129.Tatsuoka Castle Part1

The second Goryokaku

Location and History

Matsudaira Clans are Shogun’s Relatives

Tatsuoka Castle was located in Shinao Province which is modern day Nagano Prefecture. It was built at the end of the Edo Period and it is one of the two Pentagonal Style Forts in Japan, with Goryokaku in Hokkaido. The builder of the castle was Norikata Matsudaira, who was the lord of the Tatsuoka Domain. In fact, there were so many Matsudaira Clans at that time, which were the relatives of the Tokugawa families in the shogunate. The family name “Tokugawa” was only allowed to be used with the few core family members who could be the Shogun. The other Tokugawa’s relatives used “Matsudaira” as their family name which had been their original before the first Shogun, Ieyasu started to use Tokugawa.

The photo of Norikata Matsudaira, in the Meiji Era (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The Matsudaira Clans can roughly be categorized into three groups. The first group is those which originated from Ieyasu or other Shogun’s children, such as the Echizen Matsudaira Clan at Fukui Castle and the Aizu Matsudaira Clan at Wakamatsu Castle. They were very reliable to the Shogunate, so they often had large territories and castles. The second group is those which had existed before Ieyasu was born, and are sometimes called the Eighteen Matsudaira Clans. In fact, Ieyasu came from one of them, called the Anjo Matsudaira Clan. They were also certainly Ieyasu’s relatives, but he trusted them less than the first group because they could be a competitor to him. As a result, they often had smaller territories which sometimes weren’t allowed to have their own castles because of the area criterion. The last group is those who didn’t have any blood relation with Ieyasu or other Shoguns, but were allowed to use Matsudaira for special reasons.

The ruins of Fukui Castle
Wakamatsu Castle

Norikata from Matsdaira Clans builds Castle

Norikata Matsudaira belonged to the Second group and his clan was also called the Ogyu Matsudaira Clan. Ogyu was the name of their original territory and has been used to identify them among many other Matsudaira Clans. In fact, the clan itself had several branch families because of its long history. Norikata was the lord of the Okutono Domain with an earning of only 16 thousand koku of rice, which meant he was not allowed to have a castle. In addition, his territory was divided into the smaller Okutono in Mikawa Province (now part of Aichi Pref.) and the larger Tatsuoka. His domain had been based in Okutono, so called the Okutono Domain, and the lords had lived in a hall, called the Okutono Camp.

The restored Okutono Camp (licensed by Bariston via Wikimedia Commons)

The situation changed after Japan opened the country to several Western countries in 1854. The shogunate relaxed the restrictions for the lords against the threats from these countries. Norikata was an excellent politician and he learned a lot about the Western items. He thought it was a good chance to do something using his knowledge to follow the government’s new policies. One of them was to move his home base to the larger Tatsuoka, and another was to build his own castle, called Tatsuoka Castle.

The location of the castle

Norikata’s attempts were allowed by the shogunate and the construction of the castle (officially it was still called a camp) started in 1864. The castle was designed to be a European style fort which had five bastions like a star. It came from Norikata’s ideas and was thought to be an effective way to protect it from enemies’ attacks from any directions. The five pointed star shape was all surrounded by advanced stone walls like the Tortoise Shell style and Hanedashi style (in which all the stones in the top row are so layered to prevent enemies from invading). It was expected that water moats were dug all around the castle and canons were placed inside all the bastions. There were the Main Hall for the lord and a parade ground inside. The castle was finally completed in 1866, following the first Pentagonal Style Fort known as Goryokaku in Hokkaido, which was completed back in 1864. Norikata was very pleased to see it, inviting local people to show it, then his domain would be re-considered the Tatsuoka Domain.

