181.Kokura Castle Part2

The design of the current Main Tower is very different from the original one which had simple roofs. The current tower apparently has many decorations like large hip-and-gables, which the original one didn’t have.

Features

Castle is near Kokura Station

Today, the current Kokura Castle is near Kokura Station, only about a 15 minute walk away from the station. Unfortunately, you can’t see the castle from the station because of the high buildings around. If you first reach a side of Murasaki River and walk on the promenade alongside it for a while, you can see the Main Tower of the castle among the buildings. This is the moment when you can understand the castle was developed together with the rivers.

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Main Tower
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The map around the castle

The Main Tower seen from the riverside

The main portion of the castle, including the tower, has been developed as Katsuyama Park. It was once surrounded and divided by many water moats, so there were few gates and bridges such as Tora-no-mon Gate and Nishi-no-mon Gate. However, few of the moats remain, so that’s why visitors can easily access the park now. For example, if you walk from the river to the park by passing the Kitakyushu City Hall beside Otesaki-mon Gate Ruins, you can get close to the Main Tower soon.

The original gates of the main portion (adding their English names by the red letters) in the Illustration of Kokura Castle in Buzen Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan
The ruins of Tora-no-mon Gate
The ruins of Nishi-no-mon Gate
The ruins of Otesaki-mon Gate
Getting close to the Main Tower

Current Main Tower is apparently very different from Original Tower

The current Main Tower, which was reconstructed in 1959, is 28.7m high, 5.9m higher than the original one. It is also the sixth tallest existing Main Tower in Japan. The total height including the original stone walls is 47.5m. If you stand by the inner moat surrounding the tower and the walls, they look really great; it is certainly a good viewing spot of the castle. However, there is a controversial issue about the tower. The design of the current Main Tower is very different from the original one which had simple roofs. The current tower apparently has many decorations like large hip-and-gables, Chinese styled gables and triangular shaped gables, which the original one didn’t have. It is said that the designer of the current one tried to build a tower with the same design as the original one but he couldn’t. That was because the sponsor requested him to use the current design. People at that time wanted a showy symbol which could attract many visitors.

The current Main Tower
The top 10 tallest Main Towers of castles in Japan, the No.1 is Osaka Castle on the very left, Kokura Castle is the 6th from the left, exhibited by Kokura Castle Tower
The miniature model of the original Main Tower, exhibited by Kokura Castle Tower

Several Gate Ruins of Main Enclosure

To enter the Main Tower, you have to go to the main enclosure by passing the great stone walls of the Main Gate Ruins. The walls have some huge ornamental stones and form a defensive square called Masugata.

The ruins of the Main Gate
An ornamental stone used at the corner of the stone walls of the Main Gate

After that, you only need to walk up a gentle slope to reach the enclosure and the tower. However, in the past, high-class warriors went through another gate called Keyaki-mon which remains as ruins. Meanwhile, low-class warriors had to enter Kurogane-mon Gate instead. These came from a clear discrimination of how to get the castle even among the warriors.

The Main Gate is marked by the red circle, the Keyaki-mon Gate is marked by the blue circle and the Kurogame-mon Gate is marked by the green circle, in the restored image by CG exhibited by Kokura Castle Tower
The path direct to the Main Tower for the current visitors
The ruins of Keyaki-mon Gate
The ruins of Kurogane-mon Gate

In the main enclosure, there was the main hall and there are the ruins of the Imperial Japanese army’s 12th division headquarters.

The inside of the main enclosure
The ruins of the Imperial Japanese army’s 12th division headquarters.

Renewed Interior of Main Tower

The Main Tower is used as a historical museum whose interior was recently renewed in 2019. Its top floor is used as an observation platform like the original one used to be. The appearance of the floor was also restored hanging out in the Nanban (Western) style, so its interior was built being wrapped in by the outer part.

An exhibition in the Main Tower
The top floor
A view of the Murasaki River from the floor
The appearance of the top of the tower

To be continued in “Kokura Castle Part3”
Back to “Kokura Castle Part1”

181.小倉城 その2

現在の天守のデザインは、シンプルな屋根を持っていたオリジナルの天守とは随分違っています。現在の天守の外観は、入母屋破風など多くの屋根装飾があり、それらはオリジナルの天守にはなかったものです。

特徴、見どころ

駅近の城

現在の小倉城は小倉駅の近くにあって、駅から歩いて15分程度のところです。ただ、残念ながら駅から城は見えません。周りに高いビルがあるからです。城の方に向かって紫川沿いに達し、しばらく遊歩道を歩いていくと、ビルの合間に城の天守が見えてきます。この瞬間に、小倉城が川とともに発展したことを実感できるでしょう。

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天守
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
城周辺の地図

紫川沿いから見える天守

天守を含む城の主要部は勝山公園として整備されています。かつては多くの水堀により囲まれ、且つ分割されていたため、入口の門は限られていました。虎ノ門や西ノ門などです。しかし今では堀はあまり残っていないので、ビジターは気軽に公園に入っていくことができます。例えば、紫川から公園に行くには、北九州市役所と大手先門跡の脇を通っていけば、すぐに天守が迫ってきます。

