To arrive at the Main Enclosure, you will have to pass three other enclosures on the ridge. The enclosure has its entrance ruins with stone steps and stone walls, and some stone walls surround it. Many other stone walls were found by the excavation but buried again in order to preserve it. It is still uncertain who and when these structures were built. Some historians point out they are similar to those of Odani Castle that the Azai Clan built.
The map around the castle
Going to the Main EnclosureThe entrance ruins of the Main Enclosure (licensed by HikaruKinkakuji via Wikimedia Commons)The Kurogane-mon Gate Ruins of Odani Castle
Later History
After its abandonment, Kamaha Castle had been buried for over 400 years. Maibara Town (now is Maibara City), which manages the ruins of the castle, did the research and excavation between 1996 and 2000. It found that the castle had surprisingly advanced systems for mountain castles at that time. As a result, the ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 2005.
The stone walls of Kamaha Castle RuinsThe observation platform at the Large Turret Ruins
My Impression
I can honestly say that I regret not having enough time and preparation to visit the castle ruins. I didn’t think visiting them needed real climbing. As a result, I didn’t see all of them. I recommend you visit with a group, if possible, because it is quite risky. In addition, there are other routes for visiting the ruins by using car on a forest road near the ruins. Someday I would like to study it and try visiting all of them.
The trail from the underpasses of Hikone43 of the Meshin ExpresswayWatch out for wild animals
How to get There
I recommend using a car when you visit the castle ruins. It is about a 5-minute drive away from Maibara IC on the Meishin Expressway. There is a parking lot in the old Banba Station near the underpass of Hikone44 of the expressway. If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Kohoku Bus bound for Toray Carbon Magic from JR Maibara Station and get off at the Banba bus stop. To get to Maibara Station from Tokyo: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express.
The parking lot for visitors at the old Banba StationThe path from the parking lot to the underpasses of Hikone44
Today, visiting the ruins of Kamaha Castle needs climbing up the mountain. There are several routes for visiting them. Probably the popular ones are from the old Banba Station on the old Nakasendo Road, because they reach the front side of the castle. You have to walk on the routes for about 1 hour, but many signs will lead you along the way. From the station, you will first go through the underpasses of Hikone44 or 43 of the Meshin Expressway. You have to open and close the front wire netting gate in order to shut animals outside it when you pass. The inside of the gate is basically the animal kingdom now. the route from Hikone44 is relatively smooth but longer, and the one from Hikone43 is shorter but comparatively steeper. The route from Hikone43 seemed to be the original Main Route.
The map around the castle
The old Banba Station on the old Nakasendo RoadA distant view of the mountain where the castle was builtThe underpass of Hikone44 of the Meshin ExpresswayThe underpass of Hikone43 of the Meshin Expressway
If you choose the route from Hikone44, the first part of your visit is completely a trek. You will go on the trail along natural valleys and ridges for over 30 minutes. The signs will show you when you are close to the castle ruins. You will also find a bear-avoiding bell that you can ring. You may not visualize there was an advanced castle where many people usually used it over such a place.
Going on the trail from the underpass of Hikone44A bear-avoiding bellGoing on a ridgeClosing to the castle ruins
Large Ditch and Stone Walls
You will first reach the Large Ditch in the northern edge of the castle. It may look like a natural valley, but, in fact, it is artificial. The enclosure behind the ditch is called the North VI.
The map around the castle
The Large DitchLooking up the North VI Enclosure from the Large Ditch
You can see the Large Stone Walls in the western side of the enclosure. These stone walls were made in a unique method which uses clay to fill in the gaps.
The Large Stone WallsThe cray between the stones can’t be seen just looking at them
Ruins of Large Turret and Entrance
Large scale earthen walls also remain on the enclosure, which supported the Large Turret in the past. A simple wooden observation platform stands there now.
The North VI EnclosureThe remaining earthen walls of the enclosureLooking down the Large Ditch from the observation platformA view from the observation platform
The next part is the North V Enclosure which has the other entrance ruins with stone steps and stone mound than those in the Main Enclosure.
The entrance ruins of the North V EnclosureWater is supplied in the enclosure from its source somewhere
After that is the North IV Enclosure has another wooden observation platform for visitors probably because it is a good viewing spot. You can enjoy a good view of the Omi Plain beside Biwa Lake.
