80.Yuzuki Castle Part1

The center of Iyo Province in the Middle Ages

Location and History

Great find of Matsuyama City

Matsuyama City is one of the most popular tourist spots in Japan, which is also known for attractions such as the Dogo Hot Spring and Matsuyama Castle. However, you should check out another one as well, called Yuzuki Castle. The Dogo Hot Spring has been said to be the oldest hot spring in Japan, so some ancient imperial family members probably including Prince Shotoku once visited there and stayed for a while. The hill, where Yuzuki Castle would be built later, was near the hot spring and had the Isaniwa Shrine at the top. That means the area around the hill had been considered a holy place by the people in Iyo Province which is now modern day Ehime Prefecture.

The range of Iyo Province and the location of Yuzuki Cassle

Dogo-Onsen Station
Matsuyama Castle

Official Residence of Governor, Kono Clan

The Kono Clan was one of the local clans in Iyo Province. When the Mongol Invasion happened in 1281, Michiari Kono, the lord of the clan, was very active in the battle against the Mongol troops, who was also drawn in the picture scrolls of the Mongol invasion attempts against Japan, which was produced by Suenaga Takezaki. In the first 14th Century, the Kono Clan managed to take over the province, therefore, they built Yuzuki Castle on the hill after relocating the shrine to another place next to the hill. The clan finally became the ruling clan of the province, living in the castle as the official residence of the governor. The holy spot probably also provided the clan more authority.

Michiari Kono drawn in the picture scrolls of the Mongol invasion attempts against Japan (licensed by Wikimedia Commons)
The hill where Yuzuki Castle was built and the Isaniwa Shrine had been

However, the governance of Iyo Province by the Kono Clan was not very stable. This was because other clans such as the Hosokawa and Ouchi Clans invaded the province. The Kono Clan itself sometimes had internal troubles as well. In 1535 during the Sengoku Period, Michinao Kono, the lord of the clan at that time, built an Outer Moat using earthen walls inside, to make his castle much stronger defensively. The castle originally had an Inner Moat with other earthen walls outside, so by having the second outer moat, it doubled the moats.

The Outer Moat of Yuzuki Castle
You can see the doubled moats of Yuzuki Castle in the miniature model of the ruins, exhibited by the Yuzuki Castle Museum

It is still uncertain what the center of the castle on the hill was used for, but the lord of the castle might have lived there. The area between the Inner and Outer moats was shared by the warriors for living and divided by the mud walls for each resident. The southern part was used as the residences for the high-class warriors. Each portion for them was large and a Japanese garden was built next to that part. On the other hand, the western part was used as the residences for the middle-class warriors. Each portion was much smaller than that of high-class residences, but one of the residences had a meeting room where people could enjoy parties for poetry which were very popular back then. In addition, the castle had at least two gates, one on the eastern gate which was the front and another one on the western side which was the back.

One of the restored mud walls
The residences for the middle-class warriors in in the miniature model

Castle is abandoned after Kono Clan declines

Despite the renovation of the castle, the Kono Clan struggled to maintain it. According to the excavation, the castle was burned down after the renovation. The clan managed to rebuild the castle and tried to survive by working closely with the Kurushima Clan as well as with the Murakami navy forces. Despite the invasion by the Chosogabe Clan from Tosa Province, which was the south of Iyo, along with the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, the Kono Clan had to ask the Mori Clan in the Aki Province, which was the north of Iyo, for help. In 1585, Ushifukumaru Kono, the last lord of the clan, handed the castle over to Takakage Kobayakawa, who was a relative of the Mori Clan. In 1588 when Masanori Fukushima, following Takakage, moved from Yuzuki Castle to another castle. the castle was eventually abandoned.

The portrait of Takakage Kobayakawa, owned by Beisanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Masanori Fukushima, the lord of Hiroshima Castle, owned by the Tokyo National Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Yuzuki Castle Part2”

80.湯築城 その1

中世における伊予国の中心地

立地と歴史

松山の隠れスポット

松山市は、日本で有数の観光地であり、道後温泉や松山城などの観光スポットがあることでも知られています。しかし、もう一つ他のスポットも見てはいかがでしょうか。それは、湯築城といいます。道後温泉は日本で最も古い温泉地と言われており、恐らくは聖徳太子も含む古代の皇族がここを訪れ、しばらく滞在したりしていました。後に湯築城が築かれることになる丘は、道後温泉の近くにあり、かつてその頂上には伊佐爾波(いさにわ)神社がありました。この丘の周辺地は伊予国(現在の愛媛県)の人々にとって、聖なる地だったのです。

伊予国の範囲と湯築城の位置

道後温泉駅
松山城

河野氏の守護所

河野氏は、伊予国の地方豪族の一つでした。1281年のモンゴル襲来のとき、河野氏の当主であった河野通有(みちあり)は、モンゴル軍との戦いで大いに活躍しました。その姿は、竹崎季長によって作られた「蒙古襲来絵詞」にも描かれています。14世紀の初めに河野氏は伊予国を勢力下に収め、伊佐爾波神社があった丘から神社を隣接地に移し、その丘の上に湯築城を築いたのです。河野氏はついには伊予国の守護になり、城は守護所という位置づけとなりました。聖なる地に居を構えたことで河野氏の権威は高まりました。

「蒙古襲来絵詞」に描かれた河野通有 (licensed by Wikimedia Commons)
かつて伊佐爾波神社があり、湯築城が築かれた丘

ところが、河野氏による伊予国の統治はあまり安定しませんでした。細川氏や大内氏といった他の大名が、伊予国に侵入してきたからです。河野氏自身もしばしば内部対立を起こしました。戦国時代の1535年、時の当主であった河野通直(みちなお)は、城の防御力をもっと強化するために外堀と、その内側に土塁を築きました。この城にはもともと内堀があり、その外側にも土塁がありました。つまり、2つ目の堀を築くことで二重化を行ったわけです。

