196.Sadowara Castle Part3

Please check the availability ahead of time before your visit.

Features

Main Route is partially available

The Main Route to the top is still closed at the middle of the route where it is being repaired as of May 2023. Therefore, you can not go straight through the route, however you can see what it is by walking up the route from the foot to the repaired point and walking down from the top to the point. The route basically goes along another ridge of the mountain and its entrance is on the bottom of a large deep ditch which was surrounded by high vertically cut cliffs on both sides. Today’s visitors can enjoy a great view of the work by the builders, but past enemies must have felt a threat from the defenders. The narrow route continues to go along the ridge on the right, which the defenders would have attacked from in the past and landslides would easily destroy the route from today.

The map around the castle

The guide plate of the Main Route
The entrance of the Main Route
The route goes along the ridge on the right
The route is not availabe from here

Above the repairing point, the route turns right and takes over another ridge to reach the Main Enclosure. The point taking over it is another artificially-made narrow ditch, which was another defensive point.

The Main route reaches the Main Enclosure over this ditch
The other warning display of the repairing point

Later History

During the Meiji Restoration, the Satsuma Domain, a relative of the Sadowara Domain, got the power in the domestic politics. The Sadowara Domain joined the activities because the lords of both domains came from the same Shimazu Clan. The last lord of the domain, Tadahiro Shimazu was planning to move his home base to a more convenient land, Hirose. He started to build a new castle there and abolished Sadowara Castle where its buildings were all demolished in 1869. However, the launch of the castle was stopped before the abolition of the feudal domain system by the central government in 1871.

The photo of Tadahiro Shimazu, from the Miyazaki Prefecture History (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The ruins of Sadowara Castle had been used as fields (probably only in the plain area) for a long time. The excavation of the plain Second Enclosure was done in 1989 and the Main Hall on it was restored in 1993. The excavation of the Main Enclosure on the mountain was also done in 1996. It found that the foundations of the Main Tower Base and some roof tiles with golden leaf which was often used for Main Towers. That resulted in Sadowara Caste being the southernmost castle which had the Main Tower in Japan so far. As a result, the castle ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 2004.

The Main Enclosure on the mountain

My Impression

I visited the ruins of Sadowara Castle three times in total. My first visit was several years ago, which I don’t remember very well. The second one was in 2022 just after the closing of both routes to the mountain part due to the natural disaster, which disappointed me. I didn’t know about the news and the vulnerable nature of the mountain on the Shirasu Plateau. I finally reached the top again after hearing the good news of its re-opening. When I was wandering the top around, I found some other parts were still closed and some trees fell beside the road. I realized the difficulty of maintaining the ruins and thought that nature might have even helped the castle prevent enemies from attacking it. Please check if these routes are open if you want to visit the ruins.

Another major enclosure called the South Castle was still closed
Some bamboo trees lay down

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about a 10 minute drive away from Saito IC on the Higashi-Kyushu Expreesway. There is a parking lot in front of the castle ruins.
If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Miyazaki Kotsu Bus bound for Saito Bus Center at Miyazaki Station and get off at the Koryu-Center-mae bus stop.
From Tokyo or Osaka to Miyazaki Station: Take the Miyazaki-kuko Line from Miyazaki Airport after using a plane.

The parking lot in front of the restored Main Hall

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Sadowara Castle Part1”
Back to “Sadowara Castle Part2”

196.佐土原城 その3

この城跡に出かける前にはどこまで行けるのか確認しておきましょう。

特徴、見どころ

一部通行可能な大手道

山上へ向かう大手道は、2023年5月の時点では修復中のため途中から通行止めになっています。そのため、このルートの全部を通ってみることはまだできません。しかし、山麓から修復地点の手前まで登って行くか、頂上の方から下ってみることはできます。このルートは基本的に山の別の峰に沿って進んでいて、その入口部分は両側を垂直に削られた崖に囲まれた、大きく且つ深い谷の底を通っています。現代のビジターは築城者の見事な仕事による素晴らしい景色を楽しむことができますが、過去にこの城を攻撃しようとする敵にとっては、守備側からどのような反撃を受けるのか脅威に感じたでしょう。入口からは狭い道が、峰を右側に見ながら続いていて、過去には守備兵がその峰から攻撃してきたでしょうし、現代では土砂崩れが発生して道を簡単に壊してしまいそうです。

城周辺の地図

大手道への案内板
大手道入口
右側の峰に沿って進んでいきます
ここから通行止めです

修復地点から上の方は、大手道は右に曲がってもう一つの峰を越えて本丸に至ります。その峰を越える部分には、人工の堀切が掘られていて、その地点も防衛拠点となっていました。

大手道は堀切を越えて本丸に至ります
堀切から下の通行止め地点

その後

明治維新により、佐土原藩の親戚筋である薩摩藩が、日本の政治の実権を握りました。両藩の藩主はもともと同じ島津氏であったことで、佐土原藩も維新の事業に加わりました。佐土原藩の最後の藩主となった島津忠寛(ただひろ)は、本拠地をより便利な地である広瀬に移そうとしました。彼は1869年に、そこに新しい城の建設を始め、佐土原城を廃して建物は全て撤去されました。ところが1871年に中央政府が廃藩置県を行うことになり、工事は中止となってしまいました。

