中部地方～Chubu Region – ページ 9 – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

140.Genbao Castle Part3

The ruins were discovered after 400-year sleep.

Features

Largest Enclosure in back

If you want to go out of the Main Enclosure from the back entrance, you will need to turn left and right on the narrow route through the other Umadashi Enclosure like the front side. This means the back side of the castle was also protected heavily. The Enclosure II is at the very back and was the largest of the Castle. Therefore, Historians speculate it was used as a military post. On the other hand, the entrance of the enclosure to the outside is very simple and had no defensive capability. Historians also speculate this part had been uncompleted before the Battle of Shizugatake happened.

The map around the castle

The narrow earthen bridge connecting the Main Enclosure and the Enclosure ii

the entrance of the Enclosure II to the outside

Later History

Genbao Castle was eventually abandoned after Katsuie was defeated in 1583. The ruins of it were buried naturally and returned to nature covered with trees and bushes for over 400 years. However, a local historian discovered the ruins after his research based on some records and traditions in 1980. The ruins were finally designated as a National Historic Site in 1999. The ruins are now considered as very rare ones which clearly shows the who, the when and the why the castle was built. Historians can see that the techniques used in the castle were those used in the period when the Battle of Shizugatake happened.

My Impression

I was surprised to see such a complex structured castle was built on the top of a mountain. I was also convinced to learn the reason for why it was built. I remember that there is another complex structured castle ruins made of pure soil the same as Genbao, called Suginaya Castle in Saitama Prefecture. However, unlike Genbao, it is quite uncertain the who, the when and the why it was built. Some historians think Sugiyama Castle was built in the same period as Genbao Castle because they are similar. On the other hand, others argue that they are, in fact, different in some ways. Either way, it is also an interesting discussion.

How to get There

I recommend using a car when you visit the castle ruins.
It is about a 20-minute drive away from Kinomoto IC on the Hokuriku Expressway. There is a parking lot beside the entrance of the trail to the castle ruins.
After getting off from the IC, go along the National Route 365 to the north, turn right to the Prefectural Road 140 at the junction, and go through the Yanagase Tunnel. This tunnel had originally been used for the former Hokuriku Railway Line until 1964 and turned into the current road. Make sure that it is a one-way traffic which is controlled by the traffic light. Just after coming out of the tunnel, turn right to the forest road to the parking lot.
If you drive from the north of the ruins, such as Fukui Prefecture, go along the National Route 8 to the south, turn left to the Prefectural Road 140 at the junction, and turn left to the forest road in front of the Yanagase Tunnel.

The parking lot beside the entrance of the trail

The Yanagase Tunnel *(licensed by Alpsdake via Wikimedia Commons)*

The northern starting point of the Prefectural Road 140

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Genbao Castle Part1”
Back to “Genbao Castle Part2”

140.玄蕃尾城　その３

城跡は、４００年の眠りの後、発見されました。

特徴、見どころ

本丸背後の最大曲輪

本丸の搦手口から出るには、正面口と同じように、左に曲がってもう一つの馬出郭の細い通路を通らねばなりません。城の裏側も厳重に守られていたのです。郭２は、城の中では最も後ろにあり最も大きい曲輪です（現地では「搦手郭」または「虎口郭」と表記されています）。よって、歴史家はここは駐屯地として使われたのではないかとしています。一方で、この曲輪の外側からの入口はとても単純で、防御的ではありません。よって、この部分は未完成のまま賤ヶ岳の戦いが起こったのではないかとも考えられています。

城周辺の地図

その後

玄蕃尾城は、1583年の勝家の敗戦の後、ほどなく廃城となりました。城跡は自然と埋もれていき、草木に覆われ、４００年もの間、自然の状態に戻っていました。ところが、1980年にある郷土史家（長谷川博美氏）が記録や言い伝えに基づき調査した結果、城跡を発見したのです。城跡はその後、1999年に国の史跡に指定されました。この城跡は、現在では誰がいつ何のために築城したのかが明確である稀有な事例として認識されています。歴史家は、この城で使われていた築城技術が、賤ヶ岳の戦いが起こった時代のものとして研究ができるということです。

私の感想

山の頂に、このような複雑な構造をもった城が築かれたということに驚きを覚えました。また、この城が築かれた理由についても理解できました。それと、玄蕃尾城を見ていて、同じように純粋な土造りだが非常に複雑な構造をもったもう一つの城跡を思い出しました。現在の埼玉県にあった杉山城のことです。しかし、杉山城の場合は、誰がいつ何のために築城したのか判明していません。歴史家の中には、杉山城は玄蕃尾城とよく似ており、同じ時期に築城されたという人がいます。一方、城の築き方が違うとして、それに反論する歴史家もいます。どちらに分があるかは正直わからないのですが、興味深い議論だと思います。

