195.Nobeoka Castle Part1

A castle all built using stone walls by Mototane Takahashi

Location and History

Only Castle completely built using Stone Walls in Hyuga Province

Nobeoka is an industrial city, located in the northern part of Miyazaki Prefecture which used to be called Hyuga Province. The province was very long from the north to the south and its terrain was complex with plain and mountain areas, so it was divided by many lesser lords until the end of the Edo Period, except for a short period when the Ito Clan prospered in the late 17th Century. These lesser lords lived in castles mainly built using soil from the natural terrain, such as Sadowara and Obi Castles. However, Nobeoka Castle was the only castle which was completely built using stone walls in the province by Mototane Takahashi.

The range of Hyuga Province and the location of the castle

Sadowara Castle
Obi Castle

Talented Mototane Takahashi

Mototane originally came from the Akizuki Clan, which governed part of Chikuzen Province, north of Hyuga, and he was adopted by the Takahashi Clan. When the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi, invaded the Kyushu Region in 1587 for his unification of Japan, Mototane and his parents’ clan quickly surrendered and supported Hideyoshi. Mototane was loved by Hideyoshi, which resulted in him becoming the lord of the Nobeoka area after Hideyoshi’s conquest of the region. Motonane must have made an good impression on his boss.

豊The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

In 1600, after Hideyoshi died, the East Squad, led by Ieyasu Tokugawa and the West Squad, led by Mitsunari Ishida, supporting the Toyotomi Clan, fought a decisive battle in the Sekigahara field. Mototane joined the West Squad and stayed in Ogaki Castle near the field. Once he heard that his side had been beaten, he quickly changed his sides, killed some of the lords of the West Squad, and surrendered to Ieyasu. That also resulted in his territory being maintained by the Tokugawa Shogunate, established by Ieyasu. Mototane must have had great tact.

Ogaki Castle

Very Defensive Castle built in Sandbank

After that, he started to build his new home base in 1601, which would be called Nobeoka Castle, on a hill in a sandbank which was sandwiched by the Gokasegawa and Osegawa rivers. The Main Tower, Main, Second and Third Enclosures were built on the hill from the top in a tiered form and they are all surrounded by stone walls. However, the Main Tower Enclosure actually did not have the Main Tower building. The sandbank was divided into warriors’ residences, including the castle, and townsmen area, by a moat which can be crossed over by only one bridge. Moreover, the rivers around the sandbank had no bridges at that time, which would be very defensible. If enemies somehow arrived at the Main Gate of the castle at the foot, they would need to pass 5 gates and turn 11 times to reach the top.

“The illustration of Nobeoka Castle in Hyuga Province”, exhibited by the National Diet Library Digital Collections

The greatest stone walls of the castle are the ones called “The one thousand murder stone walls” which is about 19m high. They are the third highest stone walls in the Kyushu Region, following Kumamoto and Kokura Castles. The top two castles were built by great lords under Hideyoshi Toyotomi and Ieyasu Tokugawa, such as Kiyomasa Kato and Tadaoki Hosokawa, who also had much larger territories than Mototane who was just a local lord. In addition, the stone walls were piled using natural stones which would have been impossible to pile to such height, unless an excellent stone wall guild had been invited. Mototae must have had more power and a better connection than we expect. The nickname originates from the scale of the stone walls which would collapse and kill 1,000 soldiers below the walls if the corner base stone was pulled out.

“The one thousand murder stone walls” of Nobeoka Castle

Mototane is suddenly Fired

Mototane was suddenly fired by the shogunate in 1613. He had accommodated his wife’s relative who caused a trouble in the Tsuwano Domain and escaped from it. The domain’s lord, Naomori Sakazaki was monomaniac and sued Mototane in the Shogunate Court. Though it is still uncertain if that really caused such a serious outcome, the fact is that Mototane emerged and left in a short time. His work should be studied more. Nobeoka Castle and the area around it called the Nobeoka Domain were followed by the Arima Clan, which completed the castle building some turrets in 1656. During the peaceful Edo Period, bridges were built over the rivers around the castle and the Drum Tower in the Main Tower Enclosure which announced the time to people. Luckily, no battles happened to the castle until the end of the Edo Period when the Naito Clan took over.

