その後～Later History – ページ 4 – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

13.Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part2

the ruins of the castle were turned into a park. Officials changed their policy for developing the ruins because the detailed drawings of the castle buildings were left by Sadanobu Matsudaira. They were wondering if the castle would be restored to its original condition. That would be the first attempt in the way large castle buildings are rebuilt in the present time of Japan.

Later History

During the Meiji Era, the ruins of the castle were turned into a park in which the baseball stadium was constructed in during the Showa Era. Officials changed their policy for developing the ruins because a lot of citizens complained and the detailed drawings of the castle buildings were left by Sadanobu Matsudaira. They were wondering if the castle would be restored to its original condition. That would be the first attempt in the way large castle buildings are rebuilt in the present time of Japan.

The aerial photo around the castle during the 1970’s

The detailed drawing of the three-level turret Sadanobu Matsudaira left

However, there was a big problem with the law. Japan’s Building Standard Act has very strict restrictions on wooden buildings which are over 13m tall. According to this law, new large old-style wooden buildings like the Shirakawa-Komine castle turret are not allowed to be built. So officials continued the restoration of the turret not as a building, but as a structure that would be allowed by the law. It was finally completed in 1991. However, another problem occurred as the government made the most part of the turret inaccessible to visitors, because it was not “a building”. At last, the law had the provisions to be exempt for historical buildings in 1993. The three story-level was finally opened to visitors.

Features

Castle Ruins still look Strong

Today, if you stand in front of the ruins of Shirakawa-Komine Castle, called Shiroyama Park, you will be impressed by its wide remaining stone walls and the slim restored three-level turret on the top. The entrance of the park was that of the second enclosure, which had Taiko (drum)-mon Gate. The enclosure has become an open space where people can enjoy relaxing and exercising. It is also partially used by public facilities such as Komine-jo(castle) History Museum and a tea house.

The aerial photo around the castle

The entrance of the second enclosure (the ruins of Taiko-mon Gate

The appearance around the second enclosure in the past, from the miniature model of the castle, exhibited by *Komine-jo Castle History Museum*

The main portion of the castle ahead still looks very strong, which is surrounded by the inner moat and two-tiered high stone walls. These tiers consist of the main enclosure on the top and the surrounding Take (bamboo)-no-maru Enclosure. You need to go across the earthen bridge over the moat and the ruins of Shimizu(pure water or spring)-mon Gate to enter it. The gate was the largest one in the castle and Shirakawa City is actually planning to restore it by 2026 (as of January 2024). Next, if you climb the stone steps and turn right on the Take-no-maru Enclosure, you will see the three-level turret close by.

*The appearance around the Shimizu-mon Gate and the Take-no-maru enclosure in the past, from the miniature model of the castle, exhibited by Komine-jo Castle History Museum*

Good Combination of restored Turret and Gate

You can also see Mae-gomon (meaning the front gate) next to the turret which has been restored in the original way since 2004, following the turret. The set of the turret and the gate looks very good and shows the authority of the castle. If you enter the gate, you will be at the main enclosure, which is an empty space but had the main hall for the lord in the past.

The three-level turret (in the back) and the Mae-gomon Gate (in the front), seen from the Take-no-maru Enclosure

The ruins of the main hall of the main enclosure

*The appearance around the main hall in the past, from the miniature model of the castle, exhibited by Komine-jo Castle History Museum*

The three-level turret stands on the northeastern corner of the enclosure. Its three floors are simply built with the 11.7meters (6 Ken in the traditional Japanese unit of length) square of fist floor, the 7.8 meters (4 Ken) square of the second one and the 3.9 meters (2 Ken) square of the top one. Each level also has simple roofing and has two-tones of colored walls from white plaster and black-painted lumber. Overall, the tower looks very beautiful with its good design and color arrangement.

The three-level turret, seen from the inside of the main enclosure

Interior of Turret is completely restored as well

You can enter the turret from the inside of the enclosure. From the processes of restoring this turret, officials always stay inside and monitor the safety of the visitors. For example, only five visitors can stay above the first floor at the same time under the current regulations. That’s because the turret was restored exactly in the same way as the original one except for the minimum safety equipment and explanation boards. If you walk around the first floor, you will find that it is not bright and many columns standing inside. Some of the columns came from pine trees of Inari Mountain, one of the hills where the severe battles occurred in 1868 during the Boshin War. That’s why you can see the bullet marks, caused by the war, on one of them.

the bullet marks on the column of the first floor

You can also see the defense systems like machicolations, loopholes and bay windows at the northern and eastern sides of the floor. These sides face the outsides of the enclosure, which could have been attacked by enemies.

A machicolation built in the first floor

The loopholes built in the first floor (the black square ones)

If you want to go to the second and third floors, please be careful when climbing the very steep stairways, but you can use the handrails and ropes.

