205.Matsuoyama Castle Part2

This article will describe how we visit the ruins of the encampments for the battle of Sekigahara (mainly of the Western Allies). We will finally go to the ruins of Matsuoyama Castle where Hideaki Kobayakawa was positioned.

Features

Introduction

This article will describe how we visit the ruins of the encampments for the battle of Sekigahara (mainly of the Western Allies). We will finally go to the ruins of Matsuoyama Castle where Hideaki Kobayakawa was positioned. In addition, as for the encampments of the Western Allies, we will visit them not only based on the defacto theory but also based on the new theories. Ogaki Castle may be a good starting point because the battle happened just after Mitsunari Ishida left the castle. You can see some exhibitions of him and the Sekigahara Battle in its restored main tower which has become a historical museum. Sekigahara Station is just few minutes from Ogaki Station.

The current Ogaki Castle
An example of its exhibitions inside
Sekigahara Station

Tour to Encampments of Western Allies based on Defacto Theory

It will be easy for visitors to visit the encampments based on the defacto theory because there are lots of information boards (also written in English). “Sekigahara Historical Landmark Tour” map, provided by the Sekigahara tourist association secretariat, will also help you. The following link is available in English.
(https://www.sekigahara1600.com/download/file/20200109155151.pdf)
So, let us first go to the encampment of Mitsunari Ishida on Sasaoyama Mountain, based on the defacto theory.

An example of the information boards

It may be better to go towards the Battle Site Memorial before reaching the mountain because you can find it easily. You can see the mountain where the flag of Mitsunari’s encampment stands.

The Battle Site Memorial, The flag on the right is Ieyasu’s family crest, while the flag on the left is Mitsunari’s family crest
Sasaoyama Mountain seen from the Battle Site Memorial, Notice the tiny white flags on the mountain

If you reach the foot of the mountain, you will eventually see that it was the encampment of Shima Sakon who was Mitsunari’s senior vassal. In fact, there is no evidence which proves that the mountain was certainly their encampments. The current historical sites were designated by the officials during the Meiji Era, probably based on the local traditions of the Edo Period. However, the top of the mountain looks suitable for the stronghold. You can see a panoramic view from the top, including Nangusan Mountain on the left, where Hiroie Kikkawa was positioned, and Matsuoyama Mountain on the right, where Hideaki was positioned. If Mitsunari would have been on the top, he would have been able to see any suspicious actions by the lord.

The encampment of Shima Sakon
The entrance to Mitsnari’s encampment
The stone monument of Mitsnari’s encampment
The view from the mountain, The mountain on left is Nangusan and the mountain on the right is Matsouyama

Our next target will be the grave site of Yoshitsugu Otani, after passing the encampments of other lords of the Western Allies, such as Yoshihiro Shimazu, Yukinaga Konishi, and Hideie Ukita. You need to walk for few kilometers to reach the target. However, some soldiers who joined the battle testified that the lords were positioned together in the range of only few hundreds of meters. This is another mystery that his often debated by historians and experts.

The encampment of Yoshihiro Shimazu
The encampment of Yukinaga Konishi
The encampment of Hideie Ukita

You will eventually enter the Yamanaka area (which directly means “mountain area”), not like the Sekigahara field. There are actually some ruins of encampments, made by soil, which Yoshitsugu might have built. His grave is in the area, which is said that his retainer originally buried his head there. Takatora Todo, who had been his enemy, heard about it and developed the grave as we can see now. There are always offerings (such as flowers) in front of the grave, from his fans. This is probably because of his episodes in the battle. Yoshitsugu joined the Western Allies because of his friendship with Mitsunari but was defeated by the betrayal of Hideaki (according to the defacto theory).

The grave site of Yoshitsugu Otani

Tour to the Encampments of the Western Allies based on New Theories

Let us next go to the encampment of Yoshitsugu Otani from his grave nearby.
His encampment has been designated based on the defacto theory while a new theory says it was, in fact, that of the Shimazu troops. By the way, there is the view spot of Matsuoyama Mountain near the encampment as well. You can see the flag of Hideaki’s encampment from that spot. I think the view is one of the reasons why Yoshitsugu’s encampment was designated nearby in the defacto theory. The theory says Yoshitsugu was positioned in order to better monitor the betrayal of Hideaki. On the other hand, in the new theory, Yoshitsugu was actually in the Sekigahara field, so another lord was expected to use the encampment instead of him.

