その後～Later History – ページ 4 – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

173.Nitakayama Castle Part3

After Nitakayama Castle was abandoned, its ruins were used as a place for the practices of the mountain priests. That’s why there are stone buddha statues and monuments they built on the top of the mountain.

Features

Unique Final Enclosure

Tsume-no-maru (meaning the final enclosure) is next to the main enclosure to the southeast. It is also the top of the mountain, where you can enjoy great views of the surrounding area, such as Takayama Castle Ruins, Nuta River, and even Seto Inland Sea. It is also a more interesting place than only the top area. It is the rockiest and steepest area of this mountain. Furthermore, it has lots of stone buddha statues and monuments which mountain priests built. That’s why this site has become unique.

The map around the castle

A view of the Nuta River towards the Seto Inland Sea from the top

Well Enclosure, Lifeline of Castle

Tsurii-no-dan (meaning the well enclosure) is next to the main enclosure to the north. You can go there from the back gate of the main enclosure by walking down another Masugata system. This Masugata is different. It is called the inter type which is highly improved than that of the main gate (the outer type). It also still has clearly remaining earthen walls which form its square shape.

The ruins of the back gate of the main enclosure

The Masugata system of the back gate, seen from its side

Tsurii-no-dan Enclosure is lower than others, like a valley, which still has six large well ruins. It was very important for the castle not only to be besieged for a long time, but also to be able to live in.

One of the six well ruins in the enclosure

Later History

After Nitakayama Castle was abandoned, its ruins were used as a place for the practices of the mountain priests. That’s why you saw the stone buddha statues and monuments on the top they built. They also built chain fields on the steepest route to the top which experienced climbers still use today. However, general visitors shouldn’t use it. As for the castle ruins, they were designated as National Historic Sites with Mihara and Takayama Castles in 1957.

The top area of Nitakayama Mountain, looking very steep

My Impression

Mihara Castle was the final castle of Takakage Kobayakawa. However, I’m not quite sure what the castle looked like when he lived there because it was greatly improved by Fukushima and Asano Clans after Takakage died. Therefore, we can’t find how and where the huge stones from Nitakayama Castle were used in Mihara Castle. That means the ruins of Nitakayama Castle are valuable to see the legacies of Takakage’s period. As for myself, I would like to visit the ruins of Takayama Castle next to Nitakayama Castle someday.

A picture of Mihara Castle, drawn on the wall of Mihara Station

*The part of the Main Tower base of Mihara Castle, which was built by Takakage Kobayakawa*

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 4km drive away from Hongo IC on the Sanyo Expressway. There is a parking lot for visitors near the entrance of the hiking course.

By public transportation, it takes about 25 minutes on foot from JR Hongo Station.
After you get out of the station, turn right and go along the street in front of the station. Then, turn left at the first intersection, and the street leads to a bridge over the Nuta River while it follows a winding road. It may be better for you to walk the sidewalk on the left because the next intersection has a crosswalk only on this side.

Go along the street in front of the station

Walk the sidewalk on the left after turning left

If you walk across it, you will go on the bridge seeing a good view of Nitakayama and Takayama Mountains on the right. After that, turn right, go across another crosswalk and go on a path on the bank beside the river towards the mountains. This path will split into two, but eventually they will meet in front of a shrine. You will eventually arrive at the entrance of the hiking course.

Nitakayama Mountain on the left and Takayama Mountain on the right, seen from the bridge

Arriving at the starting point to the castle ruins

From Tokyo or Osaka to the station: get Sanyo Shinkansen bullet train and transfer to the Sanyo Line at Mihara Station.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Nitakayama Castle Part1”
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173.新高山城　その３

新高山城が廃城となった後、城跡は山伏たちの修業の場として使われました。そのため、山の頂上には彼らが作ったたくさんの仏像や石碑があります。

特徴、見どころ

ユニークな詰の丸

詰の丸は、本丸のとなり、南西方向にあります。ここは山頂に当たります。ここからは、高山城跡、沼田川、そして（天気がよければ）瀬戸内海までも見渡す素晴らしい景色を堪能できます。それにここは単に一番高いという以上に興味を惹かれる場所で、最も岩がゴツゴツしていて険しい所でもあります。更には、ここには修験道の山伏たちによって作られた数多くの仏像や題目碑があります。これらがここをとてもユニークな場所にしています。

