130.Takashima Castle Part1

A castle once at lakeside

Location and History

Suwa Area and Suwa Clan with Long History

Suwa Area of Nagano Prefecture is famous for its tourist spots like Suwa Lake and Suwa-taisha Shrine which are related to Takashima Castle. The shrine is said to have originated from a god in the oldest remaining history book called Kojiki. The god was also supposed to be the origin of the Suwa Clan that had been the lord of Suwa District of Shinano Province (same as now Suwa Area) and “Ohori” or the highest rank of the saints in Shinto at the shrine until the first 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. They still lived in other mountain castles.

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Takashima Castle
Leaflet|国土地理院
The aerial photo around Suwa Lake

Suwa-taisha Shrine (licensed by Saigen Jiro via Wikimedia Commons)

Invasion by Shingen Takeda

Shingen Takeda, one of the greatest warlords of Kai Province next to Shinano Province, aimed to invade the province. He defeated the Suwa Clan in 1542 and governed Suwa District. The Takeda Clan was also defeated by Nobunaga Oda in 1582. However, there was a confusion in the district when Nobunaga was killed in the same year. People in the district invited one of the Suwa Clan’s relatives who remained as Ohori at Suwa-taisha Shrine as their new lord, Yoritada Suwa.

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Takashima Castle
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The ranges of Shinano Province and Suwa District (the highlighted part)

The portrait of Shingen Takeda, owned by Jimyo-in Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Takayoshi Hineno built Takashima Castle

When Hideyoshi Toyotomi gained the power at the end of the 16th Century, he sent his retainer, Takayoshi Hineno to Suwa District. Yoritada Suwa was regretfully transferred to another province however. Takayoshi built a new castle alongside Suwa Lake called Takashima Castle bringing advanced techniques for that time from western Japan. The castle had four enclosures in a line facing the lake. Only one route was accessible to the enclosure at the edge of the castle. That means the castle could be very defensive.

The layout of Takashima Castle (licensed by Fraxinus2 via Wikimedia Commons)

The Main Enclosure was surrounded by stone walls which must have been very difficult to build them on the lakeside. They were actually built on wooden rafts in order to be stable even on the soft ground. The Main Enclosure also had the three-story Main Tower which was rare for eastern Japan at that time. The tower had a wood strip roofing different from other castles which usually used roof tiles. This is because the wooden tiles made the weight of the tower lighter on the soft ground and were more durable against the cold climate of the area.

The Main Enclosure surrounded by the stone walls
The old photo of the original Main Tower, exhibited by Suwa Takashima Castle

Suwa Clan revived and maintained Castle

In 1601 after the Tokugawa Shogunate gained the power instead of the Toyotomi Clan, the Suwa Clan came back to Suwa District. They supported the Shogunate very well in the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600. Yoritada Suwa’s son, Yorimizu became the lord of Takashima Domain and lived in Takashima Castle. In the peaceful time during the Edo Period, a view of the castle with Suwa Lake became a popular attraction in the area, called “the floating castle of Suwa”. Some Ukiyo-e artists such as Hokusai Katsushika drew paintings of the scenery for their Ukiyo-e or woodblock prints. On the other hand, the reclamation of Suwa Lake was done to make more farms and to prevent floods through the Edo Period. Takashima Castle was moving away far from the lake.

The Suwa Clan’s family crest, Suwa Kajinoha or Paper mulberry leaves of Suwa (licensed by Mukai via Wikimedia Commons)
”Suwa Lake in Shinano Province” from the series “Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji” attributed to Hokusai Katsushika in the Edo Period (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Takashima Castle Part2”

130.高島城 その1

かつては湖畔にあった城

立地と歴史

古い歴史を持つ諏訪地域と諏訪氏

長野県の諏訪地域は、諏訪湖や諏訪大社のような観光地で有名ですが、いずれも高島城と関係があります。諏訪大社は日本最古の歴史書である古事記に出てくる神様に由来すると言われています。その神様は、諏訪氏の祖先であるとも言われており、諏訪氏は戦国時代の16世紀前半まで諏訪郡(現在の諏訪地域と同じ範囲)の領主であり、諏訪大社の大祝(おおほうり)でもありました。そしてその頃は山城に居住していました。

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高島城
Leaflet|国土地理院
諏訪湖周辺の航空写真

諏訪大社 (licensed by Saigen Jiro via Wikimedia Commons)

武田信玄による侵攻

信濃国(現在の長野県)のとなり、甲斐国(現在の山梨県)の有力な戦国大名、武田信玄は信濃国に侵攻しようとします。彼は諏訪氏を1542年に滅ぼし、諏訪郡を支配しました。武田氏は1582年に織田信長により滅ぼされますが、信長は同じ年に殺されてしまい混乱が訪れます。諏訪郡の人々は、諏訪大社の大祝であった諏訪氏の親族を新しい領主、諏訪頼忠として迎え入れました。

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高島城
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
信濃国の範囲と諏訪郡の位置(ハイライト部分)

武田信玄肖像画、高野山持明院蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

日根野高吉が築城

16世紀の終わりに豊臣秀吉が権力を握ったとき、彼は配下の日根野高吉を諏訪郡に送り込みました。諏訪頼忠は無念にも別の国に転封となってしまいます。高吉は、西日本から当時最先端であった技術を持ち込み、諏訪湖の畔に新しい城を築き、高島城と名付けました。この城は4つの曲輪を持ち、湖に面して一列に並んでいました。一本の道が一番端にある曲輪に通じているだけで、城を守るのに適していました。

