139.Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle Part1

An impregnable castle on the border of Wakasa Province

Location and History

Katsuhisa Awaya reclaims Castle

What is now Fukui Prefecture was divided into Echizen Province in the Northeast and Wakasa Province in the Southwest. In the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period, the Asakura Clan governed Echizen while the Takeda Clan owned Wakasa. Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle was in Wakasa Province near the border between both provinces. Sagaki comes from the name of the area around the castle and Kuniyoshi originates from the name of the person who first built the castle sometime before the Sengoku Period. People at that time usually called it “Sagaki Castle” and the other name “Kuniyoshi Castle” became popular later. As a result, historians and history buffs often call it Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle, using both names.

The location of the castle

Comparing the Asakura and Takeda Clans, Asakura were much stronger than Takeda. Asakura tried to extend their power to Wakasa Province, in response, Takeda wanted to rely on Asakura. However, Takeda’s retainers, such as one of the senior vassals, Katsuhisa Awaya, rebelled against them. Katsuhisa reclaimed an abandoned castle to prevent the Asakura Clan from invading Wakasa Province, called Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle. The castle was built on a steep mountain with a height at 197m near the border of Echizen Provence. People who went in or out of Wakasa Province had to pass a ridge beside the mountain, so the castle was the pivot of defense for the province. The lord of the castle usually lived in the Main Hall on the valley below the mountain, but used the mountain part when a battle broke out.

Asakura Clan′s troops are repelled 5 times

The relief map around the castle

The Asakura Clan attacked Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle 5 times between 1563 and 1567 to crush the rebellion. However, all the attacks failed because the rebel army and the castle were so strong. The battles between them occurred as follows. The warriors, their families, and other people around the castle gathered on the mountain carrying ammunition, stones, and wood. Meanwhile, some defenders hid in ambush beside the route to the castle. When the attackers got close to the castle on the route, the defenders made a surprise attack on them. After that, when the attackers climbed up to the mid slope on the mountain, the defenders shot guns and arrows, and threw the stones and wood all together. Many of the attackers were hit and fell into the valley, forcing the rest to withdraw. In addition, when the attackers looted property and crops away from the town and fields near the castle, the defenders made a night attack on Asakura’s positions. As a result, the castle was considered to be impregnable.

The imaginary drawing of Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle, exhibited by the Wakasa Kuniyoshi Castle Historical Museum

Castle is involved with Battle over Country

A fortunate opportunity for Katsuhisa came in 1570 when the great warlord, Nobunaga Oda attacked the Asakura Clan. Nobunaga visited Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle during his invasion of Echizen and praised Katsuhisa’s military achievement. The battle between Oda and the Asakura lasted until 1573 when the Asakura Clan was defeated. Nobunaga gave Wakasa Province to one of his senior vassals, Nagahide Niwa whom Katsuhisa served. Times rapidly changed after Nobunaga was killed in the Honnoji Incident in 1582. Nobunaga’s former retainers, Hideyoshi Hashiba and Katsuie Shibata were against each other for the initiative. Katsuie was in Echizen Province while Nagahide supported Hideyoshi. That meant Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle became a castle at the tense border between two provinces again.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Nagahide Niwa, owned by Historiographical Institute the University of Tokyo (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Katsuhisa’s boss, Nagahide was responsible for constructing Azuchi Castle, famously built by Nobunaga Oda. That meant Nagahide had advanced techniques for improving castles. Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle had basically been made of soil, but was fortified using stone walls. In the end, the battle between Hideyoshi and Katsuie happened in another place before Hideyoshi won. During the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi followed by the Tokugawa Shogunate, the castle changed hands several times. The castle still continued to be improved using stone walls, but the mountain part was eventually abandoned. Instead, only the Main Hall part in the valley was used because it was convenient for the government. In 1634 when the Sakai Clan, the lords of the Obama Domain including Wakasa Province, built the Sagaki magistrate’s office, the castle was entirely abandoned.

The imaginary drawing of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Gifu Castle Museum
The ruins of the Sagaki magistrate’s office

To be continued in “Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle Part2”

156.Kamaha Castle Part3

Make sure you prepare a lot of time to visit.

Features

Main Enclosure, Center of Castle

To arrive at the Main Enclosure, you will have to pass three other enclosures on the ridge. The enclosure has its entrance ruins with stone steps and stone walls, and some stone walls surround it. Many other stone walls were found by the excavation but buried again in order to preserve it. It is still uncertain who and when these structures were built. Some historians point out they are similar to those of Odani Castle that the Azai Clan built.

