Today, visiting the ruins of Kamaha Castle needs climbing up the mountain. There are several routes for visiting them. Probably the popular ones are from the old Banba Station on the old Nakasendo Road, because they reach the front side of the castle. You have to walk on the routes for about 1 hour, but many signs will lead you along the way. From the station, you will first go through the underpasses of Hikone44 or 43 of the Meshin Expressway. You have to open and close the front wire netting gate in order to shut animals outside it when you pass. The inside of the gate is basically the animal kingdom now. the route from Hikone44 is relatively smooth but longer, and the one from Hikone43 is shorter but comparatively steeper. The route from Hikone43 seemed to be the original Main Route.
The map around the castle
The old Banba Station on the old Nakasendo RoadA distant view of the mountain where the castle was builtThe underpass of Hikone44 of the Meshin ExpresswayThe underpass of Hikone43 of the Meshin Expressway
If you choose the route from Hikone44, the first part of your visit is completely a trek. You will go on the trail along natural valleys and ridges for over 30 minutes. The signs will show you when you are close to the castle ruins. You will also find a bear-avoiding bell that you can ring. You may not visualize there was an advanced castle where many people usually used it over such a place.
Going on the trail from the underpass of Hikone44A bear-avoiding bellGoing on a ridgeClosing to the castle ruins
Large Ditch and Stone Walls
You will first reach the Large Ditch in the northern edge of the castle. It may look like a natural valley, but, in fact, it is artificial. The enclosure behind the ditch is called the North VI.
The map around the castle
The Large DitchLooking up the North VI Enclosure from the Large Ditch
You can see the Large Stone Walls in the western side of the enclosure. These stone walls were made in a unique method which uses clay to fill in the gaps.
The Large Stone WallsThe cray between the stones can’t be seen just looking at them
Ruins of Large Turret and Entrance
Large scale earthen walls also remain on the enclosure, which supported the Large Turret in the past. A simple wooden observation platform stands there now.
The North VI EnclosureThe remaining earthen walls of the enclosureLooking down the Large Ditch from the observation platformA view from the observation platform
The next part is the North V Enclosure which has the other entrance ruins with stone steps and stone mound than those in the Main Enclosure.
The entrance ruins of the North V EnclosureWater is supplied in the enclosure from its source somewhere
After that is the North IV Enclosure has another wooden observation platform for visitors probably because it is a good viewing spot. You can enjoy a good view of the Omi Plain beside Biwa Lake.
The North IV EnclosureThe observation platform in the North IV EnclosureA view from the observation platform
Border Castle between Northern and Southern Omi Province
Kamaha Castle was a mountain castle during the Sengoku Period, which was located in Omi Provence (currently the modern day location of Shiga Prefecture). Its position was in the central area of the province, which at the time was divided into two parts, the northern part and the southern part. As a result, the two warlords from the Rokkaku Clan in the south and the warlord from the Azai Clan in the north were constantly gaining and loosing castles each other. Kamaha Castle was built on one of the ridges, which was 384 meters high, of Mt. Ryozen,. The name “Kamaha” which means “Sickle Blade” got its name from the shape of the ridge with its steep sides. The castle was located near a major road called “Nakasendo”, which was conveniently located for battle making it easier for transportation as well.
The range of Omi Province and the location of the castle
城周辺の起伏地図
In the middle of the 16th Century, during the Sengoku Period, the Hori Clan was the ruler of the castle. The clan frequently changed their masters depending on the situation. In one instance, back in 1553, the Rokkaku Clan attacked Kamaha Castle, forcing the Hori Clan to escape, eventually surrendering the castle completely. However, the Hori Clan would eventually form an allegiance with the Azai Clan, most likely because the Azai Clan was gaining a lot of power at that time. Back in 1570, The Azai Clan fought Nobunaga Oda, where Hidemura Hori sided with Nobunaga who was easily persuaded by Hideyoshi Hashiba, the eventual ruler of Japan. This was the destiny of lord of the border castle.
