78.Marugame Castle Part1

A castle covered with great stone walls with advanced technology

Location and History

It starts as Branch of Takamatsu Castle

Marugame Castle was located on a mountain called Kame-yama which means tortoise mountain in the western part of the Sanuki Plain of Sanuki Province (what is now Kagawa Prefecture). The part of the plain has several mountains that stood out like a projection, for example, Ino-yama Mountain is known for its beautiful appearance as Sanuki-Fuji. Kame-yama Mountain is one of the mountains and much lower than the Sanuki- Fuji ( 66m vs 422m), but was more convenient for the warriors to build a castle on it.

The location of the castle

The relief map around the castle

The Sanuki- Fuji

It is said that the Nara Clan first built a fortress on Kame-yama Mountan, but a castle named Marugame Castle was built on the mountain by the Ikoma Clan in 1597. The Ikoma Clan governed Sanuki Province under the Toyotomi Clan and the Tokugawa Shogunate later between 1587 and 1640. Marugame Castle was a branch castle of Takamatsu Castle which was the home base of the Ikoma Clan. However, Marugame Castle was once abandoned in 1615 in accordance with the Law of One Castle per Province by the Tokugawa Shogunate. The castle had unfortunately been destroyed as we found the wreckage of the old stone walls when the excavation was done.

The portrait of Chikamasa Ikoma, the founder of the clan, owned by Kokenji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Takamatsu Castle

Rebuilt by Yamazaki Clan and Kyogoku Clan

After the Ikoma Clan was transferred to another due to their internal trouble in 1641, the Yamazaki Clan was given the western part of Sanuki Province by the Tokugawa Shogunate. The Yamazaki Clan was allowed to rebuild Marugame Castle for their new home base. They built the high stone walls with three tiers covering all around Kame-yama Mountain. The stone walls were also built with advanced technology and very valuable because building a new castle was basically not allowed at that time. The re-construction continued for 30 years. The Yamazaki Clan was unfortunately fired by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1657 during the construction because they had no successor. The Kyogoku Clan following the Yamazaki Clan completed the construction building the Main Tower by 1663.

The Main Tower and high stone walls of Marugame Castle
The portrait of Takakazu Kyogoku, who was transferred to Marugame Castle, owned by Marugame Municipal Archives Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

It looks like Stone Fortress

The final appearance of Marugame Castle was as the following. The Main Enclosure, the Second Enclosure and the Third Enclosure were on the mountain. All the enclosures were surrounded by the stone walls making the very high ones stick together. The Main Enclosure, which was at highest, had the Main Tower and the four Corner Turrets connected with the roofed passages called Tamon or the mud walls. The Second and Third Enclosures were below the Main Enclosure and they also had several turrets. The Inner Moat surrounded the mountain, the Main Gate was just inside the moat in the north, and the Back Gate was in the south. In addition, warriors’ houses were built outside the Inner Moat and were also surrounded by the Outer Moat.

The miniature model of Marugame Castle, exhibited by Marugame Castle Main Tower
The Main Gate and Inner Moat of Marugame Castle
Part of the illustration of Marugame Castle in Sanuki Province, in the Edo Period, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

The Kyogoku Clan governed Marugame Castle and the Marugame Domain until the end of the Edo Period. In fact, the lord of the castle lived in the Main Hall at the foot of the mountain. That was a common way for the lords of the castles in peaceful time. Anyway, Marugame Castle must have looked like a stone fortress.

The ruins of the Main Hall at the foot of the mountain (taken by あけび from photoAC)

To be continued in “Marugame Castle Part2”

78.丸亀城 その1

先進的で素晴らしい石垣に覆われた城

立地と歴史

高松城の支城としてスタート

丸亀城は、讃岐国(現在の香川県)の讃岐平野の西部に位置する亀山と呼ばれる山上に築かれました。この平野の一部には、突起のような山がいくつかあり、例えば、飯野山はその美しい姿から讃岐富士として知られています。亀山は、それらの山のうちの一つですが、讃岐富士よりはずっと低い(標高が66m対422m)ものの、武士たちが城を築くには絶好の場所でした。

城の位置

城周辺の起伏地図

讃岐富士

奈良氏が亀山の上に砦を築いたのが最初と言われていますが、1597年に生駒氏が丸亀城という名前で城を築きました。生駒氏は、1587年から1640年までの間、豊臣氏とその後は徳川幕府に従うことで讃岐国を支配していました。丸亀城は、生駒氏の本拠地である高松城の支城だったのです。そして、1615年には徳川幕府から発せられた一国一城令により、一時廃城となってしまいます。城は不幸にも破壊されてしまい、その古い石垣の残骸が現代の発掘により見つかっています。

