After Hachioji Castle fell, the castle was abandoned. The ruins have been very well preserved as the Tokugawa Shogunate directly owned the land and did not allow people to access the area. The Japanese Government also considered the area as a national forest and did not allow for the removal of trees. The ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1951. Since then, Hachioji City has been investigating and developing them as a historical park.
The Matsuki EnclosureA view from the mountain
My Impression
Hachioji City is a large city with a population of nearly 600,000. The city first started as the castle town for Hachioji Castle. I knew this fact, but I hadn’t visited the castle ruins until recently. Before that, I thought the ruins may not have been interesting because the castle fell in just one day. Since my visit, I now feel the castle could have escaped capture if it had enough commanders and soldiers.
The restored Main RouteThe stone walls around the entrance of the Main Hall ruins
How to get There
If you want to visit there using public transportation: Take the Nishi-Tokyo bus from the bus stop No.1 at the north entrance of JR Takao Station, and get off at the Reien-Mae, Hachioji-joato-Iriguchi bus stop. If you want to visit there by car: It is about 10 minutes away from Hachioji-Nishi IC on Metropolitan Inter-City Expressway. The guidance facility offers a parking lot.
Hachioji Castle was a large mountain castle located in what is now Hachioji City, the western part of Tokyo Metropolitan, the Kanto Region. In the late 16th Century during the Sengoku Period, the Hojo Clan owned most of the region. The clan was based in Odawara Castle located at the southwest corner of the region, while they built the network of branch castles in the region to maintain their territory. Hachioji Castle was one of the main branch castles for the clan.
The location of the castle
The castle was first built by Ujiteru Hojo at latest in 1584, replacing Takiyama Castle located about 10km northeast of Hachioji Castle. There were several reasons for the replacement, one of which was that the Hojo Clan wanted to have a much stronger castle. The tension between Hojo and the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi was increasing at that time, so Hojo hurried to improve the castle. They put as much of their power and technology as they could into this castle.
The ruins of Takiyama Castle
Three Parts
Hachioji Castle consisted of three parts. The first one is called the Nekoya Area which was used for residences of retainers and craftsmen around the entrance of the castle. This area is alongside the Shiroyama River in a valley terrain.
The three parts (The diorama of the castle at the site, adding the comments)
The second part is called the Residence on the Foot Area where the Main Hall for the lord of the castle was built. This area is also alongside the river and the back of the Nekoya Area but was strictly protected. Visitors had to go across the river to enter the Main Gate, go the Main Route, and go across the river again over the Movable Bridge in front of the Main Hall. The bridge would be removed when a battle happened. The entrance of the hall was zigzagged, and its foundation was covered with terraced stone walls. The hall was made up of several buildings including the formal ones called “Shuden” or the Palace, and “Kaisho” or the Club. It also had a pond garden to host visitors. A lot of items such as utensils, weapons, and imported porcelains were found by the excavation.
The restored or developed Residence on the Foot Area
The last part is the Fortress on the Mountain Area which would be used when a battle happened. The Main Enclosure is on the 445m high top of the mountain (about 200m higher than the foot, which itself is a 200m above ground). Many other enclosures were built around the Main Enclosure and the ridges are used for the trails between the top and the foot of the mountain. In particular, lots of stone walls covered these enclosures and trails. In addition, not only the front of the Main Enclosure, but also the back of it was also protected strictly by small forts and ridges covered with stone walls. Such structures for a mountain castle were very rare, so the castle can be seen a completed version of mountain castles in Japan.
The ruins of the Fortress on the Mountain Area
Captured by Hideyoshi Toyotomi’s troop in One day
However, the castle was taken over by Hideyoshi’s troops in one day. On June 23, 1590, at least 35,000 soldiers attacked the castle, while the number of the defenders was only 3,000 including farmers and women. The lord, Ujiteru wasn’t there because he was at Odawara Castle. In addition, Hideyoshi ordered his troops to charge and capture the castle. The castle was too large for the 3,000 people to prevent from the bare-knuckled attack. There has been a sad story that many women threw themselves into the waterfall basin of the river before the castle fell.
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, ownd by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The waterfall of Go-Shuden (licensed by じゃんもどき via Wikimedia Commons)
城跡は自然とともに残っています。
The castle ruins remain with nature.
