40.Yamanaka Castle Part2

A beautiful historical park, now with a view of Mt. Fuji

Features

Third Enclosure as Entrance

Now, the ruins of Yamanaka Castle have been well developed and maintained as the Yamanaka-jo Castle Park by Mishima City, though the ruins have only earthen foundation. The entrance of the ruins is alongside the old Tokaido Road, and you can park at the parking lot inside when you visit the ruins by car. The entrance was also once that of the Third Enclosure which is now the town area. So, you will walk to the center of the castle by passing through the ruins of the moats for the enclosure. Most of the moats are dried, but part of them remains as a pond called “Tajiri-no-Ike”.

The map around the castle

The entrance of the castle ruins
The dry moat of the Third Enclosure
Tajiri-no-Ike Pond

Second Enclosure as Pivot of Defense

From the pond, you have to walk up the stairs and winding slope to reach the Second Enclosure. The Second Enclosure was large and the connecting point with the center of the castle and the other parts. You can see good views of the area around, including Mt. Fuji from the enclosure. It is surrounded by high, thick earthen walls. It was the important point to protect the castle. Two more enclosures, including the North Enclosure, have been built to protect the Main Enclosure.

The slope to the Second Enclosure
The entrance of the Second Enclosure
A view from the Second Enclosure

Main Enclosure as Center of Castle

You have to walk up more and across the bridge to the center of the castle, the Main Enclosure. The bridge, which is made of half wood and half earth, looks very interesting. The part of woods could be destroyed when a battle happened. The Main Enclosure is the highest place in the castle and has two tiers. It is thought that a high turret called “Tenshu Turret” stood on the upper tier. The enclosure is surrounded by deep valleys.

The slope to the Main Enclosure
The bridge made of half wood and half earth
The ruins of Tenshu Turret at the Main Enclosure
The dry mort surrounding the Main Enclosure
The North Enclosure

Group of Western Enclosures

On the west of the Second Enclosure, there are the West Enclosure and the West Turret over another small enclosure called the former West Turret. Though they were all connected by wooden bridges in the past, we can now go to these enclosures through wooden or earthen bridges. The West Turret is also a kind of enclosures, but once had buildings for defense as the frontline of the castle. Actually, the severe battle between Hojo and Toyotomi occurred there. Many of the latticed dry moats called Une-bori and Shoji-bori remain around the West Turret and the West Enclosure. They were originally deeper and the soil was exposed. The original surfaces have been buried and planted to protect them, as a result, the moats look very beautiful like a waffle with a great view of Mt. Fuji.

The group of western enclosures
Going to the Former West Turret
The inside of the West Enclosure
A view from the West Enclosure
The West Turret
The latticed dry moat called Shoji-bori between the West Enclosure and the West Turret
the latticed dry moat called Une-bori around the West Turret

Taizaki-demaru defense strongpoint, others

Going back to the entrance of the ruins, you can also visit Taizaki-Damaru defense strongpoint to the south. This is a long and gently sloped enclosure which is also surrounded by earthen walls and Une-bori dry moats. The severe battle also occurred there, but it has a good atmosphere to walk around now. It may be a good idea to have lunch with a beautiful view of Mt. Fuji. You can also walk on the stone pavement of the old Tokaido Road below Taizaki-Dmaru. If you have time, I recommend that you visit the Sokan-ji Temple in the former Third Enclosure town area. There is the tomb of Naosue Hitotsuyanagi, a Hideyoshi’s commander, together with other tombs of Hojo’s soldiers.

Taizaki-Damaru defense strongpoint
A view from Taizaki-Damaru defense strongpoint
the latticed dry moat called Une-bori at Taizaki-Damaru defense strongpoint
A view of Mt. Fuji
The stone pavement of the old Tokaido Road
The old Tokaido Road through the Third Enclosure
The tomb of Naosue Hitotsuyanagi

To be continued in “Yamanaka Castle Part3”
Back to “Yamanaka Castle Part1”

146.諏訪原城(Suwahara Castle)

諏訪原城は短命でしたが、その役割はすこぶる戦略的でした。
Suwahara Castle had a short life, but its role was very strategic.