As you go above, the floor becomes smaller and you may feel you are in a box on the top floor. The floor also has defense systems similar to other floors, where you can understand the turret is very practical for battles. In addition, you can see views of the outside through the lattice windows of the floor.

To be continued in “Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part3”
Back to “Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part1”

13.白河小峰城　その２

城跡は公園となりましたがその後、城跡整備の方針は変更されることになりました。松平定信により城建物の詳細図面が残されていたからです。城を元通りの姿に戻せないか検討が始まったのです。これは現代の日本において、城の大型の建物を元通りに再建する最初の試みでした。

その後

明治時代には城跡は公園となり、昭和時代には野球場が建設されたりしました。しかしその後、城跡整備の方針は変更されることになりました。市民から多くの要望があり、また松平定信により城建物の詳細図面が残されていたからです。城を元通りの姿に戻せないか検討が始まったのです。これは現代の日本において、城の大型の建物を元通りに再建する最初の試みでした。

１９７０年代の城周辺の航空写真

ところが、これには法律上の大きな問題がありました。日本の建築基準法は、１３ｍを超える高さの木造建築物に厳しい規制を課していたのです。この法律によれば、白河小峰城三重櫓のような大型の古い形式の木造建築物を、新しく作ることはできませんでした。そのため、この櫓は建築物としてではなく、工作物として復元作業が続けられました。この扱いであれば、法律の許容内でした。そしてついに1991年に完成となりました。しかし、また新たな問題が発生します。政府当局が、櫓のほとんどの部分にビジターを入れてはいけないと言ってきたのです。「建築物ではないから」が、その理由でした。最終的には1993年に、歴史的建造物に対する例外規定ができたことで、三重櫓は全面的にビジターに公開されることになりました。

特徴、見どころ

今でも威厳のある城跡

現在、城山公園と呼ばれる白河小峰城跡の前に立ってみると、今でも広大に城を覆っている石垣群の上に、スリムに復元された三重櫓が乗っかっていて、とても印象的です。公園の正面入口は、かつては二の丸入口で、そこには太鼓門がありました。二の丸は今では広場になっていて、くつろいだり、運動したりすることができます。敷地の一部には、小峰城歴史館、二の丸茶室などの公共施設があります。

城周辺の航空写真

その先にある城の主要部分は、今でも内堀と二段の石垣に囲まれていて、とても強そうに見えます。この二段の構えは、上の方にある本丸を下の方の竹の丸・帯曲輪が囲んでいる形になっています。主要部分に入るには、堀を渡る土橋と清水門跡を進んでいく必要があります。この門は城では最大の門でした。実は白河市は2026年までにこの門を復元する予定でいます（2024年3月時点の情報）。次に右に曲がって石段を登っていくと竹の丸に至りますが、そこでは三重櫓が間近に迫って見えます。

復元された櫓と門のコンビネーション

三重櫓のとなりには、櫓に続き2004年にオリジナルと同様に復元された前御門も見えます。この櫓と門の取り合わせはとても見栄えがして、城の権威をも高めています。門を入っていくと本丸となります。今は広場となっていますが、かつては城主のための御殿がありました。

三重櫓は本丸の北西隅に立っています。その構成はシンプルに正方形の３フロアを積み上げていて、１辺１１．７ｍ（６間四方）の一階、１辺７．８ｍ（４間四方）の二階、そして一辺３．９ｍ（２間四方）の三階から成っています。それぞれの階には簡素な屋根が付き、壁は白い漆喰と黒い板壁の２色構成です。そのシンプルさがかえって櫓を美しく見せています。

外も内も元通りに復元された三重櫓

櫓には本丸の内側から入っていきます。この櫓を復元したときの経緯もあって、係員が櫓の内部に常駐していて、ビジターの安全を常にチェックしています。例えば、規定によって一階から上には同時に5人のビジターしか入れないことになっています。この櫓が、最小限の安全設備と説明板を除き、オリジナルのものと全く同様に復元されているからです。一階を歩いてみると、中はあまり明るくなく、柱が多く立っていることに気付かれるでしょう。その柱には、1868年の戊辰戦争のときに激戦地となった稲荷山の松の木が使われています。そこには、戦争のときに生じた弾痕を見ることができます。

また一階の北側と東側には石落とし、狭間、格子窓といった防御システムがあります。この両サイドは本丸の外側を向いていて、敵の攻撃を受ける可能性がありました。

二階と三階に上がるときには、とても急な階段を登ることになるので気を付けて下さい。但し、復元のときに付けられた手すりとロープを使うことができます。

上の階に行くに従い、フロアは狭くなり、最上階ではまるで箱の中にいるようです。この階にもまた他の階と同じような防御システムがあります。この櫓は実戦的に作られたということがわかると思います。格子窓を通じてということにはなりますが、外の景色を見ることもできます。

「白河小峰城その３」に続きます。
「白河小峰城その１」に戻ります。

今回の内容を趣向を変えて、Youtube にも投稿しました。よろしかったらご覧ください。

29.Matsumoto Castle Part3

There are defense systems along the passage of the first floor of the Main Tower- machicolations, loopholes (for guns and arrows), and lattice windows. For instance, as many as 117 loopholes were built in this tower. They are the genuine article!

