37.Ichijodani Castle Part1

The castle started and ended with the Asakura Clan.

Location and History

Integration of Castle and Castle Town

Ichijodani Castle was located in Echizen Province (now Fukui Prefecture) which the Asakura Clan governed during the Sengoku Period. People usually consider this castle as a fortified city the Asakura Clan built. The city was integrated with a castle and castle town parts. Because of that, people at that time called the castle, just “Ichijodani”. People in the present time call it the Ichijodani Aasakura Clan Ruins.

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Ichijodani Castle(Ichijodani Aasakura Clan Ruins)
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The location of the castle

The Asakura Clan originally served the Shiba Clan, the family of the governor of Echizen Provence. Takakage Asakura was distinguished in the Onin War in Kyoto in the late 15th Century to support the Ashikaga Shogunate. As a result, the Shogunate assigned him the governor of Echizen Provence instead of the Shiba Clan. After that, the Asakura Clan governed the province over five generations for about 100 years. The clan chose a long narrow valley called Ichijodani as their home base, not the flat area called Fuchu which the Shiba Clan lived. The reason for the Aasakura Clan’s choice is thought that the clan had to continue fighting with the Shiba Clan and others like the Ikkoshu Sect.

The portrait of Takakage Asakura, owned by Shingetsuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

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Ichijodani Castle(Ichijodani Aasakura Clan Ruins)
Leaflet|国土地理院
The relief map around the castle

The valley was about 3km long from the north to the south, and about 500m wide. It was protected by several mountain castles on the mountains in the eastern and western side of the valley. “Ichijo-dani Castle” was one such castle but provided a limited amount of protection. Both edges of the valley also had fortress entrances built using earthen walls and water moats called the Inbound Fortress Entrance and Outbound Fortress Entrance. The area between the entrances, where Ichijo-dani River flowed, was called the Inside of the Entrances. The castle town was built along the narrow area, including the Asakura Clan Hall, the warriors’ houses, the merchants and craftsmen area, and temples.

The entrance to “Ichijo-dani Castle” as a mountain castle
The Inbound Fortress Entrance
The Outbound Fortress Entrance
The miniature model of the castle town, exhibited by the Restored Town area

One of Largest City in Sengoku Period

Ichijodani greatly prospered. Echizen Province was basically wealthy and the Asakura Clan earned lots of profits from trading by ships. The clan also united with their relatives and retainers to prevent enemies, like the Ikkoshu Sect, from invading their territory. These made the people in Ichijodani rich. The hall of the clan was very similar to that of the shogun’s deputy in Kyoto and had a gorgeous Japanese garden. The clan accommodated many nobles, high priests, and intellectuals from Kyoto, which was devastated after the Onin War. Warriors played Japanese chess inside their houses and priests enjoyed tea ceremonies. Trading and production were actively done in the town. The population of Ichijo-dani was said to reach about 10,000. The city became one of the largest cities in Japan, sometimes called a Little Kyoto.

The miniature model of the Asakura Clan Hall, from the signboard at the site
The gate of the Asakura Clan Hall Ruins

Destroyed by Nobunaga Oda

In 1567, Yoshiaki Ashikaga, who would be the last shogun of the Ashikaga Shogunate, visited Yoshikage Asakura, the last lord of the clan, in Ichijodani. Yoshiaki asked Yoshikage to take Yoshiaki to Kyoto and defeat his enemies. Yoshikage rejected it, so Yoshiaki left Ichijodani and visited Nobunaga Oda in Owari Province (now part of Aichi Pref.). Nobunaga went to Kyoto with Yoshiaki who became the shogun in 1568. They ordered Yoshikage to go to Kyoto and serve them. Yoshikage rejected it again and finally became an enemy of the shogun in 1570. Nobunaga and Yoshikage fought against each other for three years. The unity of the Asakura Clan collapsed after the long battle. Yoshikage had to escape from Ichijo-dani and was defeated in the end. Nobunaga’s soldiers attacked Ichijodani without its master. The city burned for three days and ended its history in 1573. The castle was destroyed.

The seated statue of Yoshiaki Ashikaga, owned by Tojiin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Yoshikage Asakura, owned by Shingetsuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Ichijodani Castle Part2”

37.一乗谷城 その1

朝倉氏と盛衰をともにした城

立地と歴史

城と城下町の統合体

一乗谷城は、越前国(現在の福井県)にあり、戦国時代の期間、朝倉氏が支配していました。通常はこの城は、朝倉氏が築いた要塞都市とされています。この都市は、城の部分と城下町の部分が統合されていたのです。そのため、当時の人たちはこれを単に「一乗谷」と呼んでいました。現代は「一乗谷朝倉氏遺跡」と呼ばれています。

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一乗谷城(一乗谷朝倉氏遺跡)
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
城の位置

朝倉氏はもともと越前国の守護の家柄であった斯波氏に仕えていました。朝倉孝景は、15世紀後半に京都で起きた応仁の乱で足利幕府を支えて活躍しました(当初は山名宗全方の西軍に属していましたが、将軍足利義政と細川勝元方の東軍に寝返りました)。その結果幕府は孝景を、斯波氏の代わりに越前国の守護に任じました。その後、朝倉氏は5世代約100年に渡って越前国を支配しました。朝倉氏は、本拠地として一乗谷と呼ばれた細長い谷を選びました。朝倉氏がこの谷を選んだ理由は、斯波氏や一向宗などの他の支族との戦いが続いていたからと考えられています。

