191.Nakatsu Castle Part2

Basically, newer stone walls use more processed stones. However, in the case of those in Nakatsu Castle, it looks like it is the other way around.

Features

Private Company runs Imitation Main Tower

Today, the ruins of Nakatsu Castle have been developed as a tourist attraction called “Nakatsu Castle Park”. This is because the ruins have an outstanding five-level Main Tower on a corner of the stone walls in the Main Enclosure. However, the tower is an imitation, which was built at the place where another original turret had been built. A company, which the former lord of the castle, the Okudaira Clan ran, built it to boost tourism. Because of its origin, it mainly exhibits the history of the Nakatsu Domain under the clan’s rule as the Okudaira Clan Historical Museum. However, when the museum lost money, the clan sold it to another private company. This current castle is considered the only one which a private company runs, so they may approach you. If you want to know much about Yoshitaka Kuroda who was the founder of the castle, you can visit the Kuroda Kanbe Museum which Nakatsu City owns, in front of the tower.

The Imitation Main Tower of Nakatsu Castle
The entrance side of the tower
The interior of the tower
A view of Nakatsu River from the top of the tower
An exhibition of the Kuroda Kanbe Museum

Several kinds of Stone Walls from Kuroda and Hosokawa Periods

The historical items of the castle mainly remain in the Main Enclosure, such as the stone walls and water moats. If you look at the northern side of the stone walls, they are divided into the older part on the right and the newer one on the left. You can clearly see the joint which was the corner of the older part. Basically, newer stone walls use more processed stones. However, in the case of those in Nakatsu Castle, it looks like it is the other way around. The stones in the new left stone walls are natural while those in the older ones are more processed. The reason for it was that the founder, Yoshitaka Kuroda brought the stones from an ancient mountain castle, Tobarusan-jo nearby to build the new castle rapidly.

The aerial photo around the castle

The newer stone walls from the Hosokawa Period on the left and the older stone walls from the Kuroda Period on the right
Did the stone walls base for the tower come from the Kuroda Period?

The Main Enclosure is still beside the Nakatsu River but the concrete bulkhead with a promenade is between them now. It may be a good idea to walk on the promenade to see the river and the castle. The stone walls, which use the ancient mountain castle’s stones, lie along the riverside. They were probably built there with castle buildings on them to consider the scenery of the castle from the river. However, you can see modern residence or shrine buildings on them now, which are an interesting contrast. There are the stone walls of the Water Gate at the edge of the enclosure, which makes us understand the castle was directly connected to the river in the past.

Going to the promenade
Other stone walls from the Kuroda Period lie along the riverside
There might have been a large turret like a Main Tower on this stone wall base
Some modern residences are on the stone walls
The ruins of the Water Gate  (licensed by Mukai via Wikimedia Commons)

There are another type of stone walls which Yoshitaka originally built opposite the riverside. They are long but not so high, built using smaller natural stones than the Hosokawa Clan’s period. They were recently repaired with the water moat in front of them, where you can walk along.

The stone walls and the water moat opposite the riverside
The Nakatsu City Historical Museum and the promenade are over there

New and Old Entrances of Main Enclosure

In addition, you can see the cut sections of the stone walls at the main entrance of the Main Enclosure with the shrine gate. This is because the entrance was built by breaking part of the stone walls in the Meiji Era and the gate was built in the Showa Era.

The front entrance of the Main Enclosure
The cut section of the stone walls, the lower part was first built by the Kuroda Clan and the upper part was added by the Hosokawa Clan
The stone walls on the other side of the entrance had once been destroyed but was restored

There are the ruins of Shiiki-mon Gate, the original main entrance, near the current one, which are still surrounded by stone walls. The gate also had a fan-shaped space for defense, surrounded by other stone walls in the back. However, the stone walls were partially removed.

The ruins of Shiiki-mon Gate
The remaining part of the fan-shaped space inside the gate
The inside of the gate was like this illustration, the remaining part is marked red, from the signboard at the site
The inside of the gate is open now

To be continued in “Nakatsu Castle Part3”
Back to “Nakatsu Castle Part1”

191.中津城 その2

一般的には新しい石垣はより加工された石を使います。ところが、中津城の石垣の場合は真逆のように見えるのです。

特徴、見どころ

民営となっている模擬天守

現在、中津城跡は「中津城公園」という観光地として整備されています。そのように言う理由は、城跡の本丸石垣の角に、大変よく目立つ五層の天守があるからです。しかし、これは模擬天守であり、元はオリジナルの他の櫓があった場所に建てられたものです。以前城主であった奥平家が経営していた会社が、観光振興のために建設したのです。その経緯によりこの天守では、奥平家歴史資料館として奥平氏が支配した中津藩の歴史を主に展示しています。しかし赤字運営のために、奥平家は天守を他の民間会社に売却しました。現在の中津城は、唯一の民間経営の城とされていて、現地では民間企業らしくお客を呼び込む従業員の姿が見られるかもしれません。もし、城の創立者である黒田孝高のことをより知りたければ、天守の手前にあって、中津市が運営している黒田官兵衛資料館に行ってみてはいかがでしょう。

