158.Fukuchiyama Castle Part3

As long as looking at the stone wall base for the Main Tower of Fukuchiyama Castle, Mitsuhide Akechi seems to have followed a policy of Nobunaga Oda’s castle constructions. That means Mitsuhide was a follower of Nobunaga.

Features

Views from Restored Main Tower

The current Main Tower is actually a restored modern building which is used as a historical museum and an observation platform, where you can learn about Mitsuhide Akechi and the history of the castle. You can also enjoy a view of the city area around the castle from the top floor. For instance, you can see the Third Enclosure which is used as the City Hall on the right and the Hoki-maru Enclosure which has become a park on the left, over the residential area of the former Second Enclosure in the west.

The map around the castle

The interrior of the Main Tower
A view to the west from the tower
The Third Enclosure has become the City Hall
The Hoki-maru Park

In the northern direction, you can see the Yuragawa River and the bank along it that Mitsuhide built, and it’s called Akechi-yabu or Akechi-bush. Mitsuhide planted bamboos along the river bank to make it durable.

A view to the north from the tower
The Akechi Bush

Only remaining building of Castle

Akagane-mon Bansho or the Guardhouse for the Bronze Gate, which is located in the Main Enclosure, is the only remaining part of the building and is one of its attractions. It had been originally built in the Second Enclosure, but was moved to the current position because the said Second enclosure was removed. In addition, the building of the Bronze Gate was moved to Shogenji Temple in the city and is used as its front gate.

The map around the castle

The Guardhouse for the Bronze Gate in the Main Enclosure
The ruins of the Bronze Gate
The front gate of Shogenji Temple, quoted from the Fukuchiyama City Website

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Fukuchiyama Castle was abandoned and most of the castle buildings including the Main Tower were demolished or moved. It is said that the 20th Infantry Regiment of the Imperial Japanese Army destroyed the Second Enclosure for the convenient of the transit between their station and maneuvering ground. On the other hand, people in Fukuchiyama wanted to restore the Main Tower as a symbol of the city for a long time. The restoration launched since 1968 when the illustration of the castle in the Edo Period was found. It is once faced with a budget problem, but it was completed in 1986 with lot of donation from the citizens, which was more than a half of the final budget.

The Second Enclosure was removed and became the city area

My Impression

One of the popular assumptions of the reason for Mitsuhide’s rebellion has been the difference of Nobunaga and Mitsuhide’s characters. It is said that Nobunaga was radical while Mitsuhide was traditional. However, as long as looking at the stone wall base for the Main Tower of Fukuchiyama Castle, Mitsuhide seems to have followed a policy of Nobunaga’s castle constructions. It refers to using anything including Buddhism items to build their castles immediately. I honestly say that the stone walls using the tomb stones looks little strange. There is no telling how people at that time felt. I think Mitsuhide was definitely a follower of Nobunaga. A new assumption recently came that Mitsuhide’s position became weak during the discussion about how Nobunaga would invade the Shikoku Region. Mitsuhide’s opinion about it was rejected and his rival, Hideyoshi’s one was taken by Nobunaga. The Honnoji Incident occurred just before the invasion would be done. I’m wondering if the real reason for Mitsuhide’s decision will be uncovered.

The joint of the newer stones on the left and the older ones on the right for the stone wall base of Fukuchiyama Castle’s Main Tower
The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about 3 kms away from Fukuchiyama IC on the Maizuru-Wakasa Expressway. There is a parking lot beside the castle hill.
By public transportation, it takes about 15 minutes on foot to get there from JR Fukuchiyama Station.
From Tokyo to Fukuchiyama Station: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Sanin Line at Kyoto Station.

