101.Shinori-Tate Part1

The center of the trading between Japanese and Ainu people

Location and History

One of Dounan Twelve Halls

Shinori-Tate was a hall which Japanese warriors built in the Middle Ages in what is now Hakodate City of Hokkaido Island. At that time, the island was called Ezo, where the native Ainu people lived. They spoke a different language and had a different way of life from people living in the mainland of Japan (called “Japanese people” later in this article). They earned a living by hunting, fishing, and trading, not by farming like “Japanese people” usually did. The first “Japanese people”, who moved from the mainland to Ezo, were said to be exiles, surviving warriors and merchants. Some historians speculate these moving people became a group, called Watari-To or the Migrating Party, who traded with the people of the mainland. The Ando Clan, which governed the northern edge of the mainland, monitored and controlled the party as the Shogunal Deputy for Ezo since the 13th Century.

The painting of Ainu men, attributed to Isabella Lucy Bird, in the 19th Century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

In the late 14th Century, the Migrating Party and other “Japanese people” were very active in Oshima Peninsula at the southern edge of Hokkaido. The leaders of them started to build several halls for living and trading alongside the peninsula. Shinori-Tate was one of the Dounan (southern part of Hokkaido) Twelve Halls, the easternmost and probably earliest one of the halls. Historians think the Kobayashi Clan which worked under the Ando Clan built the hall.

The location of the castle

Hall prospers with Shinori Town

Shinori town beside the hall also prospered in commerce and industry between the “Japanese” and Ainu people. Records say there was a blacksmith town with hundreds of houses because Ainu people could not produce iron items. In 1968, about 370 thousand buried old coins in three big jars were found at the seaside of Shinori, 100m away from the hall ruins. The jars are partially broken, so if they were intact, the number of coins would reach 500 thousand. Upon checking the kinds of the coins, it was found out that they were buried in the same period as the hall. That would prove that a rich merchant or lord was there. Some historians even speculate the Kobayashi Clan might have buried the coins for the Ground-breaking ceremony of Shinori Tate.

The buried old coins which were designated as an Important Cultural Property, quoted from the website of Hakodate City

The hall was built on an over 20m high hill beside the seaside in the south. The ground for the hall was a square space which was 70m from the east to the west and 50m from the south to the north. It was surrounded by earthen walls and dry moats outside. The western side of it has its entrance and double dry moats. It is thought that the hall was usually used for a living or trading but also used for a base like a castle when an emergency situation or battle happened.

The relief map around the castle

The ruins of Shinori Tate
The location map of Shinori-Tate Ruins at the site

Hall is captured twice by Ainu Rebellions

The situation dramatically changed after the Ando Clan was defeated and evicted from the mainland by the Nanbu Clan in 1432. The Ando Clan had to move their home base to Hokkaido. Since then, tension increased between the “Japanese” and Ainu people because the clan tried to rule the island directly. In 1456, an incident happened at a blacksmith in Shinori. An Ainu boy complained about the short sword that he ordered to a craftsman who made it. However, the craftsman killed the boy. This made the Ainu people very angry and resulted in an uprising led by their leader, Koshamain.

The Ainu style short swords called Makiri  (licensed by Haa900 via Wikimedia Commons)

Shinori Tate, which was owned by Yoshikage Kobayashi, was attacked and captured by the uprising people. Yoshikage was also killed. Then, ten out of the Dounan Twelve Halls fell. In the following year, a “Japanese” general, Nobuhiro Takeda defeated Koshamain and crushed the rebellion. After that, Shinori Tate was restored by Yoshisada Kobayashi, the son of Yoshikage. However, the Ainu people raised a rebellion and captured Shinori Tate again in 1512. During this encounter, Yoshisada was killed. As a result, the “Japanese” people decided to get together in the western part of Oshima Peninsula, which led to the launching of the Matsumae Domain and Matsumae Castle in the Edo Period. Shinori Tate, which was located in the eastern part of the peninsula, was eventually abandoned.

