173.Nitakayama Castle Part3

After Nitakayama Castle was abandoned, its ruins were used as a place for the practices of the mountain priests. That’s why there are stone buddha statues and monuments they built on the top of the mountain.

Features

Unique Final Enclosure

Tsume-no-maru (meaning the final enclosure) is next to the main enclosure to the southeast. It is also the top of the mountain, where you can enjoy great views of the surrounding area, such as Takayama Castle Ruins, Nuta River, and even Seto Inland Sea. It is also a more interesting place than only the top area. It is the rockiest and steepest area of this mountain. Furthermore, it has lots of stone buddha statues and monuments which mountain priests built. That’s why this site has become unique.

The map around the castle

The Tsume-no-maru (final) Enclosure
The top of NItakayama Mountain
A view of the Nuta River towards the Seto Inland Sea from the top
The ruins of Takayama Castle
The stone buddha statues around the top

Well Enclosure, Lifeline of Castle

Tsurii-no-dan (meaning the well enclosure) is next to the main enclosure to the north. You can go there from the back gate of the main enclosure by walking down another Masugata system. This Masugata is different. It is called the inter type which is highly improved than that of the main gate (the outer type). It also still has clearly remaining earthen walls which form its square shape.

The ruins of the back gate of the main enclosure
The Masugata system of the back gate, seen from its side

Tsurii-no-dan Enclosure is lower than others, like a valley, which still has six large well ruins. It was very important for the castle not only to be besieged for a long time, but also to be able to live in.

The Tsurii-no-dan (well) Enclosure
One of the six well ruins in the enclosure

Later History

After Nitakayama Castle was abandoned, its ruins were used as a place for the practices of the mountain priests. That’s why you saw the stone buddha statues and monuments on the top they built. They also built chain fields on the steepest route to the top which experienced climbers still use today. However, general visitors shouldn’t use it. As for the castle ruins, they were designated as National Historic Sites with Mihara and Takayama Castles in 1957.

A monument on the top
The top area of Nitakayama Mountain, looking very steep

My Impression

Mihara Castle was the final castle of Takakage Kobayakawa. However, I’m not quite sure what the castle looked like when he lived there because it was greatly improved by Fukushima and Asano Clans after Takakage died. Therefore, we can’t find how and where the huge stones from Nitakayama Castle were used in Mihara Castle. That means the ruins of Nitakayama Castle are valuable to see the legacies of Takakage’s period. As for myself, I would like to visit the ruins of Takayama Castle next to Nitakayama Castle someday.

A picture of Mihara Castle, drawn on the wall of Mihara Station
The part of the Main Tower base of Mihara Castle, which was built by Takakage Kobayakawa

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 4km drive away from Hongo IC on the Sanyo Expressway. There is a parking lot for visitors near the entrance of the hiking course.

The parking lot for visitors

By public transportation, it takes about 25 minutes on foot from JR Hongo Station.
After you get out of the station, turn right and go along the street in front of the station. Then, turn left at the first intersection, and the street leads to a bridge over the Nuta River while it follows a winding road. It may be better for you to walk the sidewalk on the left because the next intersection has a crosswalk only on this side.

Go along the street in front of the station
Walk the sidewalk on the left after turning left
The crosswalk in fron t of the bridge

If you walk across it, you will go on the bridge seeing a good view of Nitakayama and Takayama Mountains on the right. After that, turn right, go across another crosswalk and go on a path on the bank beside the river towards the mountains. This path will split into two, but eventually they will meet in front of a shrine. You will eventually arrive at the entrance of the hiking course.

