56.Takeda Castle Part2

The current tourist route is very similar to the bypass route the castle originally had. Hence, the route for the defenders of the castle in the past makes it possible for current visitors of the ruins to move smoothly as well.

Features

Well-developed Castle Ruins

Today, the ruins of Takeda Castle have been well developed to maintain them and control many visitors. If you want to drive to the ruins, you need to park at a tourist facility called “Yamajiro-no-sato” (or “the Village of the Mountain Castle”) and get to the ruins by a taxi, a bus, or walking. Even if you use a taxi, you will still need to walk the last kilometer from where you are dropped off to the ticket office, the entrance of the ruins. The path to the entrance is paved, but the terrain of the mountain is steep and rough when you walk along this path. You may wonder why and how the builders built a castle with great stone walls on such a mountain.

The map around the castle

The tourist facility
Everyone must walk from here
You can see very steep and rough slopes beside the path
Arriving at the ticket office

In the ruins, the tour routes are set one way and the range for visitors to walk around is also limited by poles and ropes. The stone walls and the foundations of the castle look well maintained. This is done by officials closing the ruins for a certain period of time to repair them every year. These activities contribute to keep the ruins in a good condition as well as securing the safety of visitors. For instance, visitors first enter the entrance of Kita-Senjo (meaning Northern 1,000 mat Enclosure in Japanese) at the edge of the northern ridge, then, walk on the ridge, pass the side of the stone wall base for the Main Tower at the Main Enclosure, walk on the southern ridge, and finally get out from the edge of it. This route is very similar to the bypass route the castle originally had. Hence, the route for the defenders of the castle in the past makes it possible for current visitors of the ruins to move smoothly as well.

The map around the castle

You can’t access the edge of an enclosure at the site

Entrances and routes are strictly protected

To get back to the entrance at the edge of the northern ridge, it has a defensive square space surrounded by high stone walls, called “Masugata”. It also had gate buildings on it, where the defenders would attack enemies outside by using guns and arrows. If the enemies reached the gate, they would be locked in the Masugata system.

The entrance of the castle ruins
The Masugata system at the edge of the northern ridge (called the Main Gate at the site)
The Masugata system seen from the inside

Inside the entrance, there is the extensive Kita-Senjo Enclosure, where as the name suggests, could accommodate lots of soldiers and supplies in the past, or tourist groups and events in the present.

The Kita-senjo Enclosure
A view around the enclosure
The Third Enclosure seen from the Kita-senjo Enclosure

If you want to go to the center of the ruins, you will pass another Masugata system to the Third Enclosure and an altered gate built with stone walls to the Second Enclosure through the zigzagging path.

The Masugata system in front of the Third Enclosure
Entering the Third Enclosure
The Third Enclosure
Going to the Second Enclosure

You will next walk on a narrow northern ridge through the Third and Second Enclosures, looking at the center of the castle with lots of stone walls and a view of the area around below. The route is guided by the official instructions to walk around safely in the narrow area.

The tourist routes are guided by the official instructions
The Second Enclosure
The lots of stone walls in the center, seen from the Second Enclosure
A view from the Takeda city area below

Main Enclosure with remaining Stone Wall Base for Main Tower

You will eventually reach the center, the Main Enclosure with the stone wall base for the Main Tower. The route goes beside the base on wooden steps and there are other wooden steps to the base. The base was built using natural or roughly processed stones in the Nozura-zumi method, which look really great. Some historians speculate that a three-level Main Tower might have been built on the base, according to the size of the base.

Arriving at the Main Enclosure
The route goes on the wooden steps beside the base
The stone wall base for Main Tower
The top of the base
A view from the base

To be continued in “Takeda Castle Part3”
Back to “Takeda Castle Part1”

56.竹田城 その2

現在の見学ルートは、城にもとからあったバイパスルートをほぼなぞって設定されています。つまり、過去に城の守備兵のために作った通路が、現在のビジターが城跡をスムーズに移動するためにも役立っているのです。

特徴、見どころ

よく整備されている城跡

現在、竹田城跡はよく整備されていて、城跡を維持していたり、多くのビジターにうまく対応しています。もし車で城跡に行きたいのでしたら、「山城の郷」という観光施設に駐車する必要があります。そしてそこからは、タクシーかバスか徒歩で城跡まで行くことになります。タクシーを使った場合でも、降車場所から城跡の入口である券売所までの最後の1キロほどは歩いていく必要があります。入口までの道は舗装されていますが、歩いている途中で見る山の地形は急で険しいのがわかります。このような山の上に、あのような立派な石垣をなぜ、どうやって築いたのだろうと不思議な思いをされるかもしれません。