The portrait of Nobuhiro Takeda (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Matsumae Castle

To be continued in “Shinori-Tate Part2”

101.志苔館 その1

和人とアイヌ民族の交易の中心地

立地と歴史

道南十二館の一つ

志苔館(しのりたて)は、現在の北海道函館市において中世の日本の武士たちが築いた館です。当時、北海道は蝦夷(ヶ島)と呼ばれていて、原住民としてアイヌ民族が住んでいました。アイヌは、日本の本州に住んでいた日本人(以下「和人」と表記)とは違う言語、違う生活様式を有していました。彼らは、和人が通常農耕により生活していたのとは異なり、狩猟、漁撈、交易によって生活の資を得ていました。本州から蝦夷に渡った最初の和人は、罪人、落ち武者、商人であったろうと言われています。(和人から見て当時の蝦夷は3つの集団に分かれていましたが)その蝦夷に渡った人たちが、和人と交易を行っていた「渡党(わたりとう)」というグループになったのではないかとする歴史家もいます。本州の北端部分を支配していた安東(あんどう)氏が、13世紀以来「蝦夷管領」として渡党の人たちを監視し、コントロールしていました。

イザベラ・バードによるアイヌ男性のスケッチ、19世紀 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

14世紀後半、渡党と和人たちが北海道の南端の渡島半島でさかんに活動しました。そして、そのリーダーたちは半島沿いに居住や交易のためにいくつもの館を築き始めました。志苔館は、道南十二館の一つであり、そのうちで最も東側にあり、恐らくは最初のものだっと思われます。歴史家は、安東氏の配下であった小林氏が志苔館を築いたのではないかとしています。

城の位置

志海苔の町とともに繁栄

館のそばにある志海苔(しのり)の町も、和人とアイヌの間で行われた交易や産業によって繁栄しました。記録によれば、そこには数百件の家屋から成る鍛冶屋町がありました。アイヌの人たちは自分たちで鉄製品を作ることができなかったからです。1968年のことですが、志苔館跡から約100m離れた海岸で大甕に入った約37万枚もの古銭が発見されました。大甕は複数あり、一部が壊れていました。もし、全部が完全な状態であれば古銭の量は50万に及んだだろうとされています。古銭の種類を調べたところ、館があったのと同じ時期に埋められたということがわかりました。この辺りには裕福な商人か領主がいたということになります。歴史家の中には、小林氏が志苔館を築くときの地鎮祭のために、これらの古銭を埋めたのではないかと推測している人もいます。

北海道志海苔中世遺構出土銭、重要文化財、函館市ホームページから引用

志苔館は、南側の海岸から20m以上の高さがある丘の上に築かれました。館は、東西70m、南北50mの方形の区画に建てられました。その区画の外側は、土塁、更には空堀によって囲まれていました。区画の西側が出入口となっており、空堀が二重になっていました。館は普段は居住や交易のために使われたが、緊急事態や戦いが起こったときには城のような基地としても使われたと考えられます。

城周辺の起伏地図

志苔館跡
志苔館跡の現地案内図

アイヌの反乱により2度の落城

館周辺の状況は、1432年に安東氏が南部氏との戦いに敗れ、本州から追い出されたときに劇的に変わりました。安東氏は本拠地を北海道に移さざるをえず、それ以来、和人とアイヌの間の緊張が一気に高まりました。安東氏が北海道を直接支配しようとしたからです。1456年に志海苔の鍛冶屋で事件が起こりました。アイヌの少年がその鍛冶屋に注文した小刀(マキリ)に対して不満を述べたところ、なんと鍛冶屋が少年を殺してしまったのです。この事件はアイヌの人たちを憤激させ、アイヌのリーダー、コシャマインによる反乱に至りました。

アイヌマキリ (licensed by Haa900 via Wikimedia Commons)

小林良景(よしかげ)が所有していた志苔館は、反乱軍により攻撃され、落城しました。良景もまた殺されました。そして、道南十二館のうち、10館までが占領されてしまったのです。翌年、和人の武将である武田信広がコシャマインを討ち取り、反乱を鎮圧しました。その後、志苔館は良景の子、小林良定(よしさだ)により再建されましたが、1512年にまたもアイヌによる反乱がおこり、館は占領されました。良定までもが殺されました。その結果、和人は渡島半島の西部に集結することとし、江戸時代には松前藩の立藩や松前城の築城につながっていきます。半島の東側にあった志苔館はやがて廃城となりました。

武田信広肖像画 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
松前城

「志苔館その2」に続きます。

81.Matsuyama Castle Part1

Yoshiaki Kato devoted himself to the construction of this castle.

Location and History

Yoshiaki Kato builds Castle as his new Home Base

Matsuyama City in Ehime Prefecture is one of the most popular tourist spots in Japan, which is also known for attractions such as the Dogo Hot Spring. In fact, the area around the hot spring was the center of Iyo Province, the former Ehime Pref. until the Middle Ages. The Kono Clan governed the province by building Yuzuki Castle beside the spring. However, the clan declined during the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi and Ieyasu Tokugawa. When the Tokugawa Shogunate was established by Ieyasu after the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, it gave a large territory in Iyo Province to Yoshiaki Kato who distinguished in the battle.