The encampment of Yoshitsugu Otani
The view spot of Matsuoyama Mountain
The flag of the encampment of Hideaki Kobayakawa on Matsuoyama Mountain, seen from the view spot

We will next go to the encampment of Mitsunari Ishida, based on the new theory, after climbing down the mountain area. If you walk on the Old Nakasendo Road, you will eventually see a hill up ahead, which is the encampment, called “Jigai-ga-oka”. The hill is also a historical site of Jinshin War during the Ancient Time, called “Jigai-mine-no-sanbon-sugi” which means “The three cedars on Suicide Hill”. A tradition says as followed:
Prince Otomo was defeated by Prince Oama during the war and killed himself in another place. People around the hill, who loved him, got his head and buried in the hill. The three cedars are said to be the mark, which you can visit and see.

Jigai-ga-oka Hill
The three cedars on Suicide Hill, The two remaining cedar trees are not accessible however, because they have a chain fence around them

There is one more spot regarding both the Sekigahara Battle and the Jinshin War, after going on the road over Fujikogawa River. You can find Fuwanoseki Museum, which are the ruins of Fuwanoseki (which means Fuwa Gateway). The new theory says this spot was the encampment of Yoshitsugu Otani. In the Jinshin War, the gateway was the border between the forces of Otomo (the west) and Oama (the east). In the Sekigahara Battle, Sekigahara (which directly means “gateway field”) was that of the Western and Eastern Allies.

Fujikogawa River in the front and Fuwanoseki Museum on the hill in the back
The Fuwanoseki Museum as the ruins of Fuwa Gateway, which might have also been the encampment of Yoshitsugu Otani, The white flag says “Fuwa Gate” while the red flag says “Jinshin War”

We will get closer to Matsuoyama Mountain. There are lots of flags of the Kobayakawa Clan at its entrance. It has a nice atmosphere.

The entrance to Matsuoyama Mountain as the encampment of Hideaki Kobayakawa, The yellow flags show the family crest of Kobayakawa. The 4 flags on the left show two sickles crossing each other.

Going to Matsuoyama Mountain

Matsuoyama Mountain is 293m above sea level and about 200m above the foot of the mountain. If you drive your car, you can park it at the foot. The trail to the top is part of Tokai Natural Trail, which has been well developed. The number of Hideaki’s troops were said to be about 8,000 to 15,000. They were probably stationed from the foot all the way to the top. If the Toi-deppo story is true, the soldiers at the foot would have been able to hear it.

The starting point of the trail, Notice the basket of sticks which is free for visitors to use.  Make sure you return it to the original basket after using it
The trail at the foot

Matsuoyama Castle is often called the encampment of Hideaki Kobayakawa, in fact, it was a full-scale castle. It had the main enclosure on the top and several other enclosures on its ridges. They were surrounded by earthen walls one by one and were divided by dry moats from each other. It also had ditches on the ridges and vertical moats on the slopes in order to prevent enemies from invading it. The castle was mostly fortified by the Western Allies just before the Sekigahara Battle. It was done using natural terrain and construction with soil.

The diorama of Matsuoyama Castle, exhibited by Sekigahara Town History
& Folklore Museum

The trail looks like a well-developed forest road before turning into a fork. There is a sign which says 850m to the top. As you get close to the top, the trail goes beside a ridge which was the eastern enclosure of the castle. If you were an enemy back then, you would have been attacked by the defenders above.

Turn right, at the flag, Notice the drain on the road.  When it rains, the water flows down the mountain, and goes to the drains
850m to the top
The trail goes beside the eastern enclosure

You will eventually see several flags standing on the main enclosure of the top above. One of them is that of Hideaki Kobayakawa’s encampment, which you saw from the view spot of Matsuoyama Mountain. The view from the top is so nice that you will be encouraged to stop and stare for a while. It would have been the view of Kobayakawa according to the defacto theory.

The top will be soon
The main enclosure on the top
The flag of the encampment of Hideaki Kobayakawa
The view of the Sekigahara field from the top of Matsuoyama Mountain, It would have been great if the town decided to cut the trees so that viewers could get a better view of Sekigahara Field

Is it a Castle or is it an Encampment?

Let us check out if Matsuoyama Castle is worth for a full-scale castle at the site. In fact, the opposite side of the trail we climbed looks more fortified, according to the pamphlet of Matsuoyama Castle. (unfortunately, the pamphlet is only available in Japanese)
We will enter the castle from the side.

The layout of the castle (from the pamphlet of Matsuoyama Castle), we first came from above

The path of the entrance gets narrower by being cut by the ditches on both sides. You will next pass an enclosure like a position, which is called the enclosure like Umadashi (the position which sticks out from the gate).

