153.Kitabatake Clan Hall Part1

The lord of the Kitabatake Clan reigned at the clan’s hall, called the Taki Palace. The hall had a great Japanese garden which still remains. The group eventually became a great warlord clan in the early 16th Century.

Location and History

Southern Court Noble family becomes Warlord

Kitabatake Clan Hall was the home base of the Kitabatake Clan which governed Ise Province which is the modern day Mie Prefecture between the 14th and the 16th Centuries. The clan was a unique lord’s family who was originally a noble but finally became a warlord until they were taken over by Nobunaga Oda. Kitabatake Clan Hall was also uniquely located in the Taki area which was inconvenient but defensive so that clan was able to survive for a long time.

The range of Ise Province and the location of the castle

In the Period of Northern and Southern Courts during the 14th Century, Emperor Godaigo of the Southern Court sent his trusted vassal, Chikafusa Kitabatake to eastern Japan to govern the region. Chikafusa and his son, Akiie fought against the lords of the Northern Court, as a general. As a result, their relatives in the Tohoku Region remained as a noble birth lord family, called Namioka Palace, which lived in Namioka Castle until the late 16th Century. Similarly, Akiie’s little brother, Akiyoshi was sent to Ise Province and he was assigned as its Governor in 1338. Ise Province consisted of the eastern part facing the sea and having Ise Grand Shrine, one of the most important shrines for the Imperial family, and the western part of mountain areas having the routes to Yoshino in Yamato Province (now Nara Pref.), the home of the Southern Court.

The portrait of Emperor Godaigo, owned by Shojokoji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The statue of Akiie Kitabatake in Kitabatake Shrine
The ruins of Namioka Castle

The Kitabatake Clan in Ise Province also battled the Northern Court and eventually chose their home at a place in the defensive western part, which would be the Taki area. The area was on the way to the Ise Main Road connecting Ise Grand Shrine and Yamato Province, which was considered important. However, it was a small basin along the Yatemata River, surrounded by mountains. There were 7 entrances to the area, which were all on steep mountain passes or deep valleys. That meant the area itself was very defensive.

The relief map of the Taki area with its 7 entrances

The sitting statue of Akiyoshi Kitabatake, exhibited by Misugi Home Museum  (licensed via Wikimedia Commons)

Unfortunately, the Southern Court eventually declined and the Ashikaga Shogunate supporting the Northern Court was established. The Kitabatake Clan somehow managed to survive, however, they sometimes opposed the shogunate about how to treat the descendants of the Southern Court. The clan first built their hall in a land surrounded by the Yatemata and the other two rivers in three directions and mountains in the west. The land was leveled to three tiers, the upper one was about 3m above the middle one and surrounded by long stone walls, so it seemed that the Main Hall was built on the upper tier. These stone walls are thought as one of the earliest ones built for warriors’ halls or residences. They were piled vertically using natural oval-shaped river stones, unlike typical stone walls for castles later, piled with a slant, using processed stones.

The excavated stone walls of the upper tier

Castles are built to protest Hall

The shogunate troops sometimes attacked the territory of the Kitabatake Clan from the west. As a result, the clan started to build new castles in that direction to protect their hall. They first built the final castle for emergencies on a mountain about 80m above the hall. It had a simple main enclosure on the top and belt enclosures around with passes. The western edge of the mountain was cut by a deep ditch where only the narrow earthen bridge could be used.

The relief map around the castle

The layout of the final castle, from the signboard at the site, adding the red English letter
The ruins of the final castle

The clan also built a larger castle over the pass towards the west, called Kiriyama Castle. The castle was located on another mountain about 160m above the final castle, which was much harder to access for enemies as well as defenders. Therefore, the castle seemed to be used as a lookout usually and for being besieged in cases of emergency. As a result, the clan was able to prevent the enemies from invading the Kitabatake’s territory.

The ruins of Kiriyama Castle

Prosperity and Destruction of Kitabatake Clan

After that, the clan and the shogunate made peace with each other, which made the government of the clan in Ise Province stable. Their several branch clans, such as the Kozukuri Clan, were sent to various places of the province and the lord of the Kitabatake Clan reigned at the clan’s hall, called the Taki Palace. The hall was also expanded to have a great Japanese garden which still remains. The group eventually became a great warlord clan in the early 16th Century and its influence reached the peak in the middle of the century when the 7th lord, Tomonori Kitabatake was the lord.

The remaining Kitabatake Clan Hall Ruins Garden
The portrait of Tomonori Kitabatake, owned by Iseyoshida Library (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

However, a new threat came from Owari Province, north of Ise. Nobunaga Oda, who would later be the ruler of Japan, started to invade Ise Province in 1568. Moreover, the relative Kozukuri Clan turned supporting Nobunaga. Tomonori had to move to his home from the hall to Okochi Castle near the battle fields. The Kitabatake and Oda Clans made peace in 1569 under the terms of Nobunaga’s son, Nobukatsu being adopted as the Kitabatake Clan’s successor. This was actually the starting point of taking the Kitabatake Clan over by the Oda Clan. Tomonori was finally killed by Nobukatsu in 1576. The castles in Ise Province, including Kitabatake Clan Hall, were captured by the Oda’s troops at the same time.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Nobukatsu Oda, owned by Sokenji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Kitabatake Clan Hall Part2”

154.Tamaru Castle Part3

Tamaru Castle shows Nobukatsu’s early way of life

Features

Going to Second Enclosure

The Second Enclosure, the south of the Main Enclosure, also has both stone walls and earthen walls. The earthen walls have the alternating entrance which is very old and thought to be used as the back gate

The map around the castle

The exit of the Main Enclosure to the Second Enclosure
Going to the Second Enclosure
The Main Enclosure on the right, the Second Enclosure on the left, which is partially made of soil.
The inside of the Second Enclosure
The stone walls surrounding the Second Enclosure
The Back Gate Rins at the Second Enclosure, which are surrounded by earthen walls

In addition, you can see the private rooms for the lord, called Okushoin, which had been located in the Third Enclosure, and restored near the town hall.

