11.Nihonmatsu Castle Part1

An important castle that many lords wanted to rule

Location and History

After Nihonmatsu Clan built, Date and other Clans owned it.

Nihonmatsu Castle was a castle with a long history which was located in what is now Nihonmatsu City in Fukushima Prefecture. The castle was built along the Oshu Road, an important route in Tohoku Region, and also connected to other important inland areas such as Aizu District. When the Ashikaga Shogunate was established in the first 14th Century, the shogunate sent their relative Hatakeyama Clan to the Tohoku Region to govern the region. The clan settled in the region and built Nihonmatsu Castle in the first 15th Century. It started as a simple mountain castle but later on transformed to another type of castle.

The location of the castle

The clan later called themselves the Nihonmatsu Clan which governed the castle and the area around for a long time. In the late 16th Century during the Sengoku Period, one of the greatest warlord, Masamune Date attacked Nihonmatsu Castle and the Nihonmatsu Clan finally surrendered in 1586. Since then, the castle became a branch castle of Wakamatsu Castle in Aizu District, which was the Date Clan’s home base. The lords of Wakamatsu Castle were changed to the Gamo, Uesugi, and Kato Clans, They also improved Nihonmatsu Castle by building stone walls.

伊達政宗像、仙台市博物館蔵(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Wakamatsu Castle

Niwa Clan mostly Governed Castle in Edo Period

In 1643 during the Edo Period, The Niwa Clan was transferred to the lord of the castle as the government building of the Nihonmatsu Domain by the Tokugawa Shogunate. The clan renovated the castle as well. They built the stone wall base for the Main Tower on the top of the mountain, but it is unknown if the tower was built at all. They also built the Main Hall for the lord with many other buildings for governing at the foot of the mountain. They also improved the defense system of the castle. The Oshu Road was moved beyond a hill from near the castle and visitors from the road had to pass through the Main Gate on the hill. The area around the castle called Kakunai or the Inner Compounds was protected by five gates including the Main Gate. The Niwa Clan peacefully governed the castle until the end of the Edo Period.

The portrait of Mitsushige Niwa, the founder of the Nihonmatsu Domain, owned by Dairinji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Part of the illustration of Nihonmatsu Castle in Mutsu Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

Castle falls in one day in Boshin war

However, the castle got involved in the Boshin war in 1868 during the Meiji Restoration. The New Government Army attacked the Nihonmatsu Domain which still supported the Tokugawa Shogunate. Many of the warriors of the domain were sent to Shirakawa-Komine Castle, located in the south of Nihonmatsu Castle, to reinforce the allies at the moment. They had to protect the castle with only a few defenders including the drafted child soldiers between the age of 12 and 17. They were confused by the sudden attack and the castle was captured in just one day. Some warriors such as senior vassals of the domain committed suicide while most of the castle building being burned down. Many of the child soldiers were also killed, and they have been called Nihonmatsu Shonentai, symbolizing the tragedy of the war.

Shirakawa-Komine Castle
Nihonmatsu Castle and the statues of the Nihonmatsu child soldiers

To be continued in “Nihonmatus Castle Part2”

11.二本松城 その1

多くの大名が欲しがった重要な城

立地と歴史

二本松氏が築城後、伊達氏などが所有

二本松城は現在の福島県二本松市にあった長い歴史を持つ城です。この城は東北地方の重要な街道であった奥州街道沿いにあり、会津郡など他の重要な内陸部の地域にも接続していました。14世紀初頭に足利幕府が設立されたとき、幕府は親族の畠山氏を東北地方にその地の支配のために派遣しました。畠山氏はそこに定着し、15世紀初頭に二本松城を築きました。最初は単純な山城でしたが、後に変化をとげていきます。

城の位置

彼らはのちに二本松氏と名乗るようになり、城とその周辺の地域を長い間支配しました。戦国時代の16世紀後半、有力な戦国大名の一人であった伊達政宗が二本松城を攻撃し、1586年に二本松氏はついに降伏しました。それ以来この城は、伊達氏の本拠地であった会津郡の若松城の支城となりました。若松城の城主は、蒲生氏、上杉氏、加藤氏と変わっていきましたが、二本松城も石垣が築かれるなど改修されました。

伊達政宗像、仙台市博物館蔵(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
若松城

江戸時代は概ね丹羽氏が統治

江戸時代の1643年、丹羽氏が徳川幕府によりこの城に移され、城は二本松藩の藩庁として使われました。丹羽氏は併せて城の大改修を行います。山の頂上に天守台石垣が築かれましたが、実際に天守が築かれたかどうかは全く分かっていません。山麓には城主のための御殿も築かれました。また、城の防衛システムも整備されました。奥州街道が城の近くから丘を越えた向こう側に移されました。街道から城に行くには、丘にある大手門を通らなければなりませんでした。城の周辺地は郭内と呼ばれ、大手門を含む5つの門によって守られていました。丹羽氏は江戸時代末期まで平和裏の内に城を治めます。