The narrow entrance
The enclosure like Umadashi

The path gets narrower again and wind towards the main enclosure. The entrance of the main enclosure is a square, surrounded by earthen walls, which is generally called Masugata. The route you walked on right now may be the front of the castle, where Hideaki might have also been at.

The path becomes narrow again
The path goes close to the main enclosure, Notice the wooden steps that were added later on by the town
The Masugata system at the entrance of the enclosure

You can also walk down to the dry moats surrounding the main enclosure, from the front of the Masugata system. You will see the vertical cliffs on the slopes of the enclosure, which were artificially cut for defense, on the way to the moats. The bottom of the moats looks spacious tough it is covered with trees and grass now. Historians speculate that it was used as passages or stations for soldiers. The moats also have earthen walls like normal enclosures have.

Going down to the dry moats
The vertical cliffs, Notice the narrow road partially covered in plants.  On the right, is the artificially cut soil, in order ot make the slope steeper for the enemies
The bottom of the moat
The earthen walls on the moat, Notice the sign in Japanese saying “altered earthen walls”

Finally, we will climb another enclosure on a hill, the opposite of the main enclosure. The top of the enclosure is leveled, probably in order to accommodate soldiers in the past. Overall, Matsuoyama Castle must have been a large basement for the Sekigahara Battle. I have confirmed that it was not only a simple encampment but also a full-scale castle.

Climbing the slope to another enclosure
The top of the enclosure

My Impression

After visiting the Sekigahara area, I think it still has a mysterious vibe and can accept adventurous spirits with many theories. In addition, I also learned that the area has a long history including the gateway and battle between eastern and western Japan since the ancient time. In fact, the battle between them still continues today in the category of noodles. You can buy two types of instant noodles for eastern and western Japan there at the souvenir shop. Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum is a very popular spot for visitors where you can learn about the battle and buy other souvenirs. You can also get Goshuin stamps (you can stamp a piece of paper to commemorate your experience) of the encampments you visited there; However, you will need to show the pictures to the counter staff as evidence.

The Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum
The two types of instant noodles for eastern and western Japan, The left is the “western type” while the one on the right is the “eastern type”.
The Goshuin stamps for three encampments, The left is the grave of Otani, the center represents Matsuoyama Mountain, and finally the one the right is Sasaoyama

That’s all. Thank you.

Back to “Matsuoyama Castle Part1”

205.Matsuoyama Castle Part1

The battle of Sekigahara, which occurred in 1600, is one of the biggest events in Japanese history. The highlight of the battle has been said to be the betrayal of Hideaki Kobayakawa. However, historians are trying to re-create the Sekigahara story by reviewing the few remaining primary sources and some of the secondary ones which were reliable.

Location and History

Introduction

The battle of Sekigahara, which occurred on the 15th of September 1600 (according to the lunar calendar), is one of the biggest events in Japanese history. The highlight of the battle has been said to be the betrayal of Hideaki Kobayakawa. The widely accepted theory says the followings. Hideaki first supported the western allies and settled on Matsuoyama Castle, in the south of the Sekigahara field. However, he still waited to see the battle for a while, wondering which ally would be better, the eastern or the western. He had made a secret agreement with Ieyasu Tokugawa, who was the top of the eastern allies, to support. Initially, Koyakawa did not move, therefore Ieyasu got tired of waiting. He then ordered his soldiers to shoot at the Hideaki’s troops. The shooting was called “Toi-deppo” which means to force by guns. Hideaki was very surprised to hear that. In that instance, he quickly decided to support the eastern allies. This indecision by Kobayakawa lead to the death of Mitsunari, but gave victory to Ieyasu.

The folding screens of the Sekigahara Battle, owned by Sekigahara Town History and Folklore Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Recent studies suggest the betrayal of Hideaki and the Toi-deppo story.
The whole story of the Sekigahara battle is consisted of very few primary sources and many other secondary sources. The Toi-deppo story comes from one of the secondary sources. The Sekigahara Battle is long. One part of the story refers to Toi-Deppo, which was first written in the Keicho Gunki, a war chronicle which was written over 50 years after the battle. If the story is a fiction, the timing of Hideaki’s decision would also be doubtful. Historians are trying to re-create the Sekigahara story by reviewing the few remaining primary sources and some of the secondary ones which were reliable. In addition, Matsuoyama Castle has been said to be the base of Hideaki Kobayakawa during the Sekigahara battle. However, it would also be important to know when and how the castle was built and used.