The ground plan of Tatsuoka Castle, from the signboard at the site
The stone walls of Tatsuoka Castle
Goryokaku in Hokkaido

Castle for Experiment

However, in fact, there were some disadvantages for the castle. First, Tatsuoka Castle was much smaller than Goryokaku. It was about 150m long, about half of Goryokaku at about 300m, so in terms of size, it was about one forth the size. The stone walls were 3.5m high and the moats were about 10m wide at most, which would be insufficient even in the Sengoku Period. The moats actually covered two thirds of the perimeter and only one bastion had a cannon. Moreover, the castle could be easily targeted by a cannon from a mountain, at about 500m away from it. What did the facts mean for the castle? Norikata probably meant the castle to not be used for a battle, but for authority of his government and an experiment of new technologies instead. The life of the castle only lasted a few years because of the Meiji Restoration.

The water moats of this castle is not so wide
The back side has no moats

The relief map around the castle

To be continued in “Tatsuoka Castle Part2”

30.Takato Castle Part1

The stage for the battle of Takato Castle

Location and History

Castle for governing Ina District

Takato Castle was located in Shinano Province (what is now Nagano Prefecture). The Province was very large, so people often considered it as a group of districts. Ina District was the southern part of the province with a long valley terrain from the north to the south sandwiched by mountains. That’s why people also often call the district the Ina Valley. The valley connected the center of the province such as Suwa District and other provinces in the south such as Mikawa Province. That means Ina District was very important for transportation and governance. Takato Castle was on the edge of the mountains on the east of the valley, which was a good location to govern the district.

The ranges of Shinano Province and Ina District (the highlighted part)

The relief map around the castle

Improved by Takeda Clan

The Takato Clan, a local warlord first lived in Takato Castle in the first 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. In 1545, The Takeda Clan of Kai Province from the east capture the castle in the process of invading Shinano Province. Since then, The Takeda Clan sent their relatives as the lords of the castle, such as Katsuyori Takeda who became the last lord of the clan later. They improved the castle during their governance.

The Portrait of Katsuyori Takeda, ownd by Koyasan Jimyoin (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The foundation of castle was built using only soil. The edge of the mountains where the castle was located was surrounded by the Mibu and Fujisawa Rivers in the north, south and west. The mountains in the east were visible through the Back Gate. The Main Gate was at the western side of the castle, facing a steep slope. In addition, the castle was protected by tripled moats. The Main Enclosure was inside the Inner Moat, the Second Enclosure was inside the Middle Moat, and the Third Enclosure was inside the Outer Moat.

Part of the illustration of Takato Castle in Shinano Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

Battle of Takato Castle happens

In 1582, the Battle of Takato Castle between the Takeda Clan and the Oda Clan happened. Nobunaga Oda, unifying the whole country sent his son, Nobutada Oda with about 50,000 soldiers to Takeda’s territory. On the other hand, Morinobu Nishina, Katsuyori’s little brother was in the castle with only 3,000 defenders. Katsuyori, who was at Shinpu Castle about 70km east of Takato Castle, tried to help his brother, but couldn’t. Because most of his vassals betrayed or escaped before the Takeda Clan was defeated. Morinobu didn’t surrender and had to fight with Oda without help. Nobutada himself instructed his troops and charged into both gates of the castle, while the defenders including women fought a desperate defensive battle. However, they were outnumbered, and the castle finally fell in one day. This battle is regarded as the only resistance during the Oda’s invasion into Takeda’s territory.

The portrait of Nobutada Oda, owned by Sokenji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Morinobu Nishina, owned by Takato Historical Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Maintained by Takato Domain

There was confusion after Nobunaga’s sudden death, a former Takeda’s retainer, the Hoshina Clan got Takato Castle and became the first lord of the Takato Domain in the Edo Period. The castle also became the government building of the domain. The castle for the domain followed the layout of Takeda’s period, but some turrets and plaster walls were built as a castle in the Early Modern Times. The Hoshina Clan accepted the second Shogun’s son named Masayuki as their successor. He also became a senior vassal of the Tokugawa Shogunate and contributed the stabilization of its governance. He was lastly promoted to the lord of Wakamatsu Castle at Aizu Domain. Takato Castle and Takato Domain were followed by the Torii Clan and finally the Naito Clan. The Naito Clan governed them for a long time between 1691 and 1871.