The portrait of Naomori Sakazaki, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Nobeoka Castle Part2”

195.延岡城 その1

高橋元種が築いた総石垣造りの城

立地と歴史

日向国唯一の総石垣造りの城

延岡は、かつては日向国と呼ばれた宮崎県の北部に位置する工業都市です。日向国は南北に長く、平地と山地が入り組んでいます。よって、17世紀後半に伊東氏が君臨していた時期を除き、江戸時代の末期まで多くの小領主によって分割されていました。これらの小領主たちは、佐土原城や飫肥城のような主に自然の地形を利用した土造りの城に住んでいました。しかし、延岡城はこの国では唯一の総石垣造りの城であり、高橋元種(たかはしもとたね)によって築かれました。

宮崎県の範囲と城の位置

佐土原城
飫肥城

才能に恵まれていた高橋元種

元種は、元は日向国の北の筑前国の一部を支配していた秋月氏の出身で、高橋氏に養子に出されました。1587年に豊臣秀吉が天下統一事業のために九州地方に侵攻したとき、元種とその出身母体の秋月氏は、秀吉に早期に降伏しその事業の手助けをしました。元種は秀吉に気に入られ、九州が平定された後、秀吉により延岡地方の領主に抜擢されました。元種は、上役に対して随分よい印象を持たれる人物だったようです。

豊臣秀吉肖像画、加納光信筆、高台寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

秀吉が亡くなった後の1600年、徳川家康に率いられた東軍と、豊臣氏を支持する石田三成に率いられた西軍が、関ヶ原において天下分け目の戦いを行います。元種は西軍に属し、関ヶ原近くの大垣城に留まっていました。元種が西軍の関ヶ原の敗戦を聞いたとき、彼は直ちに東軍に寝返り、西軍の諸将を殺害し、家康に降伏したのです。その結果、彼の領地は家康が設立した徳川幕府によって安堵されました。元種は機を見るに敏であったのです。

大垣城

砂州の上に築かれ防御力が強い城

その後、元種は延岡城と呼ばれるようになる新しい本拠地を、五ヶ瀬川(ごかせがわ)と大瀬川(おせがわ)に挟まれた砂州にある丘の上にに築きました。天守曲輪、本丸、二の丸、三の丸が階段状に築かれ、これらの曲輪は総石垣造りでした。しかし実際には、天守曲輪には天守は築かれませんでした。砂州は、城を含む武家屋敷部分と町人地に分けられ、堀によって隔てられていましたが、たった一つの橋によってつながっていました。その上、砂州を囲む川には当初は橋がかかっていませんでした。防御の観点からはとても望ましい立地だったのです。もし敵がなんとか丘の麓にある大手門にたどり着いたとしても、頂上に達するには更に5つの門を過ぎ、11回も曲がらねばなりませんでした。

「日向国延岡城絵図」、出典:国立国会図書館デジタルコレクション

城で最もすばらしい石垣は「千人殺しの石垣」と呼ばれ、高さが約19mあります。これは九州地方では、熊本城、小倉城に次ぎ、3番目の高さです。トップの2つの城は、加藤清正や細川忠興のような豊臣秀吉や徳川家康配下の大大名が築いたものであり、彼らは元種のような一地方大名よりずっと大きな領土を持っていました。またこの石垣は、自然石を用いて積まれていて、優れた石工職人の集団を招かなければ、当時はそのような高さに積むことは不可能でした。元種は、われわれば想像するよりずっと財力や中央とのコネを持っていたに違いありません。この「千人殺し」のニックネームは、石垣の規模を表していて、もし隅の基部の石を引き抜いたなら、石垣が崩れてその下にいる敵の兵士を千人も殺せるだろうという例えから来ています。

