191.Nakatsu Castle Part1

Yoshitaka Kuroda, who built Nakatsu Castle, is known to many Japanese people as the military strategist of Hideyoshi Toyotomi. However, he was actually a working general and a secretary under Hideyoshi.

Location and History

Yoshitaka works hard for Unification of Japan with Hideyoshi Toyotomi

Nakatsu Castle was located in Buzen Province which is equivalent to the eastern part of Fukuoka Prefecture and the northwestern part of Oita Prefecture. The province was also the northernmost part of Kyushu Island which was connected with the Main Island of Japan through Kanmon Straits. The castle was built on a delta in the estuary of Nakatsu River flowing into Buzen Sea, in the central part of the province, by Yoshitaka Kuroda (he is more often known as Kanbe Kuroda or Josui Kuroda after he retired). He is known to many Japanese people as Gunshi or the military strategist of Hideyoshi Toyotomi who was the ruler of Japan in the end of the 16th Century. However, the degree was given by later people like historians, critics, and novelists, he was actually a working general and a secretary under Hideyoshi.

The range of Buzen Province and the location of the castle

The portrait of Yoshitaka Kuroda, owned by Sofukuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Yoshitaka was originally a senior vassal of a local lord, the Kodera Clan in Harima Province (now the southern part of Hyogo Province). When Hideyoshi invaded the Chugoku Region, which included the province, as a general under Nobunaga Oda, Yoshitaka supported Hideyoshi by providing his own Himeji Castle to Hideyoshi. After that, he did his best to help complete the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi. A famous story about him in the early stage is that he was confined for about one and a half years in Arioka Castle when he visited to persuade Murashige Araki who had decided to be against Nobunaga. While Hideyoshi had become the ruler after Nobunaga was killed by Mitsuhide Akechi, Yoshitaka worked at Hideyoshi’s beck and call. For example, he negotiated with the Mori Clan in the Chugoku Region to divide territories into each other without battles. When the invasion of Kyushu happened in 1587, Yoshitaka set the stage for Hideyoshi’s arrival by fighting against local lords or making them surrender.

The remaining stone walls of Himeji Castle Yoshitaka built
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Yoshitaka builds Castle in his territory in Bungo Province

After the invasion, Yoshitaka was given part of Buzen Province by Hideyoshi. His territory was small for his contribution so far, because, it has been said it was because Hideyoshi feared Yoshitaka’s potential power. However, some suggest that it could have been because Yoshitaka was a Christian which Hideyoshi had banned from spreading just after the invasion. Yoshitaka at first lived in Umagadake Castle, one of mountain castles which were common then, but launched the construction of Nakatsu Castle in 1588, which would be considered one of the Three Great Sea Castles in Japan, together with Imabari and Takamatsu Castles. Its location was decided by Yoshitaka for the convenience of the government and transportation, but probably also instructed by Hideyoshi. Hideyoshi’s other retainers also built sea castles in their new territories in the Kyushu Region during the same period, such as Kokura, Oita-Funai, and Yatsushiro Castles, which were used for the preparation for the invasion of Korea planned by Hideyoshi as well.

The remaining stone walls of Nakatsu Castle the Kuroda Clan built
Imabari Castle
Takamatsu Castle
The ruins of Yatsushiro Castle

Nakatsu Castle was also one of the earliest modernized castles with turrets and stone walls in the region. The Main Enclosure was in the center but along the estuary and had a gate directly to it, which is a rare case in Japanese castles. The Second Enclosure was in the front of the sea and the Third Enclosure was in the back. All of them were on the delta which looked like a folding fan. The number of the turrets was 22 at its peak, but the Main Tower was not built for some reason.

The old map of Nakatsu Castle, from the signboard at the site, there are the Second, Main, and Third Enclosures from above to the bottom

Did Yoshitaka want to be Ruler?

The highlight of Yoshitaka’s life came when the decisive battle happened in 1600 between the East Quad led by Ieyasu Tokugawa and the West Quad by Mitsunari Ishida after Hideyoshi died. Yoshitaka joined the East Squad with his son Nagamasa, who fought with Ieyasu against Mitsunari in the Battle of Sekigawara in central Japan. Yoshitaka himself stayed at Nakatsu Castle, and after he left, he captured castles in Kyushu, which other lords in the West Squad owned, one by one. The Battle of Sekigahara, where Ieyasu defeated Mitsunari, ended in only one day on the 15th of September. However, Yoshitaka continued to invade the region for about two more months until Ieyasu stopped him. Yoshitaka had already captured all the Kyushu Region with his allies except for the territory of the Shimazu Clan in southern Kyushu. This made people later speculate that Yoshitaka would have liked to be the ruler, but only he knew the answer. The Kuroda Clan was promoted to be the lord of much larger territory of Fukuoka Domain including Fukuoka Castle before Yoshitaka died in 1604.