The portrait of Masayuki Hoshina, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Hanitsu Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Takato Castle Part2”

29.松本城(Matsumoto Castle)

Location and History

松本城天守と埋橋(Matsumoto castle keep and Uzumi bridge)

松本城、特にその天守は現在の長野県松本市において際立った存在です。しかし、現在までの道のりは平坦ではありませんでした。16世紀に小笠原氏が最初にこの地に城を築き、しばらくして松本城と名付けました。1590年、石川氏がここに移され、城の拡張に手をつけ、そして天守を建てました。何度か改築の後、松平氏によって1633年に現在と同じ姿に至りました。
The Matsumoto castle, particularly its keep “Tenshu” is outstanding now in Matsumoto city, Nagano prefecture. But the road to present has not been smooth. In the 16th century, the Ogasawara clan first built the castle in this area. After a while, they named it Matsumoto castle. In 1590, the Ishikawa clan were transferred to the area and started to spread the castle and they also built the Tenshu. It was modified several times and reached the same appearance as now in 1633 by the Matsudaira clan.

松本城航空写真(The aerial photo of Matsumoto Castle)





Features

城の歴史は長いですが、城のシンボルはとにかく天守に尽きます。天守は「大天守」「乾小天守」2つの櫓「辰巳附櫓」「月見櫓」から成っていて、互いにつながっている構造です。大天守は、東日本で唯一の現存5層天守であり、黒く輝いている姿を見ることができるのは、下見板(板壁)に毎年特別な漆が塗られているからなのです。
In spite of its long history, the symbol of the castle is just the Tenshu. It consists of the large keep “Dai-Tenshu”, the Inui small keep “Sho-Tenshu”, and two turrets (Tatsumi-Tsuke Yagura and Tsukimi Yagura) which are connected to each other. Daitenshu is the only one remaining and its five-story castle keep in the east Japan. It has a brilliant black colored look coming from wooden side walls painted with special Japanese lacquer, annually.

天守西面、左から乾小天守、大天守(The west side of Tenshu. Inui Sho-Tenshu, Dai-Tenshu from the left)
天守南面、左から大天守、辰巳附櫓、月見櫓(The south side of Tenshu. Dai-Tenshu, Tatsumi-Tsuke-Yagura, Tsukimi-Yagura from the left)

松本城は、同じく5層の大天守を持つ姫路城とよく比較されるのですが、姫路城の方は西日本にあって白亜に塗られており、とても対照的です。松本城の天守はまた、国宝に指定されている現存5天守の1つとなっています(他は、姫路、彦根、犬山、松江)。
It is often compared with the Himegi castle’s equally five-story Dai-Tenshu painted in white clearly in the west Japan by contrast. Matsumoto castle’s Tenshu is also designated as one of the 5 remaining keeps of Japan’s national treasures (the others are Himeji, Hikone, Inuyama and Matsue).

「白い」姫路城天守(The “white” Himeji castle keep)

そもそも城の装備、例えば石落としや狭間などは正に戦いのために作られているのですが、それに加えてよくデザインされ、各層の屋根ともよくマッチしています。
Basically its devices such as machicolations and loopholes were built just for battles, they were also well designed and match each story’s roof.

松本城の石落とし(One of Matsumoto castle’s machicolations)takeen by あけび from photo AC

この城の美しく調和が取れた姿は、歴史ファンだけでなく、写真家、芸術家、一般の観光客を魅了しています。一例として、日本アルプスを背景にした松本城は、ともよい写真の主題になると思います。
Its beautiful total balance of the castle has been attracting not only history fans but also photographers, artists and everyday visitors. For example, Matsumoto castle with the background of the Japan Alps could be a very good photo subject.