「豊前国小倉城絵図」部分に加筆、出典:国立公文書館
虎ノ門跡
西ノ口門跡
大手先門跡
天守に近づいていきます

オリジナルとはかなり違う復興天守

現在の天守は1959年に復興されたもので、オリジナルの天守より5.9m高い、28.7mの高さがあります。また、この天守は日本に存在している中では6番目の高さになります。現存天守台石垣を含めた高さは47.5mです。天守と天守台を囲む内堀際に立ってみると、本当に素晴らしい姿です。ここは確かにこの城のビューイングスポットと言えるでしょう。ところが、この天守には物議をかもすような問題があります。現在の天守のデザインは、シンプルな屋根を持っていたオリジナルの天守とは随分違っているのです。現在の天守の外観は、入母屋破風、唐破風、千鳥破風といった多くの屋根装飾があり、それらはオリジナルの天守にはなかったものです。現在の天守のデザイナーはオリジナルと同じ設計で天守を作ろうとしたが果たせなかったと言われています。現在見られデザインで設計するよう要望されたそうです。当時の人たちは、観光の目玉となるような華々しい町のシンボルを欲していたようです。

復興天守の外観
現在存在する天守の高さ比べ、小倉城天守内展示より
オリジナル天守の外観、小倉城天守内展示より

本丸内の門跡

天守の中に入るには、すばらしい石垣を持つ大手門跡を通り過ぎて本丸に行く必要があります。大手門の石垣には巨大な鏡石が使われていて、桝形と呼ばれる四角い防御スペースを形作っています。

大手門跡
石垣角に使われている鏡石

その後、本丸とそこにある天守にたどり着くには緩やかな坂を登っていくだけです。しかし過去においては、上級武士はもう一つの門、欅門(けやきもん)を通っていました。その門跡は残っています。一方、下級武士は欅門ではなく、鉄門(くろがねもん)の方を通りました。同じ武士といっても階級によって明確な差別があったのです。

前出の復元CGで赤丸内が大手門、青丸内が欅門、緑丸内が鉄門
天守に直通するビジター用の通路
欅門跡
鉄門跡

本丸には御殿がありましたが、現在では旧日本陸軍の第12師団司令部跡地となっています。

本丸内部
第12師団司令部の門跡

リニューアルされた天守内部

天守は歴史博物館として使われていますが、2019年にリニューアルされたばかりです。最上階は、かつてのオリジナルの天守のように展望台となっています。その最上階の外観も南蛮造りとして張り出したデザインになっています。よって、その内側にいるとその外装部分によって包まれたような感じがします。

天守内の展示
最上階
最上からの眺め(東側の紫川方面)
最上階部分の外観

「小倉城その3」に続きます。
「小倉城その1」に戻ります。

105.Shiroishi Castle Part3

You can also visit other attractions regarding Shiroishi Castle in the former castle town. First of all, there is a remaining Samurai Residence in the former third enclosure, in the north of the castle. The residence was confirmed to be built in 1730.

Features

My Impression

Interior of Main Tower

You can enter the Main Tower from the inside of the enclosure by climbing the roofed stone steps. In fact, the steps were used only for the lord of the domain, the Date Clan, like their private rooms in the Main Hall of the enclosure. The others used the side entrance in the connecting tower next to the Main Tower.

The Main Tower seen from the inside of the main enclosure
The miniature model of the tower also has the roofed steps
The stone steps to the entrance

The tower has three floors, which were all wooden in a traditional manner. Its columns are made of Japanese Yoshino cypress which would be usable for about 250 years. The design of the first floor was discovered by the excavations, so the floor has the storage space in the center and the surrounding defense passage. Defense systems like machicolations, loopholes, and lattice windows, are built along the passage or on the walls.

The first floor of the tower
Armors are exhibited in the center
A lattice window on the left and a machicolation on the right
A loophole

The steps to the upstairs are very steep, but more gentle than the original and you can use modern handrails for support. The second and top floors are designed by the builder’s assumption because there was no evidence of them, but are orthodox. The top floor was built as a lookout position, which is probably a fact and a good viewing spot for the current visitors.

The steps at the second floor
The top floor
A view from the top
A view of the main enclosure and the city area from the top

Attractions of Castle Town

You can also visit other attractions regarding Shiroishi Castle in the former castle town. First of all, there is a remaining Samurai Residence in the former third enclosure, in the north of the castle. The residence was confirmed to be built in 1730. The Koseki Clan, one of the middle-class warriors under the Katakura Clan, lived in it for a long time. Their descendants also lived in it until 1991 before they donated it to the city. The city restored it to its original conditions and opened it to the public the following year.

The former Koseki’s residence

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Former Koseki’s Residence
Leaflet|国土地理院
The aerial photo around the city area

The residence is small and simple with a thatched roof and four rooms ( 2 wooden floors, 1 earthen floor, amd 1 Tatami matted floor). This was probably because the warriors in Shiroishi had lower incomes than those who directly served the Date Clan. However, the Sawabata River flows along two sides of the residence, which is a very good location.

The living room (one of the wooden floors)
The Tatami room (probably for the master)
The Japanese garden beside the residence
The Sawabata River flows around the residence

Other than that, you can walk along the waterways and find the two moved castle gates in Toshinji and Enmeji Temples.

A gate moved from the castle to the Toshinji Temple
Another gate moved from the castle to the Enmeiji Temple (under repairing)

My Impression

Overall, Shiroishi Castle survived thanks to the two exemptions. One is that of the Law of One Castle per Province (or the lord’s territory) by the shogunate during the Edo Period. The other is that of Japan’s Building Standard Act in the present time. In addition, I think we would not be able to see the Main Tower of the castle without the great contributions of the Katakura CLan and the current Shiroishi people.

The restored Main Tower

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 10-minute drive away from Shiroishi IC on the Tohoku Expressway.
There is a parking lot at the eastern foot of the hill called “Joka-hiroba”.
By public transportation, it takes about 15 minutes on foot from JR Shiroishi Station or it takes about 5 minutes by taxi from Tohoku Shinkansan Shiroishi-Zao Station.
From Tokyo to Shiroishi Station: take the Tohoku Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Tohoku Line at Fukushima Station.

Shiroishi Station

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Shiroishi Castle Part1”
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