The portrait of Hideaki Kobayakawa, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

This article will explain three different theories of Hideaki and Matsuoyama Castle with three different viewpoints.
The viewpoints will include:
a. What and where did Hideaki go before the Sekigahara battle?
b. Why did Sekigahara become the battlefield and when and how did Hideaki settle on Matsuoyama Castle?
c. When did Hideaki really decided to support the eastern allies?

The theories on this article will include:

  1. The defacto theory including the Toi-deppo story
  2. The theory that Hideaki was not a betrayer
  3. The theory that the western allies would attack Matsuoyama Castle

    As a preface, I will describe the prehistory of Hideaki and Matsuoyama Castle before the battle.

Hideaki and Matsuoyama Castle before Sekigahara Battle.

Hideaki was born in 1582 as the fifth boy of Iesada Kinoshita who was the big brother of Kitano-mandokoro, the first lady of Hideyoshi Toyotomi. He was adopted by Hideyoshi when he was a child and was raised by Kitano-mandokoro. Surprisingly, Hiedaki celebrated his Coming of Age at only 7 years old and became a noble. This was because he was one of the candidates to be Hideyoshi’s successor. However, after Hideyori Toyotomi, Hideyoshi’s own child was born, Hideaki was adopted again by the Kobayakawa Clan. Hideyoshi thought Hideyori would have become his successor.

The portrait of Iesada Kinoshita, the biological father of Hideaki, owned by Kenninji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

There is an interesting episode about that from a war chronicle as follow. Hideyoshi originally wanted to adopt Hideaki to the Mori Clan and for the Mori Clan to take over, which was the head family of the Kobayakawa Clan. Takakage Kobayakawa, the lord of the clan offered to Hideyoshi to accept Hideaki to protect his master. However, according to historians, Takakage probably decided it by himself. This was because Takakage was an independent lord after he was given his own territory by Hideyoshi. Takakage assumed he would return the territory to Hideyoshi so that he could build a good relationship with him.

The portrait of Takakage Kobayakawa, owned by Beisanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Hideaki’s new territory was at Chikuzen Province (which is part of Fukuoka Prefecture now) which was one of the basements for the invasion of Korea by Hideyoshi. Hideaki also went to Korea as the supreme commander when he was 16 years old (so, it was just a formality). However, when he went back to Japan in 1598, he was forced to move to Echizen Province (the current Fukui Pref.) by Hideyoshi. The reason for it is uncertain. War cornicles suggest that Hideaki made a mistake in the invasion, while historians speculate that Hideyoshi wanted to rule Chikuzen Province directly to boost his invasion. The fact is, after Hideyoshi died, that Hideaki returned to Chikuzen Province and was considered one of the great lords of Japan, following the members of Counsil of Five Elders in the top government. This would trigger the Battle of Sekigahara.

The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Matsuoyama Castle was located on the border between Omi (the current Shiga Pref.) and Mino (Gifu Pref.) Provinces. A record says that a retainer of Nagamasa Azai, who owned Omi Province, was assigned to the castle during the Sengoku Period. This was probably because Nagamasa was against Nobunaga Oda who owned Mino Province at that time. Nobunaga would eventually get Omi Province before the castle was abandoned. On the 10th of Argust, 1600 (according to the luna calendar), Mitsunari Ishida entered Ogaki Castle. Mitsunari ordered his retainer to resume Matsuoyama Castle. Mitsunari thought that his Western Allies would attack the Eastern Allies based on Ogaki Castle, backed up by other mountain castles. Matsuoyama Castle was one of them. A historian speculates that Mitsunari thought that Terumoto Mori, the greatest lord in the Western Allies would enter Matsuoyama Castle. Anyway, the castle was refortified again to prepare for the battle.

The flag of Hideaki Kobayakawa at the ruins of Matsuoyama Castle; You can see this flag on top of the mountain, This is a modern flag that helps tourist find this location

Defacto theory including Toi-deppo story

It is confirmed that the Western Allies captured Fushimi Castle on the 1st of August (according to the lunar calendar). It is also certain that the troops of Hideaki Kobayakawa joined the attackers as the main force. After that, according to the de facto theory, many of the Western Allies, including Mitsunari Ishida, stayed in Ogaki Castle, while Hideaki marched over to Omi Province (the current Shiga Province). There is evidence of his actions there. remains at a temple of the province. There is a noticeboard where Hideak’s soldiers were asked not to be violent in the temple. Hideaki still supported the Western Allies, however, he also negotiated with the Eastern Allies. A secret letter from Nagamasa Kuroda and Yoshinaga Asano was given to Hideaki before the battle. The letter is written as followed.

“We (Nagamasa and Yoshinaga) will need to serve Kitano-mandokoro.
You need to decide whether or not you will support us until Ieyasu arrives here.”