諏訪原城の二の曲輪中馬出し(The Central Umadashi of Ninokuruwa for Suwahara Castle)

Location and History

戦国時代、武田氏と徳川氏は、現在の静岡県西部にあたる遠江国を巡って戦いました。徳川氏は遠江国を本拠にしていましたが、武田氏はその領国を、甲斐国(現在の山梨県)と駿河国(現在の静岡県中部)から遠江に広げようとしていました。遠江には、浜松、掛川、高天神などいくつもの重要な城がありました。
In the late Civil War Period, the Tekeda clan and Tokugawa clan battled each other over Totoumi province which is now the western part of Shizuoka prefecture. Tokugawa was based in this province, while Takeda aimed to spread their territory from Kai (now Yamanashi pref.) and Suruga (now the middle of Shizuoka pref.) provinces to Totoumi. There were several important castles in Totoumi such as Hamamatsu, Kakegawa, Takatenjin and so on.

遠江国周辺の重要な城(Important castles around Totoumi Province)






武田氏は、遠江国の奥深くに位置し難攻不落として知られていた高天神城を手に入れようとしました。それは難しい命題であり、そのため武田は橋頭堡を必要としました。その橋頭堡が諏訪原城だったのです。諏訪原城は1573年に旧東海道に沿った牧之原台地の端に築かれました。その甲斐あって1574年に高天神城の奪取に成功しました。
Takeda took aim at Takatenjin castle which was located deep in the province, and known as impregnable. It was a difficult mission, so Takeda needed to make a bridgehead. That was Suwahara Castle. Suwahara Castle was built on the edge of Makinohara plateau alongside the old Tokaido Road in 1573. Thanks to their effort, Takeda was successful in taking Takatenjin castle in 1574.

諏訪原城周辺の起伏地図(A relief map around Suwahara Castle)


武田は余勢をかって、遠江の西の三河国にあった長篠城を攻撃しました。ところが、1575年5月の長篠の戦いにおいて織田・徳川連合軍に惨敗してしまいました。それ以降、武田の勢いは急激に衰え、徳川が代わって反撃を始めたのです。
Taking advantage of their momentum, they attacked Nagashino Castle located in Mikawa province on the west of Totoumi. However, they were completely beaten by the ally of the Oda clan and Tokugawa in the Battle of Nagashino in May, 1575. After that, Takeda’s influence declined rapidly, and Tokugawa started to raid back instead.

長篠合戦図屏風部分、徳川美術館蔵(Part of “Battle of Nagashino”folding screens, owned by Tokugawa Art Museum)licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons

諏訪原城は、長篠の戦いのわずか3ヶ月後、1575年8月に徳川方に占領されてしまいました。この城は今度は、まだ武田が確保していた高天神城に対する徳川の橋頭堡になったのです。徳川の粘り強い攻撃は、ついに1581年に高天神城を落とすことに成功し、それは1582年の武田氏滅亡につながりました。徳川の勝利をもって諏訪原城の役目は終わりました。この城は1590年までに廃城となり、その生涯はわずか17年足らずでした。
Suwahara Castle was taken over by Tokugawa in August, 1575, just three months after the Nagashino battle. The castle was turned into Tokugawa’s bridgehead towards Takatenjin Castle that Takeda still held. Tokugawa’s persistent attacks finally made the castle fall in 1581 that would lead to the defeat of Takeda in 1582. With the victory of Tokugawa, the role of Suwahara Castle was finished. The castle was abandoned by 1590 meaning its lifespan was less than 17 years.

高天神城遠景(A distant view of Takatenjin Castle)

Features

諏訪原城跡には土台しか残っていませんが、武田流築城法が表れていると言われています。その流儀には、背後に自然の要害を備え、三日月形の堀を持ち、丸い形の「馬出し」があるとされています。馬出しとは、防御のため出入口の前に設けられた関門のことです。これは防御のために使われるだけではなく、城の内部から外の敵に対して攻め出す目的でも使われました。
The ruins of Suwahara Castle remain only its foundation, but they are said to show Takeda’s method of building castles. It has a rear natural hazard, bow-shaped moats and round-shaped “Umadashi”. Umadashi refers to defensive gateway barriers in front of the entrance of castles. They were used not only for defense, but also for offence from inside the castle to enemies outside.