城周辺の地図

山城の郷
ここからは皆歩きです
道の脇は急坂です
券売所に到着です

この城跡では、見学路は一方通行に設定されていて、ビジターが歩き回れる範囲も杭にロープが張られて規制されています。城の石垣と基礎はとてもよく維持されているように見えます。これは毎年決まった時期に城跡を閉鎖し、その間に修繕を行っているからです。こういった活動により、城跡の状態がよく保たれ、ビジターの安全も確保されているわけです。具体的には、ビジターは最初に北峰の端にある北千畳に入っていきます。それから峰上を歩いていき、本丸にある天守台石垣の脇を通り過ぎ、南峰を進んで最後はその峰の端から外に出ます。このルートは、城にもとからあったバイパスルートをほぼなぞって設定されています。つまり、過去に城の守備兵のために作った通路が、現在のビジターが城跡をスムーズに移動するためにも役立っているのです。

城周辺の地図

石垣の端には立ち入りできません

厳重に守られている城の入口と通路

北峰の端に戻って説明すると、そこは「桝形」と呼ばれる高石垣によって囲まれた四角いスペースによって守られています。かつてはその上に門の建物が乗っかっていました。敵が攻めてきたときには、そこから鉄砲や矢で反撃できるようになっていました。もし敵が門に到達したとしても、桝形の中に閉じ込められる仕組みになっていたのです。

城跡の入口
北峰の端にある桝形(現地では大手門と表記されています)
桝形を内側から見ています

この入口の内側には広大な北千畳曲輪があります。その名前が示す通り、過去には多くの兵員や物資を収容でき、現在では観光客のグループの待機場所になったり、イベントも開催できるような場所になっています。

北千畳
北千畳の周りの風景
北千畳から三の丸を見ています

城跡の中心部分に行くには、もう一つの桝形を通って三の丸に行き、ジグザグの通路を経由して、石垣によって食い違いになっている出入口を通って二の丸に向かいます。

三の丸入口の桝形
三の丸に入っていきます
三の丸
二の丸に向かいます

そして、三の丸と二の丸がある細い北峰上を歩いていくと、多くの石垣がある城の中心部分や、眼下には周辺地域の景色が見えます。見学路の道順は案内板によって示されていて、この狭い場所でもビジターが安全に見て回れるようになっています。

見学順路がきちんと設定されています
二の丸
二の丸から見た城の中心部の石垣
眼下の竹田の街並み

天守台石垣が残る本丸

そうするうちに、天守台石垣が残る城の中心部である本丸に着きます。見学路は木製の階段になり、天守台の脇を通っています。別の階段が天守台の方に向かっています。天守台は、野面済みという自然石あるいは粗く加工された石を使う手法によって積み上げられています。とても壮観です。歴史家は、天守台の大きさから三層の天守がその上に建っていたのではないかと推定しています。

本丸に到着
見学ルートは天守台をバイパスします
天守台石垣
天守台の上
天守台からの景色

「竹田城その3」に続きます。
「竹田城その1」に戻ります。

56.Takeda Castle Part1

Masahiro Saimura, who completed Takeda Castle, only earned 22 thousand koku of rice, which meant he could not afford to build great stone walls at the castle. It is considered that the construction of castle was backed up by Hideyoshi.

Location and History

Famous for Castle in Sky

Takeda Castle was located on Torafusu-yama or the Sitting-Tiger Mountain (at 354m above the sea level) in Tajima Province which is now the northern part of Hyogo Prefecture. The ruins of Takeda Castle recently became very popular among not only history fans but also general tourists as a Castle in the Sky. The ruins don’t have any buildings but their great stone walls remain on the high mountain, which look like they are floating on a sea of clouds when there are certain weather conditions in the morning in autumn to winter. It is also called the Machu Picchu in Japan. The Castle in the Sky is an attraction in the present time and you need to go further away from the castle ruins to see it. However, the nickname also came from the castle’s history and location.

A photo of Takeda Castle in the Sky, from the signboard at the site

Yamana Clan first builds Castle

Tajima Province is not popular among the present generation because the province was small and finally merged to become Hyogo Prefecture. However, it was very important in the past because of its location. In many years of the Middle Ages, the Yamana Clan owned several provinces in the northern part of the Chugoku Region or also called the Sanin Area. Tajima Province was the eastern edge of Yamana’s territory and had borders with Harima and Tanba Provinces. That’s why the Yamana Clan first built Takeda Castle around the 15th Century as a base of offence and defense. At that time, building castles on a high mountain was popular for lords to protect themselves. These castles including Takeda Castle were all made of soil, at that time, they didn’t use stone walls.