Kitano-mandokoro took care of Nagamasa earlier on. He managed to persuade Hideaki that it would be needed to support the Eastern Allies if Hideaki wanted to serve Kitano-mandokoro from then on.

The temple whom Hideaki gave the noticeboard (quoted from the website of Maibara City)

Ieyasu arrived at Aakasaka Camp on the 14th of September, near Ogaki Castle. He wanted to have an open field battle, which he was good at, so he needed to lure Mitsunari out from the castle. Ieyasu intentionally announced that he would attack Sawayama Castle, which was Mitsunari’s home and far to the west from Ogaki. When Mitsunari heard this, he was surprised and left the castle in a hurry, got ahead of Ieyasu, and took up positions on Sekigahara Field on the way to Sawayama. Hideaki also reached Matsuoyama Castle in the south of Sekigahara in accordance with Mitsunari’s instructions. Historians speculate that Mitsunari might have tried to escape to Sawayama Castle with his own decision. This is because a letter of Hiroie Kikkawa, who was one of the members of the Western Allies on Nangusan Castle between Ogaki and Sekigahara, says so. However, Mitsunari couldn’t do that because had to prevent the eastern allies from invading Sekigahara on the way there. Yoshitsugu Otani, a lord of the Western Allies only expected that Hideaki would betray him, therefore, Yoshitsugu’s troops moved closer to Matsuoyama.

The portrait of Mitsunari Ishida, from the database of Historiographical Institute, the University of Tokyo (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The battle between the Eastern and the Western Allies occurred early in the morning on the 15th of September. It went back and forth until noon. Hiroie’s troops on Nangusan and Kobayakawa’s troops didn’t move because of their secret pact with Ieyasu. However, Ieyasu got annoyed as Hideaki had also promised that he would join the Eastern Allies. That’s why Ieyasu ordered the Toi-deppo (a way to induce or encourage solider to move by shooting directly at them). Hideaki’s decision happened around noon. Some of the soldiers who joined the Western Allies testified after the battle as followed:

“The Eastern Allies and Otani’s troops battled each other 6 or 7 times in the morning. Kobayakawa’s troops, then, rushed down from the mountain into Otani’s side and destroyed them.”

As for the Toi-deppo story, it may be a fiction as mentioned above. However, a historian found another tradition that might have been the origin of the story as followed:

An old man in Bizen Province (the current Okayama Pref.) heard about an interesting story from Kobayakawa’s retainer. During the battle, Hideaki heard gunshots at the foot of the mountain. His retainers reported that the shooters of the Eastern Allies said that the gunshots were not intentional and that they just misfired. The retainers also added it might have included something else.

The historian speculates that the shooting could have been an indirect warning from Ieyasu. However, this theory is still not the number one theory according to historians.

The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Theory that Hideaki was not a Betrayer

I will next explain a new theory about Hideaki and Matsuoyama Castle. Accorting to this theory, it is uncertain where Hideaki was after the battle of Fushimi Castle just before the Sekigahara Battle. The de facto theory says he was in Omi Province at that time. However, that comes from the family records of the Inaba Clan which was written during the Edo Period. The records also say their founder, who was a senior vassal of Hideaki, captured Matsuoyama Castle for the Eastern Allies. That means the records were manipulated by his descendants to show their contributions to the current shogunate, which may not be plausible now. On the other hand, a lord of the Eastern Allies reported that Hideaki stayed in Ogaki Castle just before the Sekigahara Battle. This is contradictory. Overall, in my opinion, I think Hideaki was undecided as to who he would support until the moment he rode up the mountain.

The portrait of Masanari Inaba, who was a senior vassal of Hideaki, owned by Kanagawa Prefectural Museum of Cultural History (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

In fact, there is also no certain evidence where Hideaki was positioned at the beginning of Sekigahara Battle. However, another evidence suggests it. The letter of Hiroie Kikkawa, mentioned above, says an interesting matter just before the battle.

“The Western Allies moved from Ogaki Castle to Yamanaka (the west of Sekigahara) in order to rescue Yoshitsugu Otani because Hedeaki would be fighting against them.”

According to the letter, Hideaki and Yoshitsugu had already arrived early to inspect the field. In addition, a letter that Masamune Date wrote, who was reported from his relative about the Sekigahara battle, also says:

“The Western Allies moved from Ogaki Castle to support Nangusan Castle.”