湯築城の外堀
湯築城跡の模型、堀が二重化されているのがわかります、湯築城資料館の展示より

丘の上にあった城の中心部がどのように使われていたかは、いまだにわかっていません。しかし、城主がそこに住んでいたことは考えられます。内堀と外堀の間の区域は武士たちの居住地となっており、個々の住居は土塀によって仕切られていました。南側の部分は、上級武士の居住地として使われていました。個々の住居の区画が大きく、となりには日本庭園が造営されました。西側の部分は中級クラスの武士の居住地として使われました。個々の区画は上級武士のそれよりずっと小さいのですが、その内の一つの屋敷には会所(集会室)があり、そこでは人々が集い、当時流行っていた句会が開かれていました。他には、この城には少なくとも2つの門がありました。一つは東側の門で、それが正門でした。もう一つは西側にあり、裏門であったと考えられています。

復元された土塀
上記模型の中の中級武士の区画

河野氏が力尽き、やがて廃城

このように、城には改修が加えられましたが、河野氏は城を維持するのに大変な苦労を重ねました。発掘調査によれば、この城はその改修の後、焼け落ちていたのです。その後何とか再建を果たし、村上水軍を擁する来島(くるしま)氏と連携することにより生き残りを図ります。しかし、伊予の南の土佐国から長宗我部氏が侵入してくる一方、豊臣秀吉による天下統一も進められていました。このような状況下で河野氏は、(瀬戸内海を挟んで)伊予の北に位置する安芸国の毛利氏に助けを求めることにしました。1585年、最後の当主である河野牛福丸(うしふくまる)は、毛利氏の一門である小早川隆景に城を引き渡しました。1588年には、隆景の後の城主となった福島正則が湯築城から他の城に移っていきました。その後、湯築城は廃城となったようです。

小早川隆景肖像画、米山寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
福島正則肖像画、東京国立博物館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

「湯築城その2」に続きます。

183.Kurume Castle Part1

An important castle in the Chikugo Province

Location and History

Debatable ground among Great Warlords

Kurume Castle was located in the Chikugo Province which is now the southern part of Fukuoka Prefecture, in the Kyushu Region. In the late 16th Century, during the Sengoku Period, two great warlords got the power in the northern Kyushu Region. One of them was the Otomo Clan in the Bungo Province, in the east of Chikugo Province. The other was the Ryuzoji Clan in the Hizen Provence, in the west of Chikugo Province. As a result, Chikugo Province was scrambled by the two warlords. During that period, a fortress, called Sasahara Castle, was built in the same place as the later Kurume Castle. The lords of the castle changed quite often because of the context.

The range of Chikugo Province and the location of the castle

Hidekane Mori and Arima Clan complete Castle

During the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, Hidekane Mori was promoted as the lord of the castle in 1587. He renovated the castle, which was renamed Kurume Castle. However, he was fired after losing the battle of Sekigahara in 1600. Instead, the Tanaka Clan was transferred from Okazaki Castle to Yanagawa Castle in the Chikugo Province. Kurume Castle became a branch of Yanagawa Castle and was eventually abandoned in 1615 due to the Law of One Castle per Province by the Tokugawa Shogunate. The castle was revived in 1621 by the Arima Clan, the lord of the Kurume Domain, after the Tanaka Clan was also fired because they had no successors. The Arima Clan completed Kurume Castle and governed the domain until the end of the Edo Period.

The portrait of Hidekane Mori, owned by Gensaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Kurume Castle was located beside the Chikugo River flowing from the north to the west of the castle. The eastern side of the castle was surrounded by tripled water moats tripled such as the Chikuzen-bori Moat. The castle town was built in the south of the castle. Four enclosures divided by water moats; the Outer, Third, Second, Main Enclosures were built in a line next to the castle town towards the north. If enemies wanted to capture the castle, they had to first attack the castle town one enclosure at a time. Only the Main Enclosure was made with high stone walls while the others were made with soil. The Main Enclosure was on a hill at in the northernmost part of the castle and had the Main Hall and seven turrets to protect it. These turrets all had three stories and were connected by two-story row-style turrets, called Tamon-Yagura, which looked very spectacular.

The illustration of Kurume Castle, exhibited by the National Diet Library of Japan, adding my own comments

Shinto affects Domain and Castle

The governance of the Kurume Domain was generally stable in the peaceful time of the Edo Period. Shinto, one of the major religions in Japan, spread during this period. One of its main doctrines was to respect the Emperor, which led to the movement for imperialism and exclusionism. The movement eventually resulted in the one against the Tokugawa Shogunate at the end of the period. Many Shinto believers lived in Kurume, and communicated with others in other areas. For example, Hikokuro Takayama, who was a famous loyal supporter of the Emperor, visited Kurume three times and died there in 1793. Maki Izumi, who was the priest of the Kurume Suitengu Shrine, joined the Kinmon Incident in Kyoto in 1864.

The statue of Hikokuro Takayama in Kyoto (taken by あじのすけ from photoAC)

However, the Kurume Domain didn’t play a major role in the Meiji Restoration during which the New Government defeated the shogunate. This is because the domain had an internal conflict between its supporters. The domain even had complains about the New Government changing its policy to open the country. The government punished the lord of the domain and occupied Kurume Castle in 1871, which was the last time the castle was occupied.

The old photo of Kurume Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Kurume Castle Part2”