日本アルプスを背景にした松本城(Matsumoto Castle with the background of the Japan Alps)

天守の中に入ることもできます。実は内部は6階建てです。ほとんど木材によりながら、こんなにも頑丈に作られていることに驚かれることでしょう。但し、内部はどちらかといえば暗く狭く、階段は急です。ですので動きやすい服装で登閣されることをおすすめします。
You can also get in the inside of the Tenshu which in fact consists of 6 floors. You may be surprised to see how strong it is built by using mainly wooden materials. But the inside is relatively dark and narrow, and stairways are steep. So it is recommended to wear comfortable clothes.

松本城天守の内部(A view of the inside of Matsumoto castle’s Tenshu)taken by あけび from photo AC

Later Life

その後の松本城はとてもシビアでした。まず江戸時代、本丸御殿が焼け落ちたとき、松本藩の藩士たちは必死に働き、天守に火が及ぶのを防ぎました。明治維新の後、他の建物が皆撤去されていき、ついには天守も売られてしまい、廃材として解体されるところでした。ここで社会運動家の市川量造が登場し、買主に待ってもらうよう頼み、その間に資金を集め、ついには買い戻しに成功しました。
The later life of Matsumoto castle was very severe. In the Edo period, when the Honmaru main hall was burned down, warriors of the feudal domain of Matsumoto worked their hardest to prevent Tenshu from burning. After the Meiji restoration, all of the other buildings were removed, and finally Tenshu was sold to possibly be for waste material. Ryozo Ichikawa, a social campaigner came out, then asked the buyer to suspend, after that he collected money to get it back, and was successful in the end.

明治時代の天守写真、松本城管理事務所蔵(The picture of Tenshu in the Meiji Era, owned by Matsumoto Castle Management Bureau)licensed under public domain via Wikimedia Commons

しかしながら、それだけでは不十分でした。このような大きく古い建物の維持には、継続的なメンテナンスが必要なのです。明治中期には、天守は柱の腐りから6度傾いてしまい、中にはコウモリが住む有様でした。ここでもう一人の救世主、学校の校長であった小林有也が登場し、城の修復に尽力しました。そしてついには松本城は国宝に指定されたのです。更には最近では、天守の周りに過去にあった門、黒門そして太鼓門が再建されています。
However, that was not enough for the castle. Such a large and old building is needed to do continuous maintenance to keep. In the middle Meiji era, Tenshu got to lean at about six degrees due to central pillars decayed, and bats lived in it. Another savior, school head Unari Kobayashi worked hard to repair the castle. At last the castle was designated as a national treasure. In addition, other traditional gates around Tenshu such as Kuromon and Taikomon has been rebuilt these days.

太鼓門(The Taikomon)

My Impression

もし天守に入りたいのであれば、十分な時間を確保していただいた方がよいと思います。恐らく天守に入る人たちの列に並ばなければならず、1時間近くは待つことになるでしょう。ここ数年有名どころの城巡りがブームになっているからです。
I would like to say that you would better have enough time to spend if you want to get in Tenshu, as there might be a long line. It may take nearly 1 hour in line because visiting famous castles has become more popular over the last few years.

天守南西面(The southwest side of the Tenshu)

そして、もう一つお願いとしては、この城を守ることに尽力した2人の功労者に敬意を表していただきたいのです。黒門の内側に、2人の顕彰碑があるので是非ご覧ください。
And my another suggestion is to show respect to two saviors who kept the castle intact, by looking at the plaque of them that is placed inside the gate of Kuromon.

黒門(The Kuromon) taken by あけび from photo AC

How to get There

松本駅またはバスターミナルから歩いて約15分。車の場合は、城の周辺にいくつか駐車場があります。
東京から:北陸新幹線で長野駅まで行き、篠ノ井線の普通列車に乗り換えてください(電車の場合)。または新宿バスターミナルから直行高速バスに乗ってください(バスの場合)。
It takes about 15 minutes on foot from the Matsumoto train station or bus terminal. When using a car, there are few parking lots around the castle.
From Tokyo: Go to Nagano on Hokuriku shinkansen super express, transfer local train on Shinonoi line (train). Or take a direct highway bus at the Shinjuku bus terminal (bus)

Links and Refernces

国宝松本城(National treasure Matsumoto Castle)