Overall, historians speculate why Sekigahara became the battlefield as followed: Ieyasu at Akasaka Camp first tried to attack Nangusan Castle. Mitsunari heard about this and tried to intercept Hideaki, so he decided to leave Ogaki Castle and went to Sekigahara. Then, Hiroie Kikkawa at Nangusan Castle surrendered to Ieyasu who next ordered his troops to chase after Mitsunari. The Western Allies eventually reached Yamanaka and positioned themselves, which was not Sekigahara. This is another different point from the defacto theory.

The portrait of Hiroie Kikkawa, owned by Historiographical Institute the University of Tokyo (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

If they are true, Hideaki declared he would join the Eastern Allies at the latest the day before the battle. The battle started around 10am, where Hideaki joined it at the same time, and the Western Allies were defeated by the Eastern Allies quickly. They are different from the defacto story. The theories of the starting time of the battle are also different depending on the testimonies of the participants. Historians speculate as followed. In the early morning at Sekigahara field which was covered in fog. The Otani troops went ahead from the Yamanaka area to the Sekigahara field. It first battled against the frontline of the Eastern Allies. When the fog cleared up around 10am, the Kobayakawa troops attacked the Otani troops which would eventually be destroyed. After that, the main forces from both the Eastern and Western Allies fought against each other at the Yamanaka area, but the Western Allies were also destroyed in a short amount of time. Ieyasu wrote in his letters that Hideaki worked well in Sekigahara and his troops destroyed the Western Allies including Mitsunari in Yamanaka.

The last position of Ieyasu Tokugawa at the Sekigahara field, this is the encampment of the eastern allies, The two inner flags show Ieyasu’s family crest, while the two outer flags show his motto

The theory that Western Allies would attack Matsuoyama Castle

The previous theory can help us understand that Hideaki was not a betrayer in the middle of the battle. However, the theory is consisted of much circumstantial evidence. It doesn’t show us the clear conflicted formation between Hideaki and the Western Allies. (Situations of battles may sometimes be like that.) Another theory by another historian may clear this up. The main idea of the theory is that the Sekigahara Battle happened when the Western Allies tried to destroy Hideaki’s troops on Matsuoyama Castle. In this theory, Hideaki was stationed in Omi Province and negotiated with the Eastern Allies before entering the castile, the same as the defacto theory. However, the theory speculates that Hideaki made his decision to join the Eastern Allies in advance of reaching Matsuoyama Castle, which is the different point from the defacto theory.

The ruins of Matsuoyama Castle

The biggest difference in this theory from other ones is the reason why Mitsunari left Ogaki Castle. According to this theory, Mitsunari heard about Hideaki’s rebellion during the meeting at the castle on the 14th of September, the day before the Sekigahara Battle. Mitsunari decided to leave the castle to destroy Hideaki. One of the pieces of evidence for the theory is the same part of the letter Hiroie Kikkawa wrote, as the previous theory uses. It says “the Western Allies went from Ogaki Castle to Yamanaka (near Sekigahara) in order to rescue Yoshitsugu Otani because Hideaki would be fighting against them” in the previous theory. However, the same part says in this theory that “The Western Allies were going to attack Yamanaka, which meant Hideaki’s rebellion became obvious, so Yoshitsugu Otani followed them from Ogaki Castle.” Why are the interpretations of the same part so different between each other? This is probably because letters of warlords were usually written using simple and often vague facts, so that the interpretations of the current historians may sometimes become different. Another reason is sometimes the messenger would be intercepted, and vague instructions would be hard for the enemy to understand.

The grave of Yoshitsugu Otani in the Yamanaka area

Mitsunari was positioned on Jigai-ga-oka Hill in front of Matsuoyama Castle on Matsuoyama Mountain, not on Sasaoyama Mountain which the defacto theory says. According to the testimonies of some soldiers who joined the battle, the Ukita and Konishi’s troops were on the frontline against the castle to the south, back upped by the Shimazu’s troops. Mitsunari’s troops were in the eastern side of the Shimazu. The Eastern Allies including Ieyasu chased after Mitsunari in order to rescue Hideaki who had already joined them. That’s why they saw, from the east, the Western Allies like Miatunari on the frontline, back upped by the Shimazu’s troops, which were written in other records. The Otani’s troops finally arrived and was positioned at Sekigahara field in the eastern side of his allies. As a result, they were first attacked by the Eastern Allies, then sandwiched between the Eastern Allies and Hideaki’s troops, and eventually destroyed.

Jigai-ga-oka Hill

Some of the soldiers who joined the Western Allies testified after the battle as followed:

“The Eastern Allies and Otani’s troops battled each other 6 or 7 times in the morning. Kobayakawa’s troops, then, rushed down from the mountain into Otani’s side and destroyed them.”