The North IV EnclosureThe observation platform in the North IV EnclosureA view from the observation platform
Border Castle between Northern and Southern Omi Province
Kamaha Castle was a mountain castle during the Sengoku Period, which was located in Omi Provence (currently the modern day location of Shiga Prefecture). Its position was in the central area of the province, which at the time was divided into two parts, the northern part and the southern part. As a result, the two warlords from the Rokkaku Clan in the south and the warlord from the Azai Clan in the north were constantly gaining and loosing castles each other. Kamaha Castle was built on one of the ridges, which was 384 meters high, of Mt. Ryozen,. The name “Kamaha” which means “Sickle Blade” got its name from the shape of the ridge with its steep sides. The castle was located near a major road called “Nakasendo”, which was conveniently located for battle making it easier for transportation as well.
The range of Omi Province and the location of the castle
城周辺の起伏地図
In the middle of the 16th Century, during the Sengoku Period, the Hori Clan was the ruler of the castle. The clan frequently changed their masters depending on the situation. In one instance, back in 1553, the Rokkaku Clan attacked Kamaha Castle, forcing the Hori Clan to escape, eventually surrendering the castle completely. However, the Hori Clan would eventually form an allegiance with the Azai Clan, most likely because the Azai Clan was gaining a lot of power at that time. Back in 1570, The Azai Clan fought Nobunaga Oda, where Hidemura Hori sided with Nobunaga who was easily persuaded by Hideyoshi Hashiba, the eventual ruler of Japan. This was the destiny of lord of the border castle.
The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Harsh Fate of Hidemura Hiri, Lord of Castle
Since Hidemura formed an allegiance with Hideyoshi, the Azai Clan were eventually beaten. Furthermore, Hideyoshi assisted Hidemura defend Kamaha Castle from an Azai Clan attack in 1571. This resulted in Nobunaga, Hidemura and Hideyoshi capturing Odani Castle (the home base of the Azai Clan) in 1573. A year later (in 1574) shortly after the succession, Hidemura was fired by Nobunaga due to Hidemura’s senior vassal’s failures. The primary reason for this is still unknown, but perhaps we can assume that this was purely the cruelty of Nobunaga’s character. Some historians speculate that there was a power imbalance since Hidemura was getting more powerful through his allegiance with Nobunaga. It was well-known that Hidemura accumulated more territory than Hideyoshi, who at the time was Nobunaga’s important retainer. Nobunaga might have the rebellion by Hidemura, or perhaps he wanted to take the territory for him. As the famous Chinese proverb goes “When the nimble rabbit dies, the hunting dog will be cooked”, so too was the fate of Hidemura. Finally, there is a strong belief by historians that Hidemura was hired by Hideyoshi and his brother Hidenaga in the end.
The ruins of Odani CastleThe portrait of Hidenaga Toyotomi, owned by Shungakuin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Systems of Castle improved uniquely
Kamaha Castle was finally abandoned in 1575. Some historians assumed that because the castle was made of soil, and that it was inferior to other castles, that it was abandoned sooner than other castles. However, according to a more recent excavation, it was revealed that Kamaha Castle actually had an advance system compared to other mountain castles. Kamaha Castle had at least a 3-level large turret, like a Main Tower, in the northern enclosures of the castle. This turret was thought to be used by defenders who shot arrows against attackers, as well as a large ditch located in front of it. If attackers had the misfortune of getting stuck in the ditch, it would give a clear and perfect sight for the defenders. Many enclosures were surrounded by stone walls. Moreover, the main enclosure at the center of the castle had its entrance with a square space surrounded by stone walls and steps called “Koguchi”. These types of systems were seldom seen in castles that were built after Azuchi Castle which Nobunaba built back in 1579. Based on these findings, Kamaha Castle was truly more advance than Azuchi Castle.
The imaginary drawing of the large turret of Kamaha Castle, quoted from the Kamaha Castle Official SiteThe imaginary drawing of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Gifu Castle Museum
On the other hand, there were some differences between Kamaha Castle and Azuchi Castle as well. The large turret in Kamaha Castle was placed on earthen walls, and not on stone walls. These stone walls supported the earthen walls which prevented them from collapsing. In the case of Azuchi Castle, its main tower was built on stone walls directly. The Koguchi entrance of Kamaha Castle was designed for the gate of the main hall, and not for defense. Koguchi entrances built after Azuchi Castle exhibited more defensive capabilities, combined with complex routes. Historian often speculate that the systems used in Kamaha Castle had been improved uniquely, but was eventually replaced with other systems which were first seen in Azuchi Castle. However, the design of Kamaha Castle ‘s large turret might have been used for the main towers of other castles. This is because Hideoyoshi who would eventually build Osaka Castle included its main tower, must have seen the large turret when he worked with Hidemura at Kamaha Castle.
The stone walls of Kamaha CastleThe stone wall base for the Main Tower of Azuchi CastleKoguchi entrance ruins of Kamaha CastleThe Kocuchi entrance of the Kurogane-mon Gate of Azuchi Castle
