Azuchi castle – ページ 2 – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

157.Hachimanyama Castle Part2

The castle ruins and modern tourist spot could be seen on the mountain.

Features

Going to Top by Cable Car

Today, visitors usually get to the ruins of Hachimanyama Castle by boarding the cable car from the foot of the mountain. The platform of the car at the foot is near the Himure Hachimangu Shrine which was moved there when the castle was built. The Hachimanbori Moats and the old town atmosphere also remain around as a popular tourist spot.

The map around the castle

The Worship Hall of the Himure Hachimangu Shrine *(licensed by 663highland via Wikimedia Commons)*

The Hachimanbori Moats and the old town atmosphere

The cable car will bring you to the platform on the mountain in few minutes. The platform is below the Second Enclosure where the observation platform faces the city area in the southeast. Many people enjoy a good view while you can also see some remaining old stone walls of the enclosure.

The observation platform at the Second Enclosure

The stone walls around the Second Enclosure

Zuiryuji Temple in Main Enclosure

The Main Enclosure, the center of the castle, is now used as the Zuiryuji Temple which Hidetsugu’s mother, Tomo established. In fact, the temple was moved there from Kyoto in 1961 of the present time, however, it is absolute suitable for this castle. The entrance of the temple consists of a defensive square space surrounded by stone walls, called Masugata. That’s because it was also the original entrance of the enclosure. The temple uses the Imperial chrysanthemum crest because Emperor Go-Yozei helped Tomo first build it and some members of the Imperial family became its chief priest.

The aerial photo around the castle

The Zuiryuji Temple at the Main Enclosure

The doors use the Imperial chrysanthemum crests

The defensive square space inside the doors

View Spots in Northern and Western Enclosures

You can go to other enclosures by passing the Belt Enclosure as the route around the Main Enclosure. The high stone walls surrounding the Main Enclosure look old, wild but so great like those of Azuchi Castle. Historians are still not sure if these stone walls were completed by Hidetsugu or the Kyogoku Clan following him. A corner of them becomes round vertically, and it is not uncertain if the condition is original or it was from deterioration.

The stone walls around the Main Enclosure

The vertically round corner of stone walls

If you go to the Northern Enclosure which is another good viewing spot, you can see a view of the mountains with the ruins of Azuchi and Kannnonji Castles in the north.

The ruins of Azuchi and Kannonji Castles

You can also go to the Western Enclosure with a view of Lake Biwa in the west.

My recommended Barbican Enclosure

I recommend you go to the Barbikan Enclosure or Demaru because it was recently re-developed. The trees and bushes around the enclosure were cut down for a better view. You can get there by going down along the trail from the Western Enclosure. You will see a panorama view of the city area and you can imagine this enclosure should have been a good lookout.

You can see the Barbican Enclosure from the city area (inside the red mark)

You can also walk around the stone walls of the enclosure close by, which is about 4m high. However, please watch your step as its foundation is on the steep and rough slope.

The stone walls of the Barbican Enclosure and a view form it

The corner of the stone walls (its round shape is rare)

The stone walls are illuminated at night

To be continued in “Hachimanyama Castle Part3”
Back to “Hachimanyama Castle Part1”

157.Hachimanyama Castle Part1

The castle of Hidetsugu Toyotomi, the tragic Kanpaku

Location and History

Twisted Life by his uncle, Ruler Hideyoshi

Hachimanyama Castle was located beside Lake Biwa in Omi Province which is now Shiga Prefecture. The castle was built by Hidetsugu Toyotomi, the tragic Kanpaku ( the chief adviser to the Emperor). He was a nephew of Hideyoshi Toyotomi who was the ruler of Japan in the late 15th Century. His mother was Hideyoshi’s older sister called Tomo. He was twisted around Hideyoshi’s little finger throughout his life, but left this castle and its castle town which is now Omi-Hachiman City.