The parking lot of the Fukuchiyama Castle Park

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Fukuchiyama Castle Part1”
Back to “Fukuchiyama Castle Part2”

158.福知山城 その3

福知山城の天守台石垣を見る限り、明智光秀は信長信長の城郭建築の方針に従っていたように思えます。つまり光秀は、忠実な信長への追随者だったのです。

特徴、見どころ

復元天守からの眺め

現在の天守は復元されたとはいっても、実際には近代的なビルであり、歴史博物館と展望台として使われています。天守の中では明智光秀のことや城の歴史を学ぶことができます。最上階からは、城周辺の市街地の景色を眺めることができます。例えば西の方には、住宅地となった元二の丸地区の向こうに、市役所となった三の丸が右側に、公園となっている伯耆丸が左側に見えます。

城周辺の地図

天守の内部
天守からの西方の眺め
市役所となっている三の丸
伯耆丸公園

北の方には、由良川と光秀が築いた川に沿った堤防が見えます。その堤防は「明智藪」と呼ばれていますが、この名前は、光秀が堤防を強固にするために竹を植えたことに由来します。

天守から北方の眺め
明智藪

唯一の現存建物

もう一つの城の見どころは、唯一の現存建物である銅門番所(あかがねもんばんしょ)で、現在は本丸の中にあります。この建物はもともと二の丸の中にあったのですが、二の丸が撤去されてしまったために現在地に移されました。参考に、銅門そのものは、市内の正眼寺(しょうげんじ)に移され山門として使われています。

城周辺の地図

本丸にある銅門番所
銅門があった場所
正眼寺山門、福知山市ホームページより引用

その後

明治維新後、福知山城は廃城となり、天守を含む城のほとんどの建物は撤去されるか移設されました。二の丸については、旧日本陸軍の第20歩兵連隊が駐屯地と演習場の移動の利便のために破壊したと言われています。一方、福知山の人たちは長い間、天守が復元されることを願っていました。その天守の復元は、江戸時代の城絵図が見つかったのをきっかけに1968年に検討が始まりました。一時、予算不足の問題に陥りますが、市民からの寄付もあり1986年に完成しました。最終的には費用の半分以上が寄付により賄われました。

撤去された二の丸は市街地となりました

私の感想

光秀が本能寺の変を起こした理由としてよく言われていたのは、信長と光秀との性格の違いでした。信長は革新的だったのに対して、光秀は伝統を重視していたというのです。しかし、福知山城の天守台石垣を見る限りの話ですが、光秀は信長の城郭建築の方針に従っていたように思えます。つまり、城の建設を急ぐためには仏教のために使われていたものでも何でも使うということです。正直に言わせていただくと。墓石を石垣のために使うということには少々違和感を感じます。当時の人たちにとっては、尚更だったのではないでしょうか。光秀は、忠実な信長への追随者だったと思います。最近提示された推論では、信長が四国征伐を行うにあたり、光秀の立場が危うくなっっていたということです。信長が光秀の意見(長宗我部氏を支持する)を退け、ライバルの秀吉の意見(三好氏を支持し、長宗我部氏を倒す)が採用されたのです。その四国征伐が行われる直前に、本能寺の変が起こったのです。光秀の決断の理由が明らかになるのではないかと期待します。

福知山城天守台石垣の新しい部分(左側)と古い部分(右側)の継ぎ目がわかる箇所
織田信長肖像画、狩野宗秀作、長興寺蔵、16世紀後半 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
豊臣秀吉肖像画、加納光信筆、高台寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

ここに行くには

車で行く場合:舞鶴若狭自動車道の福知山ICから約3kmのところです。城がある丘の脇に駐車場があります。
公共交通機関を使う場合は、JR福知山駅から歩いて約15分かかります。
東京から福知山駅まで:東海道新幹線に乗って、京都駅で山陰本線に乗り換えてください。

福知山城公園の駐車場

リンク、参考情報

福知山城 明智光秀が築いた城、福知山市
・「明智光秀・秀満:ときハ今あめが下しる五月哉/小和田哲男著」ミネルヴァ書房
・「明智光秀の城郭と合戦/高橋成計著」戒光祥出版
・「よみがえる日本の城19」学研

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「福知山城その1」に戻ります。
「福知山城その2」に戻ります。

158.Fukuchiyama Castle Part2

The southwestern side of the stone wall base of the Main Tower is covered with many diverted stones and some of them are used for its corners. Why did Mitsuhide use them for the important part of the tower?