高島城の縄張り (licensed by Fraxinus2 via Wikimedia Commons)

本丸は石垣に囲まれていましたが、湖畔に築くのにはとても困難が伴いました。その石垣は実は木組みの筏の上に築かれ、軟弱な地盤でも安定するようになっていました。本丸には三層の天守もあり、その当時の東日本ではまだ珍しいものでした。また、他の城では通常天守の屋根には瓦を使っていましたが、ここの天守の屋根は杮葺きとなっていました。その理由は、木製の屋根板により軟弱な地盤上の天守を軽くすることができ、更にこの地域の寒冷な気候にも耐えることができたからです。

石垣に囲まれた本丸
元あった天守の古写真(諏訪高島城にて展示)

諏訪氏が復活して城を維持

徳川幕府が豊臣氏に代わり天下を取った後の1601年、諏訪氏は諏訪郡に戻ってきました。1600年の関ヶ原の戦いのときに幕府に大いに貢献したからです。諏訪頼忠の子、頼水は高島藩の藩主となり、高島城に居を構えました。平和な江戸時代の間、諏訪湖にたたずむ高島城の姿は、この地域の名所となり「諏訪の浮き城」と呼ばれました。葛飾北斎などの浮世絵師がこの景色を画材として描きました。一方、農地開発と洪水防止のため、諏訪湖の干拓が江戸時代を通じて行われました。高島城は湖から遠ざかっていきます。

諏訪氏の家紋「諏訪梶葉(すわかじのは)」 (licensed by Mukai via Wikimedia Commons)
葛飾北斎「富嶽三十六景」より「信州諏訪湖」、江戸時代

「高島城その2」に続きます。

30.Takato Castle Part1

The stage for the battle of Takato Castle

Location and History

Castle for governing Ina District

Takato Castle was located in Shinano Province (what is now Nagano Prefecture). The Province was very large, so people often considered it as a group of districts. Ina District was the southern part of the province with a long valley terrain from the north to the south sandwiched by mountains. That’s why people also often call the district the Ina Valley. The valley connected the center of the province such as Suwa District and other provinces in the south such as Mikawa Province. That means Ina District was very important for transportation and governance. Takato Castle was on the edge of the mountains on the east of the valley, which was a good location to govern the district.

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Takato Castle
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The ranges of Shinano Province and Ina District (the highlighted part)

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Takato Castle
Leaflet|国土地理院
The relief map around the castle

Improved by Takeda Clan

The Takato Clan, a local warlord first lived in Takato Castle in the first 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. In 1545, The Takeda Clan of Kai Province from the east capture the castle in the process of invading Shinano Province. Since then, The Takeda Clan sent their relatives as the lords of the castle, such as Katsuyori Takeda who became the last lord of the clan later. They improved the castle during their governance.

The Portrait of Katsuyori Takeda, ownd by Koyasan Jimyoin (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The foundation of castle was built using only soil. The edge of the mountains where the castle was located was surrounded by the Mibu and Fujisawa Rivers in the north, south and west. The mountains in the east were visible through the Back Gate. The Main Gate was at the western side of the castle, facing a steep slope. In addition, the castle was protected by tripled moats. The Main Enclosure was inside the Inner Moat, the Second Enclosure was inside the Middle Moat, and the Third Enclosure was inside the Outer Moat.

Part of the illustration of Takato Castle in Shinano Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

Battle of Takato Castle happens

In 1582, the Battle of Takato Castle between the Takeda Clan and the Oda Clan happened. Nobunaga Oda, unifying the whole country sent his son, Nobutada Oda with about 50,000 soldiers to Takeda’s territory. On the other hand, Morinobu Nishina, Katsuyori’s little brother was in the castle with only 3,000 defenders. Katsuyori, who was at Shinpu Castle about 70km east of Takato Castle, tried to help his brother, but couldn’t. Because most of his vassals betrayed or escaped before the Takeda Clan was defeated. Morinobu didn’t surrender and had to fight with Oda without help. Nobutada himself instructed his troops and charged into both gates of the castle, while the defenders including women fought a desperate defensive battle. However, they were outnumbered, and the castle finally fell in one day. This battle is regarded as the only resistance during the Oda’s invasion into Takeda’s territory.

The portrait of Nobutada Oda, owned by Sokenji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Morinobu Nishina, owned by Takato Historical Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Maintained by Takato Domain

There was confusion after Nobunaga’s sudden death, a former Takeda’s retainer, the Hoshina Clan got Takato Castle and became the first lord of the Takato Domain in the Edo Period. The castle also became the government building of the domain. The castle for the domain followed the layout of Takeda’s period, but some turrets and plaster walls were built as a castle in the Early Modern Times. The Hoshina Clan accepted the second Shogun’s son named Masayuki as their successor. He also became a senior vassal of the Tokugawa Shogunate and contributed the stabilization of its governance. He was lastly promoted to the lord of Wakamatsu Castle at Aizu Domain. Takato Castle and Takato Domain were followed by the Torii Clan and finally the Naito Clan. The Naito Clan governed them for a long time between 1691 and 1871.

The portrait of Masayuki Hoshina, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Hanitsu Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Takato Castle Part2”