132.Takada Castle Part1

A castle protected by earthen walls and water moats

Location and History

Tadateru Matsudaira built it shortly

Takada Castle was located in Echigo Province (what is now Nigata Province). The Uesgi Clan at Ksugayama Castle owned the province in the late 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. After the clan was transferred to another province, the province was divided by several lords at the beginning of the 17th Century. One of them was the Hori Clan which owned the western part of the province and lived in Fukushima Cstle. However, Hori Clan was fired by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1610. Instead, Tadateru Matsudaira, a son of Ieyasu Tokugawa, the founder of the Shogunate was sent to the castle. He and the Shogunate felt they required a stronger castle, because the tension between the Shogunate and the Toyoyomi Clan got higher. They needed to monitor non-hereditary feudal lords who possibly supported the Toyotomi Clan. The new castle would be called Takada Castle.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Tadateru Matsudaira, owned by the Joetsu City History Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The construction for the castle began in March 1614, and was almost completed in just four months, before the battle between the Shogunate and the Toyotomi Clan happened in October. The Shogunate mobilized thirteen lords including Tadateru’s father-in-law, Masamune Date for the construction. Maybe for the short construction period, Takada Castle had several features. The foundation of the castle was completely made of soil, not using stone walls which were common for building castles at that time. A Main Tower, which was also popular for castles, was not built, the Three-story Turret was built instead.

The remaining earthen walls at the Main Enclosure
The rebuilt Three Story Turret

Protected by Wide Water Moats and High Earthen Walls

However, there was no shortcuts in the construction. The wide and long water moats were built using the flow of several rivers. As a result, the castle was surrounded by the Inner Moat, the Outer Moat, and the opposite flowing rivers. The Third Enclosure was in the Outer Moat, the Second Enclosure was inside the Outer Moat, and The Main Enclosure was inside the Inner Moat. Visitors from the Main Gate outside the Third Enclosure had to go across three bridges to reach the Main Enclosure. Even the clay walls were as high as10m, so the castle had sufficient defense.

The miniature model of Takada Castle (the Joetsu City History Museum)
The earthen walls are still surrounding the Main Enclosure

Lords of Castle were changed several times

Tadateru was one of the 10 lords who had the largest territories in Japan at that
time, however, he was fired by the Shogunate in 1616 for unknown reasons, after the Shogunate eliminated the Toyotomi Clan in 1615. Though it is said that he was rude to his father, it may be due to an internal trouble in the Shogunate. He was exiled at Takashima Castle until he died at the age of 92 in 1683.

Takashima Castle

After some years, Mitsunaga Matsudaira governed the castle for 57 years. He improved farming and business while developing the castle town and transportation. The castle town had become the city area of Joetsu City. However, he was fired by the Shogunate as well in 1681 due to the internal trouble for his successor.

The draft map of Takada Castle, drawn in 1737 (Joetsu City Buried Cultural Property Center)

The aerial photo around the castle and the city area

After that, several clans governed the castle and the area around the Takada Domain. This area has been known for a city having heavy snow, so some people from other areas seemed to have trouble living and communicating. The last lord of the castle was the Sakakibara Clan which owned it from the mid 18th Century to the Meiji Restoration in the late 19th Century.

The present city area covered with snow (taken by v-pro from photoAC)
The Sakaki Shrine which worships Yasumasa Sakakibara, the founder of the Sakakibara Clan

To be continued in “Takada Castle Part2”

132.高田城 その1

土塁と水堀によって守られた城

立地と歴史

松平忠輝が短期間で築城

高田城は越後国(現在の新潟県)にありました。戦国時代の16世紀には、春日山城にいた上杉氏がこの国を領有していました。上杉氏が他の国に転封となった後、17世紀初めにはこの国はいくつかの大名により分割されました。その内の一つが堀氏で、越後国西部を領有し、福島城に住んでいました。しかし、堀氏は1610年に徳川幕府により改易となってしまいます。その代わりに徳川幕府の創始者である徳川家康の息子、松平忠輝が福島城に送られてきました。彼と幕府はもっと強力な城を必要としていました。幕府と豊臣氏との間の緊張が高まっており、豊臣氏に味方するかもしれない外様大名を監視する必要がありました。その新しい城が高田城だったのです。

城の位置

松平忠輝肖像画、上越市立歴史博物館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

城の建設は1614年の3月に始まり、その年の10月に幕府と豊臣氏との戦いが起こる前に、わずか4ヶ月間でほぼ完成しました。幕府はこの建設のために、忠輝の義理の父親である伊達政宗を含む13家の大名を動員しました。この短い工事期間のためか、高田城にはいくつかの特徴がありました。城の基礎部分は、その当時の築城で通常使われていた石垣ではなく、完全に土だけで作られました。同じく他の城でよく見られた天守も築かれませんでした。その代わりに三階櫓が建てられました。

本丸に残る土塁
復興された三階櫓

広大な堀と高い土塁で防御

しかしながら、工事に手抜きがあった訳ではありません。いくつもの川の流れを利用して広大な水堀が作られました。その結果、城は内堀、外堀、そして流れを変えられた川によって囲まれることになりました。三の丸は外堀の中に、二の丸は外堀の内側に、本丸は内堀の内側に配置されました。三の丸の外側にある大手道から城に入ろうとすると、本丸に着くまでに3つの橋を渡らねばなりませんでした。また、土塁であっても10mもの高さがあり、そのためこの城は十分な防御力を備えていたのです。

