14.Mito Castle Part1

Mito Castle was located in the modern day Mito City which is the capital of Ibaraki Prefecture. The castle became the home base of the Mito-Tokugawa Clan, one of the three branches of the Tokugawa Shogun family. However, the castle looked very different from those of the other branches the shogun.

Location and History

Castle is built using Natural Hazzard

Mito Castle was located in the modern day Mito City which is the capital of Ibaraki Prefecture. The castle became the home base of the Mito-Tokugawa Clan, one of the three branches of the Tokugawa Shogun family. However, the castle looked very different from those of the other branches, Nagoya and Wakayama Castles, and the shogun’s Edo Castle.

The range of Mito City and the location of the castle

It was said that the castle was first built by a local lord, the Baba Clan sometime in the early Middle Ages. It was built on a diluvium plateau sandwiched between Nakagawa River in the north and Senba Lake in the south. Its original location was defensive due to the natural hazard, so it could be easy for the lord to build the castle on it. However, it was thought that the early stage of the castle was still small probably with only the lord’s residence on the eastern edge of the plateau.

The relief map around the castle

As time passed by, the castle was followed by greater lords, the Edo and Satake Clans, and was developed larger and larger. The Satake Clan was one of the greatest warlords in the Kanto Region during the 16th Century in the Sengoku Period. The clan completed the basic structures of the castle, establishing the Main, Second and Third Enclosures in a straight line from the east to the west on the plateau. These enclosures were made of soil and divided by deep dry moats, which were typical methods for building castles at that time in eastern Japan. However, the clan was transferred to the Tohoku Region (they would build Kubota Castle there) in 1602 by Ieyasu Tokugawa, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, since they didn’t support Ieyasu in the decisive battle in 1600.

The ruins of Kubota Castle

Home Base of one of Three Tokugawa Branches

Ieyasu sent his sons to Mito Castle as it would be an important northern strongpoint to defend Edo Castle, the home base of the shogun. His youngest son, Yorifusa finally became the lord of the castle as the founder of the Mito Domain in 1609. Since then, the domain governed the castle and the area around it until the end of the Edo Period as one of the three branches of the Tokugawa Shogun family. The castle was also developed further, for example, the Main and the Second Enclosures were combined to make a new Main Enclosure, the Third Enclosure was renamed the new Second Enclosure, and the new Third Enclosure was built outside the others in the west.

The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Portrait of Yorifusa Tokugawa, owned by The Tokugawa Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The relief map around the castle

However, unlike Nagoya, Wakayama and Edo Castles other Tokugawa relatives built using advanced items, such as Main Towers and high stone walls, Mito Castle was still made of soil using conventional technologies from eastern Japan. The reason for it could be that the lords of the Mito Domain usually lived in the Main Hall near the shogun in Edo, or there was no need to improve it more after the government of the shogunate became more stable. However, the most likely reason is that Mito Castle was strong enough without stone walls.

Nagoya Castle
Wakayama Castle
The ruins of Edo Castle
The ruins of Mito Castle

Mito Domain creates Imperialism and Exclusionism

The second lord, Mitsukuni Tokugawa, known as Mito-Komon in several historical plays, promoted arts and started to edit Dainihonshi or the History of Great Japan at the Shokokan institute in Edo, which would later be moved to the Second Enclosure of Mito Castle. This activity uniquely resulted in the idea of Imperialism although the domain was a relative of the shogunate which had taken the power from the Imperial Court.

The Portrait of Mitsukuni Tokugawa, attributed to Tsunenobu Kano, owned by The Tokugawa Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of the Shokokan institute in the Second Enclosure of Mito Castle
Some copies of the History of Great Japan, exhibited by the Second Enclosure Museum

The ninth lord, Nariaki Tokugawa, during the end of the Edo Period, established the domain school called Kodokan in the Third Enclosure of the castle in order to educate the retainers and open Kairakuen Garden to all the people. While the Western foreign ships were often seen around Japan, he opposed the policy of the shogunate to open the country to foreigners. As a result, the Imperialism of the Mito Domain led many other domains’ retainers to the movement for Imperialism and Exclusionism over the country, which finally caused overthrowing the shogunate, which was later called the Meiji Restoration. However, in the domain, the retainers were divided into Tengu Party (believing the movement) and Shosei Party (supporting the shogunate), which would bring into a serious tragedy.

