66.Tsuwano Castle Part3

Tsuwano Town is making great efforts to maintain the ruins.

Features

Sanjukken-dai and Main Tower Bases

The next is the highest point of the castle, called Sanjukken-dai or the about 54m long base. It was surrounded by mud walls in the Edo Period, and it is a square now which is definitely a great view spot. Please enjoy a view of Tsuwano Town with reddish brown colored roofs.

The map around the castle

Sanjukken-dai or the about 54m long base
A view from the Sanjukken-dai base
The view of Tsuwano Town with reddish brown colored roofs
A view of the Hostage Turret Ruins from the Sanjukken-dai base
A steep slope beside the Sanjukken-dai base where many of its stone walls have collapsed

The next is the stone wall base for the Main Tower just blow the Sanjukken-dai Base. It was rare that the Main Tower was not at the highest point among Japanese castles.

The Main Tower base blow the Sanjukken-dai Base
The top of the Main Tower base

Attractions of former Castle Town

If you have time, you should check out many historical items in the former castle town such as the restored domain school, some remaining gate buildings of senior vassals, the old houses of Amane Nishi and Ogai Mori, and the carps in the waterways which Naomori started to breed.

The restored domain school called Yorokan
The interior of the school
The front gate of the residence of the Tako Clan, a senior vassal of the Tsuwano Domain
The old house of Amane Nishi
Carps in the waterways

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Tsuwano Castle was abandoned and most of the castle buildings were demolished. One of them, a gate at the foot was used as the front gate of Hamada Prefectural Government and finally moved to the ruins of Hamada Castle. The Tsuwano Domain was just merged to the prefecture at that time. The gate is still remaining at the site. Tsuwano Castle Ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1942. Tsuwano Town has been researching and repairing them one by one to maintain them.

The gate of the Tsuwano Castle at Hamada Castle Ruins

My Impression

I can’t imagine how tough the castle construction including the stone walls on such a steep mountain was in a short period of Naomori Sakazaki at only 16 years. I hope Tusuwano Town will somehow maintain and develop the castle ruins, which should be hard work. I would like to visit the ruins again by climbing the trail from the foot next time, where the older castle ruins the Yosimi Clan first built can be seen.

The stone walls of the Southern Turret Gate Ruins on the mountain

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about 40 minutes away from Muikaichi IC on the Chugoku Expressway. There is a parking lot in front of the lift platform at the foot of the mountain.
By public transportation, It takes about 20 minutes on foot from Tsuwano Station. Or you can take the Iwami-Kotsu Bus or Tsuwano Town Bus from the station and get off at the Mori bus stop to get the lift.
To get to Tsuwano Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Sanyo Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Yamaguchi Line at Shin-Yamaguchi Station.

Tsuwano Station

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Tsuwano Castle Part1”
Back to “Tsuwano Castle Part2”

157.Hachimanyama Castle Part1

The castle of Hidetsugu Toyotomi, the tragic Kanpaku

Location and History

Twisted Life by his uncle, Ruler Hideyoshi

Hachimanyama Castle was located beside Lake Biwa in Omi Province which is now Shiga Prefecture. The castle was built by Hidetsugu Toyotomi, the tragic Kanpaku ( the chief adviser to the Emperor). He was a nephew of Hideyoshi Toyotomi who was the ruler of Japan in the late 15th Century. His mother was Hideyoshi’s older sister called Tomo. He was twisted around Hideyoshi’s little finger throughout his life, but left this castle and its castle town which is now Omi-Hachiman City.

The location of the castle

Hidetsugu was born in 1568 during the Sengoku Period when his uncle, Hideyoshi worked under a great warlord, Nobunaga Oda. In 1572 when he was 4 years old, he was adopted by Hideyoshi to the Miyabe Clan in Omi Province, which Hideyoshi wanted to gain over to Nobunaga’s side. It was common for warriors at that time to ally with others, but in the case of Hideyoshi, he had to send his nephew because he had no children. After that, Hidetsugu was adopted again to the Miyoshi Clan in Shikoku Island where Nobunaga and Hideyoshi aimed to invade. However, the situation changed after Nobunaga died in the Honnoji Incident in 1582. Hideyoshi intended to be the ruler, so he wanted Hidetsugu to be one of his commanding officer. Hidetsugu fought hard for his uncle in many battles although he failed in one of them called the Battle of Nagakute in 1584. In 1585 when Hideyoshi was appointed Kanpaku as the ruler, Hidetsuku was given a large territory in Omi Province. Hidetsugu built a new castle as his home base with instructions from Hideyoshi, called Hachimanyama Castle.

The portrait of Hidetsugu Toyotomi, owned by Zuisenji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

He develops new Castle, Castle Town, and Waterways

The mountain, which the castle was built, had originally been often called Hachimanyama or Hachiman Mountain, because the Himure-Hachimangu Shrine had been on the top of the mountain. The first thing to do for building the castle was to move the shrine to the foot. The mountain was 294m high and 180m above from the foot. Its slopes were very steep, which was good for protecting the castle. The Main Enclosure was built on the top where it is said the Main Tower and Main Hall were built. The Second, the Northern and the Western Enclosures were also built on the ridges spread from the top. These enclosures were all surrounded by stone walls. The Barbican Enclosure was also built below the Western Enclosure. In addition, the luxury residence for Hidetsugu was built at the foot because the top was not convenient for living. The long and straight Main Route like Azuchi Castle was also built in front of it.