城周辺の地図

城の生命線、釣井の段

釣井（つりい）の段も本丸のとなり、北方向にある曲輪です。ここに行くには、もう一つの桝形を下って、本丸の搦手門跡から出ていきます。この桝形は、先ほどの大手門跡にあった方（外桝形）とはタイプが違っていて、内桝形に分類されます。内桝形の方が、より進化したタイプとなります。その四角い形が土塁によって形作られていて、今でもはっきりと確認することができます。

釣井の段は、他の曲輪よりも低い位置にあり、谷間のような感じです。ここには大きな井戸跡が６つも残っています。この曲輪は、長い籠城戦に耐えるためだけではなく、日常的に城内で生活するためにもとても重要な場所でした。

その後

新高山城が廃城となった後、城跡は山伏たちの修業の場として使われました。そのために、山の頂上に彼らが作った仏像や石碑があったのです。山伏たちはまた、頂上に向かうための最も険しいルートに鎖場を設けました。そしてそれは、熟練の登山家が今でも利用しているそうですが、普通のビジターが通れるようなところではありません。城跡そのものに関しては、1957年に三原城、高山城とともに国の史跡に指定されました。

私の感想

三原城は、小早川隆景の終の棲家となりました。しかし、その時城がどんな姿をしていたかはわかっていません。隆景の死後、福島氏や浅野氏によって大拡張が行われたからです。そのため、新高山城から持ち込まれた大石が三原城でどのように使われたのかもわからないのです。つまり、新高山城跡というのは、隆景の時代の遺産として大変貴重なものなのです。私に関して言えば、いつか新高山城に続いて、高山城跡を訪れてみたいと思っています。

ここに行くには

車で行く場合：山陽自動車道の本郷ICから約４ｋｍのところにあります。ハイキングコースの入口近くにビジター用の駐車場があります。

公共交通機関を使う場合は、ＪＲ本郷駅から歩いて約２５分かかります。
駅から出た後は、右に曲がって駅の前の通りに沿って進んでください。そして、最初の交差点を左に曲がります。曲がっていく道に沿っていくと、沼田川を渡る橋に至ります。この交差点には左側にしか横断歩道がないので、あらかじめ左側の歩道を歩いておいた方がいいです。

横断歩道を渡ると、右側に新高山と高山の景色を見ながら橋を渡ります。渡り終わったら右に曲がって再び横断歩道を渡り、山に向かって川の土手の上を通る道を進みます。道は二手に分かれますが、どちらを歩いても神社の手間で合流します。そうするうちに、ハイキングコース（大手道）の入口に到着します。

東京または大阪から本郷駅まで：山陽新幹線に乗って、三原駅で山陽本線に乗り換えてください。

リンク、参考情報

・本郷町観光協会（ホームページ）
・「小早川隆景のすべて」新人物往来社編
・「備陽史探訪の会　早春の沼田本郷に小早川氏の夢を訪ねる」

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「新高山城その１」に戻ります。
「新高山城その２」に戻ります。

13.Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part2

the ruins of the castle were turned into a park. Officials changed their policy for developing the ruins because the detailed drawings of the castle buildings were left by Sadanobu Matsudaira. They were wondering if the castle would be restored to its original condition. That would be the first attempt in the way large castle buildings are rebuilt in the present time of Japan.

Later History

During the Meiji Era, the ruins of the castle were turned into a park in which the baseball stadium was constructed in during the Showa Era. Officials changed their policy for developing the ruins because a lot of citizens complained and the detailed drawings of the castle buildings were left by Sadanobu Matsudaira. They were wondering if the castle would be restored to its original condition. That would be the first attempt in the way large castle buildings are rebuilt in the present time of Japan.