Nitakayama Mountain on the left and Takayama Mountain on the right, seen from the bridge
You can choose either path on the bank
Arriving at the starting point to the castle ruins

From Tokyo or Osaka to the station: get Sanyo Shinkansen bullet train and transfer to the Sanyo Line at Mihara Station.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Nitakayama Castle Part1”
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173.新高山城 その3

新高山城が廃城となった後、城跡は山伏たちの修業の場として使われました。そのため、山の頂上には彼らが作ったたくさんの仏像や石碑があります。

特徴、見どころ

ユニークな詰の丸

詰の丸は、本丸のとなり、南西方向にあります。ここは山頂に当たります。ここからは、高山城跡、沼田川、そして(天気がよければ)瀬戸内海までも見渡す素晴らしい景色を堪能できます。それにここは単に一番高いという以上に興味を惹かれる場所で、最も岩がゴツゴツしていて険しい所でもあります。更には、ここには修験道の山伏たちによって作られた数多くの仏像や題目碑があります。これらがここをとてもユニークな場所にしています。

城周辺の地図

詰の丸
新高山山頂
沼田川、瀬戸内海方面の景色
高山城跡
山上の石仏群

城の生命線、釣井の段

釣井(つりい)の段も本丸のとなり、北方向にある曲輪です。ここに行くには、もう一つの桝形を下って、本丸の搦手門跡から出ていきます。この桝形は、先ほどの大手門跡にあった方(外桝形)とはタイプが違っていて、内桝形に分類されます。内桝形の方が、より進化したタイプとなります。その四角い形が土塁によって形作られていて、今でもはっきりと確認することができます。

本丸の搦手門跡
横から見た桝形

釣井の段は、他の曲輪よりも低い位置にあり、谷間のような感じです。ここには大きな井戸跡が6つも残っています。この曲輪は、長い籠城戦に耐えるためだけではなく、日常的に城内で生活するためにもとても重要な場所でした。

釣井の段
6つの井戸跡のうちの一つ

その後

新高山城が廃城となった後、城跡は山伏たちの修業の場として使われました。そのために、山の頂上に彼らが作った仏像や石碑があったのです。山伏たちはまた、頂上に向かうための最も険しいルートに鎖場を設けました。そしてそれは、熟練の登山家が今でも利用しているそうですが、普通のビジターが通れるようなところではありません。城跡そのものに関しては、1957年に三原城、高山城とともに国の史跡に指定されました。

山頂にある題目碑
とても険しく見える山頂周辺

私の感想

三原城は、小早川隆景の終の棲家となりました。しかし、その時城がどんな姿をしていたかはわかっていません。隆景の死後、福島氏や浅野氏によって大拡張が行われたからです。そのため、新高山城から持ち込まれた大石が三原城でどのように使われたのかもわからないのです。つまり、新高山城跡というのは、隆景の時代の遺産として大変貴重なものなのです。私に関して言えば、いつか新高山城に続いて、高山城跡を訪れてみたいと思っています。

三原駅に描かれているかつての三原城の姿(福島氏、浅野氏による拡張後)
三原城天守台西側(写真)は小早川時代に作られたとのことです

ここに行くには

車で行く場合:山陽自動車道の本郷ICから約4kmのところにあります。ハイキングコースの入口近くにビジター用の駐車場があります。

ビジター用駐車場

公共交通機関を使う場合は、JR本郷駅から歩いて約25分かかります。
駅から出た後は、右に曲がって駅の前の通りに沿って進んでください。そして、最初の交差点を左に曲がります。曲がっていく道に沿っていくと、沼田川を渡る橋に至ります。この交差点には左側にしか横断歩道がないので、あらかじめ左側の歩道を歩いておいた方がいいです。

駅前の通りを進みます
左折した後は左側の歩道を進んでください
端の前の横断歩道

横断歩道を渡ると、右側に新高山と高山の景色を見ながら橋を渡ります。渡り終わったら右に曲がって再び横断歩道を渡り、山に向かって川の土手の上を通る道を進みます。道は二手に分かれますが、どちらを歩いても神社の手間で合流します。そうするうちに、ハイキングコース(大手道)の入口に到着します。

橋から見える新高山(左)と高山(右)
土手の上の左右どちらの道を進んでも大丈夫です
大手道入口に到着します

東京または大阪から本郷駅まで:山陽新幹線に乗って、三原駅で山陽本線に乗り換えてください。

リンク、参考情報

本郷町観光協会(ホームページ)
・「小早川隆景のすべて」新人物往来社編
・「備陽史探訪の会 早春の沼田本郷に小早川氏の夢を訪ねる」

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「新高山城その1」に戻ります。
「新高山城その2」に戻ります。

13.Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part3

Go along the former Oshu Road to the north until you get near Abukuma River, and look back to the left, you will see another great scenery. It is 180m long stone walls on a hill along the river, called Komine Castle Eastern Stone Walls.