高田城の模型(上越市立歴史博物館)
今も土塁に囲まれている本丸

領主が次々に交替

忠輝はその当時の日本では10人の大大名の内の一人でした。ところが、1615年に幕府が豊臣氏を滅亡させた後、1616年に忠輝は幕府から不確かな理由で改易されてしまいます。彼が父親に対して不遜な態度をとったとか、幕府内で内紛があったなどと言われています。忠輝は高島城に幽閉され、1683年に92歳で亡くなるまでそこで過ごしました。

高島城

それから何年か後、松平光長が57年に渡って城を治めました。彼は農業や商業を振興し、城下町や交通網の整備を行いました。城下町は現在の上越市の市街地となっています。ところが、跡継ぎをめぐるお家騒動により、彼もまた1681年に改易となってしまいます。

高田城下絵図、1737年作成、上越市立高田図書館蔵(上越市埋蔵文化財センター)

現在の城と市街地の航空写真

その後、いくつかの大名がこの城と高田藩の地域を支配しました。この地域は大雪が降る都市として知られており、他の地域から来た人にとっては、生活や付き合いに苦労があったようです。この城の最後の城主は榊原氏で、18世紀中盤から19世紀後半の明治維新まで城を所有していました。

雪に覆われた現在の市街地 (taken by v-pro from photoAC)
榊原氏の藩祖、榊原康政を祀る榊神社

「高田城その2」に続きます。

32.Kasugayama Castle Part1

The castle of Kenshin Uesugi, the strongest warlord

Location and History

Kenshin Uesugi, Warlord who respected Justice

Kasugayama Caste was located in Echigo Province (what is now Nigata Prefecture), facing the Japan Sea. The castle is well known for one of its lords, Kenshin Uesugi. Kenshin is said to be the strongest warlord in the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. While he fought over 70 battles during his 49-year life, he suffered no obvious defeat.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Kenshin Uesugi, owned by the Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Kenshin also had very unique perspectives which other warlords never had. He never fought to invade other provinces by himself. He only fought with the help of others who were defeated by another warlord. As a result, he fought with a great warlord, Shingen Takeda 5 times on the south of his province. He also went over the mountains to the Kanto Region facing the Pacific Ocean to fight with the Hojo Clan as many as 17 times. Kenshin was a devout Buddhist, remained single all his life, and prayed for victory at the Bishamon-do Hall several days before his battles. He once escaped from the castle and tried to become a Buddhist priest, but his retainers urged him to go back to the castle until he gave up trying to become a priest.

The statues of Shingen Takeda (on the left) and Kenshin Uesugi (on the right) at the Kawanakajima Battlefield (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The restored Bishamon-do Hall

Despite Kenshin’s strength, he was not able to become a ruler. Every time he withdrew from a province after his win, his enemies got their territories back. He is sometimes criticized by historians. However, many history fans still love him as a warlord who respected justice.

The flag of Kenshin Uesugi (taken by 松波庄九郎 from photoAC)

Castle covered with Enclosures and Buildings.

Kasugayama Castle was built using earthworks on an 189m high mountain beside the Kubiki Plain, the western part of Nigata Pref. It is uncertain when the castle was first built, but Tamekage Nagao, Kenshin’s father, improved the castle. The scale of the castle became larger in Kenshin’s period, and the mountain was covered with uncountable enclosures and buildings.

The old drawing of Kasugayama Castle  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The castle consisted of three parts at that time. The main portion of the castle was on the top of the mountain with the front facing the plain on the east. It included the Main Enclosure, the Bisyamon-do Hall, a senior vassal Naoe’s Hall, and Halls for Kenshin’s two adopted sons, Kagekatsu and Kagetora. Next, the Main Route went up from the southeast foot of the mountain to the top. It was a long detour around the mountain, passing the guard house and other senior vassals’ halls such as Kakizaki. Lastly, the Back Route also went up from the northeast foot to Naoe’s Hall. It passed through the Kurogane-mon Gate, the Hall for the Lord, the Sengan-mon Gate and the alternate entrance called Koguchi.

The georama of Kasugayama Castle at Joetsu City Buried Cultural Property Center

The castle might not have had complex defense systems, but it had the network of the branch castles, such as Samegao Castle, to work together when a battle happened.

The network of the branch castles around Kasugayama Castle (Joetsu City Buried Cultural Property Center)

Abandoned at Peaceful Time

After Kenshin died in 1578, an internal battle unfortunately happened in the castle between Kagekatsu and Kagetora. Kagekatsu finally won, but he was transferred to Wakamatsu Castle by the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi in 1598. After that, the Hori Clan governed the castle, building the outer earthen walls called So-gamae to make the castle the largest. However, the clan moved to Fukushima Castle on the plain for convenience of governance in 1607. Kasugayama Castle was abandoned at the same time.

The portrait of Kagekatsu Uesugi, owned by Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The restored outer earthen walls

To be continued in “Kasugayama Castle Part2”