中津城の模擬天守
模擬天守の入口側
天守(奥平家歴史資料館)の中の様子
展望台から見える中津川の眺め
黒田官兵衛資料館の展示の一部

黒田時代と細川時代の石垣が共存

城に関する歴史的遺物は、石垣や水堀など、主に本丸にあります。本丸北側の石垣を見てみると、石垣は右側の古い部分と左側の新しい部分に分かれています。古い部分のかつては角であった継ぎ目がはっきりと見て取れます。一般的には新しい石垣はより加工された石を使います。ところが、中津城の石垣の場合は真逆のように見えるのです。左側の新しい石垣の石は自然石で、右側の古い石垣の石は前者よりずっと加工されているのです。その理由は、創始者の黒田孝高が新しい城の建設を急ぐために、近くにある古代山城の唐原山城(とばるさんじょう)の石を運んできて使ったからだそうです。

城周辺の航空写真

左側が細川時代の新しい石垣、右側が黒田時代の古い石垣
天守の石垣は細川時代のものか?

本丸は今でも中津川沿いに位置していますが、その間は遊歩道があるコンクリートの護岸壁となっています。川と城を一緒に眺めながら遊歩道を歩いてみるのもよいでしょう。古代山城にあった石を使って築かれた石垣が、川沿いに並んでいます。この石垣の上に建物を築くことで、川の方から見た城の見栄えが良くなるようにしていたと思われます。しかし今ではその石垣の上に現代の住居や神社の建物があって、面白いコントラストとなっています。本丸の端には水門の石垣があって、過去には城と川が直接つながっていたことがわかります。

川沿いの遊歩道へ
川沿いに残る黒田時代の石垣
この石垣台の上に天守のような大櫓があったかもしれないようです
石垣の一部には現代住宅が乗っかっています
水門跡の石垣 (licensed by Mukai via Wikimedia Commons)

川の反対側には、孝高が最初に築いた別のタイプの石垣があります。この石垣は長く伸びていますが、そんなに高くはありませんし、細川氏の時代に使われていたものより小さな自然石を使って築かれています。最近になって手前にある水堀と一緒に修繕されて、その周りを歩いてみることができます。

川と反対側にある石垣と堀
向かい側には遊歩道と中津市歴史博物館があります

本丸の新旧正門

更には、神社の鳥居がある本丸の正面入口では、その石垣の断面を見ることができます。それは、この入口が明治時代にこの石垣を壊した場所に作られたからで、鳥居は昭和になってから建てられました。

本丸の正面入口
石垣の断面(内部に見える石垣が黒田時代のもので、細川時代に積み増しているようです)
入口のもう片側の石垣は上半分が撤去されていましたが復元されています

この現在の正面入口の近くには、オリジナルの本丸正門である椎木門(しいきもん)跡があります。この場所は今も石垣に囲まれています。この門の背後には防衛のために別の石垣で囲まれた扇形のスペースがあったのですが、今では一部しか残っていません。

椎木門跡
扇形の石垣のうち残存部分
かつてはこのようになっていました、現地説明版より(赤枠内が残存部分)
今は門の内側は開けています

「中津城その3」に続きます。
「中津城その1」に戻ります。

191.Nakatsu Castle Part1

Yoshitaka Kuroda, who built Nakatsu Castle, is known to many Japanese people as the military strategist of Hideyoshi Toyotomi. However, he was actually a working general and a secretary under Hideyoshi.

Location and History

Yoshitaka works hard for Unification of Japan with Hideyoshi Toyotomi

Nakatsu Castle was located in Buzen Province which is equivalent to the eastern part of Fukuoka Prefecture and the northwestern part of Oita Prefecture. The province was also the northernmost part of Kyushu Island which was connected with the Main Island of Japan through Kanmon Straits. The castle was built on a delta in the estuary of Nakatsu River flowing into Buzen Sea, in the central part of the province, by Yoshitaka Kuroda (he is more often known as Kanbe Kuroda or Josui Kuroda after he retired). He is known to many Japanese people as Gunshi or the military strategist of Hideyoshi Toyotomi who was the ruler of Japan in the end of the 16th Century. However, the degree was given by later people like historians, critics, and novelists, he was actually a working general and a secretary under Hideyoshi.