The aerial photo around the castle during the 1970’s

The detailed drawing of the three-level turret Sadanobu Matsudaira left

However, there was a big problem with the law. Japan’s Building Standard Act has very strict restrictions on wooden buildings which are over 13m tall. According to this law, new large old-style wooden buildings like the Shirakawa-Komine castle turret are not allowed to be built. So officials continued the restoration of the turret not as a building, but as a structure that would be allowed by the law. It was finally completed in 1991. However, another problem occurred as the government made the most part of the turret inaccessible to visitors, because it was not “a building”. At last, the law had the provisions to be exempt for historical buildings in 1993. The three story-level was finally opened to visitors.

Features

Castle Ruins still look Strong

Today, if you stand in front of the ruins of Shirakawa-Komine Castle, called Shiroyama Park, you will be impressed by its wide remaining stone walls and the slim restored three-level turret on the top. The entrance of the park was that of the second enclosure, which had Taiko (drum)-mon Gate. The enclosure has become an open space where people can enjoy relaxing and exercising. It is also partially used by public facilities such as Komine-jo(castle) History Museum and a tea house.

The aerial photo around the castle

The entrance of the second enclosure (the ruins of Taiko-mon Gate

The appearance around the second enclosure in the past, from the miniature model of the castle, exhibited by *Komine-jo Castle History Museum*

The main portion of the castle ahead still looks very strong, which is surrounded by the inner moat and two-tiered high stone walls. These tiers consist of the main enclosure on the top and the surrounding Take (bamboo)-no-maru Enclosure. You need to go across the earthen bridge over the moat and the ruins of Shimizu(pure water or spring)-mon Gate to enter it. The gate was the largest one in the castle and Shirakawa City is actually planning to restore it by 2026 (as of January 2024). Next, if you climb the stone steps and turn right on the Take-no-maru Enclosure, you will see the three-level turret close by.

*The appearance around the Shimizu-mon Gate and the Take-no-maru enclosure in the past, from the miniature model of the castle, exhibited by Komine-jo Castle History Museum*

Good Combination of restored Turret and Gate

You can also see Mae-gomon (meaning the front gate) next to the turret which has been restored in the original way since 2004, following the turret. The set of the turret and the gate looks very good and shows the authority of the castle. If you enter the gate, you will be at the main enclosure, which is an empty space but had the main hall for the lord in the past.

The three-level turret (in the back) and the Mae-gomon Gate (in the front), seen from the Take-no-maru Enclosure

The ruins of the main hall of the main enclosure

*The appearance around the main hall in the past, from the miniature model of the castle, exhibited by Komine-jo Castle History Museum*

The three-level turret stands on the northeastern corner of the enclosure. Its three floors are simply built with the 11.7meters (6 Ken in the traditional Japanese unit of length) square of fist floor, the 7.8 meters (4 Ken) square of the second one and the 3.9 meters (2 Ken) square of the top one. Each level also has simple roofing and has two-tones of colored walls from white plaster and black-painted lumber. Overall, the tower looks very beautiful with its good design and color arrangement.

The three-level turret, seen from the inside of the main enclosure

Interior of Turret is completely restored as well

You can enter the turret from the inside of the enclosure. From the processes of restoring this turret, officials always stay inside and monitor the safety of the visitors. For example, only five visitors can stay above the first floor at the same time under the current regulations. That’s because the turret was restored exactly in the same way as the original one except for the minimum safety equipment and explanation boards. If you walk around the first floor, you will find that it is not bright and many columns standing inside. Some of the columns came from pine trees of Inari Mountain, one of the hills where the severe battles occurred in 1868 during the Boshin War. That’s why you can see the bullet marks, caused by the war, on one of them.

the bullet marks on the column of the first floor

You can also see the defense systems like machicolations, loopholes and bay windows at the northern and eastern sides of the floor. These sides face the outsides of the enclosure, which could have been attacked by enemies.

A machicolation built in the first floor

The loopholes built in the first floor (the black square ones)

If you want to go to the second and third floors, please be careful when climbing the very steep stairways, but you can use the handrails and ropes.

As you go above, the floor becomes smaller and you may feel you are in a box on the top floor. The floor also has defense systems similar to other floors, where you can understand the turret is very practical for battles. In addition, you can see views of the outside through the lattice windows of the floor.

To be continued in “Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part3”
Back to “Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part1”