The statues of Yoshitaka and his wife at the current Nakatsu Castle
The Portrait of Nagamasa Kuroda, the first lord of Fukuoka Domain, owned by Fukuoka City Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Fukuoka Castle

Castle is followed by Nakatsu Domain which promotes learning Western sciences

Nakatsu Castle was followed by the Hosokawa Clan as their branch castle. The castle survived even after the Law of One Castle per Province, issued by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1615. It is said this was because Sansai Hosokawa, the father of the lord used it as his retreat. The castle was finally governed by the Okudaira Clan as the Nakatsu Domain until the end of the Edo Period. A remarkable event during the period was that the lords promoted learning about the Western sciences through Dutch language, called Rangaku. Japanese people were usually not allowed to learn them because trading the Western items and communicating with the Western people were strictly limited. Only the trading with Dutch at the Dejima trading house in Nagasaki and visiting Edo by the head of the house every four year were allowed. However, the third lord, Masashika Okudaira started to promote it after seeing his mother’s broken bones were mended by Western medicine. Ryotaku Maeno, who first translated a book of Western medicine with his colleagues such as Genpaku Sugita, was the domain’s doctor. Yukichi Fukuzawa, who was a great philosopher and educator in the Meiji Era, came from lower class samurais of the domain but started in life by learning Rangaku.

The portrait of Sansai Hosokawa, owned by Eisei Bunko Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Masashika Okudaira, owned by Jishoji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Ryotaku Maeno, from the book “Ika-Sentetsu Partraits” in 1936 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Yukichi Fukuzawa, around 1891 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Nakatsu Castle Part2”

137.Fukui Castle Part3

The castle ruins are still the center of Fukui Prefecture.

Features

Ruins of First Kitanosho Castle

I also recommend visiting the ruins of the first Kitanosho Castle which Katsuie Shibata built, about 300m away from Fukui Castle Ruins to the south. You can only see the base stones for the castle because Fukui Castle was built on the Kitanosho Castle Ruins.

The ruins of Kitanosho Castle in Echizen Province
These are the stone walls of Fukui Castle
The base stones of the first Kitanosho Castle

However, you can also see the statues of Katuie, his wife and his three daughters. These women are well-known in Japanese history. One of the daughters was the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi’s wife. Another was the wife of Hidetada Tokugawa who was a little brother of Hideyasu Yuki, the founder of Fukui Castle.

The statue of Katsuie Shibata
The statue of Katsuie’s wife
The statues of the three sisters

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Fukui Castle was abandoned. All the buildings of the castle were demolished and all its area except for the center of the castle was turned into the city area. In 1873, the former lord of the castle, the Matsudaira Clan opened Matsudaira Agricultural Experimental Station in the center of the castle until it was moved to another in 1921. Instead, The Fukui Prefectural Office was moved to the Main Enclosure in 1923. Since then, the castle ruins have been the center of the local government like the castle used to be.

Matsudaira Agricultural Experimental Station (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The buildings of the Fukui Prefectural Office (on the right) and Fukui prefectural police headquarters (on the left) at the Main Enclosure

My Impression

A Main Enclosure was usually the center of a castle. It often had the Main Tower and (or) the Main Hall to govern the area around in the Edo Period, like Fukui Castle. Many remaining Main Enclosures have now become historical parks, shrines, or facilities like a museum. However, the Main Enclosure of Fukui Castle is still used by the local government. I think this is the only example of the Main Enclosure being used for a prefectural office. Some people call it the strongest prefectural office in Japan.

