149.Komakiyama Castle Part2

You can see the legacies of Nobunaga and Ieyasu

Features

Mountain and Castle surrounded by Earthen Walls

Now we can still see Mt. Komakiyama covered with the green of the plants noticeable on the plain area. The building on the top is the Komaki City History Museum which looks like a Main Tower. Komaki City has been developing the whole of the mountain as a historical park. The city opened Komakiyama Castle Historical Site Information Center at the foot in 2019.

A view of Mt. Komakiyama from the city area

The aerial photo around the castle

When you get close to the mountain, you can find earthen walls and dry moats surrounding it. They were made by Ieyasu Tokugawa when the Battle of Komaki and Nagakute happened in 1584. From the Miyukibashi Entrance of the eastern side, you can enter the park across the wooden bridge through the alternate earthen walls. The bridge is not original but was built just for tourists to enter the park easily. Inside the walls, there are plain enclosures which were used for the houses of Nobunaga and his retainers, and also used as military posts of Ieyasu’s troops.

The mountain surrounded by the earthen walls
The Miyukibashi Entrance
The inside of the earthen walls

Main Road similar to Azuchi Castle

From the Main Entrance of the southern side, you can walk up the Main Route, which Nobunaga originally created, to the mountain. The route goes up straight to the mid-slope of the mountain and becomes zigzagged in the upper part. This formation is very similar to that of Azuchi Castle which was Nobunaga’s last home base. This meant he had his own ideas about building castles from an early age.

The Main Route of Komakiyama Castle
The Main Route of Azuchi Castle
The Main Route above the mid slope
The Main Route of Azuchi Castle (above the mid slope)

Remaining Huge Stones and Stone Walls on Mountain

The Komaki City History Museum is on the top of the mountain where the Main Enclosure was. Around the top, you can see several huge stones lying down. In fact, these stones originally were built in the stone walls surrounding the Main Enclosure. Part of the stone walls still remain, and they were thought to be built by Ieyasu, not Nobunaga. However, the recent excavation found out that Nobunaga built these stone walls using huge stones. They were made into three tiers to demonstrate his authority. They are now recognized as a very early example of stone walls for a castle built in Nobunaga’s unique way.

The Komaki City History Museum (licensed by Bariston via Wikimedia Commons)
Around the top
One of the lying down huge stones
The remaining stone walls

To be continued in “Komakiyama Castle Part3”
Back to “Komakiyama Castle Part1”

149.Komakiyama Castle Part1

The castle had a very short life but rich history.

Location and History

Nobunaga’s Foothold

Komakiyama Castle was located on an 86m high mountain called Komakiyama, on Nobi Plain in Owari Province, what is now the western part of Aichi Prefecture. The mountain had no castle until Nobunaga Oda built a castle on it in 1563. The reason for it was that he wanted to move his home base from Kiyosu Castle in now Nagoya City to this castle. He aimed to capture Inabayama Castle, what is now Gifu City, which the Saito Clan owned at that time. Komakiyama was much closer to Inabayama than Kiyosu. However, it was very rare for warlords and their retainers to move their home to another. They always continued to live in places where their ancestors had been.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Three Distinct Features

Komakiyama Castle by Nobunaga had three distinct features. First, the Main Enclosure or Honmaru on the top was surrounded by stone walls made using huge stones. Some of the stones were carried from another mountain. At that time, building stone walls for castles was rare, and there was likely no other case like Komakiyama. It was one of the earliest examples of using stone walls as a show of authority.

The remaining stone walls on the mountain

Secondly, the castle had two residences for the lord, one was on the mountain, the other was at the foot. Other warlords who had a mountain castle also often had two residences. They usually lived in the one on the foot and used the one on the mountain when a battle happened. However, in the case of Nobunaga, he seemed to live in his residence on the mountain. He might have considered the mountain as a special place. Another similar example can be seen in Gifu Castle, his next home base.

The excavation site on the mountain

Lastly, the Main Route went straight from the foot to the mid-slope of the mountain like Azuchi Castle, his last home base. It was abnormal for other warlords to have such a route on the mountain, because it was not defensive. The reason is still unsure, but it must have depended on Nobunaga’s idea. In addition, its castle town was built in an advanced way in an area where nothing existed prior. The town was divided orderly to accommodate warriors, merchants, and craftsmen separately. Such a way to develop castle town is commonly seen in those in the next century.

The straight Main Route from the foot
The miniature model of the castle town distribution at the site

Ieyasu’s Stronghold

The life of the castle by Nobunaga was just four years, as he was successful in capturing Inabayama Castle in 1567. He moved his home base again to Inabayama castle and renamed it Gifu Castle. Komakiyama Castle was abandoned right away. In 1584, the castle was reused by Ieyasu Tokugawa when he fought with the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi in the Battle of Komaki and Nagakute. Ieyasu reinforced earthen walls and dry moats surrounding the castle to establish a stronghold there against Hideyoshi at Inuyama Castle. This battle resulted in a dead heat and Ieyasu showed his great presence towards the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate later.

The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The earthen walls built by Ieyasu

To be continued in “Komakiyama Castle Part2”

39.Gifu Castle Part3

A popular spot for tourism and history

Later History

After the battle in 1600, Gifu Castle was abandoned, instead, Tokugawa Shogunate built Kano Castle in a nearby plain area. In 1910, the first imitation Main Tower was built by the local people. The present Main Tower is the second generation which was built in 1956. Both of them are seen as important symbols of city and have been contributing to the increase in tourism. As the excavations and studies improve in recent years, the area around Mt. Kinkazan is focused on as a historic spot. As a result, it has been a National Historic Site as the ruins of Gifu Castle since 2011.

The present imitation Main Tower
A view from the top of the mountain

My Impression

I actually thought that the Gifu Castle was just on the top of mountain, until recently. After I visited and learned more about the castle, I found that it offered many perspectives. Especially, Nobunaga Oda received and improved it on his own way. He used the potential abilities of the castle to increase his authority. I think that something new about the castle will be discovered again soon to surprise us.

The replica of the wooden statue of Nobunaga Oda (Gifu Castle Museum)
The ruins of Nobunaga’s residence on the foot of the mountain

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car:
It is about 6 km away from Kagamigahara IC on Tokai-Hokuriku Expressway.
The Gifu Park offers a parking lot.
By public transportation, take the Gifu Bus from the No.12 or 13 bus stops at JR Gifu Station, and get off at the Gifu-Koen-Rekishi-Hakubutsukan-Mae bus stop.
To get JR Gifu Station from Tokyo: Get the Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express, and transfer to Tokaido Local Line at Nagoya Station.

Links and References

Gifu Castle castle tower, Gifu city official web site

That’s all.
Back to “Gifu Castle Part1”
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