The imaginary drawing of Hachimanyama Castle, from the signboard at the site, adding the red letters in English
The Main Route of Azuchi Castle

Hidetsugu also developed the castle town beside the mountain by moving the merchants in the castle town of the abandoned Azuchi Castle to the new developed area. The city area was built in a grid pattern like modern cities to improve business and living. Hidetsugu built the Hachiman-bori Moat, connected to Lake Biwa, between the castle and town. The moat was basically for defense, but it was also used for water transportation to boost commerce. The town has been prospering even after the castle was abandoned.

The illustration of Hachimanyama Castle and Town, exhibited by Omi Hachiman City Archives Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The present Hachiman-bori Moat

Short Glory before his Harakiri Incident

Hidetsugu moved to a much larger territory and finally became Kanpaku as the successor of Hideyoshi in 1590 . This was because Hideyoshi’s real or adopted male children all died young. Hidetsugu communicated well with many nobles and lords to be the next ruler after Hideyoshi. However, the situation changed again when Hideyoshi had his last son, Hideyori in 1583. In 1585, Hidetsugu was suddenly summoned by Hideyoshi’s officers due to the suspicion of his rebellion against Hideyoshi. He was sent to Mt. Koyasan, without any meeting with Hideyoshi, and He was forced to commit Harakiri. (ritual suicide by disembowelment with a sword.). Hideyoshi also ordered to execute almost all of Hidetsugu’s wives and children as offenders. Many relative nobles and lords were also punished. Hidetsugu’s mother, Tomo who was Hideyoshi’s sister felt deep sorrow, then established the Zuiryuji Temple alone in Kyoto to pray for Hidetsugu and his family.

The picture of Hidetsugu Toyotomi at Mt. Koyasan, attributed to Yoshitoshi Tsukioka (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The present Zuiryuji Temple at Hachimanyama Castle Ruins

However, no evidence for Hidetsugu’s rebellion was found. Some people said the incident happened for that he was called the Killer Kanpaku, which meant he liked killing, but it was also quite uncertain. After all, it seemed that Hidetaugu was a victim of Hideyoshi who finally became a crazy dictator and initiated a conflict between officers and lords. Hideyoshi even ordered to destroy Hachimanyama Castle followed by the Kyogoku Clan after Hidetsugu. The clan had to move to another castle, called Otsu Castle. There is an interesting story about Hikone Castle, whose Main Tower was moved from Otsu Castle. Toyotomi-style roof tiles covered with golden leaf were found at Hikone Castle which the Tokugawa Shogunate built. Some people think it was impossible as because they were against each other. Some historians speculate that the Main Tower or other buildings Hidetsugu built might have been moved or used to build Otsu Castle by Kyogoku Clan and finally brought to Hikone Castle.

The Main Tower of Hikone Castle, which was originally moved from Otsu Castle

To be continued in “Hachimanyama Castle Part2”

144.Ogaki Castle Part3

Let us feel a water of city and an atmosphere of the castle town.

Features

Walking along Former Outer Moat

The map around the castle

If you want to know what a Water Castle is like, consider walking around Suimon-gawa River, the former Outer Moat. The river still surrounds the northern and western sides of the castle. If you walk from the north to the west along the flow of the river, you can understand how large the castle was in the past. You can also see the ruins of the Tatsunokuchi-mon Gate on the northern side and the ruins of the Takebashiguchi-mon Gate on the western side.

Suimon-gawa River
The ruins of the Tatsunokuchi-mon Gate
The illustration of the Tatsunokuchi-mon Gate in the past, from the signboard at the site
The ruins of the Takebashiguchi-mon Gate

In addition, there are the Spring of Ogaki at the northwest corner and the Suito Park at the southwest corner where you can see Ogaki is still a city of water.

The Spring of Ogaki
The Suito Park

Walking along Old Mino Road

If you arrive at the Suito Park, you can walk along the old Mino Road as the road still goes on the southern and eastern sides of the castle through the former castle town. The pavement of the road is painted in a different color (beige) from other roads, so you can easily follow it.

The old Mino Road
The road is painted in a different color from other roads

You will see some traditional items such as an old sweet beans jelly shop, the ruins of Honjin (officially appointed inn) of Ogaki-juku Station on Mino Road and the ruins of Toiyaba (administration office). You can still feel what the castle town was like there.

The elegant roof of the sweet beans jelly shop
The ruins of Honjin (officially appointed inn) of Ogaki-juku Station
The ruins of Toiyaba (administration office)
An old rice dracker shop

My Impression

Before the Battle of Sekigahara, there might have been a chance for Mitsunari to defeat Ieyasu. If Mitsunari stayed in Ogaki Castle for longer time, the number of his supporters, including his master Hideyori, could increase. However, I think Ieyasu was much superior to Mitsunari as a general. Ieyasu trapped Mitsunari by wining Mitsunari’s allies like Hideaki Kobayakawa over to Ieyasu’s side. Ieyasu made Mitsunari leave Ogaki Castle by choice. I think Ieyasu learned a lot from his lost in the Battle of Mikatagahara in 1573 when he was young. He was trapped by Shingen Takeda to leave his Hamamatsu Castle by himself and defeated. As a result, he did a similar way in Sekigahara to what he had been done in Mikatagahara.

The statue of Ieyasu Tokugawa at Hamamatsu Castle
The present Hamamatsu Castle
The monument of the Battle of Mikatagahara

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about 15 minutes away from Ogaki IC on the Meishin Expressway. There are several parking lots around the park.
By public transportation, it takes about 10 minutes on foot from the JR Ogaki Station.
To get to Ogaki Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Tokaido Line at Nagoya Station.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Ogaki Castle Part1”
Back to “Ogaki Castle Part2”