This is the same testimony that proves the defacto theory.
It is very interesting that this testimony proves two different situations.

To be continued in “Matsuoyama Castle Part2”

205.松尾山城 その2

今回は、関ヶ原合戦の陣地を西軍中心に回ってから、最終的には小早川秀秋が布陣していた松尾山城跡を目指す形で、見どころを紹介します。西軍陣地も、従来説のものに加えて、新説で言われている新たな候補地も回ってみます。

特徴、見どころ

イントロダクション

今回は、関ヶ原合戦の陣地を西軍中心に回ってから、最終的には小早川秀秋が布陣していた松尾山城跡を目指す形で、見どころを紹介します。西軍陣地も、従来説のものに加えて、新説で言われている新たな候補地も回ってみます。そこで、スタート地点として大垣城を選びました。関ヶ原合戦は、西軍を率いていた石田三成がここから移動したことをきっかけに起こったからです。大垣城天守内にも、やはり三成や関ヶ原合戦の展示があります。大垣から関ヶ原までは、電車ですぐです。

現在の大垣城天守
大垣城天守内の展示(一例)
関ヶ原駅

西軍陣地めぐり(従来説)

従来説の各陣地は、現地の案内表示が充実しているので、観光マップが手元にあれば、迷うことはないでしょう。まずは従来説の、石田三成・笹尾山陣地に向かっていきます。

現地案内表示の一例

笹尾山に行くには、一旦「関ヶ原古戦場決戦地」を目指すといいと思います。向こうの方に三成の陣の幟が見えてきます。

関ヶ原古戦場決戦地
決戦地から見える笹尾山

笹尾山の麓に着くと、そこは三成の重臣・島左近陣地となっています。そして笹尾山を登っていくのですが、ここに三成が陣を布いたという合戦当時の記録はありません。恐らくは江戸時代の地誌などに基づいて、明治時代に各部将の陣地を定めたものの一つなのです。

島左近陣跡
笹尾山陣地への入口
石田三成陣跡

しかし場所的には、いかにも本陣がありそうなところで、南宮山から、松尾山まで、怪しい人たちの様子も見渡せたのではと思ってしまいます。

笹尾山からの眺め

次の目標地点は大谷吉継墓ですが、その間に西軍諸将の陣地跡を通過します。「島津義弘」「小西行長」「宇喜多秀家」と続きます。その間は結構な距離(キロメートル単位)になりますが、島津隊の兵士からは、各部将は密集して布陣していた(百メートル単位の距離)との証言もあります。

島津義弘陣跡
小西行長陣跡
宇喜多秀家陣跡

そこから後は、文字通り「山中」に入っていきます。その辺りからは、陣地を構築した跡が多くみられるそうです。吉継が先に行って、陣地を構築していたのかもしれません。この墓の場所の由来としては、自害した吉継の首を、部下(湯淺五助)が埋葬し、後に敵方の藤堂家によりお墓が建てられたと言われています。今でもお供えが絶えることがありません。

大谷吉継墓

西軍陣地めぐり(新説)

大谷吉継墓からは、近くにある吉継の陣跡に向かいます。これは「従来説」による呼称なのですが、新説の一つ(高橋陽介氏による)では、島津隊の陣となっているのです。

大谷吉継陣跡

ところで、この近くに「松尾山眺望地」という場所があります。そこからは、松尾山の小早川秀秋陣地跡を望むことができます。従来説では、秀秋の裏切りを見抜いた吉継がこの辺に布陣したことになっているので、きっとこの眺望も根拠の一つになったのでしょう。しかし、前回記事でご紹介したどの説(従来説は現代の歴史家による修正布陣図による)でも、吉継は別の所に移動していることになっています。よって、先ほどの新説では、三成との位置関係から、島津が使ったとしたのではないでしょうか。

松雄山眺望地
山に「小早川秀秋陣地」の幟が見えます

今度は山を下って、新説による三成陣地に行きましょう。旧中山道に入ると、前方に小山が見えてきます。新説で三成陣地とされた「自害が岡」です。不吉な名前だと思うかもしれませんが、古代にこの地から起こった壬申の乱の史跡(自害峯の三本杉)になっているのです。乱で敗れた大友皇子(弘文天皇)の御首(みしるし)を、皇子を慕ったこの地の人たちがもらい受け、ここに埋葬したという伝説があります。名前はその故事に由来していて、御陵候補地にもなっています。時代がクロスオーバーした場所なのです。