The Main Enclosure of Fukuoka Castle (an example of being a historical park)
The Main Enclosure of Takaoka Castle (an example of being a shrine)
The Main Tower of the Main Enclosure of Osaka Castle (an example of being a museum)
The Fukui Prefectural Office which looks like the strongest

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car:
It is about 15 minutes away from Fukui IC on Hokuriku Expressway.
There are several parking lots around the ruins.
You can also use the underground parking lot of the prefectural office on weekdays.
(You need to have the parking ticket stamped at the reception counter.)
By public transportation, it takes less than 10 minutes walking from JR Fukui Station.
To get to Fukui Station from Tokyo: Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen super express, transfer to the limited express on the Hokuriku Line at Kanazawa Station.
From Osaka: Take the Thunderbird limited express.

Fukui Station

Links and References

Fukui Castle Ruins, Fukui Prefecture & Fukui Prefectural Tourism Federation

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Fukui Castle Part1”
Back to “Fukui Castle Part2”

85.福岡城~Fukuoka Castle

この城に天守はあったのでしょうか?
Did the castle have a Main Tower or not ?

立地と歴史~Location and History

古代から重要な地~Important place from Ancient times

城の位置と筑前国の範囲~The location of the castle and the range of Chikuzen Province

福岡城は元々、現在の福岡市にあたる、赤坂山とその脇にあった草ヶ江入り江周辺の地域にありました。古代には、ここには鴻臚館という中国や朝鮮からの人々をもてなす迎賓館がありました。中世の鎌倉時代に、武士たちが元の襲来を撃退したとき、ここで戦いがありました。1600年黒田氏は、筑前国福岡藩52万3千石の石高を、徳川幕府により与えられました。彼らは当時福崎と呼ばれていたこの場所に新しい城を作ることにしました。
Fukuoka Castle was originally an area around a mountain called Akasaka-yama and an arm of the sea called Kusagae beside the mountain, in what is now Fukuoka City. In ancient times, there was a guest house called Kouro-kan to used to host people from China and Korea. In the Kamakura Era of the Middle Ages, when the warriors repelled the Mongol Invasion, they battled the enemy there. In 1600, the Kuroda clan was granted the Fukuoka Domain of Chikuzen Province with an earning of 523,000 koku in rice by the Tokugawa Shogunate. They decided to build a new castle in this area called Fukuzaki then.

鴻臚館の遺跡~Thr ruins of Kouro-kan
赤坂の戦い、「蒙古襲来絵詞」より~Battle of Akasaka from “The picture scrolls of the Mongol invasion attempts against Japan”(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
福岡藩初代藩主、黒田長政肖像画、福岡市博物館蔵~The Portrait of Nagamasa Kuroda, the first lord of Fukuoka Domain, owned by Fukuoka City Museum(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

山と入り江を大改造~They reformed Mountain and Arm of Sea

彼らは山の形を整え、谷を埋め、本丸、二の丸、三の丸といった曲輪を南から北に向かって配置しました。また、山の部分を囲む内堀を、西側は草ヶ江入り江を利用することで、他の方角は掘削することで作り出し、城の東側にある那珂川と接続させました。
They reshaped the mountain and filled valleys, and set the Main Enclosure or “Honnmaru”, the Second Enclosure or “Ninomaru”, and the Third Enclosure or “Sannomaru” from south to north. They also created the inner water moat surrounding the mountain part by using the Kusagae arm of the sea as the western part, digging other direction parts, and connecting to the Naka River, the east of the castle.

福岡城下絵図~Part of an illustration of Fukuoka Castle(現地説明板より、from a sign board at the site)

結果的にこの地域は、広大な要塞となりました。これが福岡城です。城の正面は北の方角の海に向いており、「下ノ橋大手門」「上ノ橋大手門」「赤坂門」という3つの大きな門がありました。本丸がある城の後方には「追廻橋」という裏門が1つあるだけでした。本丸だけでも20もの櫓が高く屈曲した石垣にそびえていました。
As a result, the area became a huge scale fortress called Fukuoka Castle. The front of the castle faced the sea in the north with three large gates called “Shimonohashi-Ote-mon”, “Kaminohashi-Ote-mon”, and “Akasaka-mon”. The back of the castle, where Honmaru was located, had only one back gate called “Oimawashi-bashi” bridge. Honmaru itself had as many as twenty turrets on high and curved stone walls.