The Portrait of Nariaki Tokugawa, owned by Kyoto University Library (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Kodokan domain school

Sad Killing each other by Mito Domain at Mito Castle

The final version of Mito Castle was like that the largest Second Enclosure became the center of the castle. It had the Main Gate, the Main Hall (also used as the government office), the Shokokan institute, the Corner Turret, and the Three-level Turret. In particular, the Three-level Turret was built as a substitute for a Main Tower. It was about 22m tall, which was too high for a three-story building, in fact, it had five floors inside.

The miniature model of Mito Castle, exhibited by the Second Enclosure Museum (the Third Enclosure Museum on the left, the Second Enclosure in the center, and the Main Enclosure on the right)
The old photo of the Three-level Turret (licensed under Public Domain, via Wikimedia Commons)

The Tengu Party started a rebellion to ask the shogunate to stop trading with foreigners and to exclude them in 1864. In this war, the Tengu Party attacked Mito Castle the Shosei Party resided in, but failed. They eventually went west to ask Yoshinobu Hitotsubashi in Kyoto, who was a son of Nariaki and would become the last shogun, for what they wanted. However, they were arrested by Yoshinobu’s instructions and many of them were executed. The Shosei party also killed or persecuted the families in Mito of the Tengu Party. After that, the situation dramatically changed that the New Government was established and the shogunate was defeated in 1868. The survivors of the Tengu Party returned to Mito Castle and avenged against the Shosei Party. Some of the Shosei Party, who were on the run, attacked the castle the Tengu Party were resided in this time, but failed again. The strength of the castle was ironically proven by the tragedy between the retainers of the owner domain. Records say the number of the retainers was reduced from 3,449 to 892 during the internal conflict, which meant competent personnel from the domain ran out to modernize Japan.

The rebellion of the Tengu Party drawn on an Ukiyoe painting, attributed to Kuniteru Utagawa (licensed under Public Domain, via Wikimedia Commons)
The photo of Yoshinobu Hitotsubashi, by 1867 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Mito Castle Part2”

14.水戸城 その1

水戸城は、現在は茨城県の県庁所在地となっている水戸市にありました。この城は将軍家に次ぐ徳川御三家の一つ、水戸徳川家の本拠地となっていました。しかしこの城は、他の御三家や将軍の本拠地とは随分と違った外観をしていました。

立地と歴史

天然の要害を利用して築かれた城

水戸城は、現在は茨城県の県庁所在地となっている水戸市にありました。この城は将軍家に次ぐ徳川御三家の一つ、水戸徳川家の本拠地となっていました。しかし、この城は他の御三家の本拠地、名古屋城、和歌山城と、将軍がいた江戸城とは随分と違った外観をしていました。

水戸市の範囲と城の位置

水戸城は、中世初期のある時期に地元領主の馬場氏が最初に築いたと言われています。城は、北にある那珂川と南にある千波湖に挟まれた洪積層の台地上に築かれました。このような天然の要害の地は、もともと高い防御力があるために、領主にとってここに城を築くのは必然かつ容易であったと思われます。しかし、この城の初期段階においてはその規模は小さく、台地の端の方に領主の館があった程度だと考えられています。

城周辺の起伏地図

時が経ち、水戸城はより有力な領主である江戸氏や佐竹氏に奪取されました。そして大規模な城に拡張されていきました。佐竹氏は戦国時代の16世紀の時点で、関東地方では最も有力な戦国大名の一つでした。佐竹氏は、台地の東側から西側に向かって、本丸、二の丸、三の丸を一直線に並べ、城の基本的構造を完成させました。これらの曲輪は土造りで空堀によって隔てられていて、これは当時の東日本においては典型的な城づくりの方法でした。ところが佐竹氏は、1602年に徳川幕府の創始者である徳川家康によって、東北地方に転封となってしまいました(その地で久保田城を築城します)。1600年の天下分け目の戦いにおいて家康に味方しなかったからとされています。

