47.Iga-Ueno Castle Part1

The castle for protecting and attacking Osaka

Location and History

From Home of Ninja to Site for protecting Osaka

Iga-Ueno Castle was located in Iga Province which is now the western part of Mie Prefecture. Iga is probably more well known for being the home of Ninja than for the castle. Actually, before the castle was built in 1585, the province was divided among many small local lords. They gained special knowledge and techniques so that they could protect themselves. They were also often hired by larger warlords in other provinces as spies or Special Forces we now call Ninja. Unfortunately, they were conquered by Nobunaga Oda in 1581. When Nobunaga’s successor, Hideyoshi Toyotomi was organizing his unification of Japan, he sent Sadatsugu Tsutsui to the province as the lord.

The range of Iga Province and the location of the castle

The portrait of Sadatsugu Tsutsui, from a collection of Japanese poems called Giretsu-Hyakuninisshu, owned by National Institute of Japanese Literature (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Hideyoshi was based in Osaka Castle, so Iga Province was on the direct route from Osaka to eastern Japan. That’s why he sent Sadatsugu who first built Iga-Ueno Castle in 1585. Therefore, the castle was supposed to prevent enemies from attacking from the east. The three-level Main Tower of the castle was also built in the eastern part of it. Sadatsugu somehow survived when Ieyasu Tokugawa became the final ruler at the beginning of the 17th Century after Hideyoshi died. However, he was fired by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1608 due to a claim of misgovernment from his retainers. Historians speculate that the shogunate, in fact, wanted to remove Sadatsugu who was doubly loyal to both the shogunate and the Toyotomi Clan still at Osaka Castle.

Toyotomi’s Main Tower of Osaka Castle, from “The summer campaign of the siege of Osaka folding screens”, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Takatora Todo renovated Castle for attacking Osaka

Instead, the shogunate transferred Takatora Todo from Imabari Castle in Shikoku Island to Iga province. Takatora was not a hereditary feudal lord, which meant he didn’t work under Ieyasu Tokugawa, who was the founder of the shogunate, for a long time. However, he was a well-known master of castle construction through having build Uwajima, Ozu and Imabari Castles. He also helped the shogunate build its famous castles such as Edo, Nagoya, and Nijo in Kyoto. That’s why he was trusted by the shogunate. They expected Takatora to build a strong castle to stand against the Toyotomi Clan at Osaka Castle in the west. Takatora accomplished this by renovating Iga-Ueno Castle. He thought that if the shogunate were to be beaten at Osaka Castle, he could accommodate Ieyasu in Iga-Ueno Castle.

The portrait of Takatora Todo, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Uwajima Castle
Nagoya Castle

Takatora extended the Main Enclosure, the center of the castle on a hill to the west, towards Osaka Castle. He invited a guild of craftsmen called Ano-shu to build the highest stone walls (at that time) at the western side of the enclosure. It was completed- Takatora’s biography praises him, saying the stone walls were greater then those of Osaka Castle. Takatora also started to build the five-level Main Tower behind the stone walls, however, the tower collapsed due to a windstorm in 1612. The Second Enclosure was built beside the hill in the south, which was used as warriors’ housing. It had two large Main Gates in its western and eastern parts. The construction was ongoing when the battles between the shogunate and the Toyotomi Clan happened in 1614. however, it halted after the shogunate beat the Toyotomi Clan in 1615.

The high stone walls of Iga-Ueno Castle
The illustration of Hachimanyama Castle and Town, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The old photo of the Western Main Gate (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Homebase for Wartime

Takatora gave his younger brother Iga-Ueno Castle as his branch castle, and set Tsu Castle as his home base. Tsu Castle was located in a plains area near the sea in Ise Province which was another territory of his. He said that Tsu Castle would be his home base for peacetime while Iga-Ueno Castle would be the other one for wartime. After that, the senior vassals of the Todo Clan governed the castle and Iga Province in the peacetime of the Edo Period. They lived in the official residence where Sadatsugu Tsutsui originally lived. The first Main Tower, which Sadatsugu built, also remained for a while, but it is thought to have collapsed due to another windstorm in 1633 as well.