福岡城の模型~A miniature model of Fukuoka Castle(福岡城むかし探訪館~Fukuoka Castle Ruins Visitor Center)

天守の謎~Mystery of Main Tower

この城に関して興味深いことは、天守があったかどうかです。石垣の天守台は確かにありました。しかし、遺物、文献、図面といった天守の証拠となるものは見つかっていません。ところが、歴史家の中には、天守はあったはずと言う人もいます。江戸時代初期のある大名の手紙に、黒田候は幕府がどう思うか心配なので、天守を壊すことにしたと書いてあるのです。実に興味をそそる記述です。
An interesting question regarding the castle is if it had a Main Tower (“Tenshu”) or not. It had the stone wall base for Tenshu, but there are no evidence of Tenshu such as relics, documents, and drawings. However, some historians say that the castle must have had Tenshu, as a letter in the early Edo Period written by another lord says Kuroda would destroy their Tenshu because they were afraid of what Tokugawa Shogunate might think. It’s very intriguing.

上記の模型の天守部分は無色になっています~The part of the Main Tower is made uncolored in the model

特徴~Features

城周辺の航空写真~The aerial photo of around the castle

二つの公園~Two Parks

現在、福岡城跡は2つの公園に別れています。1つは舞鶴公園で、城の主要部分に当たります。もう1つは大濠公園で、もともとは草ヶ江入り江だったものが、大濠と呼ばれた城の内堀となった所です。ただ、大きな池のようにも見えます。それは、大昔は海の一部だったからなのです。
Now, the ruins of Fukuoka Castle are divided into two parks. One of them is Maiduru Park which was the primary part of the castle. The other one is Ohori Park which was originally Kusagae arm of the sea, then became an inner moat of the castle, called Large Moat or “Ohori”. Ohori Park still has the large moat, but it looks like a large pond. You can see that`s because it was part of the sea a long time ago.

大濠公園~Ohori Park

舞鶴公園は、更に広々としています。多くの遺跡が散らばっています。城の北部にあった三の丸の3つの門のうち、下ノ橋大手門だけが現存しています。2階建ての櫓門であり、ほぼ元あった通りの姿となっています。この門は明治時代に一旦単層に改造されました。2000年に一部が火災に遭った後、現在あるように復元されました。
Maiduru Park is even more spacey, so a lot of ruins are disseminated. Only the Shimonohashi-Ote-mon Gate remains out of the three front gates at Sannomaru, the north part of the castle. It is a two-story turret gate which looks nearly like the original one. It was once modified to a one-story gate in the Meiji Era. After the gate partly burned in 2000, it was restored as it is today.

下ノ橋大手門(遠景)~Shimonohashi-Ote-mon Gate, A distant view
下ノ橋大手門(近景)~Shimonohashi-Ote-mon Gate, A close-range view

三の丸地区~Area of Third Enclosure

上ノ橋大手門跡の方から公園に入ると、大きな空き地があります。江戸時代、ここには三の丸の多くの居住や統治のための屋敷がありました。その後は、平和台球場のような近代施設が建設されました。1999年に球場が撤去された後発掘が行われ、城があった遥か前には迎賓館である鴻臚館があったことがわかりました。鴻臚館跡展示館では、発見された遺物が展示されています。また、福岡城むかし探訪館では福岡城の歴史を学ぶことができます。
If you enter in the park through the ruins of Kaminohashi-Ote-mon Gate, you can see a large vacant area. There were many halls for living and governance at Sannomau in the Edo Period. After that, modern facilities were built there, such as the Heiwadai Stadium. After the stadium was demolished in 1999, the Excavation team found out that there was an ancient guest house called Kouro-kan long before the castle. You can see the findings of the excavation in Kourokan Ruins Exhibition Hall, as well as the history of the castle in Fukuoka Castle Ruins Visitor Center.

上ノ橋大手門跡~The ruins of Kaminohashi-Ote-mon Gate
現在の三の丸~The present Third Enclosure
平和台球場の記念碑~The monument of the Heiwadai Stadium
鴻臚館跡展示館~Kourokan Ruins Exhibition Hall
鴻臚館の遺物~Some of the findings of the excavation in Korokan Ruins Exhibition Hall

二の丸、本丸へ~To Second and Main Enclosures

城周辺の地図~The map around the castle

二の丸と本丸へは、三の丸から登っていきます。二の丸は本丸を囲んでいます。二の丸に関しては、2階建てで50mの長さがある多門櫓が現存しています。この櫓は城の裏口にあり、現在も堅く守っているように見えます。1971年には重要文化財にも指定されました。
You can climb from Sannomaru to Ninomaru and Honmaru. Ninomaru is surrounding Honmaru. Regarding to Ninomaru, there is a two-story and over 50m long turret called “Tamon-Yagura” that remains in its original state. It was located at back entrance of the castle, so even now it looks very defensive. It was also designated as an Important Cultural Property in 1971.