朝倉孝景肖像画、心月寺蔵  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

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一乗谷城(一乗谷朝倉氏遺跡)
Leaflet|国土地理院
城周辺の起伏地図

この谷は、南北約3kmの長さと、約500mの幅がありました。また、谷の東西両側の山の上にある山城群により守られていました。例えば「(狭義の)一乗谷城」は、それらの山城の一つであり、特有の役割がありました(戦いが起こった場合の詰めの城であったとされています)。谷の両端には土塁と水堀を用いた城門があり、上城戸(かみきど)と下城戸(しもきど)と呼ばれました。一乗谷川が流れていた両城戸の間は、城戸の内(きどのうち)と呼ばれていました。城下町はこの狭い地域に沿って建設され、朝倉氏館、武家屋敷、商人や職人の町、寺社の町が含まれていました。

山城としての一乗谷城への入口
上城戸
下城戸
城下町の模型(「復原町並地区」で展示)

戦国時代有数の大都市

一乗谷は大いに繁栄しました。越前国はもともと豊かであった上に、朝倉氏は海運により大きな利益を得ていました。そして、朝倉氏は一族と家臣が団結し、一向宗といった敵からの攻撃を退けることができていました。これらにより、一乗谷の人たちは裕福になったのです。朝倉氏の館は、京都にあった管領の館にとても似通っており、そこには豪華な日本庭園がありました。そして、応仁の乱により荒廃した京都から多くの貴族、高僧、知識人たちを受け入れたのです。武士たちは屋敷の中で将棋を指し、僧たちは茶会を楽しんでいました。交易や生産がこの町の中で、盛んに行われていました。一乗谷の人口は、1万人に達したと言われています。この町は日本で有数の大都市となり、しばしば小京都とも呼ばれました。

朝倉氏館の模型(現地説明板より)
朝倉氏館跡の門

織田信長に滅ぼされる

1567年、後に足利幕府の最後の将軍となる足利義昭が、朝倉氏の最後の当主となった朝倉義景に会いに、一乗谷にやってきました。義昭は義景に対し、ともに上洛して敵を倒すよう要請しました。義景はそれを断り、義昭は一乗谷を去り、尾張国(現在の愛知県の一部)の織田信長のところに行きます。信長は、1568年に義昭とともに上洛し、義昭は将軍となりました。1570年、彼らは義景に対し、上洛して仕えるよう命じました。義景は再び断り、ついに将軍の敵となってしまいました。信長と義景は、三年に渡り戦いました(朝倉討伐、姉川の戦いなど)。その長い戦いの間に朝倉氏と家臣団の結束は崩れていきました。義景は一乗谷から撤退せざるを得なくなり、ついには倒されてしまいます(重臣の朝倉景鏡(かげあきら)に裏切られ自刃しました)。信長軍は、主人のいなくなった一乗谷に襲い掛かりました。この町は三日間にわたり燃え続けます。城は破壊され、その歴史を終えました。1573年のことでした。

足利義昭坐像、等持院霊光殿蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
朝倉義景肖像画、心月寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
織田信長肖像画、狩野宗秀作、長興寺蔵、16世紀後半 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

「一乗谷城その2」に続きます。

138.Echizen-Ohno Castle Part3

Will you be able to see the castle in the sky?

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, all the buildings of Echizen-Ohno Castle were demolished. The mountain of the castle was turned into Kameyama Park. After World War II, some castle buildings including Tenshu were rebuilt.

The rebuilt Main Tower on the stone walls at Kameyama Park

Ohno City, which now owns the castle, promotes it as “Castle in the Sky” like Takeda Castle. The meaning of Castle in the Sky is when clouds spread below the mountain, the castle on the mountain looks like its floating in the sky. If this happens while you are at Echizen-Ohno Castle, you can take a photo of the castle in the sky from Inuyama Mountain where you can see the whole view of the castle. The city also says this situation is most likely to occur in October and November. However, according to the records, the chance to see the castle in the sky happens about 10 days per a year.

The “Castle in the Sky” can be seen at Echizen-Ohno Castle (licensed by Keisuke MAEDA via Wikimedia Commons)
The “Castle in the Sky” can be seen at Takeda Castle (licensed by abok via Wikimedia Commons)

My Impression

I visited Echizen-Ohno Castle to see the castle in the sky on a day in November. The castle was open from early in the morning during the month to make it possible for visitors to see if the castle in the sky situation happens.

The entrance of the Southern Route in the early morning

When I looked up from the top floor of the Tenshu building, the sky around the castle was very clear. Inuyama Mountain, from which you could see the castle in the sky, was rather cloudy. I realized that staying just one night is not enough. Even if the weather conditions for the castle in the sky are ideal, you cannot always see it. You may need to spend several days to see it.

The sky around the castle was very clear
Inuyama Mountain was rather cloudy

If you stay for only one night in the town, you can at least take a beautiful photo of the illuminated Echizen-Ohno Castle.

The illuminated Echizen-Ohno Castle

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car:
It is about 30 minutes away from Fukui IC on Hokuriku Expressway.
There is a parking lot near the entrance of the Southern Route to the castle.
By public transportation, it takes about 40 minutes walking from JR Echizen-Ohno Station.
To get to Echizen-Ohno Station from Tokyo: Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen super express, transfer to the limited express on the Hokuriku Line at Kanazawa Station, and transfer to the Kuzuryu Line at Fukui Station.
From Osaka: Take the Thunderbird limited express and transfer to the Kuzuryu Line at Fukui Station.

Links and References

Echizen Ohno Castle Official Site

That’s all. Thank you.
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