生駒氏の初代、生駒親正肖像画、弘憲寺蔵  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
高松城

山崎氏、京極氏により再建

1641年に生駒氏がお家騒動が原因で他に転封となった後、山崎氏が徳川幕府により讃岐国の西半分を与えられました。そして山崎氏は、新しい本拠地として丸亀城の再築を許可されたのです。亀山の周り中に三段の石垣が築かれました。その石垣は当時の最新の技術によって築かれ、それは貴重なものとなりました。当時は、新しい城を築くことは原則として認められなかったからです。この再建工事は30年間続きました。山崎氏は、跡継ぎがなかったことで工事中の1657年に徳川幕府により不幸にも改易されてしまいます。山崎氏の後釜となった京極氏が、1663年までに天守を築き、工事を完成させました。

丸亀城の天守と高石垣
丸亀城に移された京極高知肖像画、丸亀市立資料館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

石垣で固められた要塞

丸亀城の最終型は、以下のようになっていました。山の上には、本丸、二の丸、三の丸がありました。これら全ての曲輪は石垣で覆われ、山の高い位置で一体化していました。本丸は、最も高い位置にあり、天守と4基の隅櫓が多聞と土壁により連結されていました。二の丸と三の丸は本丸よりも低い位置にあり、ここにも櫓が何基かありました。内堀は山を囲んでいました。大手門は北側の内堀のすぐ内側にあり、搦手門は南側にありました。更には、武家屋敷が内堀の外側に建設され、ここもまた外堀により囲まれていました。

丸亀城の模型(丸亀城天守内で展示)
丸亀城の大手門と内堀
讃岐国丸亀絵図部分、江戸時代(出展:国立公文書館)

京極氏は、丸亀城と丸亀藩を江戸時代の終わりまで統治しました。実は、城の城主は山裾にある御殿に住んでいました。これは平和な時代においては通常のやり方でした。いずれにせよ、丸亀城は石造りの要塞のように見えていたことでしょう。

山裾にあった御殿跡 (taken by あけび from photoAC)

「丸亀城その2」に続きます。

135.Masuyama Castle Part1

An important mountain castle in Ecchu Province

Location and History

Ecchu Province in Sengoku Period

Masuyama Castle was a large mountain castle which was located in Ecchu Province (what is now modern day Toyama Prefecture). In the first 16th Century, Ecchu Province didn’t have a strong warlord, but was divided between the Jinbo Clan, the Shina Clan, the Ikkoshu Sect and others. The province had the Toyama Plain in the center, which was surrounded by hills in the south, the east and the west. They built a lot of mountain castles on the area of the hills to maintain their territories. Masuyama Castle was called one of the three greatest mountain castles in Ecchu Province followed by Moriyama Castle and Matsukura Castle.

The location of the castle

Masuyama Castle was located on the western edge of the hills sticking out of the Toyama Plain from the south. The Wada-gawa River flowed alongside the edge, so it could be a natural water moat. There were a lot of enclosures on the hill such as the First Enclosure and the Second Enclosure.

The relief map around the castle

The map around the castle

Defensive system of Masuyama Castle

To protect these enclosures, the castle had several defensive systems using natural terrains like ridges, cliffs and valleys. For example, some ridges were cut artificially to look like a trench, called Horikiri. Some cliffs were cut vertically, called Kirigishi. Some valleys were used as the dry moats called Karabori.

A typical defensive system of mountain castles (from the signboard at the site)

The soldiers could also get water from several wells easily in order to survive a long siege. Other castles such as Kameyama Castle were built on the hill next to Masuyama Castle so that they could work closely with each other. Even the castle town was developed on the foot of the mountain castle at its peak.

The imaginary drawing of Masuyama Castle

Kenshin Uesugi attacked it three times

It is uncertain when the castle was first built, but the Jinbo Clan owned the castle in the middle of the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. In 1560, a great warlord by the name of Kenshin Uesugi invaded Ecchu Province and supporting the Shina Clan from Echigo Province (The east of Ecchu Province). The Jinbo Clan was sieged in Masuyama Castle to protect themselves. Kenshin wrote in his letter that Masuyama was an essentially dangerous place and impenetrable with lots of defenders. Kenshin attacked Masuyama Castle three times, and finally captured it in 1576.

上杉謙信肖像画、上杉神社蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

After Kenshin died in 1578, Narimasa Sassa under the Oda Clan took over Masuyama Castle from the Uesugi Clan in 1581. After that, the Maeda Clan supporting the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi and the Tokugawa Shogunate later owned the castle. Some senior vassals from the Maeda Clan stayed in the castle. That meant Masuyama Castle was always an important castle to rule that area. However, the castle was finally abandoned in 1615 due to the Law of One Castle per Province created by the Tokugawa Shogunate. It was said that a wife of the senior vassal who was called Sho-hime was also a daughter of Toshiie Maeda, the founder of the Maeda Clan who managed the castle around the end of its history.

The portrait of Narimasa Sassa, owned by Toyama Municipal Folk Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Toshiie Maeda, the founder of the Maeda Clan, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Masuyama Castle Part2”