ここに行くには

この城跡を訪れるには、車を使われることをお勧めします。
北陸自動車道の木之本ICから約２０分かかります。城跡に向かう山道の入口前に駐車場があります。
そのインターチェンジからは、国道365号線を北に進んで、分岐点で県道140号線に入り、柳ケ瀬トンネルを進んでください。このトンネルは、もともと鉄道の北陸本線用として1964年まで使われていたものを、現在の道路として転用されました。片道車線となっているので、信号を見て進行可能かどうか確認してください。トンネルから出たところで右に曲がり、駐車場まで林道を進んでください。
また、例えば福井県など北の方から来られる場合には、国道8号線を南に進み、分岐点で県道140号線に入り、柳ケ瀬トンネルの手前で左に曲がり、林道を進んでください。

柳ケ瀬トンネル *(licensed by Alpsdake via Wikimedia Commons)*

リンク、参考情報

・国指定史跡　玄蕃尾城の御案内、敦賀市
・「戦国の山城を極める　厳選２２城／加藤理文　中井均著」学研プラス
・「歴史群像１７４号、地形から読み解く　賤ヶ岳の戦い」学研
・「歴史群像３７号、戦史検証　激闘賤ヶ岳合戦」学研
・「杉山城の時代／西股総生著」角川選書

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「玄蕃尾城その１」に戻ります。
「玄蕃尾城その２」に戻ります。

140.Genbao Castle Part2

A complex structured castle on the mountain

Features

Going to Castle Ruins through Trail

Today, the ruins of Genbao Castle have been well developed as a National Historic Site, even if they were at the top of a mountain. There are no castle buildings and only the foundations made of soil remained. However, it is good enough for us to understand what the castle was like because it was a specific battle castle. To reach the castle ruins, you need to walk for about 30 minutes from the parking lot. You will pass the old mountain pass called Tone-toge and climb the mountain where the castle was built.

The mountain looks natural being covered by woods and bushes around the trail, so you may be wondering if the castle ruins were built in such a place. However, you will eventually reach where the castle ruins are more visible. This is because officials or volunteers would often cut down trees and bushes in order for people to see the ruins clearly.

The castle ruins will eventually become visible

Complex route to Center of Castle

The trail to the castle ruins is from the south, which was the front side of the castle. You can still see the side was strongly protected. The enclosure you first meet is called the Enclosure I which is surrounded by earthen walls. The entrance of the enclosure is not open to the front in the south, but the left side in the west. That means you need to walk around the walls and turn right.

The map around the castle

Looking back the entrance of the Enclosure I

The route to the *Enclosure I* (the red arrow) and the counterattack from the enclosure (the blue arrow)

To get to the next one called the Koguchi Enclosure, you will have to walk on the narrow earthen bridge beside a ditch, and after that turn left.

the narrow earthen bridge to the Koguchi Enclosure

The ditch beside the earthen walls limits the route for enemies to attack

The route to the Koguchi Enclosure (the red arrow) and the counterattack from the enclosure (the blue arrow)

The Main Enclosure is the next area, but one of its Umadashi Enclosures is in front of it to prevent anyone from entering directly. You need to turn right again from the Koguchi, go around the Umadashi, and cut through the front entrance of the Main Enclosure. If you were an enemy, your attack route could be limited and would be attacked from the side while turning several times.

Turning right to go around the Umadashi Enclosure

The earthen walls in front of the Main Enclosure are also narrow

The route to the Main Enclosure (the red arrow) and the counterattack from the enclosure (the blue arrow)

Main Enclosure controls all directions

The inside of the Main Enclosure is a square, which is also surrounded by earthen walls. There is the earthen mound at the northeastern corner where the Main Tower or a large turret was built.

The turret base at the northeastern corner

It has the other Umadashi Enclosure in front of the back entrance in the north. It also has a small entrance in the east with the Overhang Enclosure in front of it. The east of the Main Enclosure is a slope of the mountain. Historians say this structure proves the builders thought enemies could also attack from this direction as well. The west of it is a very deep valley which was difficult for enemies to attack from. However, a ditch was elaborately built in front of the earthen walls on this side.

The location map of the Main Enclosure, adding red English letters

The Overhang Enclosure at the eastern side

To be continued in “Genbao Castle Part3”
Back to “Genbao Castle Part1”