諏訪原城の「二の曲輪中馬出し」(”Ninokuruwa Central Umadashi” in Suwahara Castle)

二の丸中馬出しの航空写真(The aerial photo of Ninomaru Central Umadashi)


諏訪原城は、これらの条件に全て当てはまります。まず急崖が本曲輪の背後、北東の方向にあります。そして二の曲輪、三の曲輪といった他の曲輪が、南西すなわち高天神城の方向に向かって広がっています。また、三日月形の堀と馬出しの組み合わせがいくつもあります。
Suwahara Castle met all of the factors. A steep cliff was behind its main enclosure called Honmaru in the north east direction, and other enclosures such as Ninokuruwa and Sannokuruwa spread out in the south west direction, which headed towards Takatenjin Castle. The castle also had several sets of a bow-shaped moat and Umadashi.

城跡の地図、現地案内版に加筆(The map of the ruins, from a sign at the site adding information)
本曲輪背後の急崖(The steep cliff behind Honkuruwa)

特に、もっとも大きいものが二の曲輪の前で発掘され、復元されています(二の曲輪中馬出し)。ついでながら、最新の発掘の成果では、徳川はこの城を武田流の方法で改修したらしいのです。歴史家たちは、この結果に少し当惑しているようです。Especially, the largest one is excavated and restored in front of Ninokuruwa enclosure called “Ninokuruwa Central Umadashi”. In addition, the late excavation showed the castle was renovated by Tokugawa using Takeda’s method. Historians are still a bit puzzled by this.

馬出しと二の曲輪の間の深い溝(The deep ditch between Umadashi and Ninokuruwa)
二の曲輪から馬出しへの通路(The passage from Ninokuruwa to Umadashi)

Later Life

諏訪原城は廃城となった後、長い間放置されました。それがかえって木々や土に覆われ、保全されることになったのかもしれません。明治時代になって、この遺跡周辺の土地は旧徳川藩士によって茶畑として開拓されました。
Suwahara Castle was left as was for a long time after being abandoned. It might have been preserved covered with forests and soil. In the Meiji Era, the area around the ruins was developed into tea plantation by former Shogunate warriors.

牧之原台地の茶畑(A plantation on Makinohara plateau)

第二次世界大戦後、ある郷土史家が城跡を調査し、結果を公開しました。この後、城跡は1954年に県史跡に指定され、そして1975年には国の史跡に指定されました。
After World War II, a local historian investigated the ruins and published them. After this, the ruins were designated as a prefectural historic site in 1954, and then a national historic site in 1975.

二の丸中馬出しを違う角度から(Ninomaru Central Umadashi from a different angle)

My Impression

私が思うに、徳川が武田流を踏襲した理由は単に効率的だったからでしょう。戦国大名は、必要な時に迅速に城を築く必要がありました。敵の城を占領したとき、最も効率的な方法は、その城が使われていた通りに使うことです。改修が必要な時には、その城が作られた方法によるのが最善でしょう。同じように、必要がなくなったときには、そのまま放置すればよかったのではないでしょうか。
I think the reason for Tokugawa using Takeda’s method was just for efficiency. Warlords had to build castles as necessary and quickly as possible. When they captured an enemy’s castle, the most efficient way to use it is using it as it was. When they needed to renovate it, following the way it was created would be the best. Likewise, they could easily abandon it when they no longer needed it.

復元された二の曲輪北馬出しの門(The restored gate of Ninokuruwa North Umadashi)

How to get There

城跡に隣接する諏訪原城ビジターセンターに駐車場があります。また、もしJR金谷駅から来られる場合はちょっときついかもしれません。駅が城の崖下にあるからです。
The Suwahara Castle Visitor Center next to the ruins offers a parking lot.
Or if you try to get the ruins from JR Kanaya Station, it may be tough to get them, because the station is under the cliff.

崖下の金谷駅(Kanaya Station under the cliff)

でも、もし挑戦されるとしたら、最近復元された旧東海道の金谷坂石畳を歩くことができます。
But if you try to do it, you can walk through the Kanaya sloped stone pavement on the old Tokaido which was restored recently.

旧東海道金谷坂石畳(The Kanaya sloped stone pavement on the old Tokaido)