The range of Matsuyama City and the location of the castle

The ruins of Yuzuki Castle

Yoshiaki was an excellent general who worked under Hideyoshi and Ieyasu, joining many battles including the invasion of Korea. He built the Matsuyama Castle on Katsuyama Mountain which is 132 meters high, using his knowledge about the modern technology and his own experience building castles. The situation was still unstable and it is also said that Yoshiaki quarreled with Takatora Todo who divided Iyo Provence with him. Yoshiaki completely devoted himself to the construction of the castle from 1602 to 1627 until he was transferred to Wakamatsu Castle in the Tohoku Region. Just after the launch of the construction, he renamed Katsuyama (which means Win Mountain) Matsuyama (which means Pine Mountain). For the Japanese at that time, the word Matsu or Pine was a lucky one which can be seen in other castles’ names like Wakamatsu, Matsumoto, and Matsusaka. This is the origin of the names of Matsuyama Castle and City.

The portrait of Yoshoaki Kato, owned by Fujisaka Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The relief map around the castle

The apparently restored Main Tower of Wakamatsu Castle Yoshiaki originally built

Strictly protected Mountain Part and Convenient Large Foot Part

The top area of Katsuyama Mountain was like a shape of a tongue which became the Main Enclosure. In addition, another enclosure called Hondan or the Central Compound was built for the Main Tower, on the highest point of the Main Enclosure. The style of the Main Tower is called Renritsu-siki or the Tower Grouping, which refers to the Large and Small Main Towers and turrets being connected by the Hall Turrets like a corridor. The first Large Main Tower was said to have five levels. The Second Enclosure was built at the foot of the mountain for the Main Hall for the lord. The enclosures mentioned above were all surrounded by high stone walls. The Main Route connecting the Second and Main Enclosures was built complexly to avoid enemies from attacking easily. Moreover, the route was surrounded on both sides by long-line stone walls called Nobori-Ishigaki or the Climbing Stone walls. This stone wall style was rare and introduced by the lords who joined the invasion of Korea, including Yoshiaki Kato. Finally, The Third Enclosure, which was the largest one in the castle, was built outside the Second Enclosure and surrounded by water moats for government offices and high-ranking warriors’ houses.

the Tower Grouping type Main Tower of Matsuyama Castle
Part of the Secret Picture of Kikaku Castle (another name of Matsuyama Castle) in 1864, from the signboard at the site
The Climbing Stone walls of Matsuyama Castle

After Yoshiaki was transferred in 1627, the Gamo Clan followed the castle construction, completing the Second Enclosure. The Hisamatsu-Matsudaira Clan followed the Gamo Clan in 1635 and continued the construction. It had been said the clan reduced the levels of the Main Tower from five to three for some reasons. According to the recent research, it was founded the Central Compound as the base of the tower was moved and renovated. It could be because the ground of the original compound was weak. It is possible that the first thing that the clan built was the three-tier main tower. The clan also completed the Third Enclosure by building another Main Hall in it in 1687.

The partially restored Second Enclosure of Matsuyama Castle
The present Third Enclosure of Matsuyama Castle

Restoring Main Tower and Trial during Meiji Restoration

Fortunately, no battle happened at this castle, however, other natural disasters hit the castle. In 1784, most of the buildings on the Central Compound including the Main Tower were burned down by a lightning fire. The Matsuyama Domain led by the Hisamatsu-Matsudaira Clan couldn’t afford rebuilding them. After a while, the domain somehow restore them in 1853 at the end of the Edo Period. The restored buildings are thought to have the same designs as the previous ones. That’s why the Main Tower of this castle is the newest Main Tower of the twelve remaining ones in Japan.

The remaining Main Tower of Matsuyama Castle was restored in 1853

The Hisamatsu-Matsudaira Clan originally used only Hisamatsu as their family name. However, the founder of the clan, Sadakatsu and that of the Tokugawa Shogunate, Ieyasu were brothers but with different fathers. For this reason, Sadakatsu was allowed to use the family name Matsudaira as a relative of the shogun. This had been fortune during the Edo Period, while unfortune during the Meiji Restoration when the shogunate was defeated. The clan had to support the shogunate and invade the territory of the Choshu Domain which would be a winner of the restoration. They feared the revenge of the Choshu which actually was coming to Matsuyama Castle and would destroy it. Then, the Tosa Domain led by the Yamanouchi Clan, which had a close relationship with Hisamatsu-Matsudaira Clan, saved it. The domain troops intentionally occupied the castle before the Choshu troops arrived to avoid the Choshu doing anything without permission.

The Main Tower of Matsuyama Castle, seen from the ruins of Yuzuki Castle

To be continued in “Matsuyama Castle Part2”