The map around the castle

Going to the Main Enclosure
The entrance ruins of the Main Enclosure (licensed by HikaruKinkakuji via Wikimedia Commons)
The Kurogane-mon Gate Ruins of Odani Castle

Later History

After its abandonment, Kamaha Castle had been buried for over 400 years. Maibara Town (now is Maibara City), which manages the ruins of the castle, did the research and excavation between 1996 and 2000. It found that the castle had surprisingly advanced systems for mountain castles at that time. As a result, the ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 2005.

The stone walls of Kamaha Castle Ruins
The observation platform at the Large Turret Ruins

My Impression

I can honestly say that I regret not having enough time and preparation to visit the castle ruins. I didn’t think visiting them needed real climbing. As a result, I didn’t see all of them. I recommend you visit with a group, if possible, because it is quite risky.
In addition, there are other routes for visiting the ruins by using car on a forest road near the ruins. Someday I would like to study it and try visiting all of them.

The trail from the underpasses of Hikone43 of the Meshin Expressway
Watch out for wild animals

How to get There

I recommend using a car when you visit the castle ruins.
It is about a 5-minute drive away from Maibara IC on the Meishin Expressway. There is a parking lot in the old Banba Station near the underpass of Hikone44 of the expressway.
If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Kohoku Bus bound for Toray Carbon Magic from JR Maibara Station and get off at the Banba bus stop.
To get to Maibara Station from Tokyo: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express.

The parking lot for visitors at the old Banba Station
The path from the parking lot to the underpasses of Hikone44

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Kamaha Castle Part1”
Back to “Kamaha Castle Part2”

156.Kamaha Castle Part2

Ruins in the animal kingdom now

Features

Several Routes to Castle Ruins

Today, visiting the ruins of Kamaha Castle needs climbing up the mountain. There are several routes for visiting them. Probably the popular ones are from the old Banba Station on the old Nakasendo Road, because they reach the front side of the castle. You have to walk on the routes for about 1 hour, but many signs will lead you along the way. From the station, you will first go through the underpasses of Hikone44 or 43 of the Meshin Expressway. You have to open and close the front wire netting gate in order to shut animals outside it when you pass. The inside of the gate is basically the animal kingdom now. the route from Hikone44 is relatively smooth but longer, and the one from Hikone43 is shorter but comparatively steeper. The route from Hikone43 seemed to be the original Main Route.

The map around the castle

The old Banba Station on the old Nakasendo Road
A distant view of the mountain where the castle was built
The underpass of Hikone44 of the Meshin Expressway
The underpass of Hikone43 of the Meshin Expressway

If you choose the route from Hikone44, the first part of your visit is completely a trek. You will go on the trail along natural valleys and ridges for over 30 minutes. The signs will show you when you are close to the castle ruins. You will also find a bear-avoiding bell that you can ring. You may not visualize there was an advanced castle where many people usually used it over such a place.

Going on the trail from the underpass of Hikone44
A bear-avoiding bell
Going on a ridge
Closing to the castle ruins

Large Ditch and Stone Walls

You will first reach the Large Ditch in the northern edge of the castle. It may look like a natural valley, but, in fact, it is artificial. The enclosure behind the ditch is called the North VI.

The map around the castle

The Large Ditch
Looking up the North VI Enclosure from the Large Ditch

You can see the Large Stone Walls in the western side of the enclosure. These stone walls were made in a unique method which uses clay to fill in the gaps.

The Large Stone Walls
The cray between the stones can’t be seen just looking at them

Ruins of Large Turret and Entrance

Large scale earthen walls also remain on the enclosure, which supported the Large Turret in the past. A simple wooden observation platform stands there now.

The North VI Enclosure
The remaining earthen walls of the enclosure
Looking down the Large Ditch from the observation platform
A view from the observation platform

The next part is the North V Enclosure which has the other entrance ruins with stone steps and stone mound than those in the Main Enclosure.

The entrance ruins of the North V Enclosure
Water is supplied in the enclosure from its source somewhere

After that is the North IV Enclosure has another wooden observation platform for visitors probably because it is a good viewing spot. You can enjoy a good view of the Omi Plain beside Biwa Lake.

The North IV Enclosure
The observation platform in the North IV Enclosure
A view from the observation platform

To be continued in “Kamaha Castle Part3”
Back to “Kamaha Castle Part1”