Features

Supporting Systems of Main Tower

You can enter the tower after entering the main enclosure through Kuro-mon (the black gate). It weighs about 1,000 tons on the unstable ground at its base, so 16 thick wooden “main support pillars” stand inside the stone wall base and a ladder-type support foundation was laid across the top of them.

One of the 16 main support pillars was preplaced and is exhibited in the first floor

The layout of the 16 main support pillars, *exhibited in the first floor*

The illustration of the internal structure of the Main Tower (its lower part), exhibited in the first floor

Interior for Fighting

If you go into the first floor, you will see lots of other columns supporting the tower. The floor is separated into the central room, called “Moya”, and the surrounding defense passage, called “Musha-bashiri (directly means “warriors running”). The central room was used as storage and elevated about 50cm above the main passage. This is because the support foundation was doubled-up in this area.

The first floor (the defense passage), the central room on the left is elevated

There are defense systems along the passage – machicolations (devices for dropping stones), loopholes (for guns and arrows), and lattice windows. For instance, as many as 117 loopholes were built in this tower. They are the genuine article!

The first floor (the first level) seen from the outside

You can climb the steep steps to the next floor. The second floor is similar to the first one but brighter due to its wide latticed and non-latticed windows. It was used as a waiting place for warriors during an emergency. It is now used as Matsumoto Castle Gun Museum.

The wide latticed window on the second floor

An exhibition of the Matsumoto Castle Gun Museum

Each Floor has Unique Feature

In contrast, the third floor is dark because it is an attic with no windows. It is thought to have been used mainly for storage.

The fourth floor is also different from the others. It has fewer columns, high ceilings, and good lighting, so it is believed to have been the lord’s chamber. The steps from the fourth to the fifth are the steepest probably because of the high ceiling. Please be careful. (Taking photographs of the steps is prohibited in the tower, probably for safety and crowded-flow reasons.)

A side view of the steps to the fifth floor

The fifth floor looks interesting because the back sides of the gables are visible in all directions. It was used as a conference room for the senior vassals.

The fifth floor (the fourth level) seen from the outside

You will finally arrive at the top floor (6th), 22m above the ground. It was planned to have a veranda, but the plan was changed and the walls were built on there outside of the veranda. You can see the line where the veranda was intended to start on the floor. You can also see views of the outside through the wired windows between the walls. It was used as the headquarters of the lord during battle. If you look up at the underside of the roof, you will find the Nijurokuyashin god, which is believed to have saved this tower during the great fire during the Edo Period, worshiped on it.

The part which was supposed to be a veranda

The Nijurokuyashin god, worshiped on the underside of the roof

Later History

After the Meiji restoration, all of the castle buildings, excluding the Main Tower, were removed, and finally the tower was sold possible for scrap. Ryozo Ichikawa, a social campaigner came out, and asked the buyer to suspend the destruction of the tower. After that, he collected money by holding an exhibition and giving a detailed explanation in order to get it back, and was successful in the end. However, that was not enough for the tower. Such a large and old building is needed to do continuous maintenance to preserve it in the long term. In the middle of the Meiji Era, The tower began to lean at about six degrees due to the decay of the central columns, and bats began to live in it. Another savior, school head, Unari Kobayashi worked hard to repair the castle. At last, the tower was designated as a National Tangible Cultural Property in 1952. In addition, other primary gates of the castle, such as Kuro-mon and Taiko-mon have been restored. Matsumoto City is considering restoring the main gate as well.

The monument of Ryozo Ichikawa (on the left) and Unari Kobayashi (on the right), at the inside of the main enclosure

The photo of the Main Tower during the Meiji Era, owned by Matsumoto Castle Management Bureau (licensed under public domain via Wikimedia Commons)

My Impression

In conclusion, we can’t be completely sure exactly when and how the Main Tower was built. The history presented in this article is based on the official opinion of Matsumoto City. Some speculate that the Inui small main tower was first built, then, it was modified when the large main tower was added later because it looks like the newer multi-storied type. Others think that the large main tower originally had a different appearance from now, with the veranda on the top and more gables, and modified later. I think it is exciting for history fans to wonder which of these is the truth.

the Inui small main tower is on the left

The interior of the Inui small main tower, many logs are used for the tower, which is one possible explanation for the theory that the tower was first built

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 20-minute drive away from Matsumoto IC on the Nagano Expressway. There are few parking lots around the castle.
By public transportation, it takes about 15 minutes on foot from Matsumoto Station.
From Tokyo to the station: get Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet train and transfer to the Shinonoi Line at Nagano Station. Or take the limited express Azusa at Shinjuku Station.

Links and References

・Matsumoto Castle, National Treasure of Japan, Official Website

That’s all. Thank you.
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