初代二本松藩藩主、丹羽光重肖像画、大隣寺蔵(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
奥州二本松城之絵図部分、江戸時代(出展:国立公文書館)

戊辰戦争で一日で落城

ところが、明治維新が起こった1868年、この城は戊辰戦争に巻き込まれました。新政府軍がまだ徳川幕府を支持していた二本松藩を攻撃したのです。そのとき藩の多くの武士は、二本松城の南にあった白河小峰城に、味方に加勢するために派遣されていました。そのため、12歳から17歳の少年兵を含む数少ない守備兵で城を守らざるをえませんでした。そして、突然の攻撃による混乱の中、 城はわずか1日で落城しました。藩の重臣など何名もの武士は自刃し、ほとんどの城の建物は焼け落ちました。少年兵の多くも殺され、この悲劇の戦いを象徴する二本松少年兵として語り継がれています。

白河小峰城
二本松城と二本松少年隊の銅像

「二本松城その2」に続きます。

130.Takashima Castle Part1

A castle once at lakeside

Location and History

Suwa Area and Suwa Clan with Long History

Suwa Area of Nagano Prefecture is famous for its tourist spots like Suwa Lake and Suwa-taisha Shrine which are related to Takashima Castle. The shrine is said to have originated from a god in the oldest remaining history book called Kojiki. The god was also supposed to be the origin of the Suwa Clan that had been the lord of Suwa District of Shinano Province (same as now Suwa Area) and “Ohori” or the highest rank of the saints in Shinto at the shrine until the first 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. They still lived in other mountain castles.

The aerial photo around Suwa Lake

Suwa-taisha Shrine (licensed by Saigen Jiro via Wikimedia Commons)

Invasion by Shingen Takeda

Shingen Takeda, one of the greatest warlords of Kai Province next to Shinano Province, aimed to invade the province. He defeated the Suwa Clan in 1542 and governed Suwa District. The Takeda Clan was also defeated by Nobunaga Oda in 1582. However, there was a confusion in the district when Nobunaga was killed in the same year. People in the district invited one of the Suwa Clan’s relatives who remained as Ohori at Suwa-taisha Shrine as their new lord, Yoritada Suwa.

The ranges of Shinano Province and Suwa District (the highlighted part)

The portrait of Shingen Takeda, owned by Jimyo-in Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Takayoshi Hineno built Takashima Castle

When Hideyoshi Toyotomi gained the power at the end of the 16th Century, he sent his retainer, Takayoshi Hineno to Suwa District. Yoritada Suwa was regretfully transferred to another province however. Takayoshi built a new castle alongside Suwa Lake called Takashima Castle bringing advanced techniques for that time from western Japan. The castle had four enclosures in a line facing the lake. Only one route was accessible to the enclosure at the edge of the castle. That means the castle could be very defensive.

The layout of Takashima Castle (licensed by Fraxinus2 via Wikimedia Commons)

The Main Enclosure was surrounded by stone walls which must have been very difficult to build them on the lakeside. They were actually built on wooden rafts in order to be stable even on the soft ground. The Main Enclosure also had the three-story Main Tower which was rare for eastern Japan at that time. The tower had a wood strip roofing different from other castles which usually used roof tiles. This is because the wooden tiles made the weight of the tower lighter on the soft ground and were more durable against the cold climate of the area.

The Main Enclosure surrounded by the stone walls
The old photo of the original Main Tower, exhibited by Suwa Takashima Castle

Suwa Clan revived and maintained Castle

In 1601 after the Tokugawa Shogunate gained the power instead of the Toyotomi Clan, the Suwa Clan came back to Suwa District. They supported the Shogunate very well in the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600. Yoritada Suwa’s son, Yorimizu became the lord of Takashima Domain and lived in Takashima Castle. In the peaceful time during the Edo Period, a view of the castle with Suwa Lake became a popular attraction in the area, called “the floating castle of Suwa”. Some Ukiyo-e artists such as Hokusai Katsushika drew paintings of the scenery for their Ukiyo-e or woodblock prints. On the other hand, the reclamation of Suwa Lake was done to make more farms and to prevent floods through the Edo Period. Takashima Castle was moving away far from the lake.

The Suwa Clan’s family crest, Suwa Kajinoha or Paper mulberry leaves of Suwa (licensed by Mukai via Wikimedia Commons)
”Suwa Lake in Shinano Province” from the series “Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji” attributed to Hokusai Katsushika in the Edo Period (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Takashima Castle Part2”