久保田城跡、ここも基本的に土造りの城です

徳川御三家の本拠地となる

家康は、水戸城に彼の子息たちを送り込みました(武田信吉や徳川頼宜)。将軍の本拠地、江戸城の北方の重要な防衛拠点となったためです。最終的には家康の末子である頼房が、1609年に水戸藩の初代藩主として水戸城主となりました。それ以来、水戸藩が御三家の一つとして、江戸時代末期まで城とその周辺地を統治しました。水戸城もより整備が進みました。例えば、それまでの本丸、二の丸、三の丸がそれぞれ新たに、下の丸、本丸、二の丸となりました。そして新たに三の丸が西側の方に設置されました。

徳川家康肖像画、加納探幽筆、大阪城天守閣蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
徳川家康肖像画、徳川ミュージアム蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

城周辺の起伏地図

しかし、他の徳川各家が天守や高石垣など卓越した土木建築技術を擁して築いた名古屋城和歌山城江戸城とはちがって、水戸城はまだ土造りのままで、東日本の従来からの技術を使っていました。その理由として考えられるのは、水戸藩の藩主が通常、江戸の将軍の近くの御殿に住んでいたということです。または、幕府の統治が安定してきて、城をこれ以上改修する必要がなかったこともあるでしょう。しかし、もっともあり得そうな理由は水戸城は石垣がなくても十分強力だったということです。

名古屋城
和歌山城
江戸城跡
水戸城跡

尊王攘夷思想を生み出す

時代劇で「水戸黄門」として知られる2代目の藩主、徳川光圀は学芸を振興し、江戸の彰考館において「大日本史」の編纂を始めました。彰考館は後に水戸城の二の丸にも作られました。この活動は面白いことに、水戸藩は朝廷から権力を奪った幕府の親族であるにも関わらず、尊王思想(天皇が正当な権力であるとする思想)を生み出します。

徳川光圀肖像画、加納常信筆、水戸徳川博物館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
水戸城二の丸の彰考館跡
二の丸展示館にある「大日本史」

江戸時代末期の9代目の藩主、徳川斉昭は城の三の丸に藩校の弘道館を設立し藩士の教育に力を注ぎ、また偕楽園を築き全ての領民に対して開放しました。その当時は西欧の船が日本近海に出没していて、斉昭は幕府の開国方針に反発していました。その結果、水戸藩の尊王思想は多くの他藩の志士たちを全国的な尊王攘夷運動に導いたのです。それは最終的には幕府の支配を覆し、明治維新に至ることになりました。しかし肝心の水戸藩においては、藩士たちは尊王攘夷を支持する天狗党と、幕府を支持する諸生党に分裂し、深刻な対立と悲劇的な結末をもたらしました。

徳川斉昭画、京都大学付属図書館 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
弘道館

水戸城での悲しい同士討ち

水戸城の最終形は、もっとも大きい二の丸が城の中心地となりました。そこには、大手門、御殿(政庁の機能も果たしていました)、彰考館、角櫓、そして三階櫓(さんがいろ)がありました。特に、三階櫓は天守の代替として築かれたものです。この櫓は高さが22mもあり、三階建てとしては随分高いものです。実はその内部は5階建てになっていました。

二の丸展示館にある水戸城の模型(左が三の丸、真ん中が二の丸、右が本丸と下の丸)
三階櫓の古写真 (licensed under Public Domain, via Wikimedia Commons)

天狗党は1864年に、幕府に対して反乱を起こし、海外との貿易を止め、外国人を追放するよう要求しました。天狗党は当初、民衆に略奪暴行を働く者がいて支持を失い、幕府の追討軍や諸生党に追い詰められました。そこから天狗党は西へ向かい、斉昭の息子で後に最後の将軍となる一橋慶喜に彼らの主張を訴えようとしました。しかし、慶喜の決定により拘束され、その多くは処刑されてしまいました。諸生党の面々はこれに乗じ、水戸に残った天狗党の家族をも処刑または弾圧を加えました。ところが、状況は劇的に変わり、1868年に幕府は崩壊し、新政府が設立されました。天狗党の生き残りは水戸城に戻り、今度は諸生党に対する復讐を始めたのです。そこから逃れた諸生党の一部は、天狗党が籠る水戸城を攻撃しましたが、失敗しました。この城の強靭さは、皮肉にもこの城を持つ藩士たちの間で生じた悲劇によって証明されてしまったのです。残っている資料によれば、水戸藩の藩士の数はこの内紛の間に3,449名から892名に減少しました。日本の近代化を主導する人材がこの藩からほぼいなくなってしまったのです。