延岡城の千人殺しの石垣

元種、突然改易される

元種は1613年に突然、幕府から改易されてしまいます。彼は、津和野藩でトラブルを起こし逃亡した彼の妻の親族を、かくまっていたのです。津和野藩の藩主、坂崎直盛は偏執的で、このことを幕府に訴えたのです。たったこれだけのことで、このような深刻な結果を本当に招いたのか、今だに不確かですが、事実として元種は短い間に現れ、そして去っていったのでした。彼の業績はもっと研究されるべきでしょう。延岡城とその周りの地域は延岡藩として、有馬氏に引き継がれ、城には櫓がいくつも築かれて1656年に完成しました。平和であった江戸時代には、川と城の間に橋がかけられ、天守曲輪にあった太鼓櫓は人々に時を知らせていました。幸いにも延岡城では幕末まで戦いは起こらず、そのときには内藤氏が城と藩を治めていました。

坂崎直盛肖像画、個人蔵(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

「延岡城その2」に続きます。

57.Sasayama Castle Part3

This castle was built practically.

Features

Looking up to Stone Walls from Third Enclosure

The flat square Third Enclosure is outside of the Inner Moat and inside of the Outer Moat. If you walk around it, you will see the great stone walls of the main portion. In particular, the stone wall base for the Main Tower looks so nice, which is about 18m high, built using natural and rough processed stones, instructed by Ano-shu Group, a special stone guild at that time.

The map around the castle

The Third Enclosure
The high stone walls of the main portion seen from the Third Enclosure
The outside view of the stone wall base for the Main Tower

Two individual Umadashi systems

You can also visit the two other entrance ruins of the Eastern and Southern Gates through the enclosure. It is unfortunate that both ruins have lost their Masugata systems, however, their Umadashi systems are still intact. The system for the Eastern Gate remains as a square park, over the narrow straight path among the Inner Moat. It is surrounded by stone walls and another moat in the front and the sides, so you can easily imagine how the system worked in the past.

Going the eastern Umadashi system
The system became the Eastern Umadashi Park
The outside view of the Umadashi system

The other one for the Southern Gate also has a square space and is surrounded by earthen walls, not by stone walls. This is actually the only remaining example of the Umadashi system build only using earthen walls.

The ruins of the Southern Gate
Going to the southern Umadashi system through a narrow path
The inside of the Umadashi system
The earthen walls of the Umadashi system form the square space

If you have time, I recommend walking along the street of Okachimachi warriors’ residences with several remaining their houses which are open to the public, in the west of the castle ruins.

“The Anma Clan’s samurai residence historical museum” is one of the open warriors’ houses

My Impression

I think Sasayama Castle was quite practical for its purpose of construction. That’s why its Main Tower was actually not built. This castle was not so large as other major castles like Osaka, Nagoya and Himeji Castles, but was designed to be able to protect itself by few defenders. My first impression for the castle was that it could be a supply base. I imagine Sasayama Castle could have worked flexibly either when the Tokugawa Shogunate side would be offense or defense.

I think this Third Enclosure was able to accommodate some amount of soldiers and supplies

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about 10 minutes from Tannan-Sasayamaguchi IC on the Maizuru-Wakasa Expressway. There are several parking lots in and around the castle ruins.
By public transportation, you can take the Sinki Green bus bound for Sasayama-eigyosho from JR Sasayamaguchi Station and get off at the Nikaimachi bus stop. It takes about 5 minutes on foot to get there.
From Tokyo to Sasayamaguchi Station: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express, transfer to the Kyoto Line at Shin-Osaka Station and transfer to the Takarazuka Line at Osaka Station.

The parking lot in the Third Enclosure
The parking lot in front of the Main Gate Ruins

That’s all. Thank you.
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