The location of the castle

Hidetsugu was born in 1568 during the Sengoku Period when his uncle, Hideyoshi worked under a great warlord, Nobunaga Oda. In 1572 when he was 4 years old, he was adopted by Hideyoshi to the Miyabe Clan in Omi Province, which Hideyoshi wanted to gain over to Nobunaga’s side. It was common for warriors at that time to ally with others, but in the case of Hideyoshi, he had to send his nephew because he had no children. After that, Hidetsugu was adopted again to the Miyoshi Clan in Shikoku Island where Nobunaga and Hideyoshi aimed to invade. However, the situation changed after Nobunaga died in the Honnoji Incident in 1582. Hideyoshi intended to be the ruler, so he wanted Hidetsugu to be one of his commanding officer. Hidetsugu fought hard for his uncle in many battles although he failed in one of them called the Battle of Nagakute in 1584. In 1585 when Hideyoshi was appointed Kanpaku as the ruler, Hidetsuku was given a large territory in Omi Province. Hidetsugu built a new castle as his home base with instructions from Hideyoshi, called Hachimanyama Castle.

The portrait of Hidetsugu Toyotomi, owned by Zuisenji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

He develops new Castle, Castle Town, and Waterways

The mountain, which the castle was built, had originally been often called Hachimanyama or Hachiman Mountain, because the Himure-Hachimangu Shrine had been on the top of the mountain. The first thing to do for building the castle was to move the shrine to the foot. The mountain was 294m high and 180m above from the foot. Its slopes were very steep, which was good for protecting the castle. The Main Enclosure was built on the top where it is said the Main Tower and Main Hall were built. The Second, the Northern and the Western Enclosures were also built on the ridges spread from the top. These enclosures were all surrounded by stone walls. The Barbican Enclosure was also built below the Western Enclosure. In addition, the luxury residence for Hidetsugu was built at the foot because the top was not convenient for living. The long and straight Main Route like Azuchi Castle was also built in front of it.

The imaginary drawing of Hachimanyama Castle, from the signboard at the site, adding the red letters in English

Hidetsugu also developed the castle town beside the mountain by moving the merchants in the castle town of the abandoned Azuchi Castle to the new developed area. The city area was built in a grid pattern like modern cities to improve business and living. Hidetsugu built the Hachiman-bori Moat, connected to Lake Biwa, between the castle and town. The moat was basically for defense, but it was also used for water transportation to boost commerce. The town has been prospering even after the castle was abandoned.

The illustration of Hachimanyama Castle and Town, exhibited by Omi Hachiman City Archives Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Short Glory before his Harakiri Incident

Hidetsugu moved to a much larger territory and finally became Kanpaku as the successor of Hideyoshi in 1590 . This was because Hideyoshi’s real or adopted male children all died young. Hidetsugu communicated well with many nobles and lords to be the next ruler after Hideyoshi. However, the situation changed again when Hideyoshi had his last son, Hideyori in 1583. In 1585, Hidetsugu was suddenly summoned by Hideyoshi’s officers due to the suspicion of his rebellion against Hideyoshi. He was sent to Mt. Koyasan, without any meeting with Hideyoshi, and He was forced to commit Harakiri. (ritual suicide by disembowelment with a sword.). Hideyoshi also ordered to execute almost all of Hidetsugu’s wives and children as offenders. Many relative nobles and lords were also punished. Hidetsugu’s mother, Tomo who was Hideyoshi’s sister felt deep sorrow, then established the Zuiryuji Temple alone in Kyoto to pray for Hidetsugu and his family.

The picture of Hidetsugu Toyotomi at Mt. Koyasan, attributed to Yoshitoshi Tsukioka (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The present Zuiryuji Temple at Hachimanyama Castle Ruins

However, no evidence for Hidetsugu’s rebellion was found. Some people said the incident happened for that he was called the Killer Kanpaku, which meant he liked killing, but it was also quite uncertain. After all, it seemed that Hidetaugu was a victim of Hideyoshi who finally became a crazy dictator and initiated a conflict between officers and lords. Hideyoshi even ordered to destroy Hachimanyama Castle followed by the Kyogoku Clan after Hidetsugu. The clan had to move to another castle, called Otsu Castle. There is an interesting story about Hikone Castle, whose Main Tower was moved from Otsu Castle. Toyotomi-style roof tiles covered with golden leaf were found at Hikone Castle which the Tokugawa Shogunate built. Some people think it was impossible as because they were against each other. Some historians speculate that the Main Tower or other buildings Hidetsugu built might have been moved or used to build Otsu Castle by Kyogoku Clan and finally brought to Hikone Castle.