天狗党の乱を描いた「近世史略 武田耕雲斎 筑波山之圖」、豊原国輝作 (licensed under Public Domain, via Wikimedia Commons)
徳川慶喜写真、1967年以前(一橋慶喜と名乗っていた禁裏守衛総督時代) (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

「水戸城その2」に続きます。

今回の内容を趣向を変えて、Youtube にも投稿しました。よろしかったらご覧ください。

192.Tsunomure Castle Part3

There are many stones lying on the Main Enclosure. This is because officials are repairing the stone walls of the enclosure, which Takamasa Mori built.

Features

Is Main Enclosure being improved?

However, the Main Enclosure on the top looks different. Around the Main Enclosure there are no stone walls, but it has the Vertical Cliffs which were artificially cut, made of soil. This method had also been used in the castle before Takamasa Mori came. You will walk around the natural-like path to the enclosure (the straight path for the repair work to it should not be used).

The map around the castle

The Vertical Cliffs around the Main Enclosure
The straight path for the repair work to the Main Enclosure
The path to the Main Enclosure going around the mountain

There is the observation platform on the way, where you can enjoy a great view of the Kusu area with lots of mesas or buttes, which look very beautiful.

The observation platform
The wonderful view of Kusu area

When you arrive at the top of the Main Enclosure, you will see many stones lying on it (as of May of 2023). This is because Takamasa built stone walls only at northern side of the enclosure. The official are repairing them after they collapsed. Maybe Takamasa was also improving the Main Enclosure until he was transferred.

The entrance of the Main Enclosure
The inside of the enclosure
The stones for the stone walls being repaired

Attractions of Mori Domain

You can also visit the attractions of the Mori Domain which the Kurushima Clan established at the foot of the mountain. The lords of the domain lived in an encampment which was turned into a park. The clan also built a pond garden with a circular promenade beside a hill next to the encampment, which remains now.

The pond garden the Kurushima Clan created

There is a 7m tall monolith standing in front of the garden, called Dowa-hi or the Monument of Fairy Tales. This was not originally part of the encampment, but it was originally used as a stone for the harbor at a river nearby when the domain was thriving. The monolith was moved to the current position and reused as the monument in 1949, named after a famous writer of fairy tales, Takehiko Kurushima who was a descendant of the lord’s family.

The monument in front of the garden

The clan also built a tea room on stone walls, called Seihoro, on the hill, which also remains. It is said that the room was built as a substitute for a Main Tower which was not allowed to be built by the lord of the clan.

The Seihoro tea room (licensed by ムカイ via Wikimedia Commons)

Later History

The research of Tsunomure Castle was launched in 1993. It found that the ruins still have an example of the Ano-zumi stone walls in a good condition, which Hideyoshi’s retainers built in many areas during his unification of Japan. It also found that the ruins show the process of castles’ improvement from the Middle Ages to the Edo Period. As a result, the ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 2005. Kusu Town promoted itself as the hometown of fairy tales and having a castle with the Ano-zumi stone walls.

The Ano-zumi stone walls of Tsunomure Castle

My Impression

When I visited the Kusu Area, I felt the area has a very unique atmosphere because it is surrounded by mountains, and the small mountains or hills inside are a little strange, which I would learn are called mesas or buttes. These natural features of the area created folk tales about its history, so the town’s nick name, the hometown of fairy tales may be related to them. Tsunomure Castle also came from the area’s features and people from the outside made it more unique. I recommend visiting the Kusu area and Tsunomure Castle Ruins if you travel around there.

The stone walls of the Third Enclosure of Tsunomure Castle

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a few minutes drive away from Kusu IC on the Oita Expressway. There are several parking lots around the ruins (in the Third Enclosure on the mountain or in the park at the foot of the mountain…).
By public transportation, take the Oita-Kotsu bus bound for Kajiwara from JR Bungomori Station and get off at the Kami-Fushihara bus stop at the foot of the mountain. You can climb the trail to the top from there.
From Tokyo or Osaka to the Station: it may be better to rent a car from Oita Airport or Fukuoka Airport after using a plane.

That’s all. Thank you.
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