The ruins of Tsu Castle
The ruins of the official residence of Iga-Ueno Castle
The official residence area drawn in the Kanei Era of the Edo Period, exhibited by Iga-Ueno Castle

To be continued in “Iga-Ueno Castle Part2”

156.Kamaha Castle Part1

A mountain castle with advanced systems

Location and History

Border Castle between Northern and Southern Omi Province

Kamaha Castle was a mountain castle during the Sengoku Period, which was located in Omi Provence (currently the modern day location of Shiga Prefecture). Its position was in the central area of the province, which at the time was divided into two parts, the northern part and the southern part. As a result, the two warlords from the Rokkaku Clan in the south and the warlord from the Azai Clan in the north were constantly gaining and loosing castles each other. Kamaha Castle was built on one of the ridges, which was 384 meters high, of Mt. Ryozen,. The name “Kamaha” which means “Sickle Blade” got its name from the shape of the ridge with its steep sides. The castle was located near a major road called “Nakasendo”, which was conveniently located for battle making it easier for transportation as well.

The range of Omi Province and the location of the castle

城周辺の起伏地図

In the middle of the 16th Century, during the Sengoku Period, the Hori Clan was the ruler of the castle. The clan frequently changed their masters depending on the situation. In one instance, back in 1553, the Rokkaku Clan attacked Kamaha Castle, forcing the Hori Clan to escape, eventually surrendering the castle completely. However, the Hori Clan would eventually form an allegiance with the Azai Clan, most likely because the Azai Clan was gaining a lot of power at that time. Back in 1570, The Azai Clan fought Nobunaga Oda, where Hidemura Hori sided with Nobunaga who was easily persuaded by Hideyoshi Hashiba, the eventual ruler of Japan. This was the destiny of lord of the border castle.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Harsh Fate of Hidemura Hiri, Lord of Castle

Since Hidemura formed an allegiance with Hideyoshi, the Azai Clan were eventually beaten. Furthermore, Hideyoshi assisted Hidemura defend Kamaha Castle from an Azai Clan attack in 1571. This resulted in Nobunaga, Hidemura and Hideyoshi capturing Odani Castle (the home base of the Azai Clan) in 1573. A year later (in 1574) shortly after the succession, Hidemura was fired by Nobunaga due to Hidemura’s senior vassal’s failures. The primary reason for this is still unknown, but perhaps we can assume that this was purely the cruelty of Nobunaga’s character. Some historians speculate that there was a power imbalance since Hidemura was getting more powerful through his allegiance with Nobunaga. It was well-known that Hidemura accumulated more territory than Hideyoshi, who at the time was Nobunaga’s important retainer. Nobunaga might have the rebellion by Hidemura, or perhaps he wanted to take the territory for him. As the famous Chinese proverb goes “When the nimble rabbit dies, the hunting dog will be cooked”, so too was the fate of Hidemura. Finally, there is a strong belief by historians that Hidemura was hired by Hideyoshi and his brother Hidenaga in the end.

The ruins of Odani Castle
The portrait of Hidenaga Toyotomi, owned by Shungakuin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Systems of Castle improved uniquely

Kamaha Castle was finally abandoned in 1575. Some historians assumed that because the castle was made of soil, and that it was inferior to other castles, that it was abandoned sooner than other castles. However, according to a more recent excavation, it was revealed that Kamaha Castle actually had an advance system compared to other mountain castles. Kamaha Castle had at least a 3-level large turret, like a Main Tower, in the northern enclosures of the castle. This turret was thought to be used by defenders who shot arrows against attackers, as well as a large ditch located in front of it. If attackers had the misfortune of getting stuck in the ditch, it would give a clear and perfect sight for the defenders. Many enclosures were surrounded by stone walls. Moreover, the main enclosure at the center of the castle had its entrance with a square space surrounded by stone walls and steps called “Koguchi”. These types of systems were seldom seen in castles that were built after Azuchi Castle which Nobunaba built back in 1579. Based on these findings, Kamaha Castle was truly more advance than Azuchi Castle.

