会津藩の本拠地であった若松城があることの方が余程知られています。しかし若松城は、以前は黒川城と呼ばれていて、葦名氏が所有していました。また葦名氏は、当時黒川城よりもっと大きい向羽黒山城をも有していました。向羽黒山城が築かれていた山は、もともと岩崎山と呼ばれていたため、城も最初は岩崎城と呼ばれていました。一方で、その山は向羽黒山とも呼ばれていて、羽黒山の向かいにある山という意味になります。これら2つの山は一列に並んでいるように見えるのでそういう名前になったのですが、やがて城の方も向羽黒山城と呼ばれるようになりました。

小田山城跡から見た若松城
小田山城跡から見た、左側が向羽黒山(岩崎山)、右側が羽黒山

葦名氏が会津地域に入植

葦名氏は元は、中世初期に鎌倉幕府の重臣であった三浦氏の支族の佐原氏の一族であり、相模国(現在の神奈川県)の三浦半島を根拠地としていました。鎌倉幕府を創業した源頼朝が1189年に東北地方を征伐した後、佐原氏はそのときの貢献により会津地方に領地を得ました。佐原氏の一部は会津に住み着き、苗字を変えて、猪苗代氏、北田氏、新宮氏といったように名乗りました。14世紀初頭に足利幕府が成立したとき、佐原氏の別の一族であった葦名氏は、会津地域を含む東北地方で大いに活躍し、自らのことを「会津管領」と称しました。その結果14世紀半ば頃に、葦名氏はその本拠地を三浦半島の葦名から会津に移し、新しく館を構え、小高木館(おたかきのたて)と呼ばれました。これが後の黒川城となります。

城の位置と葦名氏発祥の地

ところが、葦名氏は会津地域をそう簡単には統治できませんでした。ただ権威があるというだけでは、佐原氏出身の他の一族たちや地元領主たちが従わなかったからです。葦名氏は武威をもって彼らを従わせるか、そうでなければ武力を行使して倒すしかなかったのです。例えば、葦名氏は北田氏や新宮氏と戦ってこれらを滅亡させますが、彼らは皆同じ佐原一族でした。また一族の猪苗代氏とは戦いの末、猪苗代氏が葦名氏の重臣となることで決着しました。葦名氏はまた、伊達氏、二階堂氏、佐竹氏といった会津の外の有力大名たちが攻め込んでくるのも防ぐ必要がありました。葦名氏の当主は普段は平地である会津盆地の黒川城に住んでいました。また、会津盆地の脇、黒川城から約1.5km離れた小田山山上に小田山城を築き、緊急事態が起こったときのための詰めの城としました。このような平城と山城のコンビネーションは、戦国時代には日本のあちこちで見ることができます。小田山城は、葦名氏の墓地としても使われました。

黒川城周辺の起伏地図

小田山城跡(大手口)
葦名家寿山廟(墓地)跡

葦名盛氏が隠居所として向羽黒山城を築城

16世紀の中盤、葦名盛氏が当主であった頃、葦名氏の勢力は最高潮に達しました。盛氏の会津での統治は安定し、更には上杉謙信、武田信玄、伊達政宗といった他の地域の有力な戦国大名とも外交関係を結びました。これは、盛氏自身も有力戦国大名となったことを意味します。その次に彼が行ったことは、家督を息子に譲り、隠居所且つ小田山城の代替として、黒川城から約5km南のところに新しい城の建設を始めることでした。1861年のことで、これが向羽黒山城となります。しかし、この城は隠居所や建て替えにしては巨大すぎるもので、実際、盛氏は葦名氏の実権をまだ握っていて、城はまるで葦名氏の新しい本拠地のようでした。城の建設は8年間続き、1568年に完成しますが、結果東北地方では最大級の山城となりました。城は土造りで、当時の東日本では典型的なやり方でした。しかし、数えきれないほどの曲輪があり、深い空堀、厚い土塁、人工的な切岸など、自然の地形を加工した防御システムにより守られていました。