Features

Main Enclosure as Fukuchiyama Castle Park

Today, the current Fukuchiyama Castle remains as a historical park. The original castle includes the Main, Second and Third Enclosures in a line on a hill. However, the park has only the Main enclosure at the edge of the hill because the Second Enclosure’s part was cut down and turned into residential areas. Therefore, the Fukuchiyama Castle park looks like a castle on a small mountain, which stands out in the city.

The map around the castle

The park has been well developed for visitors so that they can easily walk up on the paved slopes to the top of the hill. You will climb the slope along the remaining stone walls and the restored stone one’s of the Main Enclosure where you can see a diverted stone being used as fillings for the gaps on the wall.

Fukuchiyama Castle Park
The paved path on the slope
The diverted stone that fills the gap

You can access the Main Enclosure by entering the restored Tsurigane-mon or the Hanging Bell Gate after climbing the stone steps or by going on the slope. There is a large well called Toyoiwa-no-i, which is 50m deep and still has 37m deep water.

The slope on the left and the stone steps to the Hanging Bell Gate on the right
The restored Hanging Bell Gate
The Toyoiwa-no-i Well

Main Tower Base uses lots of Diverted Stones

The restored Main Tower is on the original stone wall base which has a complex shape in a plane view because the original tower was extended several times. The entrance of the tower is at the eastern side which has a newer part of the original base.

The aerial photo around the Main Enclosure, there are lots of deverted stones at the lower left of the red lines

The restored Main Tower of Fukuchiyama Castle
The entrance at the eastern side of the Main Tower

If you walk around the base to the southern side, you will find the base uses a lot of diverted stones. Diverted stones refer to the stones which had originally been processed and used for other purposes, such as tombstones, stone statues, and stone mills, but were collected and used for rapid castle constructions. Other examples of using them can be seen in castles like Yamato-Koriyama, Matsusaka and Himeji Castles.

The southern side a lot of diverted stones
A diverted stone used in Yamato-Koriyama Castle (little above the middle)
A diverted stone used in Matsusaka Castle

You may be surprised to see that the southwestern side of the stone wall base is covered with more diverted stones. The view of the restored Main Tower is good, but you should also check out how the stones are used. The stone wall base was mainly piled using natural stones in a method called Nozura-zumi. The diverted stones in other sides are used to fill gaps between these natural stones. However, the diverted stones at the southwestern side are used to form the corners of the base, the most important part of it. Basically, the corners of stone wall bases must support most of the weight of the tower, even in a case of emergency, such as an earthquake.

A view of the Main Tower of Fukuchiyama Castle from the southwest
So many diverted stones
The diverted stones used in a corner

What is Mitsuhide’s intention?

For example, in 2016 many earthquakes happened in Kumamoto, the Iidamaru-five-level Turret of Kumamoto Castle was once supported by only one corner stone even though other stones around had collapsed. Around the southern part of the Fukuchiyama Castle’s Main Tower was said to be the oldest, so Mitsuhide Akechi probably built it. Why did he use so many diverted stones and installed them into the important part of the tower?

Iidamaru-five-level-turret and the miracle lone stone walls in July,2016, quoted from the Sankei Photo

One possible reason is purely technical. The diverted stones in the corner are cuboid ones which look like tombs or carved Buddha status. Collecting them might have been useful for Mitsuhide to build the castle efficiently and rapidly. On the other hand, a local tradition says that Mitsuhide’s troops destroyed the temples which were against his orders and took the tomb stones away from them to build the castle. If it is true, using the stones might have meant the new lord showing the conquest and the authority to people. Other historian argued that it must have symbolized the contribution of people to the castle’s construction or taking Buddha’s power in the castle. Overall, only Mitsuhide can answer this question.

Why did Mitsuhide use these diverted stones for the important part of the tower?

So far, about 500 diverted stones were found in the stone walls of the castle or excavated in other places. The excavated ones lie down in vacant spaces in the Main Enclosure.

The diverted stones lying down in the Main Enclosure

To be continued in “Fukuchiyama Castle Part3”
Back to “Fukuchiyama Castle Part1”