The Main Tower of Hikone Castle, which was originally moved from Otsu Castle

To be continued in “Hachimanyama Castle Part2”

139.Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle Part1

An impregnable castle on the border of Wakasa Province

Location and History

Katsuhisa Awaya reclaims Castle

What is now Fukui Prefecture was divided into Echizen Province in the Northeast and Wakasa Province in the Southwest. In the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period, the Asakura Clan governed Echizen while the Takeda Clan owned Wakasa. Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle was in Wakasa Province near the border between both provinces. Sagaki comes from the name of the area around the castle and Kuniyoshi originates from the name of the person who first built the castle sometime before the Sengoku Period. People at that time usually called it “Sagaki Castle” and the other name “Kuniyoshi Castle” became popular later. As a result, historians and history buffs often call it Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle, using both names.

The location of the castle

Comparing the Asakura and Takeda Clans, Asakura were much stronger than Takeda. Asakura tried to extend their power to Wakasa Province, in response, Takeda wanted to rely on Asakura. However, Takeda’s retainers, such as one of the senior vassals, Katsuhisa Awaya, rebelled against them. Katsuhisa reclaimed an abandoned castle to prevent the Asakura Clan from invading Wakasa Province, called Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle. The castle was built on a steep mountain with a height at 197m near the border of Echizen Provence. People who went in or out of Wakasa Province had to pass a ridge beside the mountain, so the castle was the pivot of defense for the province. The lord of the castle usually lived in the Main Hall on the valley below the mountain, but used the mountain part when a battle broke out.

Asakura Clan′s troops are repelled 5 times

The relief map around the castle

The Asakura Clan attacked Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle 5 times between 1563 and 1567 to crush the rebellion. However, all the attacks failed because the rebel army and the castle were so strong. The battles between them occurred as follows. The warriors, their families, and other people around the castle gathered on the mountain carrying ammunition, stones, and wood. Meanwhile, some defenders hid in ambush beside the route to the castle. When the attackers got close to the castle on the route, the defenders made a surprise attack on them. After that, when the attackers climbed up to the mid slope on the mountain, the defenders shot guns and arrows, and threw the stones and wood all together. Many of the attackers were hit and fell into the valley, forcing the rest to withdraw. In addition, when the attackers looted property and crops away from the town and fields near the castle, the defenders made a night attack on Asakura’s positions. As a result, the castle was considered to be impregnable.

The imaginary drawing of Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle, exhibited by the Wakasa Kuniyoshi Castle Historical Museum

Castle is involved with Battle over Country

A fortunate opportunity for Katsuhisa came in 1570 when the great warlord, Nobunaga Oda attacked the Asakura Clan. Nobunaga visited Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle during his invasion of Echizen and praised Katsuhisa’s military achievement. The battle between Oda and the Asakura lasted until 1573 when the Asakura Clan was defeated. Nobunaga gave Wakasa Province to one of his senior vassals, Nagahide Niwa whom Katsuhisa served. Times rapidly changed after Nobunaga was killed in the Honnoji Incident in 1582. Nobunaga’s former retainers, Hideyoshi Hashiba and Katsuie Shibata were against each other for the initiative. Katsuie was in Echizen Province while Nagahide supported Hideyoshi. That meant Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle became a castle at the tense border between two provinces again.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The portrait of Nagahide Niwa, owned by Historiographical Institute the University of Tokyo *(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)*

Katsuhisa’s boss, Nagahide was responsible for constructing Azuchi Castle, famously built by Nobunaga Oda. That meant Nagahide had advanced techniques for improving castles. Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle had basically been made of soil, but was fortified using stone walls. In the end, the battle between Hideyoshi and Katsuie happened in another place before Hideyoshi won. During the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi followed by the Tokugawa Shogunate, the castle changed hands several times. The castle still continued to be improved using stone walls, but the mountain part was eventually abandoned. Instead, only the Main Hall part in the valley was used because it was convenient for the government. In 1634 when the Sakai Clan, the lords of the Obama Domain including Wakasa Province, built the Sagaki magistrate’s office, the castle was entirely abandoned.

The imaginary drawing of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Gifu Castle Museum

The ruins of the Sagaki magistrate’s office

To be continued in “Sagaki-Kuniyoshi Castle Part2”