本丸と中の丸をつなぐ曳橋～The movable bridge between Honmaru and Nakanomaru
立地と歴史～Location and History
滝山城は現在の八王子市の多摩川南岸の河岸段丘上にありました。この城の起源は、戦国時代のいずれかの時点で大石氏によると言われていますが、１５６０年の上杉謙信の関東侵攻をきっかけとして、北条氏照が拡張、完成させました。この城の使命は、小田原城の防御線になることと、小田原と北関東とのルートを確保することでした。 Takiyama Castle was located on the southern bank terrace of Tamagawa River in what is now Hachioji City, Tokyo. The origin of the castle is said to be by the Oishi clan sometime in “Sengoku” or the Warring States Period, but Ujiteru Hojo improved and completed the castle, inspired by the Kenshin Uesugi’s Kanto invasion in 1560. The mission of the castle was to be the defense line for Odawara Castle and to hold the route between Odawara and the northern Kanto region.
滝山城の位置、赤い線は1560年の上杉謙信の侵攻概略ルート、青い線は1569年の武田信玄のもの～The location of Takiyama Castle, the red line shows the rough attack route of Kenshin Uesugi in 1560, the blue line is that of Shingen Takeda in 1569
この城の北側は多摩川に沿って急な崖となっていて、攻めるには困難でした。この城の３つの主な通路は、川の反対側にある滝山街道につながっていました。これらの通路は全て二の丸に集まっていました。二の丸は防衛の中心拠点であり、桝形という方形の入り口と、馬出と呼ばれる障壁となる関門が通路に向かって設置されていました。 The northern side of the castle was a steep cliff along Tamagawa River which is difficult to attack. The three main routes to the castle were connected from the Takiyama Road, the opposite side of the river. The routes all gathered the Ninomaru enclosure. The enclosure was the defensive center which had square entrances called Masugata and gateway barriers called Umadashi heading towards these routes.
城周辺の起伏地図～The relief map around the castle
二の丸の後ろには、中の丸と本丸がありました。双方が曳橋という可動橋によってつながっており、緊急時には容易に取り外しが可能でした。本丸は、中心でかつ最後の曲輪となりますが、比較的小さいように思えます。歴史家は、そこが土豪が作ったこの城の最初の場所だったのだろうと推測しています。 The back of Ninomaru are Nakanomaru and Honmaru enclosures. Both were tied by a movable bridge called Hikihashi that could be removed easily for in emergency. Honmaru was the main and last enclosure which looked relatively small. Some historians speculate it could be the origin of the castle for a local clan.
城周辺の地図～The map around the castle
１５６９年、甲斐（現在の山梨県）から武田信玄が北条の領地に侵入し、この城を攻撃しました。信玄は二の丸に迫りましたが、諦めて小田原の方に向かったと言われています。氏照は滝山城を守り切ったのです。 In 1569, Shingen Takeda from Kai Province (now Yamanashi Pref.) invaded Hojo’s territory and attacked the castle. It is said that Shingen approached Ninomaru, but gave up and transferred to Odawara. Ujiteru was successful in keeping Takiyama Castle.
武田信玄肖像画、高野山持明院蔵、１６世紀～The portrait of Shingen Takeda, owned by Jimyo-in, in the 16th century（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
１５８４年前後、氏照は城下町ごと八王子城の方に移っていきました。この理由は歴史家によって分かれています。一つは、武田との戦いの結果から北条がより強い城を必要としたというものです。もう一つは、１５７８年に謙信が死に、１５８２年に武田が滅亡したので滝山城はもう必要なくなったというものです。 Around 1584, Ujiteru moved to Hachioji Castle with the castle town. Historians’ opinion about the reason remain divided. One is that Hojo needed a stronger castle than Takiyama because of the result of battle with Takeda. The other is that there would be no need for Takiyama Castle after Kenshin died in 1578, and Takeda was destructed in 1582.
二の丸周辺～Around Ninomaru
特徴～Features
城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo of around the castle
現在、城跡は都立滝山公園という自然公園の一部になっています。木々、植物、そして花に囲まれたハイキングコースがあります。車かバスを使った場合には、三の丸と小宮曲輪に挟まれた通路から入っていきます。 Now, the ruins of the castle are inside of a nature park called Metropolitan Takiyama Park. There are hiking trails among trees, plants and flowers. When using cars or buses, you will enter one of the routes sandwiched Sannnomaru and Komiya enclosures.