島津忠寛写真、「宮崎県史 別編 維新期の日向諸藩」より  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

佐土原城跡は長い間、恐らく山麓の平地だけでしょうが、畑地となっていました。その平地にあった二の丸の発掘が1989年に行われ、1993年にはそこにあった御殿が復元されました。本丸の発掘も1996年に行われ、天守台の基礎部分が発見され、それとともに天守でよく使われた金箔瓦も見つかっています。それをもって、今のところ佐土原城には日本で一番南に位置する天守があったのではないかとされています。それらの成果をもとに、2004年に城跡は国の史跡に指定されました。

山上の本丸

私の感想

私は、佐土原城跡に都合3回行っています。最初は何年も前であまりよく覚えていません。2回目の訪問は2022年で、自然災害により山上への2つのルートが全て通行止めになった直後でした。とてもがっかりしました。そのニュースも、シラス台地の崩れやすい性質のことも全然知らなかったのです。1つのルートが再開したというよい知らせを聞いてから、やっと山上を再び訪れることができました。そのとき山頂周辺を歩き回ったのですが、まだ通行止めになっている箇所があり、通路の脇には倒木がありました。そのことで、この城跡を維持する難しさと、それが敵が攻めてくるのを防ぐことにもなっていたのだと実感しました。もし、この城跡に行かれるのでしたら、道が開いているかどうかチェックしてから出発してください。

もう一つの主要曲輪、南の城は立ち入り禁止でした
竹ではありますが、風雨でたくさん倒れていました

ここに行くには

車で行く場合:東九州自動車道の西都ICから約10分のところです。城跡の前に駐車場があります。
公共交通機関を使う場合は、宮崎駅から西都バスセンター行きの宮崎交通バスに乗って、交流センター前バス停で降りてください。
東京または大阪から宮崎駅まで:飛行機で宮崎空港に行ってから、宮崎空港線に乗ってください。

復元御殿前の駐車場

リンク、参考情報

宮崎市佐土原歴史資料館
・「よみがえる日本の城18」学研
・「日本の城改訂版第89号」デアゴスティーニジャパン
・「三位入道(短編集「奥羽の二人」より)/松本清張著」講談社

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「佐土原城その1」に戻ります。
「佐土原城その2」に戻ります。

196.Sadowara Castle Part2

Visiting the castle ruins might be lucky to you.

Features

Limited Opening Days and Routes to Top

Today, the ruins of Sadowara Castle consist of two parts, the restored Main Hall in the Second Enclosure at the foot and the remaining foundations on the mountain including the Main Enclosure. The Main Hall is used as a museum called Kakushokan or the Crane and Pine Hall, where you can learn about the history of the castle and see restored or excavated items. However, as of May 2023, please make sure it is basically open only on weekends and public holidays probably for its operational purposes.

Kakushokan, the restored Main Hall at the foot
The interior of the hall

In addition, the routes to the mountain part is not always open as well because of occasional damages caused by natural disasters. For example, there are two routes to the top, however, only one route is available as of May 2023. This is because the harsh weather from Typhoon No.14 in 2022 caused landslides to the mountain that made all the routes impossible to be used. Officials have been restoring the routes and just opened one of them back in January 2023. Such a situation has often been happening to the mountain, so the officials even now struggle to maintain the mountain part. That may also have been the reason why the Sadowara Domain closed the part when they built the Main Hall at the foot.

The relief map around the castle

Going on Middle Route to Top

The only open route to the top is called Nakanomichi or the Middle Route, which was considered the back route. The top is only 40m above from the foot, not far from it, however, it is not easy to access, which meant it had a very defensive design in the past. The Middle Route goes on a valley between ridges of the mountain. It is very steep and is unstable on the feet, so if it rains a lot, it could be dangerous. The ridges have enclosures and their sides are cut vertically by processing the soil of the Shirasu plateau. If you were an enemy, you would have been attacked from above of both sides.

The map around the castle

The entrance of the Middle Route
Climbing the steep route on the valley
The route is sandwiched by enclosures on both sides
The sides of the enclosures are cut vertically

Slightly remaining Main Tower Base in Main Enclosure

You will eventually reach a fork in the route at he top area, which surrounds the Main Enclosure. The enclosure also has steep cliffs on its side, which was probably cut vertically by the builders. If you take the route on the right, you will arrive at the back entrance of the enclosure.

The fork on the mountain
Looking up at the Main Enclosure
The route around the Main Enclosure
The back entrance of the enclosure

While if you take the left one, you will enter the main entrance of it.

The route on the left from the fork
A small enclosure in front of the main entrance of the Main Enclosure
The main entrance

The Main Enclosure now looks like two connected squares and the ruins of the Main Tower base is in the back one. The base ruins have only the foundational stones lining up on the ground. Their upper part was probably destroyed intentionally by the lord of the castle when they closed the mountain part. That makes it difficult to find out who and when the base was first built.

The Main Enclosure (the front square)
The ruins of the Main Tower base (in the back square)
The foundational stones of the base

To be continued in “Sadowara Castle Part3”
Back to “Sadowara Castle Part1”