The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Harsh Fate of Hidemura Hiri, Lord of Castle
Since Hidemura formed an allegiance with Hideyoshi, the Azai Clan were eventually beaten. Furthermore, Hideyoshi assisted Hidemura defend Kamaha Castle from an Azai Clan attack in 1571. This resulted in Nobunaga, Hidemura and Hideyoshi capturing Odani Castle (the home base of the Azai Clan) in 1573. A year later (in 1574) shortly after the succession, Hidemura was fired by Nobunaga due to Hidemura’s senior vassal’s failures. The primary reason for this is still unknown, but perhaps we can assume that this was purely the cruelty of Nobunaga’s character. Some historians speculate that there was a power imbalance since Hidemura was getting more powerful through his allegiance with Nobunaga. It was well-known that Hidemura accumulated more territory than Hideyoshi, who at the time was Nobunaga’s important retainer. Nobunaga might have the rebellion by Hidemura, or perhaps he wanted to take the territory for him. As the famous Chinese proverb goes “When the nimble rabbit dies, the hunting dog will be cooked”, so too was the fate of Hidemura. Finally, there is a strong belief by historians that Hidemura was hired by Hideyoshi and his brother Hidenaga in the end.
The ruins of Odani CastleThe portrait of Hidenaga Toyotomi, owned by Shungakuin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Systems of Castle improved uniquely
Kamaha Castle was finally abandoned in 1575. Some historians assumed that because the castle was made of soil, and that it was inferior to other castles, that it was abandoned sooner than other castles. However, according to a more recent excavation, it was revealed that Kamaha Castle actually had an advance system compared to other mountain castles. Kamaha Castle had at least a 3-level large turret, like a Main Tower, in the northern enclosures of the castle. This turret was thought to be used by defenders who shot arrows against attackers, as well as a large ditch located in front of it. If attackers had the misfortune of getting stuck in the ditch, it would give a clear and perfect sight for the defenders. Many enclosures were surrounded by stone walls. Moreover, the main enclosure at the center of the castle had its entrance with a square space surrounded by stone walls and steps called “Koguchi”. These types of systems were seldom seen in castles that were built after Azuchi Castle which Nobunaba built back in 1579. Based on these findings, Kamaha Castle was truly more advance than Azuchi Castle.
The imaginary drawing of the large turret of Kamaha Castle, quoted from the Kamaha Castle Official SiteThe imaginary drawing of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Gifu Castle Museum
On the other hand, there were some differences between Kamaha Castle and Azuchi Castle as well. The large turret in Kamaha Castle was placed on earthen walls, and not on stone walls. These stone walls supported the earthen walls which prevented them from collapsing. In the case of Azuchi Castle, its main tower was built on stone walls directly. The Koguchi entrance of Kamaha Castle was designed for the gate of the main hall, and not for defense. Koguchi entrances built after Azuchi Castle exhibited more defensive capabilities, combined with complex routes. Historian often speculate that the systems used in Kamaha Castle had been improved uniquely, but was eventually replaced with other systems which were first seen in Azuchi Castle. However, the design of Kamaha Castle ‘s large turret might have been used for the main towers of other castles. This is because Hideoyoshi who would eventually build Osaka Castle included its main tower, must have seen the large turret when he worked with Hidemura at Kamaha Castle.
The stone walls of Kamaha CastleThe stone wall base for the Main Tower of Azuchi CastleKoguchi entrance ruins of Kamaha CastleThe Kocuchi entrance of the Kurogane-mon Gate of Azuchi Castle
A rare castle which was built and maintained on the rocky mountain
Location and History
Castle monitoring Nakasendo Road
The Nakasendo Road is known for being one of the major roads in Japan and was designated as one of the Five Major Roads in the Edo Period. In particular, the road was the most useful one when large amount of troops moved between western and eastern Japan before the period. The area of what is now Nakatsugawa City in the eastern part of Gifu Prefecture had Nakatsugawa Post Town in a basin at the center with the road going to mountain areas in the east. That’s why the warlords in the Sengoku Period wanted to own the area to monitor this important spot on the road. Naegi Castle was built on Takamori Mountain beside Kiso River which was sandwiched by the castle and the town. That meant the castle was the most suitable for monitoring what happened on Nakasendo Road.