三の丸から見た二の丸~The Second Enclosure from the Third Enclosure
現存する多門櫓~The remaining Tamon-Yagura Turret

本丸は城のもっとも高い位置にあります。巨大な天守台に石垣が際立っています。前述した通り、研究者はこの石垣の上に天守があったのかどうか考察しています。ここからは福岡市一帯を見渡すことができます。祈念櫓は本丸で唯一残っている建物です。この櫓は一旦他の場所に移されましたが、1983年に元の場所に戻されました。
Honmaru was at the highest point of the castle. The large stone wall base for Tenshu is outstanding. Researchers wonder if the Tenshu was on the base, as I mentioned above. You can observe the whole area of Fukuoka City from there. Kinen Turret is the only remaining building at Honmaru. It was once moved to another, but returned to its original position in 1983.

天守台(外側)~The base for the Main Tower, the outside
天守台(内側)~The base for the Main Tower, the inside
天守台からの眺め~A view from the base for the Main Tower
祈念櫓~Kinen Turret

その後~Later History

黒田氏は、現在は福岡市として知られている城とその城下町を江戸時代末期まで統治しました。明治維新後、城のほとんどの建物は撤去されるか、近代施設に置き換えられました。第二次世界大戦前は軍の基地、戦後は平和台球場といった具合です。城跡は舞鶴公園と大濠公園となっています。最近、福岡市はこの2つの公園を合わせたセントラルパーク構想を発表しました。また、残っている文書を基に福岡城のいくつかの櫓を、発掘の成果を基に鴻臚館の建物を復元するとのことです。それには長い期間がかかります。
The Kuroda clan continued to govern Fukuoka Castle and the castle town, that are now known as Fukuoka city, until the end of the Edo Period. After the Meiji Restoration, most of the buildings in the castle were demolished or replaced with modern facilities like the Army base before World War II, or the Heiwadai Stadium after the war. The ruins of the castle have been turned into Maiduru Park and Ohori Park. Recently, Fukuoka City has announced that it will develop the Central Park, including the two existing parks. The city will also restore some of Fukuoka Castle’s turrets, based on the documents that remain as well as the buildings of Kouro-kan, based on the excavation’s findings. They expect the restoration will take a long time.

1990年頃の城周辺の航空写真~The aerial photo of around the castle around 1990

私の感想~My Impression

私は、福岡城には一時完成したか、建設中の天守があったのではないか、ただし幕府の権威を憚って計画的に自ら解体したのではないかと思っています。それが天守があった証拠が見つからない理由でしょう。また、最近の人たちはあまり福岡城跡を歴史公園として見てこなかったように思います。レジャー、運動、そしてオフィスビルとしての用途のためです。しかしながら、この城跡はまだまだ史跡として大きな潜在能力を持っています。今後城の建物が充実してきたら、また訪れてみようと思います。
I guess that Fukuoka Castle once sported a completed or under construction Main Tower, but Kuroda had to destroy it systematically by themselves considering the Shogunate’s authority. That’s why there is no evidence of the Main Tower.
I also think that recent people have not been interested in the ruins of Fukuoka Castle as a historical park. They think the parks are for leisure, exercise, or officials buildings. However, the ruins still have a great potential for a historic site. I will be waiting for some buildings to be renovated so I can visit them again.

裏御門跡~The ruins of the Back Gate

ここに行くには~How to get There

福岡市地下鉄空港線の赤坂駅または大濠公園駅から徒歩で10分以内です。
車の場合:都市高速の天神北または西公園ランプから約3kmのところです。舞鶴公園に駐車場があります。
It takes less than 10 minutes From Akasaka or Ohori-Koen station on Kuko line, Fukuoka City Subway to get there on foot.
If you want to go there by car: It is about 3 km away from the Tenjin-kita or Nishi-koen Ramp on Urban Expressway. Maiduru park offers a parking lot.

リンク、参考情報~Links and References

福岡城むかし探訪館~Fukuoka Castle Ruins Visitor Center(Only Japanese?)
・「よみがえる日本の城20」学研(Japanese Book)
・福岡市「セントラルパーク構想」(Fukuoka City Official Document)