The imaginary drawing of the large turret of Kamaha Castle, quoted from the Kamaha Castle Official Site
The imaginary drawing of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Gifu Castle Museum

On the other hand, there were some differences between Kamaha Castle and Azuchi Castle as well. The large turret in Kamaha Castle was placed on earthen walls, and not on stone walls. These stone walls supported the earthen walls which prevented them from collapsing. In the case of Azuchi Castle, its main tower was built on stone walls directly. The Koguchi entrance of Kamaha Castle was designed for the gate of the main hall, and not for defense. Koguchi entrances built after Azuchi Castle exhibited more defensive capabilities, combined with complex routes. Historian often speculate that the systems used in Kamaha Castle had been improved uniquely, but was eventually replaced with other systems which were first seen in Azuchi Castle. However, the design of Kamaha Castle ‘s large turret might have been used for the main towers of other castles. This is because Hideoyoshi who would eventually build Osaka Castle included its main tower, must have seen the large turret when he worked with Hidemura at Kamaha Castle.

The stone walls of Kamaha Castle
The stone wall base for the Main Tower of Azuchi Castle
Koguchi entrance ruins of Kamaha Castle
The Kocuchi entrance of the Kurogane-mon Gate of Azuchi Castle

To be continued in “Kamaha Castle Part2”

50.Hikone Castle Part3

I admire the great efforts of Hikone City.

Features

Western Enclosure, Guardian of Back Side

There are many other attractions in this castle. For example, there is the Western Enclosure in the back of the Main Enclosure. It has the remaining Western Enclosure Three-level Turret to protect the back side of the castle. There is also another large, deep ditch with a bridge over it in front of the turret like the front side. This castle was protected strictly on both sides.

The aerial photo around the castle

The Western Enclosure Three-level Turret
The Large Ditch in front of the turret
The bridge over the ditch
The interior of the third floor of the turret
A view from the third floor

Extensive Original Front Side

Also consider walking around the southwest part of the castle, on the opposite of the front entrance. You will see there is still a large area surrounded by the Middle Moat and the Inner Moat. It is very comfortable to walk along the moats looking up the Main Tower. You will see the Kyobashi-guchi-mon Gate Ruins behind the Middle Moat, the Main Gate Ruins behind the Inner Moat and so on. You can also see this area had originally been the front side of the castle against the Toyotomi Clan at Osaka Castle in this direction.

The Kyobashi-guchi-mon Gate Ruins
The area surrounded by the Middle Moat and the Inner Moat
The Main Gate Ruins
The Funamachi-guchi-mon Gate Ruins, the other route over the Middle Moat
A distant view of the Western Enclosure Three-level Turret from around the Middle Moat
A distant view of the Main Tower from around the Middle Moat

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Hikone Castle was under the Japanese Army to be sold. When the Emperor Meiji visited Hikone in 1878, he felt sorry about the lost of the castle and ordered to preserve it. The castle was owned by the Imperial Household, followed by the Ii Clan and now Hikone City. In 1945 during World War II, the US Army was planning an air raid to Hikone in the evening, on August 15th just after the Emperor Showa declared the end of the war. The castle might have been saved by the emperors twice. Hikone City is trying to register the castle on the World Heritage List.

The illuminated Hikone Castle
The Large Ditch in front of the Balance Turret
The Main Tower at the Main Enclosure
The Genkyuen, the garden for the lord at the castle site

My Impression

When I visited Hikone Castle, I was very pleased to enter not only the Main Tower, but also most of the remaining turrets. It is very rare compare to other castles. I asked an officer why they allow some visitors to enter these turrets. His answer was that because they stored all of the items in the castle buildings into the Hikone Castle Museum. I understood it and was impressed by the great efforts of the city for preserving and continuing the castle into future generations.

The Balance Turret
The interior of the Balance Turret
The entrance of the Drum Gate Turret
The Western Enclosure Three-level Turret
The interior of Western Enclosure Three-level Turret
A view of the Hikone Castle Museum from the Main Enclosure

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about 10 minutes away from Hikone IC on the Meshin Expressway. There are several parking lots in the castle site.
By public transportation, it takes about 15 minutes on foot from the JR Hikone Station.
To get to Hikone Station from Tokyo: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Biwako Line at Maibara Station or Kyoto Station.

The parking lot next to the Stable

Links and References

Hikone Castle, Visit Omi

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Hikone Castle Part1”
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