The location of the castle
The relief map around the castle
”Nakatsugawa” from the series “Kiso-kaido Road” attributed to Hiroshige Utagawa in the Edo Period (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Toyama Clan builds and somehow maintains Castle till end
In the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period, The Toyama Clan was one of the local warlord families in the area, which was called the eastern Mino Province. It is said that the clan first built the castle in the first part of the16th Century as a branch castle of their home base, Iwamura Castle. However, the clan was affected by other larger warlords such as the Takeda and Oda Clans which also wanted to own the area. For example, both the Takeda and Oda Clans battled each other between 1572 and 1582, gaining and losing this castle.
The ruins of Iwamura CastleThe Portrait of Katsuyori Takeda, the lord of the clan at that time, owned by Koyasan Jimyoin (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, the lord of the clan at that time, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
After the declines of both, the Mori Clan, under the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi captured the castle. Tomomasa Toyama, with his father Tomotada, the lord of the castle at that time, had to escape from the castle to Ieyasu Tokugawa at Hamamatsu Castle. In 1600 when the Battle of Sekigawara occurred, Tomomasa succeeded in getting Naegi Castle back with Ieyasu’s approval. After Ieyasu established the Tokugawa Shogunate, the Toyama Clan governed the castle again as the Naegi Domain until the end of the Edo Period.
The present Hamamatsu CastleThe portrait of Tomomasa Toyama, the founder of the Naegi Domain, owned by Naegi Toyama Historical Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Castle on Rocky Mountain, Main Tower on Huge Rock
Naegi Castle had a very special location as far as permanent castles in Japan go. The mountain the castle is located on has a rocky terrain and steep cliffs. It was good for the defenders to make very difficult to attack, but if the lord of the castle wanted to develop it, there would be few spaces to do so. Generally, buildings or inter routes of castles were built on stone walls surrounding natural terrain or stone wall bases at that time. However, in the case of Naegi Castle, it was difficult to cut the rocky surface for buildings or routes. As a result, they were built on bases mixed with natural rocks and stone walls or filled valleys. Even if more buildings were needed, they were built on natural rocks directly. For example, the Main Tower of the castle was built on the huge rock on the top of the mountain.
The base of the Large Turret of Naegi Castle, which is mixed with natural rocks and stone wallsThe huge rock as the base of the Main Tower of Naegi Castle
Traditionally, when Japanese people wanted to build a building on natural rocks, they used a method called Kake-zukuri. The method is to build the foundation by combining many columns and horizontal beams like lattices on a steep rock or cliff. Buildings using this method have still been seen in some old shrines and temples like Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto. It is said the reason for using this method is that the mountains themselves, which have the rocks or cliffs, are the objects of worship. When many castles were built during the Sengoku and the first part of the Edo Period, the method was applied to castles. Naegi Castle is a good example, and another case in Sendai Castle is known.
The Main Hall of Kiyomizu-dera Temple, built using the Kake-zukuri methodThe ruins of Sendai Castle
The Naegi Domain earned only 10 thousand koku of rice which was a minimum amount for an independent lord. Because of this, their castle buildings had wood shingle roofing and wood siding or mud walls, not roof tiles and plaster walls which were too expensive for them. However, they built and maintained these buildings under such severe conditions even during the long lasting peace of the Edo Period. This was because staying there to be ready for any emergency was their most important duty.
The imaginary drawing of Naegi Castle, from the signboard at the site