自害が岡
自害峯の三本杉

そのような場所がもう一つあります。藤古川を渡ったところに、不破関資料館があるのですが、そこは、古代の不破関跡で、新説では大谷吉継布陣地ではないかとされています。不破の関と関ヶ原、この地はずっと境目の場所だったのです。

藤古川を渡る橋(手前)と不破関資料館(奥の丘の上)
不破関資料館、不破関跡、そして新説における大谷吉継布陣地

いよいよ松尾山です。山への入口には、小早川の旗印が並んでいます。雰囲気満点です。

松尾山(小早川秀秋陣跡)への入口

松尾山城へ

松尾山は標高293メートルありますが、麓からは約200メートルの高さだそうです。麓に駐車場もあって、山道は「東海自然歩道」の一部として整備されています。秀秋の軍勢は8千人とも1万5千人とも言われていますので、山麓まで兵がいたかもしれません。そうであれば、「問鉄砲」が本当なら銃声も聞こえたことでしょう。

松尾山登山口
山麓の登山道

松尾山城は「小早川秀秋陣」と言われますが、実は本格的な山城だったのです。山頂がある「主郭(本丸)」を中心に、山の峰に曲輪群が配置されていました。曲輪を土塁で囲み、空堀・堀切・竪堀を掘って、敵の移動や攻撃を防ぐようになっていました。これらの城の改修のほとんどは、関ヶ原合戦の前に行われました。山の地形を加工して、このような城を作ったのです。

松尾山城のジオラマ、関ヶ原町歴史民俗学習館にて展示

途中から右に曲がって、山道という感じになります。あと850メートルという案内があります。

旗印のところを右に曲がります
あと850m!

だんだん山頂に近づいていきますが、道は「東の曲輪」の下を通っているので、敵だったら攻撃されてしまいます。

道は、東の曲輪の下を通ります

やがて、幟が何本も見えてきます。ついに山頂の主郭に着きました。山の向こうから見えていた「小早川秀秋陣地」の幟も立っています。

山頂近く
山頂の主郭
「小早川秀秋陣地」の幟

山頂からは関ヶ原が一望できます。従来説の小早川秀秋ではなくとも、本当に日和見してしまいそうです。

山頂からの眺め

果たして陣なのか城なのか?

松尾山城が「お城」に値するものなのか、実地でチェックしてみましょう。実は、登ってきたのと反対側の方が、城の防御がより充実しているのです。そちら側に行ってから、改めて入城してみましょう。

松尾山城の縄張り図、「松尾山城パンフレット(関ヶ原観光協会)」より、来た道は上方から、これから進む道が下方から

最初の入口は、堀切を作ってわざと細くしています。

堀切に挟まれた入口

その次は、陣地のような曲輪を通ります。「馬出状の曲輪」と呼ばれています。

馬出状の曲輪

道はまた細くなって、曲がりながら主郭に入っていきます。

道はまた細くなります
主郭に向かいます

主郭の入口は土塁に囲まれた四角いスペースになっています。「枡形虎口」です。まるでこちらが正面のようです。小早川秀秋もここから入城したかもしれません。

桝形虎口

桝形虎口の手前からは空堀に下っていくこともできます。斜面を人工的に削った「切岸」が見えます。

空堀の方に下ります
切岸

空堀の底は、草木で覆われてはいるものの、結構広々としています。通路や兵士の居場所にも使われたと想定されています。また、堀の底にも防衛用の土塁を築かれています(喰違い土塁)。

空堀
喰違い土塁

本郭から空堀を挟んだ曲輪(名無し?)にも登ってみましょう。ここも広々としていて、城全体が基地のようになっているのがわかります。

となりの曲輪に登ります
曲輪の内部

松尾山城はただの「陣」ではなく、本格的な「城」ということが実感できました。

私の感想

関ヶ原は、いろんな説が出てくるだけの謎とロマンに満ちていると、現地をめぐって改めてそう思いました。また、古代から関所や決戦の地だったこともわかりました。東西対決は今でも続いていて、麺の東西対決のお土産を買うことができます。それから、岐阜関ヶ原古戦場記念館では、陣地めぐりをしたビジター向けに御朱印を販売していますので、こちらもおすすめです(別館ショップ、訪問したときの写真等が必要)。古戦場記念館も2020年にオープンし、人気のスポットになっていますので、中の展示をご覧になってはいかがでしょう。

岐阜関ヶ原古戦場記念館
麺の東西対決
関ヶ原合戦御朱印

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。

「松尾山城その1」に戻ります。

今回の内容を趣向を変えて、Youtube にも投稿しました。よろしかったらご覧ください。