駐車場かバス停からの通路～The route from the parking lot or the bus stop
このルートは狭く、美しい竹林の合間をまっすぐ登っていきます。 The route is narrow and straight up among a beautiful bamboo forest.
竹林に囲まれた通路～The route surrounded by the bamboo forest
城跡の入り口は折れ曲がっていて、かつては城全体を囲んでいた長い空堀が目に入ってきます。 The entrance of ruins is zigzagged and you can see a long dry moat that surrounded the whole castle area in the past.
城跡の入り口～The entrance of the castle ruins城跡を囲む空堀～The dry moat surrounding the castle ruins
敵は、周りの曲輪による両側からの反撃を受けることになります。１５６９年の武田の攻撃によりこの辺りは占領されてしまったと言われています。 Enemies had to break counterattacks from both sides of the enclosures around. It is said that Takeda’s attack in 1569 was able to capture this area.
三の丸を見上げる～Looking up Sannomaru enclosure
道は左手に深い谷を見ながら進み、千畳敷と呼ばれる広場を過ぎ、防御の中心拠点二の丸に至ります。ここには馬出しと桝形の遺構があります。 The route goes on next to a deep valley on your left. Then, passing a wide area called Senjojiki, you will reach the defense center Ninomaru. There are the ruins of Umadashi and Masugata.
左手は深い谷です～The deep valley on the left千畳敷～The area called Senjojiki馬出し跡、正面～The ruins of Umadashi, the front side馬出し跡、背面～The ruins of Umadashi, the back side二の丸の中心地～The center of Ninomaru
その後、中の丸と本丸の間にかかった曳橋が見えてきます。 After that, you can see the restored movable bridge between Nakanomaru and Honmaru.
曳橋～The movable bridge中の丸から見た橋～The bridge from Nakanomaru
中の丸からは多摩川周辺の風景を眺めることができます。 You can also see a view of around Tamagawa River from Nakanomaru.
中の丸～Nakanomaru enclosure中の丸からの眺め～A view from Nakanomaru
最近の発掘により、本丸には桝形があり、その床には自然石が敷き詰めてあり、排水の仕組みもあったとのことです。 The recent excavation found that Honmaru had a Masugata gate on the floor covered with natural river stones, and a draining system.
本丸の桝形跡～The ruins of Honmaru Masugata gate本丸の内部～The inside of Honmaru
その後～Later History
この城は、戦国時代のうちに放棄されました。そのため、当時の城の構造がよい状態で自然とともに残っているのです。城跡は、１９５１年に国の史跡にも指定されました。 The castle was abandoned during the Warring States Period. That’s why the structure of a castle at that time remains well with nature. The ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1951 as well.
曳橋からの風景～A view from the movable bridge
私の感想～My Impression
城跡となっている場所は、主に自然公園として使われています。小道を歩き回っている観光客の人たちがたくさんいます。歴史ファンというよりは自然愛好家という感じです。これも史跡を活用する一つのやり方と思います。また、この城が自然の地形をうまく活用して作られたとも言えるでしょう。 The site of the castle ruins is mainly used as a natural park. You can see many tourists walking around the trails. They look like nature lovers rather than history fans. I think this is one of the ways to use historical sites. It also proves the castle was built using natural terrain very well.
小宮曲輪から通路を見下ろす～Looking down the route from Komiya enclosure
ここに行くには～How to get There
車で行く場合：中央自動車道の八王子ＩＣから約１５分かかります。国道411号（滝山街道）沿いに観光駐車場があります。 ＪＲ八王子駅または京王八王子駅からバスで行く場合：戸吹、秋川駅、または戸吹スポーツ公園入口行きバスに乗り、滝山城址下バス停で降りてください。 If you want to go there by car: It takes about 15 minutes from the Hachioji IC on Chuo Expressway. There is the parking lot for tourists along Route 411 (Takiyama Road). If you want to go there by bus from JR Hachioji station or Keio-Hachioji station: Take the bus for Tobuki, Akikawa-eki or Tobuki-sports-koen-iriguchi and take off at the Takiyama-joshi-shita bus stop.