The range of Tajima province and the location of the castle

The situation became more complex in the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period when many battles happened. The power of the Yamana Clan decreased while other lords outside Tajima Province wanted to get more territory. For example, in 1571, Suketoyo Yamana, the lord of the clan invaded Tanba Province, however, it was counterattacked and Takeda Castle was temporarily captured by Naomasa Ogino from Kuroi Castle of Tanba in 1575. Suketomo thought he would also ask for help from the strongest warlord, such as Nobunaga Oda and the Mori Clan depending on the situation to maintain his territory. However, when Nobunaga sent troops led by Hidenaga (Toyotomi) Hashiba who was the little brother of Hideyoshi Hashiba, the later ruler of Japan, to Tajima Province in 1577, Nobunaga gained control of Takeda Castle (it is uncertain if it was caused by a battle or a surrender). After Nobunaga died in 1582, when Hideyoshi became the ruler, he ordered Hidenaga to stay and improved Takeda Castle. It could be because Ikuno Silver Mine was there, which made the owner very rich, near the castle. It is thought that building the stone walls on the top started then. The improvement was followed by Masahiro Saimura, another retainer of Hideyoshi, when Hidenaga moved to Wakayama Castle in 1585.

The family crest of the Yamana Clan   (licensed by Houunji 1642 via Wikimedia Commons)
The illustration of Naomasa, from the signboard at the site of Kuroi Castle Ruins
The portrait of Hidenaga Toyotomi, owned by Shungakuin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Masahiro Saimaura completes Castle

Masahiro was originally called Hirohide Akamatsu, a local lord in Tatsuno Castle, Harima Province. He surrendered to Hideyoshi when Hideyoshi invaded Harima Province in 1577, however, Hideyoshi took away his castle so that he had to become Hideyoshi’s retainer. Masahiro worked hard for Hideyoshi to get his original territory back some day. As a result, Hideyoshi gave Masahiro a territory, not in Tatsuno, but with Takeda Castle. Masahiro’s territory only earned 22 thousand koku of rice, which meant he could not afford to build great stone walls at Takeda Castle. It is considered that the construction of castle was backed up by Hideyoshi. Masahiro continued to contribute to Hideyoshi, such as joining the invasion of Korea, ordered by Hideyoshi. It is said that some gate structures of Takeda Castle were reflected by those of Japanese Castles in Korea, built for the invasion.

The family crest of the Akamatsu Clan   (licensed by KfskzsuRPkwt via Wikimedia Commons)
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The great stone walls of Takeda Castle on the mountain

Takeda Castle was built on the mountain with three ridges; long ones in the north and the south, and a short one in the southwest. The Main Enclosure was on the top and had the Main Tower, but its details are unknown. Each ridge had several enclosures including a large one which could accommodate soldiers and supplies. The edge of the ridges was open to the outside, but was also protected strictly by a defensive gate. They were all surrounded by great stone walls, piled using natural or roughly processed stones in a method called Nozura-zumi. A professional stone-piling guild was called in to do this. One of the advanced things of this castle’s layout was that it included bypass routes between the three ridges. The defenders could move from one to another smoothly so that they were able to respond to enemies’ attacks flexibly.

The aerial photo around the castle

The stone wall base for the Main Tower of Takeda Castle

Abrupt ending of Masahiro and Castle

Masahiro usually lived in his Main Hall at the foot while developing the castle town. He was also interested in Chinese studies and communicated with domestic Confucians and a high-class Korean official. It is said that he also built a shrine to Confucianism in the castle on the mountain. However, the lives of he and his castle suddenly ended. In the crucial battle between the East Squad led by Ieyasu Tokugawa and the West Squad led by Mitsunari Ishida which happened in 1600, Masahiro joined the West Squad. When Masahiro heard about Mitsunari being defeated by Ieyasu at Sekigahara field, he switched to support the East Squad. He burned the castle town around Tottori Castle where another lord supporting the West Squad lived, to show his loyalty to Ieyasu. However, Ieyasu’s decision was to force Masahiro to kill himself by performing Harakiri to put the responsibility of the burning on him. This was an incomprehensible conclusion, but some historians speculate that Ieyasu and his Tokugawa Shogunate also wanted to secure Ikuno Silver Mine by removing possible rebels like Masahiro.

The ruins of Tottori Castle
The ruins of Akamatsu Hachiman Shine at Tottori, where Masahiro was worshiped

To be continued in “Takeda Castle Part2”