Features

Walking around Main Enclosure

If you want to see other attractions of the castle, you can get out of the main enclosure through the ruins of Sakura-no-mon (meaning the cherry gate) to walk around the stone walls of the enclosure on the belt enclosure, the lower tier of the main portion. The ruins of Tsukimi-Yagura (meaning the moon viewing turret) are in front of the gate ruins of the enclosure, which look very strong with their remaining stone wall base.

The map around the main enclosure

The ruins of Sakura-no-mon Gate
The entrance of the belt enclosure
The ruins of Tsukimi Turret seen from the second enclosure below
The back of the Tsukimi Turret Ruins

The belt enclosure surrounds the western and northern sides of the main enclosure. You can feel relaxed by walking on the belt enclosure, while enjoying looking at the great, long and high stone walls of the main enclosure. These stone walls look well-maintained. However, they collapsed heavily during Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011 and were repaired by Shirakawa City for the following eight years (completed in 2019).

The western part of the belt enclosure
The great stone walls of the main enclosure
The northern part of the belt enclosure
The explanation board of the stone walls being destroyed by the earthquake and repaired later on

You will eventually reach the other gate ruins of the belt enclosure, called Ya (arrow)-no-mon. You can see a great view of the three-level turret at the northeastern edge of the main enclosure on the right. However, if you were an enemy, the defenders would attack you through the turret’s machicolations and loopholes facing you.

The ruins of Ya-no-mon Gate
The turret seems to look targeting you

Going to Outside of Castle

Another recommendation for you is to visit the former third enclosure, which is the east of the main portion. It has turned into the city area mainly including public facilities. There is only one remaining castle building among the area, the Taiko-Yagura Turret, which was originally used beside the Taiko-mon Gate in the second enclosure. It was moved to a private sector, converted to a tea room, and finally moved to the current position where it has been since 1930.

The map around the castle

The Taiko Turret has become a tea room

If you go further to the east until the National Route 294 (the former Oshu Road), go along the road to the north until you get near Abukuma River, and look back to the left, you will see another great scenery. It is 180m long stone walls on a hill along the river, called Komine Castle Eastern Stone Walls. In fact, they were recently discovered when the pine trees on the hill were cut down for the bypass road constructions. They must have been built to protect the castle from the threats from the north. These stone walls connect to the back gate of the castle, which opens to the north, but you can’t go directly to the gate due to the construction site between them.

Komine Castle Eastern Stone Walls
Looking the stone walls from the bridge over the Abukuma River
No entry is allowed around the stone walls due to the constructions
The ruins of the back gate

My Impression

While visiting the well-remaining structures and restored buildings of Shirakawa-Komine Castle, I felt the strong intentions of Nagashige Niwa, the builder of them, to protect the castle from possible enemies from the north. He must have been one of the few lords to do it properly and quickly. I also think that the history during the Boshin War lets us to know that such a strong castle had a weak point and could not survive without enough soldiers and proper instructions

The three-level turret seen from Abukuma River, north of the castle

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 10-minute drive away from Shirakawa-Chuo Smart IC on the Tohoku Expressway.
There is a parking lot in the park.
By public transportation, the castle is very near the JR Shirakawa station. You can even see the nice view of the three-level turret from the platform.
From Tokyo to the station: Get the Tohoku Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Tohoku Line at Shin-Shirakawa Station. The destination will be the next station.

The castle ruins seen from the platform of the station

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part1”
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