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Tamaru Caste was abandoned and all the buildings of the castle were sold or demolished. The ruins have been public owned since 1928 and designated as a Prefectural Historic Site of Mie since 1953. Tamaki Town is researching the ruins to be designated as a National Historic Site in the future.

Shiroyama-Inari Shrine in the Northern Enclosure

My Impression

Before Nobukatsu was fired by Hideyoshi, he owned Owari Province which was originally the Oda Clan’s home base as the lord of the clan. Historians say his rejection to leave the province was the cause for his loss. However, I speculate Hideyoshi would have taken the province away from Nobukatsu no matter what he said like Hideyoshi had done against the Hojo Clan in Odawara Castle. Hideyoshi wanted to provide more territories to his relatives.

The present Odawara Castle

After that, Nobukatsu became a monk, changing his way of life. I think he probably stopped being a warrior. In his last territory, Obata, he was not allowed to build a castle for the small territory, contrasted by the large Rakusanen Garden. Tamaru Castle and the garden shows the transition of Nobukatsu’s way of life symbolically.

The Rakusanen Garden
The stone walls of Main Enclosure seen from the Second Enclosure in Tamaru Castle
The grave of Nobukatsu Oda in Kanra Town, Gunma Prefecture

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about 10 minutes away from Tamaki IC on the Ise Expressway. You can use the parking lot of Tamaki Town Hall.
By public transportation, it takes about 10 minutes on foot from JR Tamaru Station.
To get to Tamaru Station from Tokyo: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express, transfer to the Kansai Line at Nagoya Station and transfer to the Kisei Line at Kameyama Station.

Tamaki Town Hall

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Tamaru Castle Part1”
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154.Tamaru Castle Part2

Castle ruins coming from several periods

Features

Going through Main and Second Gates

Today, the ruins of Tamaru Castle have been maintained by Tamaki Town and still located in the center of the town. The ruins of the Main Gate behind the remaining Outer Moat are also the entrance of the ruins and the town hall. The route on the entrance is paved and straight, not like the originally bent road, probably because of convenience for cars. If you drive to the ruins, you can use the parking lot of the hall.

The map around the castle

The Outer Moat in front of the Main Gate Ruins
The Main Gate Ruins

The paved road goes up to the hill passing through the Second Gate Ruins surrounded by stone walls and the partially remaining Inner Moat. The route is still bent similar to the original one. Next comes the Third Enclosure in the past, however, the present route goes around it which is used as a school. You can see one of the few remaining buildings of the castle, the Fujimi-mon Gate, which had been sold, but moved to the present position, not like in the original one, on the way.

The partially remaining Inner Moat
The Second Gate Ruins
The Third Enclosure Ruins which is used as a school
the Fujimi-mon Gate which was moved to the present position

You can enjoy both Earthen and Stone Walls at Northern Enclosure

You can go directly to the Main Enclosure along the way but you should consider going the separate promenade around the Northern Enclosure. This is because you will be able to feel the long history of the castle when you see it. It is surrounded by old stone walls, and earthen walls outside. Earthen walls were commonly used in the Middle Ages before stone walls were used, so the earthen walls might have been built in the early stage of the castle.

The entrance of the promenade around the Northern Enclosure
Going on the promenade
The earthen walls of the Northern Enclosure outside

The stone walls also look like those of Azuchi Castle, one of the earliest examples of stone walls for castles, which Nobukatsu’s father, Nobunaga built. You might think the stone walls were built by Nobukatsu, but historians point out most of the castle’s stone walls were built by the Inaba Clan.

The stone walls of the Northern Enclosure
The combination of stone and earthen walls of the Northen Enclosure
The ruins of Azuchi Castle

Main Enclosure has several Attractions

Going back to the main route, the paved road reaches the Main Enclosure, so you can easily enter it. Its alternating entrance surrounded by stone walls, called Koguchi, which was restored in the present time based on the achievements of the excavation.

The route to the Main Enclosure
The entrance of the Main Enclosure
A view of the entrance from above the stone walls

One of the highlights of it is the stone wall base for the Main Tower. Part of it such as the stone steps were added later than the original. However, the basic type, called Anagura-siki or the Cellar Type, is a very early method for Main Tower bases. Historians say the base might have been built by Nobukatsu.

The inside of the Main Enclosure
The stone wall base for the Main Tower
The inside of the base (the Cellar Type)

The second one has a good view of the town from it. The area around the town looks rich and peaceful, probably the same as in the past. That proves the good location of the castle.

A view from the Main Enclosure

The rest is the stone walls surrounding the enclosure, you can look around. They look newer and more processed than those of the Northern Enclosures, so the Kuno Clan might repaired them.

The stone walls of the Main Enclosure
Part of the stone walls were made with two tiers

To be continued in “Tamaru Castle Part3”
Back to “Tamaru Castle Part1”