葦名盛氏肖像画、東京大学史料編纂所蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
向羽黒山城の想像図、現地説明板より

有力大名に引き継がれ遂に廃城

1580年に盛氏が亡くなった後は、葦名氏の勢力は衰えます。後継者が皆若死にしてしまったからです。そのため一族関係者と重臣たちは領地を守るため、次の当主を外部の有力戦国大名から迎えることにしました。候補者は、佐竹氏と伊達氏から挙げられましたが、結果的には佐竹氏から迎えることとし、その跡継ぎは1587年に葦名義広と名付けられました。ところがこのことは葦名家中の分裂を招き、伊達氏を支持する勢力が派生しました。1589年、伊達政宗は葦名領への侵攻を開始しました。義広は撃退しようとしますが、親族の猪苗代氏を含む多くの重臣たちは伊達に付くか、義広の元を去っていきました。結局、正宗との摺上原の戦いに敗れた義広は、会津から佐竹の実家の方に落ち延びていきました。その結果、葦名氏の本拠地、黒川城は政宗により占拠され、葦名氏は滅亡したのです。

伊達政宗肖像画、仙台市博物館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

向羽黒山城は、黒川城(若松城に改名されます)と同じように、伊達政宗、蒲生氏郷、上杉景勝によって引き継がれます。この城はまだ、戦のような非常事態が起こったときの詰めの城として必要とされたからです。しかし、1600年に景勝が、徳川幕府の創始者、徳川家康との天下分け目の戦に敗れ米沢城に転封となった後、いつしか廃城となりました。

蒲生氏郷肖像画、会津若松市立会津図書館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
上杉景勝肖像画、上杉神社蔵、江戸時代 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
向羽黒山城跡

「向羽黒山城その2」に続きます。

56.Takeda Castle Part1

Masahiro Saimura, who completed Takeda Castle, only earned 22 thousand koku of rice, which meant he could not afford to build great stone walls at the castle. It is considered that the construction of castle was backed up by Hideyoshi.

Location and History

Famous for Castle in Sky

Takeda Castle was located on Torafusu-yama or the Sitting-Tiger Mountain (at 354m above the sea level) in Tajima Province which is now the northern part of Hyogo Prefecture. The ruins of Takeda Castle recently became very popular among not only history fans but also general tourists as a Castle in the Sky. The ruins don’t have any buildings but their great stone walls remain on the high mountain, which look like they are floating on a sea of clouds when there are certain weather conditions in the morning in autumn to winter. It is also called the Machu Picchu in Japan. The Castle in the Sky is an attraction in the present time and you need to go further away from the castle ruins to see it. However, the nickname also came from the castle’s history and location.

A photo of Takeda Castle in the Sky, from the signboard at the site

Yamana Clan first builds Castle

Tajima Province is not popular among the present generation because the province was small and finally merged to become Hyogo Prefecture. However, it was very important in the past because of its location. In many years of the Middle Ages, the Yamana Clan owned several provinces in the northern part of the Chugoku Region or also called the Sanin Area. Tajima Province was the eastern edge of Yamana’s territory and had borders with Harima and Tanba Provinces. That’s why the Yamana Clan first built Takeda Castle around the 15th Century as a base of offence and defense. At that time, building castles on a high mountain was popular for lords to protect themselves. These castles including Takeda Castle were all made of soil, at that time, they didn’t use stone walls.