The range of Buzen Province and the location of the castle

The portrait of Yoshitaka Kuroda, owned by Sofukuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Yoshitaka was originally a senior vassal of a local lord, the Kodera Clan in Harima Province (now the southern part of Hyogo Province). When Hideyoshi invaded the Chugoku Region, which included the province, as a general under Nobunaga Oda, Yoshitaka supported Hideyoshi by providing his own Himeji Castle to Hideyoshi. After that, he did his best to help complete the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi. A famous story about him in the early stage is that he was confined for about one and a half years in Arioka Castle when he visited to persuade Murashige Araki who had decided to be against Nobunaga. While Hideyoshi had become the ruler after Nobunaga was killed by Mitsuhide Akechi, Yoshitaka worked at Hideyoshi’s beck and call. For example, he negotiated with the Mori Clan in the Chugoku Region to divide territories into each other without battles. When the invasion of Kyushu happened in 1587, Yoshitaka set the stage for Hideyoshi’s arrival by fighting against local lords or making them surrender.

The remaining stone walls of Himeji Castle Yoshitaka built
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Yoshitaka builds Castle in his territory in Bungo Province

After the invasion, Yoshitaka was given part of Buzen Province by Hideyoshi. His territory was small for his contribution so far, because, it has been said it was because Hideyoshi feared Yoshitaka’s potential power. However, some suggest that it could have been because Yoshitaka was a Christian which Hideyoshi had banned from spreading just after the invasion. Yoshitaka at first lived in Umagadake Castle, one of mountain castles which were common then, but launched the construction of Nakatsu Castle in 1588, which would be considered one of the Three Great Sea Castles in Japan, together with Imabari and Takamatsu Castles. Its location was decided by Yoshitaka for the convenience of the government and transportation, but probably also instructed by Hideyoshi. Hideyoshi’s other retainers also built sea castles in their new territories in the Kyushu Region during the same period, such as Kokura, Oita-Funai, and Yatsushiro Castles, which were used for the preparation for the invasion of Korea planned by Hideyoshi as well.

The remaining stone walls of Nakatsu Castle the Kuroda Clan built
Imabari Castle
Takamatsu Castle
The ruins of Yatsushiro Castle

Nakatsu Castle was also one of the earliest modernized castles with turrets and stone walls in the region. The Main Enclosure was in the center but along the estuary and had a gate directly to it, which is a rare case in Japanese castles. The Second Enclosure was in the front of the sea and the Third Enclosure was in the back. All of them were on the delta which looked like a folding fan. The number of the turrets was 22 at its peak, but the Main Tower was not built for some reason.

The old map of Nakatsu Castle, from the signboard at the site, there are the Second, Main, and Third Enclosures from above to the bottom

Did Yoshitaka want to be Ruler?

The highlight of Yoshitaka’s life came when the decisive battle happened in 1600 between the East Quad led by Ieyasu Tokugawa and the West Quad by Mitsunari Ishida after Hideyoshi died. Yoshitaka joined the East Squad with his son Nagamasa, who fought with Ieyasu against Mitsunari in the Battle of Sekigawara in central Japan. Yoshitaka himself stayed at Nakatsu Castle, and after he left, he captured castles in Kyushu, which other lords in the West Squad owned, one by one. The Battle of Sekigahara, where Ieyasu defeated Mitsunari, ended in only one day on the 15th of September. However, Yoshitaka continued to invade the region for about two more months until Ieyasu stopped him. Yoshitaka had already captured all the Kyushu Region with his allies except for the territory of the Shimazu Clan in southern Kyushu. This made people later speculate that Yoshitaka would have liked to be the ruler, but only he knew the answer. The Kuroda Clan was promoted to be the lord of much larger territory of Fukuoka Domain including Fukuoka Castle before Yoshitaka died in 1604.

The statues of Yoshitaka and his wife at the current Nakatsu Castle
The Portrait of Nagamasa Kuroda, the first lord of Fukuoka Domain, owned by Fukuoka City Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Fukuoka Castle

Castle is followed by Nakatsu Domain which promotes learning Western sciences

Nakatsu Castle was followed by the Hosokawa Clan as their branch castle. The castle survived even after the Law of One Castle per Province, issued by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1615. It is said this was because Sansai Hosokawa, the father of the lord used it as his retreat. The castle was finally governed by the Okudaira Clan as the Nakatsu Domain until the end of the Edo Period. A remarkable event during the period was that the lords promoted learning about the Western sciences through Dutch language, called Rangaku. Japanese people were usually not allowed to learn them because trading the Western items and communicating with the Western people were strictly limited. Only the trading with Dutch at the Dejima trading house in Nagasaki and visiting Edo by the head of the house every four year were allowed. However, the third lord, Masashika Okudaira started to promote it after seeing his mother’s broken bones were mended by Western medicine. Ryotaku Maeno, who first translated a book of Western medicine with his colleagues such as Genpaku Sugita, was the domain’s doctor. Yukichi Fukuzawa, who was a great philosopher and educator in the Meiji Era, came from lower class samurais of the domain but started in life by learning Rangaku.

The portrait of Sansai Hosokawa, owned by Eisei Bunko Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Masashika Okudaira, owned by Jishoji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Ryotaku Maeno, from the book “Ika-Sentetsu Partraits” in 1936 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Yukichi Fukuzawa, around 1891 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Nakatsu Castle Part2”