The range of Tajima province and the location of the castle

The situation became more complex in the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period when many battles happened. The power of the Yamana Clan decreased while other lords outside Tajima Province wanted to get more territory. For example, in 1571, Suketoyo Yamana, the lord of the clan invaded Tanba Province, however, it was counterattacked and Takeda Castle was temporarily captured by Naomasa Ogino from Kuroi Castle of Tanba in 1575. Suketomo thought he would also ask for help from the strongest warlord, such as Nobunaga Oda and the Mori Clan depending on the situation to maintain his territory. However, when Nobunaga sent troops led by Hidenaga (Toyotomi) Hashiba who was the little brother of Hideyoshi Hashiba, the later ruler of Japan, to Tajima Province in 1577, Nobunaga gained control of Takeda Castle (it is uncertain if it was caused by a battle or a surrender). After Nobunaga died in 1582, when Hideyoshi became the ruler, he ordered Hidenaga to stay and improved Takeda Castle. It could be because Ikuno Silver Mine was there, which made the owner very rich, near the castle. It is thought that building the stone walls on the top started then. The improvement was followed by Masahiro Saimura, another retainer of Hideyoshi, when Hidenaga moved to Wakayama Castle in 1585.

The family crest of the Yamana Clan   (licensed by Houunji 1642 via Wikimedia Commons)
The illustration of Naomasa, from the signboard at the site of Kuroi Castle Ruins
The portrait of Hidenaga Toyotomi, owned by Shungakuin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Masahiro Saimaura completes Castle

Masahiro was originally called Hirohide Akamatsu, a local lord in Tatsuno Castle, Harima Province. He surrendered to Hideyoshi when Hideyoshi invaded Harima Province in 1577, however, Hideyoshi took away his castle so that he had to become Hideyoshi’s retainer. Masahiro worked hard for Hideyoshi to get his original territory back some day. As a result, Hideyoshi gave Masahiro a territory, not in Tatsuno, but with Takeda Castle. Masahiro’s territory only earned 22 thousand koku of rice, which meant he could not afford to build great stone walls at Takeda Castle. It is considered that the construction of castle was backed up by Hideyoshi. Masahiro continued to contribute to Hideyoshi, such as joining the invasion of Korea, ordered by Hideyoshi. It is said that some gate structures of Takeda Castle were reflected by those of Japanese Castles in Korea, built for the invasion.

The family crest of the Akamatsu Clan   (licensed by KfskzsuRPkwt via Wikimedia Commons)
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The great stone walls of Takeda Castle on the mountain

Takeda Castle was built on the mountain with three ridges; long ones in the north and the south, and a short one in the southwest. The Main Enclosure was on the top and had the Main Tower, but its details are unknown. Each ridge had several enclosures including a large one which could accommodate soldiers and supplies. The edge of the ridges was open to the outside, but was also protected strictly by a defensive gate. They were all surrounded by great stone walls, piled using natural or roughly processed stones in a method called Nozura-zumi. A professional stone-piling guild was called in to do this. One of the advanced things of this castle’s layout was that it included bypass routes between the three ridges. The defenders could move from one to another smoothly so that they were able to respond to enemies’ attacks flexibly.

The aerial photo around the castle

The stone wall base for the Main Tower of Takeda Castle

Abrupt ending of Masahiro and Castle

Masahiro usually lived in his Main Hall at the foot while developing the castle town. He was also interested in Chinese studies and communicated with domestic Confucians and a high-class Korean official. It is said that he also built a shrine to Confucianism in the castle on the mountain. However, the lives of he and his castle suddenly ended. In the crucial battle between the East Squad led by Ieyasu Tokugawa and the West Squad led by Mitsunari Ishida which happened in 1600, Masahiro joined the West Squad. When Masahiro heard about Mitsunari being defeated by Ieyasu at Sekigahara field, he switched to support the East Squad. He burned the castle town around Tottori Castle where another lord supporting the West Squad lived, to show his loyalty to Ieyasu. However, Ieyasu’s decision was to force Masahiro to kill himself by performing Harakiri to put the responsibility of the burning on him. This was an incomprehensible conclusion, but some historians speculate that Ieyasu and his Tokugawa Shogunate also wanted to secure Ikuno Silver Mine by removing possible rebels like Masahiro.

The ruins of Tottori Castle
The ruins of Akamatsu Hachiman Shine at Tottori, where Masahiro was worshiped

To be continued in “Takeda Castle Part2”

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